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Dumb newbie question: I had a pretty big stint painting 40k minis a few years back and have recently got the itch to paint more stuff, despite not really playing 40k anymore (the local GW store closed). I was thinking of ordering a few metal Reaper minis I could use for DnD or whatever just to have some stuff to work on. My question is about paint. I think most of my old Citadel stuff is pretty much dead by now, there might be a couple of salvageable colors but I'm not betting on it. I still have primer and brushes and pallets and brushes and stuff - my girlfriend has a set of pretty nice acrylic paints that she never uses that she said I could use on stuff if I wanted. It's one of those artist sets with dozens of tubes of colors in a fancy case. Is that going to cause issues down the line or should I be pretty much OK if I thin things properly? If it's not going to work, are there any good paints out there that I should look into grabbing (honestly, the cheaper the better)?
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# ¿ May 17, 2014 23:06 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 14:36 |
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Thanks for the advice everyone - I found some old unpainted 40k models and was able to revive some of my GW paints, so with a set of Army Painter stuff on the way along with a few fresh models I'll hopefully have a few things done in a week or so. I'll experiment with the art paints I have on something I don't care about once I'm back in the swing of painting again.
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# ¿ May 20, 2014 06:42 |
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Hellbeard posted:A new figure in 1:56 scale. Just sort of freestyled it. This is loving rad - pardon the dumb question but what's it made out of? On kind of the same page, does anyone have any good greenstuff/general sculpting tutorials? Every time I try using greenstuff it ends up looking lumpy and gross and I'm unsure how to fix that with the sculpting tools I have. I just had a couple ideas for some dumb conversions using the stuff I've found and some minor greenstuff parts but I need to figure out how to do it, first.
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# ¿ May 21, 2014 00:29 |
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Does anyone have any tips for working with Reaper Bones minis, the sorta-rubbery white ones? I'm using Krylon Flat Black (a little Short Cuts Craft can, since I wasn't sure how great it would work) to prime things, but they seem to get really sticky afterwards. My metal minis don't have any issues (and seem to be painting up really nicely with the Krylon as a primer), but I'm worried that the spraypaint is like eating the rubbery crap. I don't think I'm using too much or anything, just going for a light coat.
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# ¿ May 31, 2014 18:56 |
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LumberingTroll posted:Check the OP of the Bones thread, all the tips you need to paint them are there. Whoa, thanks. I had no idea there was a full thread of this stuff. It looks like they don't even need to be primed in the first place, which is nuts. Unfortunately I've got a sweetass minotaur that is all sticky and gross now and I don't know how to remove the primer without screwing up details. I was really psyched about painting him, too. Nerts. E: Also, some of the pics in that thread make me feel crazy inadequate about my painting skills. Jesus, some of you guys are incredible. Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 19:20 on May 31, 2014 |
# ¿ May 31, 2014 19:07 |
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Two weird questions: 1) How do you guys deal with parts of the model that are really hard to access? I'm painting this cool dragonborn guy (03436: Dragonman Warrior from Reaper if you want to look it up) but it's drat near impossible to see what his loincloth-cape thing (loincape?) is doing between his legs and behind the shield. How am I supposed to deal with that? I'm thinking I could whip out my soldering station Helping Hand thing to hold it at the right angle and get some magnification in there but even then I don't know how to paint clean in there. I realize that since it won't get seen a whole lot it's probably a nonissue, but I'm just looking for general tips. 2) For the same model - does anyone have any tips on getting a nice metallic color? I'm doing the armor with a mix of blue and chainmail (from the Army Painter set someone recommended - it's basically Ultramarine blue and Chainmail silver from what I can tell/remember), the basecoat using a ton of the chainmail and then progressively more blue/less metal as I work up the highlighted parts. I'll probably end up doing a reaaaaally faint chainmail highlight on the edge of each armor piece when I'm done but I'm wondering if there's a "standard" way to do this since right now I'm just guessing. It's a hell of a sweet mini though and I'm having a great time with it so far. The gold-wash chat on the last page or so has been helpful too since I'm going with gold for his kneepads and armor embellishments. Thanks again for everyone that's given me advice already, too!
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2014 02:22 |
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Dumb question: is there any easy way to fix a portion of a model that's been painted too thick? I hosed up the skin tone areas (torso, arms, face) on my pewter Kjell Bloodbear so badly that every time I look at it a chorus of angry painters in my head shouts "THIN UR PAINTS!!!"
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2014 20:19 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:No. Either live with it or strip the whole thing and repaint. Ugh. I'm so bummed about this. On the one hand I want to just live with it because I've already painted some of the other stuff pretty nicely, I'm probably going to be using it in a game and no matter what it'll look nicer than the prepainted official D&D minis, but on the other hand I do have a few more pewter minis to prime and paint... As long as I'm here, I know I asked some dumb questions about Bones in the past but I still just can't seem to get the hang of them. You don't really have to prime them, right? But it seems like the paint just does NOT want to stick unless I don't thin it at all, in which case the basecoat gets all gross and it comes through into the details. Any tips from the pros?
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2014 01:50 |
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signalnoise posted:Did you wash the minis? Yeah, with a soft toothbrush and everything. It's like either I'm using full-bodied paint and it sticks or I water it down even a little bit and the model goes all hydrophobic. I'm using Vallejo paints, if it matters.
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2014 04:00 |
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Is there a good casting kit for complete idiot beginners out there? I want to try my hand at making some dungeon features and am not really sure where to start.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2014 20:12 |
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What's a good primer for metal? I've been using Krylon Short Cuts Matte Black but it seems to rub off protruding details so easily that its hard to paint a basecoat.
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2014 20:23 |
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Big Willy Style posted:Does it actually say primer on the can or is it just a regular old can of matte black spray? In my defense it's what the guy at the hobby store suggested.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2014 16:40 |
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I've never used a primer that didn't chip or wear off sharp edges or corners on metal if I handled it too much. Yeah. Well. Apparently I've never used a primer at all since my local GW closed shop.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2014 16:58 |
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JoshTheStampede posted:GW primer is also just spray paint, sorry. Now I'm more confused than ever. E: does this mean that using spray paint is more or less okay? Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Nov 8, 2014 |
# ¿ Nov 8, 2014 18:46 |
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Pierzak posted:Be careful to get their primer-primer and not primer-colored-paint-named-primer My world is all turned upside-down here.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2014 20:46 |
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What do people use for masking when airbrushing a model?
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2015 15:01 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 14:36 |
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Big Willy Style posted:When I was removing mold lines I had to literally carve if off with a hobby knife rather than scraping it off. You would have no hope with files I would imagine but I didn't try them. Yeah definitely do not file Bones. I personally think they're pretty cool but they have their downsides. They at least seem to have fewer mold lines than some of the PP stuff I've seen.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 00:32 |