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Aranan posted:http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=213 This one is great! You could try looking at plastic aquarium plants for jungle foliage too. Big bag of em are just $10. Just cut em up and throw them on a base. Let me know if it works...
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Dec 2, 2009 08:38
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Iron Squid posted:Do you guys work with your paints straight from the pot? And do you ever get clumps of tacky, partially dried paint about halfway up the bristles? I never work from the pot. Use a home-made wet palette using a chicken breast packing foamy thing, a paper towel and a piece of parchment paper. http://www.camospecs.com/Article.asp?FictionID=14 If you are getting clumps of dried paint halfway up the bristles, you are putting too much paint on your brush, and possibly aren't cleaning it properly. Steal a bar of soap from the bathroom and twist your bristles gently across it (with the brush handle close to horizontal I mean) before your final rinse. edit: added wet palette link edit 2: added these here pictures 
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Dec 29, 2009 |
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Dec 29, 2009 20:05
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Aranan posted:Out of all the materials to make a wet palette with, you had to go for the one that could give you salmonella? umm, clean it first?
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Dec 29, 2009 20:38
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Shallow posted:drink far less caffeinated drinks As an added bonus, you won't dip your brush in the coffee mug right beside your water jar. (Every loving time!)
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Jan 5, 2010 00:43
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Cakefool posted:I've just removed the mold lines from 25 torso fronts, backs & pairs of legs. Tomorrow, arms, heads & backpacks. Eye-gougingly fun stuff. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat1310001&prodId=prod550008a crap. not plastic.
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Feb 23, 2010 05:10
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Swags posted:What's a wash? And why is it recommended? here's a quick marketing blurb, along with recommended usage. Page 4 shows how washes look on the model. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=cat1030005&aId=6800011 Really helpful stuff to have.
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Apr 2, 2010 22:57
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Chenghiz posted:Arrrgh, a bird poo poo in me eye! e: aww damnit, new page and I don't have any minis to post. So let's decide if we like this battlemaster cockpit from camospecs.com 
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Apr 30, 2010 |
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Apr 30, 2010 03:32
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bhsman posted:
ratios are way off. (that is pretty cool)
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Apr 30, 2010 07:38
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azwethinkweizm posted:
I am certainly no judge, but it looks like the beginnings of the "pee pee dance" Can you move the center of gravity forwards at all? Bent the right (straighter) knee?
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May 18, 2010 20:16
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Aetilus posted:I hope they deal with that flash problem soon. at least on the most recent metals from gw, glaring casting errors and pieces that don't fit are becoming rarer and rarer. Sorry, but this comment had me thinking (for 2 pages, again sorry) I think GW is working on this. By converting their entire lineup to plastic. Every army iteration is mostly new plastics with a few hero characters in metal thrown in. They've explicitly stated their last big price jump was over the price of metals. They have new technology for designing plastics (CAD) that allow them to design cheaper, faster, and with more intricacy. Their plastic kits often come with complete unit options and are starting to have replaceable weapon options. Add the fact that they can charge the same price as for metals (see plastic Empire Greatswords) and I don't see a business model for having any metals by 2020. edit: PaintVagrant posted:Cool only 10 more years of garbage casts Oh and GW just put up advance order on the new Chaos Demons. 3 new plastic kits and one metal character. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 20:15
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So am I going to be getting the stink-eye from my wife for coming home with replacements for all my non-metalic and non-wash citadel paints? What colours are best from each company? P3 has good red and menoth white? Vallejo has ?? If I were to take a run to the hobby shop, what should be on my shopping list?
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Jul 15, 2010 21:40
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Well, it looks like I'm going to be bringing home a few bottles of paint for the weekend to see what's what! Should have the basement in the right state to work down there too, for the first time in months.
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Jul 15, 2010 21:47
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wickedkarma posted:After some fast learning to use a photo editor I have replaced the old washed out images with the fancy new images =). Hopefully these will be better. You hit the "I'm feeling lucky" button on picassa didn't you.
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Jul 16, 2010 14:58
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I don't know where I want to go with this guy. The green is okay, and the stomach is on it's way, but how can I make the face pop better?  Also, my first Krylon white primered model!
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Jul 27, 2010 03:07
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maliciousonion, what is the scale of that mini, who makes it?
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Aug 16, 2010 08:13
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But it's not 28mm is it? or else I'm gonna need a tissue and about 10 minutes alone.
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Aug 16, 2010 18:51
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crime fighting hog posted:No it's much bigger, like those Inquisitor sized models. 58 mm? I can't remember. 54mm. I may have been looking at GW's store at the Imperial Guard Inquisitor minis not 10 minutes after that image was posted.
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Aug 16, 2010 22:14
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MaliciousOnion posted:With regards to that ghost I posted, I think it may be coming out as a sculpt from Pizarro Miniatures. They've got this guy, whose pic was hosted at the same directory and has some similar details. Oh, and it's 54mm. I don't think they have Hellboy and Prince of Persia licenses, pretty sure they're gonna get sued. because drat 
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Aug 17, 2010 01:49
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So it's a good thing I didn't rename the image to hellboy.jpg, then. Also, a lot of their models are quite good. This isn't  I'm just glad it would cost me $40 cad + overseas shipping to get one, not that I'm tempted.
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Aug 17, 2010 01:59
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Tadhg posted:
Do you have a friend with a macro lense and a light box? I still love this model.
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Sep 5, 2010 05:40
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I once painted a red model by basecoating in white, shading in black, and then painting red over the whole thing. Turned out incredibly mediocre, but that was when I was still using Tamiya model paints, and sucked more than now.
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Sep 8, 2010 19:21
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^^^^Can you use green stuff to expand the armor plate directly behind the head to come up over the head so as to hide the seam?^^^^^ /end edit/ So with all the questions about comparisons of different brands of paint, I've come up with a here goes: Materials: 2 or more pieces of sheet styrene 2 cans spray primer, brand of choice in white and black Brush Palette Various colors and brands of paint. Method 1. Spray one sheet of styrene with black primer, the other with white 2. Take one bottle of paint 3. Place a dab of paint, un-thinned, onto a corner of the each sheet of styrene This would indicate the "infinite layers" color of the paint 4. Mix paint to milk consistency on palette 4a. For bonus, record ratio of water to paint to achieve this consistency 5. Paint a rectangle of paint on each color of styrene near where the dab of paint was placed 6. Allow paint to dry 7. Paint over half the rectangle with a second coat of paint 8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each color of paint being tested, so that you end up with a grid of squares each having a dab of paint, a single layer of paint, and 2 layers of paint. 9. Recomended: Using silver or black sharpie, label each square with a catalog number (ie a reference to a sheet of paper you recorded the brand and color on) or even paint name if room permits Observations By photographing and posting these sheets of styrene you can demonstrate how each brand and each color cover when on a model. By looking at the 2 layer and dab areas, it can be seen how the color reacts to being based with black or white primer. By comparing the 1 and 2 coat areas it can be observed how opaquely the paint covers, and numbers of layers required can be observed in at least a relative manner. Also the sheets can be observed under multiple lighting and photographic condition to see how different pigments react to these Modifications Rather than just a 1 and 2 layer sample, a larger rectangle with increasing number of layers can be used. By observing when the color matches that of the dab area, number of layers until maximum color clarity is reached can be estimated. Also, by scanning the sheets into a computer, digital analysis can be done, but then we'd look like loving nerds. ----- I could come up with method for testing viscosity and flow too, but those may be more subjective. So, yeah, if anyone could come up with something like that, I'd be infinitely grateful. EDIT: Responded to Aranan Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 23:09
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Fix posted:Priming isn't completely necessary if you are only painting with inks and washes. You're essentially staining the metal. You can clear coat over the top of it and you won't have stuff rubbing off. Just wanted to throw in that caveat. Yeah, but washes and inks are pretty transparent, so you'd want a primer coat just to have a workable base color. Your comment is true, just not useful.
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Dec 2, 2010 23:58
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Chewy, don't dump the water, that's the medium the paint is made of, it's got other things in there to help with flow, drying time, etc. As for size, you want something that will bounce around inside the paint bottle to agitate the solids and force them back into suspension. Too big and they won't move around enough, too small and they will just stick to the solids. You'll have a pretty wide margin, so just eyeball it.
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Jan 6, 2011 00:22
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I have a Pastelation question. I was messing around with a Retribution Light Myrmidon that I was planning on stripping in the near future, and wanted to see if I could make a pastel pink. So I mixed blood red and fortress grey, then highlighted by adding more and more white to the mix. It looked OK, but I was wondering if anyone else had tried this. My question is, will I get better results by adding more grey to succeeding highlights rather than white? I'm going to try adding grey the next time I can get to painting, so I will make a report here regardless. The bad side of it all is that now that my wife and daughter have seen the pink shoulder pad, the whole army is going to have to be done in that scheme. I'm just worried that this scheme will look really dumb on my non-myrmidon models. I may go with standard white magi-armor and use the pink on clothing instead. By the way, the army is going to be Rahn's Desert Dogs, I guess. e: I wasn't going to post this, but look at the end of this article for some interesting thoughts on painting and photographing white, black, and red. http://www.camospecs.com/Article.asp?FictionID=50 quote:As mentioned above, most colors lie somewhere in the middle of the shading scale. Black and white, however, are the exceptions…they lie at the ends. The problem with these colors is that there isn’t any “room” to maneuver. How can you highlight white? How can you shade black? Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 20:11
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Gentlemen. The experiment is complete and I am prepared to call it a limited success Click here for the full 800x532 image. Now to strip my models down, prime them with Krylon this time and actually paint them properly.
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Feb 12, 2011 07:28
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Calico Noose posted:Don't use a metal agitator, use a pebble, you don't want a paint pot full of rust. Use a lead or stainless steel BB Or a bit of sprue or those metal tabs that seem to be on a lot of minis
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Feb 16, 2011 05:53
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I'm sick of loving up my brushes. What's a good non-GW alternative for Bleached Bone? Specifically the old rotting-flesh(snakebite leather? don't remember how i did this now)->Bleached Bone->Skull white easy skeleton combo.
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Feb 17, 2011 19:19
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'll take a look at some of that stuff. I wish I remembered my old bone recipe because it looked badass and could build up nice depth of color without washes (because we didn't have those back then) Does anyone know why GW whites turn into glossy glue after a couple months? I'm guessing the kind of pigment used Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 23:11
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Hell Diver, if your faces are as simple as your furs, I've been doing painting wrong for always. Anyways, how did you do those faces. gently caress it, can you just do a tutorial on a full model, because you seem to have found a really nice line between awesome looking and simple. drat, those faces pop.
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Mar 2, 2011 02:12
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Hell Diver posted:knowing what to highlight. Well crap, it turns out you need time, experience, self criticism, and patience to get better? I was looking for magic words damnit!  Seriously, I've been trying to paint better for the last half year (at the frequency I paint, that's not long) and I've smacked into 2 problems. 1) When I didn't thin my paints as much, I would be able to highlight like a champ by just glomming my poorly thinned paints lightly on the model and it would stick to the high-up bits. Now that I thin my paints more, I get alot more paint onto my bristles, plus it doesn't half dry by the time I get to the model, so its smoothly flowing over the edges, right into the recesses I'm drying to keep a darker color. 2) I started painting Warmachine minis with their large sweeping curved armour plates, etc and don't have the fiddly detail molded in that my dwarfs etc could draw out for highlights. So now I'm trying to blend highlighted colors to keep the color from looking too flat, and it feels like it's arbitrary where I'm putting Highlights and shadows. It's not frustrating because the final product looks ok, but I'd like to know how other people add highlights to their models, and how much they look to add.
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Mar 2, 2011 16:26
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The Warmachine battle engines were all designed using CAD. It's to the point now that they used late renders as teaser images for 3 of them. The exception is the Menoth one where they did a CAD pass, printed it up in 3d then handed it to a sculptor to make all the fancy curlicues Menoth needs. It looks like the drivers are all going to be traditional sculpts. This industry is definitely in transition. I don't think the progress of 3d mini design is going to make miniatures cheaper, but it should make businesses more sustainable eventually. Insider articles follow: http://privateerpress.com/community/privateer-insider?page=11 http://privateerpress.com/community/privateer-insider?page=9
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Mar 4, 2011 20:09
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Hell Diver posted:I'm using P3's primarily at the moment, since I don't have access to my big collection back in the states, and they're certainly not terrible, I'm running into issues with the lids of the bottles breaking off or not sealing properly anymore and I've only been using them a few months. I remember during my previous life as a mini painter the employee at the GW store would always tighten the lids of ink bottles on those things before ringing them up. I find I need to thin GW paints alot more than the Vallejos I've used. ne: Hell Diver, you are awesome!
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Mar 10, 2011 20:17
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crime fighting hog posted:Finished another thing This owns so hard. I don't really like Chaos, but I love what you've done with the exposed muscle. I really like this paint job. I also like the stomach part and the way you painted the legs.
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Mar 16, 2011 19:50
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Hell Diver posted:Is it the 'Give them to Hell Diver because he's a Cool Dude' box? Oh, poo poo, I just noticed the white spots you're putting on the eye lenses. You must have surgeon's hands.
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Mar 20, 2011 06:34
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I'm done! All of the Space Wolves I need to paint are painted. Time to box them up and send them homewards to await my return.
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Silhouette posted:This is it. This is the Best Kan Ever. I sure am glad I read to the end of the thread before I posted this exact same thing.
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Apr 12, 2011 05:29
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Yeah, the model is pretty painter dependent, and clearly PV didn't bring out enough of his inner baby elephant torturer. The factory scheme looks a fair bit better. http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/skorne/solos/agonizer
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Apr 12, 2011 18:59
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PaintVagrant posted:The agonizer makes me sad The agonizer is for real the reason I won't touch skorne armies even though the look is one of the better ones in Hordes. Of course I said that about the back story for Cryx, especially Asphyxious. and well...  I only ever seem to get 15 points worth and move on to the next army anyway so horray for gamer ADD I guess Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Apr 13, 2011 |
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Apr 13, 2011 05:10
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SRM posted:Crosspostin' all up in here: I Love 'em! But I don't like the eyes. Too much white, looks like bugeyes. Maybe outline them in your dark skin color? I don't know.
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Apr 16, 2011 04:58
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OATH COMPLETE!
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so Bachtere is that Arachnarok model easy to assemble and get to look nice or does it need a lot of dryfitting and greenstuffing and swearing?
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May 1, 2011 21:56
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