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I wanted to look into a quick way of painting some plague marines a nice deep/dull red with black trims. I'm pretty sure that I want to do some dipping but I'd like to know how to build the red up, if at all. Just basecoat white and get some red foundation on or what? It doesn't need to be bright red so I think that might save some trouble, at least.
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Dec 17, 2009 00:39
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Fyrbrand posted:I'm totally down with the Lord of Change being redone as a Horror deluxe. It can still have wings, I guess.
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Dec 29, 2009 01:37
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Does anyone have experience with paints from Lefranc & Bourgeois? The bottles claim to offer good coverage but of course they would. They're acrylics, water-soluble, supposedly dry in thirty minutes and come in bottles of 50ml for a little over three dollars if anyone wondered. Obviously it's a French company so maybe it's not too available outside of Europe. They're sold to people interested more in regular craft painting etc but they're meant to be general-use acrylics for any number of surfaces and I don't know why they couldn't work for miniatures as well.
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Jan 20, 2010 18:12
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I'm actually currently looking for some reviews and comparisons of the AP dip. The sellers say it's supposed to be more optimal for miniatures somehow but I haven't yet found much that confirms this. I want to get something of the same shade as their dark tone, anyway, it looks pretty useful for me. From the pictures I've seen dipping works about as well for most kinds of figures.
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Jan 22, 2010 21:49
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I sat down to clean some mold lines off some ork troopers. I got an arm with a pistol done and already wanted to murder people. Is there no way to make this bearable?!  Maybe I shouldn't bother with models that have cloths and leather and creases on them. Maybe I should get some fine sandpaper instead of using a knife.
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Jan 28, 2010 13:49
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Captain Invictus posted:Drag the knife along the mold line. Except for stuff like rope or hair, it should easily, quickly shave it off. If it's on hair, you're hosed. That's what I do. It's easy enough on smoother, longer surfaces but when it gets to lots of texture and fiddly bits I just start hatin'. I guess I'll have to suck it up and not play orks a lot, heh.
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Jan 28, 2010 14:55
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Anyone got some good tips for highlighting black?
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Jan 31, 2010 19:30
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Arlaharen posted:I use P3's Coal Black. It's a bit bluish which comes out nicely when you mix a little white into it. Just mixing some white into the black you use is a good idea, yes.  Do you aim for dark grey or a medium grey? Are really thin lines the way to go?
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Feb 1, 2010 17:04
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Anphrax posted:Oh wow, that's cool man! Check out that sweet rear end wear and tear! Oh man that's... wtf? Why is the fist PERFECT? maybe Imperial Fists are really proud of their heraldry but don't have time to clean much else while on a campaign?
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Feb 4, 2010 16:11
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When it comes to gretchin "too much" is not enough.
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Feb 6, 2010 21:01
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Just paint him in a colour that stands out well against the plain stone of the throne.
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Feb 7, 2010 18:24
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The plastic battle wizard.
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Feb 7, 2010 19:52
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Ashcans posted:Thanks guys, I was thinking all modeling and no painting, color differences didn't even occur to me. My rank and file skinks are pale green (Dead Flesh) with orange scales. I could make him straight-out orange and red. Would purple work? It's the Lizardmen color for Tepok, their god of magic, although I hate using Warlock Purple. Red would work. Yellow might work too. The pictures aren't exactly clear but the orange looks a bit brown-ish so anything that goes well with that would be nice. Pale green and orange is one hell of a combination, though.
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Feb 7, 2010 21:53
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I think I should learn how to sculpt. I am having great ideas for larger models but they keep refusing to simply materialise out of thin air.
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Feb 8, 2010 23:31
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At least you didn't pick white and yellow.
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Feb 9, 2010 15:35
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PaintVagrant posted:oh that poor guy fell down a hole, is he going to be okay? 
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Feb 9, 2010 18:59
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I think you've done a good job. I'm not a fan of the purple on the axe but it's a good tabletop standard for sure. Maybe use a darker colour for the rock unless it's just the flash or light that makes it look solid white.
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Feb 10, 2010 18:06
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I think that looks perfectly fine for your second miniature ever. You're paying attention to the details and all you need to do is practice.
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Feb 12, 2010 10:45
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Pretty much anything that removes paint can work for metals. You'd need some hardcore poo poo to damage that stuff. I've used the equivalent of Simple Green to great result, I'm just going to need some acetone still because of the glue and the really thickly slabbed-on decades-old paint in the crevices on some of the minis. It's kind of fun stripping minis that you bought on eBay. Some of them will reveal really funky colour choices.
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Feb 19, 2010 17:01
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Man that middle eagle is really off-centre 
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Feb 24, 2010 19:40
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How big is it?
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Feb 24, 2010 20:46
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I meant the actual size of it, not the scale. I looked the thing up and found that it's apparently 35 mm tall. So not quite big enough to be used as a tzeentchian daemon prince.  With swapping the head for a helmet and getting rid of the wings it'd make for a nice chaos lord, though.
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Feb 24, 2010 21:07
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crime fighting hog posted:Just put him on a really big base Like that guy who bought the standard bearer for the metal goblin chariot, put an axe at the end of the pole, gave the little guy gargoyle wings, put it on a big honking base, painted it red and called it a bloodthirster.
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Feb 24, 2010 21:19
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I saw it years ago! it's probably long gone by now. My searches did find me these things, though: Making one out of a balrog http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215714 lmao http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90746 cool objective markers, though, and the defiler is fine Making one out of a bloodthirster and also it has helicopter rotor blades http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/248261.page and upon further inspection some rad daemons in general
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Feb 24, 2010 21:40
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Paint it albino.
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Mar 9, 2010 17:53
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I think you should use a dark grey metal for the, well, the metallic bits but leave the blade a bright silver. I don't think there's a need to add more colours. Orange would probably look tacky anyway. The green is looking fine but finding a way of darkening it could be an idea.
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Mar 13, 2010 00:13
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Oh I see. I'm just not a fan of strongly coloured blades so that's why I objected. Fix posted:So, like a blackwashed boltgun? That dark? I don't know how dark exactly, but obviously dark enough that the silver shows up as a clear contrast. Whatever you did for the joints might be enough. Painting the handle black to match the bolter would be fine too. The wax is a bit tougher. A deep, brownish red could do. The parchment is probably best left as regular off-white.
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Mar 13, 2010 00:42
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Drill the handle and fit a LED in the blade. e: wait, do this for the eyes
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Mar 13, 2010 01:09
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Well, if the armour is painted a dull green and the lenses are a much shinier and slightly different shade of green I guess it could work. Dab on a little bit of gloss varnish to make them stand out more, too. I'd try yellow lenses, though. A nice golden one would fit great.
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Mar 20, 2010 18:38
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I think that red eyes would be too sharp. Unless of course you pick a red that isn't overly intense.richyp posted:What about yellow eye lenses? 
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Mar 20, 2010 19:18
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You can just paint the whole helmet silver. It'd go better with the red. Just add some silver trims in general too. You don't need to paint the eagle on the chest in a separate colour, either. It can just be included in the halved scheme like the rest of the chest.
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Mar 20, 2010 22:02
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Welp this is what I'd do with a split black/green colour scheme, influences disregarded:  Except I wouldn't have any particular colour for the chest symbol. I'm not personally one much for green, though.
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Mar 20, 2010 22:23
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Cakefool posted:While we're doing the painter thing, a bit of advice please. Pick orange/amber eyes. It goes well with blue and is red enough to work with green, too. If you don't want to repaint the eyes, just roll with blue eyes for the green helmets (or use white lenses) and paint the purity seals orange. Personally I'd paint Alpha legion something like this:  You've already got a much brighter green for weapons and such, though, so it's just as well to stick with black for cloth.
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Mar 21, 2010 15:50
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crime fighting hog posted:I figured out my high elf color scheme when I couldn't sleep last night, but I'll need some critique from you guys first before I ruin a whole army with it. Pictures when I get home. You could say what it is, too. It better be bright yellow.
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Mar 23, 2010 19:56
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You could also paint a more stylised scale mail pattern, if that's more your thing.
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Mar 25, 2010 22:36
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You could pull off red and brass if you added some black-and-white checker patterns. Even more so if it was a deep dark red instead of bright blood red. But yeah, city camo sounds cool. Goodness knows it'd need all the help it could get with hiding.
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Mar 27, 2010 13:08
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I don't think you should use green for both the feathers and the laurels but other than that it's looking nice.
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Mar 27, 2010 22:50
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I think it looks like it needs to be more orange.  It's kind of red at the moment.
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Mar 28, 2010 18:38
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I can see why you'd do the base first, though. It might be as simple as basecoating and drybrushing it so it'd be real easy to get at least one part of the mini completely done in short order. I hadn't thought about it because all the painting guides I've seen have it as the last step, but now...
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Mar 29, 2010 21:55
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We could maybe offer better advice if you took a picture of the rest of the army as a whole.
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Mar 30, 2010 23:30
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