MinionOfCthulhu posted:

Manifest, those Spirit Hosts are awesome. I like the Cursed Company models. And the little old-school skink.
How'd you do the color?

stabbington posted:

Keep your tools properly lubricated, or you will lose your loving mind.

PaintVagrant posted:

That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky.

I wonder if some sort of really thin tool-grade oil might work, I know almost nothing about that kind of stuff though

Danger - Octopus! posted:

SERIOUS TIP for people looking for lamps/bulbs:

fabric/sewing stores will sell this kind of thing for LADIES who like to sew and embroider and do all that kind of thing. I know these shops are really scary to nerds but they will totally be able to sell you really good daylight/magnifying/superfly lamps and bulbs to put in the aforementioned lamps.

chelsea clinton posted:

You're pretty decent at this, you know. Maybe you should do it for a living or at least to bring in some cash on the side.

Fast_Food_Knight posted:

Hell Diver posted:

Chenghiz posted:

Basically you take a sponge (I used the foam you get in warcaster blisters) get a bit of paint on it and rub it around a bit, and then dab the model, but not too much or you get weathering in dumb places like I did.

Aetilus posted:

is there anything worse than amateur-painted holiday-themed miniatures?

PaintVagrant posted:

Turning warhamer ogres into crazy poo poo is a warham tradition, fa la la la la, la la la la

PaintVagrant posted:

Thats a pretty cool site.

crime fighting hog posted:

"it's for cleaning an airbrush, officer. honest"

PaintVagrant posted:

Another question for you guys: what thicknesses of plasticard do you typically use when building/converting?

Phyresis posted:

Aetilus posted:

need a gel super glue recommendation.

I really like the control and quick drying of loctite but the bottles are too small and the nozzles fill with dried glue and need to get reamed by a sewing needle every couple uses and it is getting annoying.

Are there any Gel super glues that come in large quantity bottles without the clogging issues?

Sole.Sushi posted:

Nah, you're correct. Your primer affects your colors in the end, especially if your paint is translucent enough. Sometimes black is better, sometimes white gray is better (because white has terrible coverage). Sometimes combining the two helps, sometimes it doesn't.

To sum it up: primer blows, and if we could do without it, we all would right now without a second thought.

Mt. ORourke posted:

Cross-posting from the oath thread:







Any ideas for how to make the talons pop a bit more? I did an edge highlight with Enchanted blue but it's very close to the foundation blue beneath and doesn't show too well. Other comments welcome too!

Paradigm Pirate posted:

No idea how pricing for Proxxon is in North America but I'm going to recommend the Proxxon Micromot 50.

MasterSlowPoke posted:

Why magnetize a model to its base?

Ashcans posted:

Superglue doesn't take days to cure, so if it falls off it just means it wasn't glued well to begin with. Make sure the surfaces fit together properly, and consider roughing them up with a file or sandpaper. Pinning will basically solve this issue, but if you don't want to do that for every joint (and who does) you can also put a little bit of greenstuff between the two parts. As in, apply your glue, drop a small bit of GS on one side, and press the pieces together.

theironjef posted:

I'm just happy to have found this picture, apparently some organizer took it at a tournament I was at recently, I found it floating around online. Way better shot than I can take.

Bachtere posted:

Nothing too fancy. I just like painting dots.

The base is from Scibor btw. They have some good poo poo.

The Dark Project posted:

Problem is I hate the GW new style ones even more. Never liked the "S" style ones.

Another option is to say "gently caress zombie dragon" and just get a regular dragon for the Vampire to fly instead, saying that since he's a pimp Blood Dragon Vamp, second best just does not do.

Also, after what I have done to this model, I very much doubt I would get enough cash to buy 1 VC zombie dragon for it on ebay. I would be really loving suprised.

Inverse Icarus posted:

Here's a dumb question I should have asked before basing previous models.

Assuming you guys use sealer or whatever to keep the paint from chipping/scratching, do you do that before or after you add grass/whatever? I did it after on my first batch, and now I'm thinking the sealer might have helped keep the rocky sand stuff I'm using together better.

Sole.Sushi posted:

It's not bad: a bit novice (as in simple, not as in "haha loser"), but that's never a bad thing. We all started there, and we can only hope to get better. I will say that your paint might be going on a little too thick, and if you haven't already, investing in some good brushes may help with both control and paint flow. We of course recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes (found at https://www.dickblick.com for usually on-sale prices), but if you aren't comfortable using a brush quite that expensive, any non-synthetic, non "college grade" brush in the 0 and 000 sizes (or equivalent) will do you just fine.

Not a viking posted:

I like the skin a lot, please do!