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Sand, file, or shave the whole area with a razor to smooth it out. Unless your paint is crazy thick, it'll show. e: Don't use crazy thick paint.
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Jul 2, 2010 06:26
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The right one has the potential for more vibrant color, imo. If you inked/washed and added some highlights, I think it'd beat out the one on the left. As it stands, it's hard to compare as the one of the left is finished, instead of what looks like just a basecoat on the right. As far as the shade of yellow alone, the right one pops a bit more. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jul 4, 2010 |
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Jul 4, 2010 03:58
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Red, yellow, and white. You sir, are a cool, cool catl. 
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Jul 8, 2010 11:21
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Bizarro Buddha posted:Pro tip: When you're painting a miniature and it's starting to go well for once, don't spaz out and drop it on the floor, putting a giant chip in the paint job. Also, don't drop it into the pot of glue you're using to base it. 
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Jul 13, 2010 17:24
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Aranan posted:I've dropped guys straight into my wet palette before. Don't do this, either. Last night I started dozing off while working on my oath. Not full on sleeping, but that 3 second micro-nap stage. Woke up with a start, like you do. Caused me to smear metallic paint all across the mini. 
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Jul 13, 2010 17:37
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It's usually either too dusty + windy or too cold + damp to spray prime effectively. That's why gesso is a godsend. After putting gesso on 200 models, though, I'm beginning to have fond memories of spray primer.
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Jul 14, 2010 01:45
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My first few experiences with gesso were disasterous. I used white gesso to prime two landspeeders; didn't water it down, and slathered it on kind of thick after being told "it shrinks to form a skin-tight bond!" After painting, my landspeeder looks like it has a thin candy shell. It turns out that it will gladly pool in cracks and crevasses, as well as fill/join gaps if you let it. Now I treat it almost like a wet drybrushing job, using the absolute minimum of watered down (black) gesso to get the job done. It still requires touch ups as it dries (even on plastics, if you're doing it thin enough,) but I find that the final product of a good gesso job is better than a good spray primer job. Plus, my minis don't smell like primer for weeks if I don't paint them right away. I agree, white gesso is largely crap for minis. I've heard a bunch of tricks on how to make it better, but haven't had a chance or inclination to try them out just yet.
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Jul 14, 2010 04:47
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I have absolutely no idea how to go about painting a squig. Any advice on scheme?
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Jul 14, 2010 10:00
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Is it just me, or do Vallejo metallics congeal and dry much faster than others? I've found this with their Model Color to a degree, but especially their Game Color line. Doing batch painting, and my wells are drying up into a gummy mass before I'm even halfway done with them (and it's not a ton of paint, either.) Water only gets me so far, as too much turns it from paint into runny sparkly water.
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Jul 15, 2010 09:50
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Are Citadel metallics better than their normal colors? I ran out of Vallejo goblin green, and have been forced to use a Citadel pot I had laying around. Compared to the Vallejo, the Citadel paint just doesn't thin or spread as smoothly. I went from Folk Art and Apple Barrel paint straight to Vallejo MC & GC. I haven't had much experience with Citadels beyond getting occasional use out of a Citadel starter set when I don't have the right Vallejo color and can't be bothered to run out to the store.
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Jul 15, 2010 10:12
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 I just painted 30 ork shootas with my first Citadel metallics: Mithril Silver darkened with a few drops of Vallejo Black.Oh my jesus god gently caress, it was AMAZING. The paint mixed with black evenly. It thinned down smoothly with just a couple drops of water. It didn't dry up during the two hours that I was painting. It didn't clump and turn my brush into a stiff straggly piece of poo poo if I got into the zone and forgot to rinse the brush often enough (  Vallejo!).And it painted like silk. Coverage was like liquid loving silk. I didn't know painting metallics could be this wonderful...  I didn't know!Why didn't I learn about this until *after* I painted the other 170 loving orks this month?
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Jul 15, 2010 12:41
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Bobx66 posted:Ya GW's metalics are just about the only paint I use from their line anymore. Their washes are another story. On a related note, why didn't you just buy Boltgun instead of mixing mithril? More control? The only Citadel paints I own are from a starter box a friend gave me as a present last year (now a discontinued item, I believe.) The only metallic in the set was Mithril silver, so that's all I have on hand from Citadel. And the FLGS isn't open at 2am. PaintVagrant posted:Mithril silver is the best covering metallic paint, you can thin the gently caress out of it and it still cover pretty damned well Apparently so, yeah. I've seriously never had metallic paint that covered and flowed that well before. It was *magical* 
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Jul 15, 2010 21:31
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I find that VGC behaves a lot better for me than the Citadel equivalents (metallics notwithstanding.) Smoother, thin better, flow better. Citadels feel like I'm painting with latex paint, sometimes. VMC is much more matte in the end, kind of like painting with suspended pastel pigments sometimes. I find the Vallejo dropper bottles are much easier for putting paint on a pallette than Citadel's bolter shells. I dislike scooping paint out with a stirrer or brush, I always feel like I'm wasting some paint. Droppers make it easier to measure paint when mixing/thinning with water. Also, Bolter Shells = 12ml of paint. Dropper = 17ml of paint. Vallejo is somehow a fifty cents to a dollar cheaper, depending on the store.
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Jul 15, 2010 21:55
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magnetbox posted:They are doing away with the "boltershell" bottles and moving everything toward the foundation/wash pots. Which are just a lower quality version of the boltershell design. Cheaper plastic sides, cheaper hinge. Still have to dip the brush directly into the pot, or scoop it out into a pallette.
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Jul 15, 2010 22:10
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Is that cloak part of the original model, or did you sculpt it yourself?
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Jul 16, 2010 11:53
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wickedkarma posted:Original I wish I was that good =( Only asking because it has the look of a decently greensculpted cloak.  As far as painting feedback, it's a bit hard to make out much in the way of colors on the model. You didn't have great light, but sometimes photoshop/GIMP can help brighten the picture and bring out the colors for better viewing.
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Jul 16, 2010 12:03
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enri posted:really cool scanned old stuff Those articles are awesome; I remember reading similar stuff in WD as a kid. Looking at these makes me nostalgic. Also, check out the pics of the authors at the ends of some of the articles. Adrian Wild. 
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Jul 18, 2010 22:06
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Each layer of paint that you put on the model should be thin enough that the previous coat affects the brightness/darkness of the fresh layer. So, a black undercoat followed by a green layer would look different than a white undercoat followed by a green layer. Keeping this in mind, it's easy to start producing simple shadow effects when combined with lighter-colored highlights in the higher regions.
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Jul 19, 2010 04:07
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Quick question about bases: do people usually put ballast/flocking on the clear plastic flight bases, or are they left as clear plastic? Most bases I've seen are clear, but I chalk that up to the painter also being too lazy to finish (or sometimes start) painting their models. Will they look unfinished without a proper basing, or is the clear plastic the better way to go?
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Jul 27, 2010 05:52
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uXs posted:Yeah, that's what I was doing. The poster on BGG said he used red ink, and washes are supposed to be the next version of inks, so that's what I used. uXs posted:Is it better to use a totally flat area for mixing, or can you use something with recessed areas? I have two plastic palettes with fairly shallow holes in them. If paint needs the consistency of milk I guess it would just run all over on a completely flat palette? These are awesome. (Most stores carry them, but PV pimping is always good.) The wells help keep the paint contained, and decently wet while working over time. It helps with thinning, too, as I can simply pull some of the paint up the side of the well to see how quickly or how much of it runs back down into the well. Cleanup is easy, too, as dried paint peels or scrapes right off. If I've already poured some paint and need to keep it in the wells for a while, I usually put some plastic film (baggie, cellophane, whatever) over the top of the well. A tiny bit of paint around the rim of the well will seal hold the plastic in place and work like a little airtight paint pot (and peel right off when you're ready to return.)
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Jul 30, 2010 08:53
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uXs posted:Yeah. It's black primer, then drybrush with chainmail, and then red ink. Maybe he's getting a lot of chainmail on there and coloring that. Interesting technique. I'm curious to see what the desired end result looks like. As for the palettes, the ones I use are a hard plastic with a smooth, glossy finish; nothing at all for the paint to adhere to. Large areas of dried paint peel right off; smaller sections need to be scratched/scraped a little with your fingernail, but it's still no problem. If you wanted to get fancy, the scratchy side of a sponge would be all you need to completely clean it up.
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Jul 30, 2010 09:12
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I apparently am coming into possession of several WN Series 7 brushes (the Oath Thread is awesome!  ) Having never owned "nice" brushes before, I'd like to do everything I can to ensure a long and productive life for these little guys.My general brush care while painting is to use thinned paint, and rinse every so often to keep things from clumping on the brush. Once done I rinse the brushes in water while swishing the bristles on my hand to make sure the paint is gone. On stubborn clumps, or when cleaning drybrushes, I'll use a drop of dishsoap in my hand to swirl the bristles in to help remove the dried paint clumps. My flat brushes for drybrushing still curl up quickly and become gnarled masses of suck, and my pointed brushes still get curly on the end and eventually stop holding a point (becoming tiny stipple tips, almost.) Am I doing anthing incorrectly? Am I not doing something that I should be doing?
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Aug 3, 2010 22:45
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Vomit marines! I've been wanting to make one, but I think yours is clearly better. edit: Go BA. Gotta catch up with the times.  Click here for the full 1050x1124 image.  Tadhg fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Aug 5, 2010 |
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Aug 5, 2010 00:07
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You know what paintbrushes love? They love being used to wetbrush fifty unsealed sand bases in one go. Yes, they do. Absolutely loving love it. I should not be allowed to own nice paintbrushes ever...  ***I buy flat brushes for this kind of work for $1 each. Please do not call Brush Protective Services on me.
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Aug 5, 2010 10:02
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BRB, p3. posted:BASES I used to think it was "same size as original or larger," but I recently had somebody criticize my two nobz that were put on larger bases. Looked it up, there it is. The concern is that in assault the model can be in contact with more opponents than normal, possibly gaining an advantage. The reverse of this is that somebody like Eldrad who you don't want in close combat will be able to be contacted by more models than normal. In reality, it's not going to make much of a difference either way except in very spergy close-combat maneuvering. There's one specific SW character that gets extra attacks for every model that's in base contact with him, and his errata/FAQ states that you can't use a larger base for him to try and take extra advantage of that ability. Special models like an HQ (especially named character like Eldrad) I personally have no problem seeing moved up to a 40mm base. It makes them stand out on the table a bit more, and some HQs already have upsized bases like that (every Ork HQ, for example, even if they only have Nob stats.) If anybody gives you crap about using a 40mm base, counter with the fact that you're putting yourself at a disadvantage by making Eldrad easier to hit with templates and easier to single out in assualt. edit: Wow, that's a lot of ham-talk, sorry. I should really add a  to that or something...
Tadhg fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Aug 5, 2010 |
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Aug 5, 2010 23:02
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Actually, Eldrad is pretty beastly in close combat. My bad, then. I've only ever played against him with Orks. Since he's not a Space Wolf close-combat monster, I've never really noticed him much once I'm able to close and assault. (Charge with a mob, remove some models because the other guy always hits first, roll a fuckton of dice, roll some power klaw dice, and then consolidate d6") edit: a 40mm base still would have little to no impact on the course of most games. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Aug 6, 2010 00:09
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Reaper is really the only company that caters to the "I need a model to look like my character with features A, B, and C," market. You could always try converting with bits of kit from various Warhammer Fantasy boxes, but females are a little trickier than males in that regard.
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Aug 6, 2010 11:31
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Depending on how futuristic you're looking to go, these are pretty neat: Click here for the full 809x555 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image. http://www.infinitythegame.com/infinity_ENG/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=263:hassassin-lasiqs&catid=42:haqqislam&Itemid=151
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Aug 7, 2010 21:47
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Korwen posted:Batch painting?   Also, yeah- laying out your process in terms of steps and dividing up the batch into mentally/physically managable groups. There's also something to be said for sheer willpower. For the 200 orks in my July Oath I had a process of: assemble, prime, glue sand, undercoat sand and body brown, paint skin, paint pants, paint vest/shirt, paint leather straps and accessories, paint metallics (weapons as well as belt buckles), touch up errors, wash skin, wash clothing, wash metallics (2 washes here), highlight skin, highlight clothing, highlight metallics, drybrush sand bases (4 layer process), touch up boots, seal. Aside from the straps/accessories step (which took three days of nonstop work), I did at least one step in the process for all 200 orks per night of painting. To keep myself from going totally insane, I divided the orks up into groups of 25 that I used as milestones after which I'd stretc, give attention to my S.O. and cats, check the forums, etc. Every 100 orks was time for a major break, usually a meal (and to step outside and see the sky for a short while.) My biggest concern is keeping myself on task, and not getting bored with repetitive painting. The shorter milestones help keep a constant finish line ahead of me. The scotch helps keep me calmer and less prone to get anxious to do other things. The prog rock helps keep my mind busy, and sounds awesome (if it's not your thing, other long bits of audio help. Audio books, classical music, talk radio, etc. So long as it's long enough to get lost in.) Just push on through the project, though, and you'll eventually be done. It's a nice feeling to sit back and look upon your rows of painted plastic men.
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Aug 9, 2010 09:18
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I use a round brush, size 0 for most of my basecoating. It's an Artcolor bulk-pack brush that I bought years ago. It doesn't come to a fine tip anymore, but that's what makes it useful- I have no qualms about jamming it into crevices to basecoat all the hard to reach areas. It's been my go-to brush for non-detail, non-drybrushing work for the past year (400+ models) and is still going strong. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. In general, you just want something that will give you enough of a point that you can be accurate and not hit unintended areas, will hold enough paint to let you work, and is durable enough to stand up as your workhorse brush. I have a feeling this brush won't be around too much longer, and I'm eyeing my new W&N size 1 round brush as its successor. (Thanks, Fix! ) I'll still be using this one or something similar for crevice work, though.
Tadhg fucked around with this message at 11:14 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 09:48
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enri posted:Does anyone else have the "I want a completely painted army BUT if I spend that much time trying to make it look good then I'll never have a completely painted army" dilemma? I've begun to compromise in recent years (whereas before I would never be happy with less than my own level of 'perfect') and gone for "eh gently caress it, as long as they've got paint on them and it all looks vaguely coherent" but I hate myself for it and want to paint stuff that looks pure awesome and have an army of models painted to pure awesome standards I'm currently collecting/painting three horde armies (Orks, Tyranids, and Guard), and learned to come to a compromise: Troops- gently caress 'em, there's a million of them and they're going to get dinged up being played with and moved the most. Tabletop quality for most of them (basecoat, details picked out, wash, maybe some highlights.) Occasional troops will get pulled for cool things like a nicer base or special painting attention, but that's more to let myself try out a new painting technique on something that it's ok to screw up. Special things like sergeant-type models, cool custom posed guys, special upgrades, etc. get the next level of painting. Blending, highlights, cool bases etc. Centerpiece models/units like HQ get my A+ effort in their painting. I'll spend forever trying to get them done just right. I'm really getting into basing thanks to the Oath thread, so I'm probably going to start doing mini-diorama bases for these sorts of models as well.
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Aug 11, 2010 10:24
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I kind of want to get an airbrush just so I can basecoat my second unit of Clanrats in, you know, a single day. I hear you. I would have so many more free-time hours if I had an airbrush. 
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Aug 12, 2010 06:22
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:They're just so fiddly! Last-version Clanrats are awful. I don't play skaven; just three horde armies in 40k and another army that likes to have a fuckton of big metal boxes. I also like to batch-paint in unhealthy numbers. An airbrush would be magical.
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Aug 12, 2010 07:27
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I would totally paint a chapter of 1000 marines if I had the money to blow on something so frivolous. As it stands, I have almost one standard company, and half a company of scouts. I'm considering stripping their paint and redoing them now that I've become a much better painter. 
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Aug 13, 2010 04:20
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MasterSlowPoke posted:"I don't prime, because mom won't let me. Also, give me money for lovely paintjobs so that I can move out of my parents' basement!"
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Aug 19, 2010 02:21
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Fyrbrand posted:Attn: NecronSchmecron That's awesome; what's your process for the flames? Also, I like the power axe on the AoBR sergeant. Is that a stock axe just glued on there, or was it made from bits?
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Aug 21, 2010 03:12
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Klungar posted:Just bought my second mini, God help me... The next thing you know, you're buying minis secondhand to keep your habit going strong. Before you know it, you're making little dioramas or making models you'll never use, but just want to paint. You'll find yourself unable to stop, going for the rush of completing a big project again and again, until you're just a hollow shell of a man. I love this hobby. 
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Aug 25, 2010 21:47
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 Provided that you don't use some kind of super-enamel, there's no paint job that this won't erase. Knowing that in the worst case, I'd just have to scrub with a toothbrush and do it over again (and better, this time!) really helped me get past the fear of painting my minis.
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Aug 25, 2010 21:59
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WYSIWYG and Aesthetics wherever possible. Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I really need to redrill that slugga barrel... I swear it didn't look that off when I drilled it. I try to model all my special figs with their appropriate weapon loadouts, but lately I've been trying to give them special attention over the generic rank and file models since they're intended to stand out a bit more. Since I'm going to the trouble of designating a model as different than the rest, I may as well go all out and (try to) make it really cool. Or really silly. That works, too.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Sep 4, 2010 09:00
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Jonny Nox posted:Do you have a friend with a macro lense and a light box? I still love this model. My friends are (mostly) slackers in terms of painting, so sadly no. I can try to get a better pic soon, though. Plenty of nice, bright sunny weather here in Cali so I can try some outdoor shots.
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Sep 5, 2010 19:49
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