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I've gathered some equipment, and I think I'm ready to make a serious run at mini painting. This thread may have been the most informative thing I've read in years, not just for painting our fancy G.I. Joes, but on art in general. I'm most of the way through the thread now, but as I go, I'm collecting questions. First off, I want to go with white primer. I know several brands were discussed, but what is the general consensus as to the "best" brand? (Assuming I already know to spray in short bursts, keep the can about 6-8" away from the figures, keep the can warm and to not breathe in the fumes.) Also, back in the far-flung year of earlier this year, Sole.Sushi, you made a post about thinning fluid: Sole.Sushi posted:Super slow dry: 1/1/8 water/flow-aid/slow-dri. Just to clarify, you meant that the 1/1/2 blend was the baller thinning fluid, right? Not just straight flow-aid or something. I just wanted to make sure before I bought the slo-dri. Past that, I think I'm good on questions for now. Apologies if I'm asking stuff that's already been answered, but it's going to be days before I get to the end of this thread, so I'll just update with questions as I go.
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Dec 17, 2010 22:39
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PaintVagrant posted:Krylon flat white works just as well as any other primer, and is significantly cheaper and easier to find. http://www.krylon.com/products/indooroutdoor_primer This stuff?
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Dec 18, 2010 04:13
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PaintVagrant posted:Nope, this Paint as primer? You hardcore mini-painters live on the edge of madness! I picked some up today, though. I'll try it out on a test mini or something.
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Dec 19, 2010 01:03
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Holy poo poo... I'm back in my hometown, visiting with my parents for the holidays, and I bring up that I'm considering buying an airbrush later this year to my dad. Dad: Hell, I've got an airbrush you can just have. Me: Is it just one of those cheap bottle-fed ones? Dad: Yea, it's got a bottle that feeds it built into the top. Me:  So it's gravity fed.Dad: Yea, but do you have a compressor? Me: No, do you? Dad: Yea, but you wouldn't want a full-sized one for an airbrush. Me:  Dad: And it's got a bigass tank attached to it. Me:  ...Unfortunately, I have no freaking way to get it back home. I'm traveling back in a small car with 2 other people and 2 dogs. 
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Dec 22, 2010 04:23
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The airbrush dad was willing to let me have was actually a bottle-fed external mix. (He thought you held it with the bottle facing up  )And he wasn't offering me the air compressor, like I thought. He was just telling me he has it. Apparently he uses it for cleaning his workbench and filling tires. And to top it off, the friends I was supposed to go back home with flaked on me without even an apology. 
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Dec 25, 2010 19:25
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PaintVagrant posted:Merry Christmas! It's the most wonderful time of the year!!  (I got a Khador Battlegroup though.  )
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Dec 25, 2010 23:50
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I've got most of my gear together, I've got most of the flash trimmed from my Khador Battlegroup, and I think I'm going to get my oath on in January. (  )I just wanted to double check about the glue for WM minis. I know it's been mentioned a few times, but I can't find the specific info. I have this:  And this:  Will either work on PP's awesome resin-plastic?
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Dec 31, 2010 23:23
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pw pw pw posted:Gob Mawblin Those are beautiful. You are beautiful. (Also, for your next HQ, I have to recommend "Bager Beiger") Uber Kosh posted:Anyone know of a good method of doing weathering on a Drop Pod? I can only find examples, no how-to. http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1926 Hope this is what you meant. I found it while looking up ways to weather the metal on my new Warjacks.
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Jan 3, 2011 20:03
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Found one of these: http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/products/neo_cn/ Cheap at the local Hobby Lobby. Is it a good brush? Or should I just go ahead and buy a Paasche Talon? EDIT: If it makes any difference, I found out that the hose for the Neo CN is sold separately. Hermetic fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jan 6, 2011 |
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Jan 6, 2011 06:18
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Sole.Sushi posted:Nah, that one looks pretty cool. Iwata is a pretty well-known and reputable brand, so it's not going to poo poo out on you. The hose is sold separately though? Might not be a problem if your compressor comes with the right hose you need. Thanks, Sushi! I'll check the hose on the compressor when I buy it, and if it needs one, I'll buy/order it. So what's a good primer for airbrushing? I've heard good things about Mr. Surfacer 1200, but I'd definitely have to special order it. EDIT: The only jar primer I can find in the area is Testors Acryl Grey Primer. Anyone had good results with that? Hermetic fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jan 6, 2011 |
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Jan 6, 2011 07:00
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ghetto wormhole posted:Looks like Borderlands to me. Badass Corrosive Carnifex
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Jan 10, 2011 00:43
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I've got some minis on order, and I figure I might as well get used to pinning right off the bat. However, the P3 Drill I had my eye on seems to be in short supply lately. The only one I can find reliably online is the Army Painter drill. Is it any good? If not, is there some specific drill I SHOULD buy? Also, are bits pretty much interchangeable between various drills? Like, if I buy the Army Painter drill, can I just buy P3 bit/rod kits?
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Mar 15, 2011 21:58
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pw pw pw posted:Found this beauty on Advanced Tau Tactica Tubtau!
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Mar 18, 2011 16:19
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Finally getting around to painting a bit after my life going all pear-shaped earlier this year. I've got some Khador figures that I've been dicking around with in preparation for the Eldar my friends talked me into getting with Christmas cash this year (40K is approximately ∞∞ times more popular here than Warmahordes), and I had a few questions: 1) Close inspection reveals that my paint is winding up spotty on the mini. Is this due to over-thinning, or something else? 2) To other Khador players: How in the gently caress do I paint the faces on these sons of bitches:  The mini comes as a solid piece, so I can't paint before assembly. So is there some sort of super-secret trick, or is it basically just "break out the 000 brush and be really careful"? Also, I think I have officially reached a state of love-hate with white primer. It makes my colors pop, but it puts my many, many mistakes on display for the world. It only hurts me because it cares, right? Right?
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Nov 26, 2011 06:56
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While I love that you guys assume my paint job is that awesome, that's the picture of the model from the Privateer Press website. I know to paint the face first, I just wondered if there was some kind of awesome trick to getting good coverage in there, or if it's just a steady hand and practice.
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Nov 26, 2011 07:20
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Here is "Khador Widowmaker Marksman," a cool warmachine sniper dude: Here he is, half-coated with a lovely paint job and next to a Space Marine: 
Hermetic fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Nov 26, 2011 |
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Nov 26, 2011 07:49
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Another question...someone (I think it was Sushi) mentioned original equipment manufacturers for Iwata and Paasche. A google search has proved fruitless, so I was wondering where do I find these OEM companies?
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Nov 26, 2011 19:28
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Sole.Sushi posted:Don't hand-form hamburgers before you cut sprues and you should be fine. But what will I eat while waiting for the primer to set up? 
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Dec 18, 2011 05:41
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Red Robin Hood posted:Any tips on how to paint sweet nemesis force weapons? Well, I was planning on doing mine the typical way (airbrush, white and several blues through an airbrush). You can see it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7me7OB3XP0 It's a great walkthrough of the standard method for force weapons, plus the guy sounds like Skwisgaar Skwigelf. However I don't know if doing them the regular sits right with me. If anyone has some better ideas, I'd love to hear them. (Also, speaking of the airbrush, I got one for christmas, just in time to pick up some grey knights with store credit. )
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Dec 31, 2011 02:44
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Naramyth posted:Is there a spray paint that is close to Kommando Khaki? Painting my Chimera is not very fun right now. Army Painter makes two colored primers that might work: Desert Yellow and Skeleton Bone. I've never used Army Painter products though, so I can't make any claims as to their effectiveness, though.
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Jan 8, 2012 04:56
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I'm looking into getting the Vallejo Model Air metallics, after hearing so much good about them I got Steel, which seems to be equivalent to GW's Chainmail. I've also heard that Aluminium is the equivalent to Mithril. Could someone with experience with the line tell me if those two comparisons are accurate? Also, what would be the model air equivalent to Boltgun? I'd make my own comparisons, but no one sells Vallejo products around here, and I don't want to have to buy every metallic paint they make in order to get the 2-3 paints I need. Hermetic fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Jan 8, 2012 |
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Jan 8, 2012 17:00
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Dominion posted:The equivalent to Boltgun would be Gun, I believe. Hm... That's crazy enough that it just might work! Thanks!
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Jan 8, 2012 17:19
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Started working in earnest on my new Grey Knights today. Drilling barrels is more fun than it should be. Scraping mold lines from terminators is God's punishment for playing a Matt Ward codex.
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Jan 9, 2012 06:24
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Quick question, airbrushers: When I spray windex through my airbrush to clean it out, I get some leaks around the nozzle threads, as shown in the diagram below: Is this a major problem? Is my airbrush already hosed up? Or is this normal/easily correctable? It doesn't seem to be leaking paint or primer, just thinning and cleaning mediums, be they alcohol or windex. Sole.Sushi posted:Additional information that you might find handy: If you want to go darker than Gun, pick up some Vallejo Air Black as well. 1:1 produces a really nice burnt steel look. You actually listed the colour scheme I was thinking of using (once I decided that going primer grey wouldn't look as neat). When you say "Black" do you mean the actual chaos-style, #000000 black, or do you mean this "Black Metallic" colour they have?
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Jan 9, 2012 21:54
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MasterSlowPoke posted:That nozzle isn't tight enough. Take the wrench that came with your airbrush and turn it another quarter turn. Thank you! I took the little wrench to it, and it was nowhere near tightened in enough.
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Jan 9, 2012 22:22
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MORE AIRBRUSH QUESTIONS!  This Testors acrylic clear coat stuff:  Would it be okay to spray through an airbrush? If so, it doesn't require thinning, right?
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Jan 10, 2012 16:18
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I know it was a couple pages back, but I got busy, and didn't get a chance to reply for a couple days. The reason I was asking about semi-gloss varnish wasn't for a final effect, it was because one of the guys I'm looking at the techniques of (Buypainted on Youtube) was covering his metallics with a satin finish before painting over them. It seemed like it made blacklining with washes easier, and I'm guessing it kept him from blending the metallic flake into the coats he put over it. Has anyone here tried that technique? Is it worth bothering with? (Also, I ordered the rest of my Grey Knights! )
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Jan 13, 2012 16:46
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Sole.Sushi posted:Les on AwesomePaintJob did a similar thing once (you can see the full video here.); he used gloss varnish to both seal the metallic basecoat and to give him the ability to use windex to remove the excess ink from raised surfaces. I have to say, I'm almost done with my test model, and honestly I think I'll be going this route on the next test--black wash over the metals really made it look like a coat of grime over the entire model. Alternately, I may just do a blue wash. Gloss varnish I already own, so I'll try that. It's a spray can, but I need to get rid of my spraycans before I feel justified buying the liquid. And regarding the blue wash, post pics so I know if I should try it on my own models. I was thinking of using some blue wash in the transitions from the shadows to the base color.
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Jan 13, 2012 21:13
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Sole.Sushi posted:Pretty much this, Hermetic. I'll likely pick up some Vallejo blue ink tomorrow; I'll post a trip report once I test it out. Thanks Sushi, I'm eager to see how it turns out! Also, crossposting from the 40k thread: I'm just starting my first Warhammer army, and had a question about bases. I'm doing some basic urban basing with cork and wire mesh. I have some "overhang" from the cork and mesh of about 1/8" around the entire base. It looks cool, but it just occurred to me that there might be some rules issues with enlarging the base by a couple of millimeters. Will that be a problem with most other gamers? I don't want to wait until everything is painted to get told I'm inadvertently "modeling for advantage" or find out it's actually some type of massive disadvantage when using true line of sight. If it needs to be pruned back, I'd rather do it while everything's unpainted and easy to modify with a pair of sprue cutters and a steady hand. EDIT: Added a lovely cel phone pic so you can see what I mean: 
Hermetic fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jan 14, 2012 |
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Jan 14, 2012 02:05
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So are the bitz places perpetually out of stock, or did I just try to buy them at a bad time?
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Jan 14, 2012 18:01
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Dominion posted:Yeah they tend to be out of any pieces anyone actually wants. Like infernos pistols, the death company thunder hammer, possessed wings backpacks, devastators multimeltas, etc. Dominion posted:Yeah they tend to be out of any pieces anyone actually wants. Like infernos pistols, the death company thunder hammer, possessed wings backpacks, devastators multimeltas, etc.  gently caress. I wanted the legs, torso, psycannon arm and psycannon for a GK Terminator. Those are fairly popular, right?
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Jan 14, 2012 18:39
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Wow. He's charging more for a psycannon than Bitz Barn wants for all the parts I need (if they'd ever get them in stock, that is).
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Jan 14, 2012 19:21
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Sole.Sushi posted:Looks pretty boss to me, Broham. Awesome! Any chance of some pics?
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Jan 15, 2012 10:29
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Sole.Sushi posted:All right, Hermetic: Photos for you, and eye-candy for all! I think we were thinking of two different techniques, but I really like how your stuff came out, Sushi! Also, I drybrushed up a base tonight. It's incredible what a little corkboard and sand can look like with some black primer and a little paint. I'll take a crappy cel phone picture in a moment. EDIT: Wasn't kidding about the crappiness 
Hermetic fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jan 19, 2012 |
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Jan 19, 2012 05:21
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Sole.Sushi posted:It's possible; I have a hard-on for washes over metals to get various effects that look awesome for Putting a gradient of blue in the shadows to give it a sort of nmm-ish effect. I thought I had an example picture of what I mean, but I don't.
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Jan 19, 2012 06:01
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-levels of work. Sorry that I didn't get to help you out more. Also, thank you for the complement; the model is currently sitting in Simple Green so I can adjust the color scheme. I tell you, I'm in love with the idea of this whole test-model thing.
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Well, my Grey Knights and the paints I wanted arrived today. Fortunately, my photographer neighbor is back for the semester, so my blurry cel phone pics will hopefully soon be replaced with sexy, well-lit glamor shots. I'm getting ahead in my semester's reading tonight so I can throw away tomorrow with a massive paint-a-thon.
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Jan 19, 2012 21:33
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I seem to have dropped my airbrush's nozzle down the sink. Can anyone tell me if Iwata airbrush nozzles come with the little o-ring that's normally attached, or do I have to find a place that sells THOSE too? EDIT: poo poo, this is an awful way to start out a page. In honor of my never-gonna-be-painted army, here's a cool Grey Knight I found: 
Hermetic fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jan 21, 2012 |
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Jan 21, 2012 15:45
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Indolent Bastard posted:Be a man and check your P-trap, it's probably just sitting in there. Thanks for assuming I didn't try. 
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Jan 21, 2012 16:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:Sorry about that. The problem is that the knowledge and skill level of the people on this thread varies so widely you never know if you are dealing with an inexperienced kid who has never touched plumbing or a veteran handyman that knows what to do. Sorry for snapping. Finding out that my landlord has epoxied my trap to the rest of the pipes (who does that?? ), losing an integral part of my airbrush, then finding out that iwata wants to charge me $20 for a tiny cone of brass kinda had me on edge.Sole.Sushi posted:Iwata should be able to sell you replacement parts direct. Also, I'm willing to bet that your airbrush came with a parts breakdown schematic; check that to see if the o-ring is connected or separate from the nozzle. It's listed s a separate part. I'll call them Monday and compare prices with what I found online. EDIT: Found one at the local Hobby Lobby. And I have a 40% off coupon!
Hermetic fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jan 21, 2012 |
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Jan 21, 2012 20:26
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What do you guys use to fill the gaps in your space marines' torsos? the seam along the side bugs the hell out of me.malal posted:I made a promise to myself though, I can only buy stuff after everything I own thats unpainted is painted. I didn't have it that codified, but I was thinking something similar, so I'm adopting your scheme. 1K painted = 1 new box. ....a battleforce still counts as "a box", right? 
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Jan 22, 2012 20:37
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