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I'm looking for tips before I start painting, concerning white. I'm looking to do a pure, pearly white like so:   I've never painted anything white before, but I'm assuming that the process would be something like this... 1 - Prime grey 2 - Basecoat with a pale blue-grey 3 - Multiple thin and even layers of white 4 - Gloss varnish Is that about right? Also, any idea how this guy got the nice brushed metal effect going?
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May 15, 2011 01:08
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Fix posted:GOD Pretty much. Here's a couple more, with the Tomb Stalker. Shame about the blur on some of these.       If you've got a better shot of the Tomb Stalker, NecronSchmecron, I'd love to see it.
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May 15, 2011 02:17
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So if the Necrons are Apple, then Microsoft is the Imperium of Man, and Apple making more profits than Microsoft is the Necrons awakening to reclaim the galaxy. Or something.
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May 15, 2011 06:19
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To get back to the actual iNecron painting tips I was looking for...Rapey Joe Stalin posted:If you have an airbrush then it will probably make it a lot easier, but I would say white or gray undercoat, shading with shadow grey, then clean up with a coat or two space wolves and white mixed, then some coats of thinned white. Is there actually a purpose to the multiple coats of grey for this particular style? As far as I can tell, it's pretty much a flat white with clean black lines (finally a use for my sakura pigma pens!) and no shading, finished with a gloss varnish for extra shine. So Krylon Grey primer -> Vallejo Pale Bluegrey -> P3 Morrow White; would I gain anything from adding colors in-between?
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May 15, 2011 21:30
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crime fighting hog posted:Where'd you get the tall grass? I've been looking for some but have had no luck. Woodland Scenics Field Grass?
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May 16, 2011 00:30
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I'm looking for forward facing, open-palmed Space Marine hands like these: The top one is from the GK Power Armour and Terminator boxes with a bit of green stuff, but what about the bottom one? Are there any other similar hands?
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Jun 19, 2011 06:16
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It is! Thanks  Now I just need to actually get those bits.
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Jun 19, 2011 06:38
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TastyAvocado posted:I'm curious, how did you get that awesome gold?
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Jun 27, 2011 03:22
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Z the IVth posted:
Haro cockpit?
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Nov 3, 2011 01:42
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I detest having to go to GW but its the smell and the overbearing staff that make me promise to myself that I will never go back. I just went to the Berlin store for the first time to pickup a Chaos Lord and the staff & folks there were pretty awesome 
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Mar 24, 2012 19:14
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I think this was brought up earlier in the thread... I'm looking for a non-spray, non-gesso primer. On a painting blog I saw a recommendation for brushing on Vallejo's acylic-polyurethane primer. Yay or nay?
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Mar 31, 2012 15:45
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Refind Chaos posted:That's what I use, and I love it. There was like a 2 page discussion on it a few pages back if you want to look up some more info. Went back and found the discussion. Put my order for some, can't wait to try it!
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Mar 31, 2012 19:23
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Making the water a little more brown would give you something like this which is pretty neat.
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Apr 3, 2012 18:22
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I've got a question for goons with DIY light tents! I'm building one up, 40x40x40cm, and wondering what kind bulbs I need. I've found some 5400K/ CRI 85 bulbs, from 30W to 50W. I plan on having two or three of them but the price difference is fairly big between the smaller and larger bulbs. Would I be fine with the 30s or is that too much/too little for the size of the tent? Lights are the one that thing that all the guides out there seem to avoid talking about.
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Apr 5, 2012 15:04
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Tadhg posted:Could I get some advice on painting black as the primary color? I know that pure black works very poorly, and that dark greys are preferable. e: Here's a guide to how some Dakka dude painted his Raven Guard, including the blacks. And here's the result:  Mango Polo fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Apr 13, 2012 |
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Apr 13, 2012 16:37
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Epi Lepi posted:What model is this? The Hassassin Lasiq, from Infinity's Haqqislam army.
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Apr 17, 2012 17:33
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Z the IVth posted:I find it amusing that seemingly everyone using the same background picture(s). Granted it's a nice one!
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May 2, 2012 00:48
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Miles O'Brian posted:Is that an instagram? It is and it's mind boggling.
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May 7, 2012 21:59
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Because I want some of these guys to count as something in a 40k army... Count-as Space Wolves: Space Rats. Rat Claws and Rat Talismans and Saga of the Rat.
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May 10, 2012 20:01
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Question for people using the new GW paints: how do the golds compare with the old ones? More specifically, I'm wondering how my recipe of tin bitz/bestial brown + shining gold + devlan mud + burnished gold will carry over to the new range. From what I've seen the equivalents... are not very equivalent. Agrax Earthshade also behaves differently. I would have thought this would be fairly documented, but I can barely find anything about the gold paints 
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Jun 9, 2012 18:32
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Z the IVth posted:Went back to my old love, spaceships! I swear they are the only thing that are easy enough to paint that I can just finish them before my attention span wanders. They look right out of Homeworld 
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Jun 9, 2012 22:01
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Captain Invictus posted:I can't tell which one exactly that is on Ikea's site, mind linking it? This one plus some glass doors.
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Jun 9, 2012 22:29
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Has anyone tried the new GW glazes and had issues with it creating little shiny areas? I absolutely love Guilliman Blue, but it randomly leaves little spots and areas with a strange sheen. It's pretty annoying because the spots, even small, are really obvious even from a distance and I have no idea why they appear. It's not pooling as far as I can see and shaking the pot doesn't help.
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Jun 17, 2012 12:37
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moths posted:I haven't tried them myself, but it's possible they have a non-water base? Try washing out your brush with dishsoap and drying it completely before you use the glaze. I had recently cleaned the brush of some paint, so there was most likely still some water in it. I'll try it again later and see if a dry brush helps
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Jun 17, 2012 16:24
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Dr. Lenin posted:Also if anyone knows where a good stash of the old paint colors can be found, or the Rotting Flesh equivalent in Vallejo or Reaper, that'd be great as well. Dead Flesh for Vallejo Game Color. Pale Olive for Reaper. This chart is not always accurate, but it's a good starting point to find equivalents. e to your e: Something like this? Or maybe this?
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Jun 19, 2012 21:58
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Oh.
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Aug 6, 2012 20:38
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Honey Badger posted:So what is the legality behind recasting GW stuff for personal use (i.e. without intent to sell it)? Like can I recast a helmet I like to use on my space dudes so I don't have to buy a bunch of expensive bits on ebay, or is any recasting at all a no-go? I imagine they wouldn't be fond of people recasting entire minis and poo poo, but could I get away with doing it for a shoulderpad or something minor? I'm pretty sure they won't care one bit unless you walk into a GW store and start screaming at the employees about 90% of your models being recasts. Even then it's not like they'll drag you into a court of justice
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Sep 1, 2012 09:39
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Pigments question! I'm looking at getting some Forge World or MiG pigments for simple brushing on (wind-borne ashes effect instead of mud), but I'm not sure how the process should go. Paint -> Matt varnish -> Pigments -> Varnish again? Can I skip the first varnishing and go straight to applying the pigments to the paint? Lastly, would a spray varnish like army painter's work, or would it muddle/blow off the pigments?
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Sep 3, 2012 13:04
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HardCoil posted:Here's some stuff about pigments and varnish: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.dk/search/label/fixing Neat! Thanks
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Sep 3, 2012 19:41
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Fix posted:True or False: Vallejo Ghost Grey is the greatest paint, superior in every way to all others. Better than Menoth White?
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Sep 4, 2012 12:43
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SRM posted:It sucks since I'm honestly curious how they paint DA now. I like their paint-by-numbers system as a baseline for painting that I can build on from there. I'm sure DA are just the standard Dark Angels Green/next lightest green highlight/green wash or whatever, but I'm curious how they paint their Deathwing. I don't have an iPad so it's not like I'm gonna find that out anytime soon. Ushabti Bone. Wash the recesses Sepia. Clean up with Ushabti, edge highlight with Screaming Skull and do a final highlight with White Scar. If the How To Paint Citadel book is aimed a newer painters and is full of nice/important techniques, the iPad How to Paint Dark Vengeance is aimed at people who have almost never touched a brush before and/or are a bit retarded and won't care if the details are never explained. The Dark Angels have a pretty amusing tron-ish look to them. It's honestly bad. If you're curious about some paint schemes I can look them up and summarize them for you, for what it's worth. e: This is what I mean  Hello thar, lovely 
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Sep 15, 2012 19:25
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SRM posted:What's their technique for that green? 1. Basecoat Caliban Green 2. Wash Nuln Oil 3. Reapply Caliban Green leaving out the recesses 4. First highlight with Warpstone Glow 5. Final highlight with Moot Green
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Sep 16, 2012 11:41
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BlackIronHeart posted:They don't happen to have a Thousand Sons scheme available, do they? A buddy of mine is getting back into the hobby after last playing 3rd Ed. and he's feeling a bit overwhelmed. Nope, but tell him to wait a bit for the new codex to come out. it will be accompanied by a similar painting guide (but hopefully not of the same 'quality')
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Sep 16, 2012 12:31
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SRM posted:Thank you! I'm okay with the paint-by-numbers approach since I'm getting Dark Vengeance today and I might want to do up the Dark Angels as allies for my Valhallans. May I suggest this guide then? Just as easy, and overall I think it looks much better.
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Sep 16, 2012 17:07
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Honey Badger posted:Does anyone have any tips for weathering models with dark paint schemes? For instance, how would you go about adding battle damage to Black Templars? Dark brown paint chipping wouldn't really show up. On vehicles using silver for scrapes works, but on infantry that looks kind of weird. From The Warp has nice articles on the subject. This one and this one.
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Sep 19, 2012 22:45
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CrotchPheasant posted:For brushes, the general recommendations are Winsor & Newton Series 7, Da Vinci Maestro, or Raphael 8404. I think there's another brand from the UK named Rosemary & Co that's also highly recommended. Rosemary brushes are wonderful, especially to learn with because they are very cheap to replace plus being of good quality.
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Sep 23, 2012 15:12
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richyp posted:Next batch drying. Awesome. I'd try to give the chaos star scars a darker/burned flesh color to make them stand out though, but that's just me. It's a nice detail that doesn't really stand out when painted in normal flesh color.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:08
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CyberLord XP posted:IMO "add a little matte medium" should be right up there with "drill your barrels/clean your mold lines". Stuff is awesome. I'm curious now; how does it differ from, say, vallejo's thinning medium?
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Oct 6, 2012 13:18
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serious gaylord posted:I use GW metallics. By far the best, although I dont touch Gehennas gold. GW's metallics are pretty great (Gehenna's being the exception; what the gently caress is wrong with that paint?), but I'm now using liquid gold. And holy poo poo is it wonderful. Only disadvantage is how much of a pain it is to keep thinned on the palette. Even then, I never want to go back to other gold paints.
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Oct 29, 2012 21:35
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Anyone know if Army Painter's matt black primer matches Abaddon Black (or Vallejo's black polyurethane primer)? I'd rather not waste money on a can if it looks off The poly primer is amazing, but brushed on it's not so great on large flat areas.
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Nov 9, 2012 14:00
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