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aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Hey guys, really liking all the stuff in this thread, it just blows me away that you can get such a rich amount of detail with all these paint schemes. I've recently picked up into getting Warmachine and I am interested in getting started with a paint scheme for Khador - the black/gold scheme posted on page 7 or so with the Butcher and the Man-o-Wars is pretty solid.

And now for the newbie questions: As kind of like a really brand new beginner, what kind of supplies should I be looking for? Is there a significant difference in black primer, etc. that I should be aware of? I have a small pack of brushes that I haven't opened yet and I've started to file the lines off of my minis, but in terms of technique and stuff I am just sort of going to try and follow the painting guide in the back of Warmachine Prime. Are there any other tips and such that I need to know about?

edit: I found a review of that brush cleaner stuff if you guys want to see it in action!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vC5j4mdlDM

aldantefax fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Nov 6, 2009

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aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Aranan posted:

Do it! For what it's worth, I picked out the colors I want to use on those guys and stole borrowed PV's recipes.

Thanks! I understand that picking out black highlights is kind of a trial in and of itself that other people have reported problems with, but I think I can do it. For the sake of substitution I might use just the P3 paints (my local gaming store stocks only P3s and I'd like to support 'em), so the other washes and inks that look like Citadel and Games Workshop types of paint colors I might have to use that Color Match tool and try to find some equivalents to see what works out.

Question: What do you guys use for a physical palette? I used to know a guy who was really good at painting minis, and he would use a piece of glossy white ceramic tile in addition to some small ceramic bowls for color-specific gradients that he was trying to get. Also, how should a painting area be lit? Incandescent and fluorescent kind of make models look differently, as I understand it.

Thanks again for the help guys! I will get to work and try to see if I can get something painted hopefully soon!

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

The first step is spending money, as they say! Actually, a majority of my MOW models were assembled, but I broke 'em up so I could paint each piece in more detail. I actually saw the P3 painting teaser video on the Privateer Press website, which actually demonstrated what I sorta need to do in order to get a solid gold. I picked up a fairly cheap set of brushes for drybrushing and a cheap palette to try and make sure the blending works well.

One thing that comes to mind is: primer it as black, or gray? I might need to go buy black, since I have a matte gray right now.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Hello again! Unfortunately, full time job in addition to full time school is preventing me from actually getting my minis into a box and properly priming them to get them ready to paint. I ordered a bunch of new Warmachine stuff, too, but people keep pressuring me to play (since I got hamboned in an escalation league I basically was not planning to participate in because I have so little time). I do have a question, though!

How do you remove superglue from metal models? I read around and saw there was some like super glue removal kind of deal which works real well - I wanted to paint my models unassembled first and then assemble them after they're properly painted. There was also talk of using nail polish remover or some other type of high-content acetone solution.

On the flip side, when gluing models together, is it worth it to use that Rapid Cure stuff? I heard it reduces adhesion time to like 10-15 seconds from a fresh gluing, which sounds great for temporary assembly, but it also has the tendency to make glue bonds stronger, so I'm confused as to if that is worth buying or not, also.

As always, great work in the thread, and thanks for the advice!

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Bobx66 posted:

I dont know where you get your glue from but wherever I go there are 4 different types. The company lets the retailer brand it with their name. There is Purple, Blue, Red, and Green. The green is anti super glue. You pour it on let it sit and wiggle the piece free. Its also great for washing your hands.

On the "kicker" I find that it cures weaker but I love the stuff. I use it all the time on metal models. Just make sure you are pinning your larger bits and the weaker bond wont matter.

I've been using an old bottle of GF9 hobby glue, so I guess that is the Blue label stuff.



Can't say I've ever seen any of the other kinds of glue that you're referring to - would you be able to point me in the right direction? I really have no idea where to buy supplies other than random places online, Home Depot, and my FLGS.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Ashcans posted:

magnet bases

You mentioned you used this for a Hordes mini, but what is the use in doing that for a skirmish level kind of game like Warmachine and Hordes? I figured movement trays etc would be useful only for much larger scale games, and I can see it becoming kind of an issue when moving around on terrain.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Welp, going to try and just go through this with one model first and see how it goes. Just put on a second coat of P3 black primer onto a Man-o-War Demo Corps that I had assembled - hopefully it will turn out okay

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

So I managed to get my one Man-o-War Demo Corps grunt primed black. I found that I was laying on very brief spray passes, so it did take me three or four coats, but I lost none of the detail and I was pretty pleased with the way it came out. I managed to accelerate the drying process by placing the priming box I made on top of the vent on the stove in my kitchen nobody was using (so no explosions, just faster drying!)

I lucked out since I was trying to find all the paints I needed - I ended up picking up the P3 Skorne pack in addition to some paints that I already had but hadn't worked with. So now I have:

'Jack Bone, Skorne Red, Greatcoat Grey, Solid Gold, Quicksilver, Thamar Black x2, Morrow White, Pig Iron, Umbral Umber

I hope I'll have enough consciousness and drive to try and start laying down the basecoat tonight. I had some concerns that the superglued joints would become really obnoxious since I am kind of ham-handed when assembling models, but it looks like it turned out for the best (especially on the wrists - those things are the devil).

My paint scheme is probably going to end up something like this for right now:

Black:
Thamar Black basecoat
1:1 Greatcoat Grey + Thamar Black cover most of the black, leaving some in darker areas, undersides of arms, etc.
Thamar Black is this supposed to be a wash for blending?
Greatcoat Grey thin edge highlight
1:1 Greatcoat Grey + Menoth White Highlight final edge highlight on tiniest and highest points

Red: Dunno when I'm going to do the reds, I think it's going to be the last thing.
Skorne Red basecoat
Devlan Mud wash
Skorne Red highlight
2:1 Skorne Red + Iosan Flesh highlight

Gold: I don't really know how the wash process works so I'm going to have to go out on a limb here.
Umbral Umber basecoat
1:1 Pig Iron + Solid Gold wash
Solid Gold - wash again

Metal:
Pig Iron basecoat
Thamar Black wash
Umbral Umber substituted for Khador Red Highlight for rust effect? otherwise armor wash
Pig Iron drybrush highlight
1:1 Pign Iron + Quick Silver edge highlight

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Phew, this whole black thing is kinda hard. I think it is also the fact that I don't have adequate lighting and I don't think I'm using the right brush to touch up areas that aren't supposed to have been hit by drybrushing. I find that especially with the way I've posed the Man-O-War, it is very hard to paint in a few areas, both in terms of maneuvering to get the brush there and getting an even coat.

I did however get to try out this Armor Wash stuff. It's badass.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

stabbington posted:

Yeah, that's gotta be bullshit. Going to stick to scrubbing everything down before priming, either way.

On an entirely different topic, any suggestions for foam storage cases? I just discovered that my centurion somehow had its shield arm torqued straight off during my move a couple months ago, which tells me that my ghetto container store setup isn't quite cutting the mustard. Going to be a bitch to fix, too, sheared right along the pistons.

I have an Army Transport Platoon bag right now with pluck foam and that kinda doesn't really work all that well. Privateer Press has worked out a deal with the guys at http://www.battlefoam.com to produce Warmachine-branded bags. That company already sells the inserts, and while they command a high premium, it looks like probably one of the best things on the market. I plan on getting one of em when I have more cash lying around (ha, ha).

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'



Wryyyyyyy

Shortly before this picture, a lamp hit the hammer and knocked it out of its rightful place overhead.

Then the left arm fell off.

Well...I guess I might as well go and disassemble this dude and then pin him.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

PaintVagrant posted:

From what I gather (ive never assembled manowars) they pretty much have to be pinned, like most PP stuff

Yeah, but I seem to have gotten the hang of the backwards lean that they adopt by putting them in slightly more dynamic poses (the other demo corps are still glued together).

YoungWolf7 did a pretty bang up job on demonstrating how to assemble them.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

So I bought the Privateer Press "hobby kit" for about 101 bucks with shipping, it comes with the P3 beginner's painting DVD. It should be here later this week - I'm pumped since I want to properly stick together a Destroyer and get priming!

Now, here is a question that I think is a 'to taste' kinda deal: do people paint multi-piece posable minis (Warmachine minis are pretty much the only ones that I can go off of since that's what I got) before or after assembly? I was having a lot of trouble with painting some of the areas with the way I had the Man-o-War posed so I think in his case I'll paint each major part seperately (upper torso, legs, left arm, right arm, hands and weapon) so that I can actually do it properly.

Also, for anybody who uses P3 paints: do you thin them at all when painting Warmachine figures? I would assume you would if you're trying to do layering or something like that, but if you're just, like, doing basecoats and stuff, thinning isn't required, right?

Ah, hell, I'll just wait for the DVD.

On brushes: What brushes to buy? I see that Windsor & Newton are like the gold standard, but are there alternatives? I see these Rosemary & Co Artist Brushes on CMON that are like, "this is basically Windsor & Newton for half off, beat that suckers!"

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

So, there's an actual Blick art store nearby me that I recently learned about! I want to go, but I also want to come up with a shopping list of stuff that I want to keep an eye out for when going there so I don't walk away with the wrong stuff and an empty wallet.

* Winsor & Newton Series 7 Brushes - Size 0
* Some cheaper brushes suitable for drybrushing
* Master's Brush Cleaner
* Some kind of porcelain palette?

I'm not sure if I'm missing anything here. I want to go pick everything up in one go instead of making multiple trips!

Going to try and do the highlighting and such on that WIP Man-o-War that I posted a little while ago. My P3 hobby kit just came in and I finished going through the DVD, which was very educational! Reading how-tos and stuff is good but really seeing the basics put together in a professionally done video really help me to understand the stuff.

Also, I need to go find some blue-tac now.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Aranan posted:

If you just get one brush, I'd probably suggest a size 1. It will hold more paint and the W&N's hold a point pretty drat nicely, so you still get the precision.

The palette is up to you. You can get cheapo plastic dimple palettes for less than a buck, or a ceramic palette for a few dollars, or just use paper plates and/or bathroom tiles. Or you could buy/make a wet palette.

So a Size 1 for sure, a Size 0 if money allows. What's the deal with those W&N Pointed Round brushes? Are those like a thing that I shouldn't consider? I think it was linked in the OP that it's something to consider buying, but I am not exactly sure what their specific uses are.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Nice, I found out that Games of Berkeley sells W&N series 7 brushes of all sizes and the GW washes so I can do those washes like PaintVargant does

I'm wondering - what are good models to practice painting on? Like, in order to help develop techniques without worry too much about getting mistakes you can't redo, are there certain kinds of minis that are good for just kind of getting paint onto to see how it turns out without shelling a lot of cash?

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Iron Squid posted:

Berkeley

Yeah, Warmachine doesn't happen nearly as much at Endgame these days as I understand it, but Finn is there and he does some amazing work. Sadly, when I went there last time they didn't have a lot of P3 paints and were virtually empty on brushes - think I hit 'em when they were waiting on suppliers. Apparently GF9 supplies have been drying up too since GF9 changed owners.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Aranan posted:

black man-o-wars from pages 13 and 14

I found where those pictures came from!

http://www.jrn-works.dk/gallery/min...e&model=Manowar

It seems that the highlights themselves are done with both blues and greys, not just straight up greys and whites. I guess they're also glazed with reds and purples for added richness to the blacks and the highlights, but I have no idea about any of that stuff.

Thanks once again for the minis, I will let you know when I receive them!

edit: speak of the devil they arrived just today like an hour after I posted

aldantefax fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Dec 17, 2009

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

I dunno if he primes black. I would ASSUME he does, but if he primed another color, but that's the only way that'd make sense to glaze.

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aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Fyrbrand posted:

Mulgggggggggggggg crosspostin' the illest Trollblood around









I can't help but note that this is NOT a dire troll mauler extreme and thus it may be ill, but it ain't ballin'

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