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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:41 |
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Crosspostin from the warhammer thread. Finished for now. In keeping with my 'try a new painting technique on each character' I had a proper go at Blending on his cloak. Red to black, to Purple back to black and then Blue. The Purple doesnt really show up because I kept it very dark but you can kind of see it. Was an interesting experiment, I need to plan it a bit better for next time. I'll probably fix some of the mistakes I've noticed from the photos when I do the base, which I'm thinking will be snow to brighten the whole model up a bit. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2009 23:50 |
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FirstCongoWar posted:Never, ever work straight from the pot, it will forever look like poo poo Wrong. If you're doing rank and file its fine. If you're doing anything with blending or whatever then you need to thin them down.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2009 23:20 |
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FirstCongoWar posted:sorry dude unthinned paint looks like poo poo even in the middle of a rank of dudes. Oh really? Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Un thinned paints all the way. Straight out of the pot on 99% of that. The only things I thinned were mixes for some of the gems because I didnt have the right colours. So yeah its very possible. I wouldnt do it again because my painting looks so much nicer now but it can look good if you put the effort in.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2009 23:42 |
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Bobx66 posted:That isn't a casting error. Seriously there is no excuse for not thinning paints especially when it is clear that you have talent. If you had thinned your paints that model would be pristine and it wouldn't like house paint bubbling off the wall. That was a casting error on the right part actually. It was a hole I filled quite roughly with green stuff. The whole model was full of errors, particularly on the wraithbone parts, most noticeably on the shoulder guard. My whole point was its possible to paint out of the pot if you really want to, and if I hadnt said anything about using unthinned paints no-one would have noticed. But if you had read you would have seen I said this was the last model I did without thinning paints because it was the first one I had done that looked good. So have some of my better work. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. This one got frosted by a bad coat of spray varnish, which really annoyed me at the time but a 2nd coat almost fixed it so its not that bad now. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Waffleimages is being a bit poo poo and only loading half the pictures I try and upload so I'll stop now.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2009 11:32 |
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Whats the differance between a wash and a glaze? As far as I can tell they are almost exactly the same but somehow magically do different things.
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 07:51 |
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Skarsnik posted:A wash is designed to flow off the raised surfaces and into the recesses for shading So basically a glaze is a wash without using something to break the surface tension to simplify it?
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 10:47 |
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I picked up some of that matt medium so I'll use that thanks for clarifying everything.
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 21:20 |
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Aside from a few touchups and bits i've forgotten to paint that I've noticed in the photos this guy is done. If anyone remembers I've been painting models and doing a new technique on each one to try and teach myself all the gimmicks and whizbangs that you good painters use. Tried NMM for the first time, some bits worked and some didnt. If I did it again I think I could do everything a bit better but it really was excellent practice for blending so it was worth all the effort. I do the cheaty method on gems so they'll get the shine when its varnished. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2010 23:16 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Thats really solid for a first attempt, NMM gold is hard Tell me about it. The silver halo by comparison was just so easy. The hardest thing I found was actually getting it to look, you know, gold. Once I figured out that the fake shine was all down to contrasts that bit got easier, but getting it to look gold was a excercise in frustration and many many different wash mixes.
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2010 23:27 |
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My Sanguinor is now sitting in the Window display case in my local GW. As sad as it is, I've wanted a model in the display cabinets since I was 12. The massive list of compliments helped too.
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2010 21:52 |
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KingMob posted:Crossposting from the Warmachine thread. I know this sounds silly, but spray it with the same varnish again. My Sanguinor turned 'frosty' on the back from the matt spray and a second coat sorted it out fine.
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2010 17:16 |
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Finished the first Sanguine Guard to go with my Sanguinor that I posted what seems like months ago now. Did the gold slightly differently to that and I think it worked better this time. Also i'd like to reiterate never ever use any spray varnish from GW. Nearly destroyed this model if I didnt know about brushing on gloss varnish to fix frosting. Anyway, what do you guys think? Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jul 16, 2010 |
# ¿ Jul 16, 2010 21:20 |
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counterspin posted:How does brushing on gloss varnish work exactly? Do you do this at the end of the painting process or at the beginning? Occasionally (always with GW satin spray varnish) if the climactic conditions arent absolutely perfect when you spray satin varnish it doesnt cover correctly and you end up with pits in the varnish. This causes it to look like you've blown sugar over the model and makes people cry. If you brush gloss varnish over the top it will fill in the pits, smooth everything out again and return the model to how it should look, just with a gloss finish. Spray the satin over the top of that and it should turn out right. I'm going to brush gloss on every model before I even spray it satin from now on to prevent any accidents.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2010 22:12 |
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Reposting because they got ignored in favour of varnish chat Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2010 17:05 |
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Fyrbrand posted:'Anus' the marine definitely should not have been ignored. Cool poo poo man. Knew I should have made the J more prominent
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2010 17:55 |
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I want to steal that turqoise for those Forgeworld Tau suits.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2010 22:23 |
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I did mine with black primer. It makes the blue darker and is a lot easier for beginners than white primer. If you're going to use yellow instead of gold for the shoulder pad just use a foundation grey to make sure it gets that separate brightness. I'm really not a fan of the bright 2nd edition style Ultramarines though so go with what you feel really.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2010 18:32 |
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Since I find myself unexpectedly unemployed I had a bit of time on my hands so I thought i'd do a bit of painting. First thing I've done in a couple of months and I quite like it so have an in progress shot. Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2010 23:10 |
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Finished all but the base. Its amazing how much you can get done when you still get up at the usual time to go to work Click here for the full 800x600 image. The gun is most likely going to get a complete redo because it just doesnt look right in pictures. Looks decent enough in person but its just not quite there.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2010 19:11 |
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crime fighting hog posted:Looks great! How'd you do the wings? Straight out of the guide in the WD. 1:2 Fenris Grey/Astronomicon Grey basecoat. 1:1 Codex/Fenris Grey wash. Add a little black for another wash thats only in the corners right up in the wings. Straight Astronomicon highlight, then 1:1 Astro/Skull white then finally pure skull white for the brightest parts. Key is keeping the highlights very thinned down so you can build up the colour to different strengths so you dont need to do a million layers adding a little bit of extra skull white each time. I also kept each stage in a seperate pallet dimple so I could wet blend the layers if it got a bit too strong and needed the edges softening. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 18, 2010 |
# ¿ Nov 18, 2010 22:05 |
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Finished completly now so I got the proper camera out. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2010 23:35 |
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Finished another one. Only 2 more to go Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2010 18:04 |
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Pfhreak posted:If I clearcoat my minis because I think they are done, then decide I want more detail on something later, can I just paint over the varnish? (I'm thinking about things like the gems on my Menoth minis.) I do this all the time. Just varnish them again afterwards.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2010 21:26 |
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Big Willy Style posted:So this is how my cold ones are looking at the moment. These own. And yes, use a purple. Green will look too jarring.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2010 22:08 |
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I got one as part of a hobby supply set that my dear old mother bought me one christmas and I can say hand on heart that it is the worst piece of garbage i've ever used. I only used it to try and basecoat a tank and not only did it gobble up a whole pot of paint but most of it dribbled out of the needle because it wasnt aligned properly. All you have to know is that its probably the only piece of kit the staff wont try and upsell you with because they know it will just come straight back.
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# ¿ Dec 3, 2010 17:28 |
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Why is the tank luminous yellow and the marines a more orangey/yellow?
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2010 22:53 |
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I do it after the base is done but before static grass. No matter how much you blow off the grass I always get some stuck to the model by the varnish spray.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2010 21:54 |
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Why do I always end up after PV's stuff. Life isnt fair. Finished the first of the 5 Sternguard I've painting in Blood Raven colours. I'll wait till the lot of them and the bases are finished to do proper photos. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. I really enjoyed not trying to overpaint it. Kept things simple with basic blending and sped through it.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2010 03:02 |
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Wondermoose posted:Question about varnishing, Multiple thin coats. If you put it on too thick you'll end up with it 'frosting' and then you'll cry. Make sure each coat is thoroughly dry before you do the next one.
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# ¿ Dec 31, 2010 00:08 |
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Joining in! Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2011 19:24 |
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Fix you own
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2011 20:00 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Bhyo, can you tell me how tall the Sanguinor figure is? I've been wondering for a while. 2 and a half inches max from the bottom of the scrolls to the Halo. He's smaller than the Sanguine Guard in both height and bulk. I finished something else today. Been working on it for about a week and a half. Pic dump incoming because I am v.proud of it. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image. Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2011 22:33 |
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Theres a J before the A! I've made it a bit more distinguishable since that photo was done. Regal Blue, Hawk Turqoise and Bleached bone. Add some skull white for the final highlights.
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2011 01:10 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Stories of models getting broken make me cringe. More so when it's something bizarre like that. Lol if you've never seen someone pick up an old Hive Tyrant model they've just finished painting, go to put it in their case and have it fall off the base and shatter into 20 pieces.
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# ¿ Jan 10, 2011 17:15 |
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Bachtere posted:Dwarf Lord from the oath thread: This owns owns owns
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# ¿ Jan 14, 2011 15:48 |
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It looks ceramic. It owns owns owns.
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2011 02:26 |
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The base doesnt contrast the model very well other that I think they're fine. The OSL is v good.
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2011 16:40 |
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Fix posted:The molds got bent or something. Every assembly guide I read bitched about the back mount being bent. I had to wang on mine with a rubber mallet for about half an hour before it was even close, and even then I had to cut plastic off the back of the immolator plate. If and when sisters get redone I assume a new Exorcist is top of the list for models.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2011 13:36 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:41 |
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Napoleon wasnt actually short! He was average height for the period!
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2011 02:01 |