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I'm pretty happy with the half of a Blood Bowl team that I've finished so far. Not amazing compared to some of the pro skills on display elsewhere, but hey. Mostly I need to work on actually taking time on models so as to get some skills down, rather than just cutting corners and doing things quickly.  (cue all the 'I paint for commission, check out my pro blending and nmm' guys kicking sand in the face of the bungling amateurs)
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Oct 4, 2009 00:07
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PaintVagrant posted:How do these kind of bases work? Do you get a base with a sunken bit in the middle, a scenic bit and a miniature; are you supposed to provide the scenic bit yourself or is it moulded onto the miniatures feet?
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Oct 4, 2009 00:12
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Victrix are releasing some 54mm Peninsular Infantry. drat that's exciting.
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Oct 6, 2009 19:41
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Hello new project (crossposted from warhammer thread)  
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Oct 13, 2009 17:45
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Seriously, just go to a music store and buy a set of guitar strings. You'll get enough to keep you going for ages and the cheapest brand will be easily affordable, even if you have bought a Baneblade.
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Oct 13, 2009 18:04
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No Pun Intended posted:Sweet, they look well done. What is your general opinion on them? How prompt did they ship to you? Do I Really want to buy some? (Most likely answer - yes) They look really nicely cast, far as I can tell. They arrived ten days after I ordered them, which is better than you'll usually get from Forgeworld. If you're in the USA, however, it'd probably take a bit longer of course.
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Oct 14, 2009 10:39
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Cakefool posted:Painting tank tracks: Brown basecoat, tinbitz then boltgun drybrushing? Instead of brown basecoat and tinbitz, I'm all about Vallejo Dark Rust (it's in the Panzer Aces range) for tank tracks. Then boltgun, dirt with whatever method (paint, pigments or whatever) then a few bits of pencil or more boltgun on the edges that'll be clear of dirt.
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Nov 7, 2009 01:26
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Too much work, not enough time to paint spacemen. Current WIP of the bits that got painted before I assembled the whole thing.  
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Nov 12, 2009 22:03
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crime fighting hog posted:Looks like he just stippled. Piece of sponge for pro elite stippling action
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Nov 13, 2009 19:12
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LewdMonocle posted:Also. Has anyone ever tried motorizing their tanks? Found this kit at Tamiya, got me thinking.. Warseer has quite a few projects where people have done this, so if you search there you'll probably find some tips. There's a remote control superheavy out there with moving turrets and a motor too.
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Dec 2, 2009 19:47
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Aranan posted:So how big is a 1/72 scale tank? The thing about scale models is you can work out how big they will be  An M1 Abrams is 9.77m, from the muzzle of the gun to rear of the hull, so a 1/72 kit would be 13.5cm long.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:50
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Iron Squid posted:I'm putting some Sunburst Yellow onto an Ork that's been covered with black primer. The yellow looks pretty splotchy, unlike the Foundation paints I've been using. It looks like the Ork's gonna need two or three coats of yellow to look good. I just want someone to reassure me that this is normal and not a product of bad paint or lovely technique. This is normal. You'd be best off basecoating over the primer with either Iyanden Darksun or White, and then Sunburst Yellow, otherwise you'll have to do a good few coats of yellow to cover the black. Lots of the colours (particularly yellows and reds) don't cover darker colours very well.
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Dec 8, 2009 00:09
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 Argh my shaky hands.
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Dec 19, 2009 15:56
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enri posted:What's the general consensus on the army painter sprays? Are they up to the job or are they a pile of shite? Army painter grey primer is awesome and frees you from the black/white primer tyranny.
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Dec 20, 2009 15:33
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Been busy for what used to be the GBS thread. Crossposting without remorse, since I'm pretty happy.    
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Dec 23, 2009 23:52
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Yog-Sothoth posted:crosspostin! This is pretty nice. I really like the brass of the bell itself and the contrasts between the stone colours and the bright warp-fire and skaven.
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Dec 24, 2009 08:14
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Indolent Bastard posted:I used green stuff for the first time a few days ago with so-so results. What I'd like to know is other than liberally covering it and the working surfaces and tools with water how do you stop it from sticking to everything? I was amazed at how tacky it was. This is gross, but supposedly works: If you have remotely stereotypical goon oily/greasy skin then you can rub the (clean) tool across the skin of your disgusting nose, for example, and this will help stop the greenstuff sticking to the sculpting tool. Sole.Sushi posted:Where does milliput fit into this? It reacts very different to water, when compared to greenstuff, but you can sand and even drill it afterwards.
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Dec 26, 2009 20:41
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Myopic posted:Messily! It seems almost water soluble when not cured, putting it on there produces a kind of milky liquid that just gets in the way. It'd be useful for large-scale stuff because of how bloody hard it dries I think (plus it's a lot cheaper!), but I can't see myself using it for anything even approaching detail work. Mind you, I've only used Milliput super-fine for filling gaps on tanks because it sands well, so I can't speak for their other products. Yeah this is what I've used as well, you get two white "sticks" that are in different colour wrapping to mix together. It's very messy when you add water, but once you've got a blob on a miniature, it doesn't tend to peel off as easily as greenstuff seems to. I use it for gap filling around figure arms/wrists etc where you've had to cut/file to change the angle.
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Dec 27, 2009 01:59
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FirstCongoWar posted:Does anyone have experience with Pig Iron heads? There's a squad painting competition at my FLGS coming up and I want to use some to make a traitor guard unit. They're great. You just need to file down the neck a bit and they sit perfectly on cadian bodies.
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Dec 28, 2009 11:04
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Iron Squid posted:How can I make the chainsword and bolter on my Chaos SM look good? Basecoat tin bitz, drybrush boltgun metal, wash with badab black, thin some orangey brown colour and dab that on as rust streaks then highlight with boltgun metal. Or use PaintVagrants Patented Rust Recipe that I can't remember right now, but he is doubtless copy pasting right now Edit: Wait, if your guys aren't plague marines, they might not have old rusted weapons. Your guys are plague marines, right?
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Dec 30, 2009 20:30
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Iron Squid posted:That recipe sounds pretty good. Weapons that were a nice brass colour would go well with that.
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Dec 30, 2009 21:35
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Furret Basket posted:But it turns out that GW don't do non-metal metalic paints anymore. What's the best way to make metallic colours now? Boltgun metal paint. Wash over the top with the relevant colours. I remember when they released those metallics back in the day - the purple one was awesome.
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Jan 5, 2010 20:50
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Fix posted:I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops. I just paint something else instead. I really can't face painting any of my Imperial Guard so am painting 6mm modern stuff instead.
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Jan 9, 2010 14:13
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bhsman posted:or start a new army and come back to the original one later. crosspostin some teeny russians 
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Jan 9, 2010 22:17
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Sole.Sushi posted:If you have a motorpool on base, see if you can borrow some of their spray paint. Plenty of scale modellers prime with various brands of spray paint that are intended for spraying cars, so if there's any of that around you're probably good. Just test it first to see if it comes out too thick.
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Jan 10, 2010 10:36
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Combaticus posted:WOOP, think my trukk is about 95% done now It is 95% done and 101% badass. The shotgun strapped the the door is sweet as hell.
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Jan 11, 2010 00:43
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Ripper Swarm posted:I swear by Fairy Power Spray for paint stripping. Spray on, leave overnight, attack with old toothbrush, job done. Plus, I'm sure you can get it in Tesco. Never tried it on enamels though. fairy or cif power cream works awesomely. I've left metal stuff in it for a few days and the paint came off to a toothbrush with no trouble. I've only left plastic in overnight, which worked well with no damage but I don't know if it'll harm it if you leave it longer.
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Jan 13, 2010 15:17
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Fix posted:
drat, these are nice. Not the usual BLACK AND RED GOTHIC GRIM DARK SKULL SKULL SKULL colours. I'd say urban kinda bases, maybe medium or dark grey with occasional metals and rust.
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Jan 14, 2010 13:40
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Fix posted:
Plasti-kote krystal clear flat spray varnish. You'll be able to find it in art shops and at least in the UK, DIY places sell it. It's flat as all hell, not even a bit satin.
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Jan 15, 2010 11:49
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Fix posted:Huh. Looks to be UK only. I'm sure you can get it in the US, maybe under a slightly different branding - I'm pretty sure some stateside goon reccomended it a while back too.
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Jan 15, 2010 12:59
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Cakefool posted:Also, the Defiler owns so hard but I'm going to see if I can turn it into a crouching knight titan sized device. If you haven't already seen it, this warseer project log might interest you.
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Jan 15, 2010 15:25
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:No sir, spending over an hour a piece filing the inside part of a Killa Kan to make it fit the back half is what made me hate life. And then I did it 5 more times Yay, I made my Necron tomb spider! *I move the tomb spider very slightly and EVERY SINGLE PIECE falls off *sob*
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Jan 20, 2010 20:51
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The Saddest Robot posted:I've bought a bunch of pewter models from other companies and none of them were even close in terms of flash. Were they as detailed as GW stuff? The pewter stuff I've bought in 28mm is generally less detailed than GW's figures, but the very detailed 6mm stuff I've bought has had a lot of flash and the thin strands of excess metal trailing off spiky bits? I've not really seen much Warmachine type stuff though so dunno if that has the same problem or if they're awesome compared to GW.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:27
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PaintVagrant posted:privateer press, corvus belli, rackham, a bunch of other companies: dont have those stringy loving things Weird. GHQ certainly do have the stringy bits, though their metal is much softer than GW's. Someone should drop an email to GW and ask.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:34
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I hate it when they're lying flat across the model and you kind of have to pry them off/unwind them. It sorts of creeps me out somehow. Somewhat randomly, I just found some patents for GW's moulding process.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:41
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Cakefool posted:A 1/6 Sturmtiger. There's this weird scale modelling subculture who make 1/6 and 1/4 superdetailed tanks. Mostly nazi ones, unsurprisingly. The most entertaining part is that a lot of them are RC and you can find youtube videos of them having  battles or just driving around.Fast_Food_Knight posted:The minis of our past will always haunt us I was young once. I was evidently poo poo at modelling, painting and realising when something was a bad idea. On the plus side, at least it wasn't titmarines Disco 70s cop marines ITT.  Stayin alive, stayin alive Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jan 31, 2010 |
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Jan 31, 2010 00:09
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Furret Basket posted:Is this just eye shadow??? It's a slightly different consistency to eyeshadow, but yeah. My girlfriend suggested it was like makeup, but for tanks. On the packaging, it actually says that it's not a cosmetic product 
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Feb 3, 2010 21:12
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PaintVagrant posted:Boner status: PRESENT I haven't had the courage yet to even glue together my Smog figures, let alone start painting them.
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Feb 9, 2010 00:04
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Chenghiz posted:I just need to find a fuckton of stowage somewhere. Get some Tamiya 1/35 stowage sets from ebay or a local model shop. There's about seven or eight different kits with varying amounts of bags and gear.
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Feb 11, 2010 20:06
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Fearless posted:Here are some progress shots on my Warhound: loving sweet. At first I was going to be sarcastic about you painting camo on a titan but then I realised that a] they used dazzle camo on battleships b] titans are shorter than buildings so camo makes sense and b] it looks cool. The turbolaser is awesome. What are you going to do after the Warhound is complete? Edit: PaintVagrant posted:GS is kind of a bitch. Some people use light oils, try that instead of water I guess If you've got a goony greasy face (or even just the usual amount of natural oil on your skin without being a horrifying goon) then rubbing the clean sculpting tool across your skin is often enough to stop the greenstuff sticking to the tool. GROSS BUT PRO Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Feb 26, 2010 |
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Feb 26, 2010 22:47
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