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Sole.Sushi posted:Their white is pretty good too. Doesn't pool like other white primers I've used. The redshirts often remind me (sigh) about how their primers are specifically formulated for miniatures. While that may or may not be true, 15 bucks a can is loving expensive. They tell you about the dust coating that GW is supposed to use on their molds? The way it was told to me, the dust is so the minis don't stick to the mold, and the primer is formulated to eat the dust as a part of the priming process. I have not verified this, just what the manager at the one I used to go to told me.
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2009 07:05 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 00:22 |
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Aranan posted:We sperg about brushes and mold lines here. RAI and RAW discussions can't hold a candle to black primer vs white primer or painting before assembly vs painting after assembly. I am pretty sure you're being mostly ironic ((Except the mold lines.)), but I've been in GW stores in which this really was the case!
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2009 07:45 |
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Aranan posted:This is the only OSL tutorial I've run across. When I get my unpainted necrons out I'm so going to try this effect with their guns. . .
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2009 18:17 |
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Kestral posted:It might be worth it if you built a diorama for the army (or a particularly impressive squad), drilled some fine holes in the terrain, then embedded the smoke generator beneath it such that the "smoke" filters up through the holes around the models. Ya know, you could also do a piece of terrain that is hot springs, imagine the look on people's face when you put that on the table.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2009 21:09 |
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Bistromatic posted:Vallejo Sepia ink is pretty awesome too, mixed with a bit of black it goes on pretty much everything metal i do. I'll second this Valleju sepia + black inks really helped when I did my warmachine models.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2009 00:05 |
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Iron Crowned posted:Really, all you need to do to improve is to practice, practice, practice. You can only learn so much through feedback. This. Seriously, I had someone explain dry brushing, and basically, it took thirty Necrons before I got to the point that I did it right every time. And inking is something I just randomly tried at my last job. I know the basics, I had been reading painting techniques for a while. I tried it on some of the display models, and just had to practice a bunch before I got a handle on the basics. PVs formulas make me jealous as gently caress, though.
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2009 06:22 |
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GoodBee posted:I used to paint straight from the pot when I didn't know any better. It's not so bad when you open a fresh pot but the longer you paint straight from the pot, the thicker the paint gets. I used to pour water directly into the pots when I noticed them getting thick and thin my paint that way. Now I paint like a normal person. One of the guys who worked at my local GW used to thin his paints in the pot. Used to say it had just enough room to thin the paints right. I never really tried it to know. I'm terrible though and used to use paints straight from the pot. Though with my warmachine stuff I was particularly careful about making sure it looked good, I'll need to pull it out and see if I can find anything wrong with them. But my Warhammer necrons were all dry brushed. . . does it make a difference then?
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2009 18:00 |
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PaintVagrant posted:when the heck did i post that Anphrax posted it, dunno where he got your username from.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2009 18:24 |
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Chaos Emerald posted:I started putting a terminator chaplain together yesterday but I'm a bit confused about how to fit it on to the base. The one that came with it is solid but the figure has a long metal bit at the bottom that looks like it should fit into a slotted base. Do you have to cut your own slot out? I had a similar issue with Necron Wraiths (I HATE those models.), had to take a hobby knife to the bottom of the base where they had frames for slots underneath, just not precut.
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2010 17:14 |
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Hey guys, need opinions/direction. I've got 50 dollars expendable. I currently have NO supplies. Any recommended resources for purchasing them, and any must have items? I figure Citadel Washes in Badab and Devlan are going to be suggested.
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2010 19:16 |
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bhsman posted:Gale Force 9 Assault Template, Badab Black wash, Devlin Mud wash, Gryphonne Sepia Wash, and soap to wash the shame awayyyyyyyyyyyyyy... Yeah, I realized after the fact Gryphonne Sepia has been mentioned multiple times. That Assault Template is pretty awesome, too bad I'm looking to start playing things other than 40K. And when you say soap?
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2010 20:26 |
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Aranan posted:Starting from complete scratch? i.e. no brushes or palette or clippers or anything? All my supplies are lost at this point. I've got some Necrons and some unassembled Warmachine figs in easy to reach storage.
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2010 00:07 |
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So. . . I just found pictures of my necrons. . . God I need to thin my paints. Also get a good camera and a light box.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2010 05:41 |
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Gnoblar Scraplauncher says you're dead wrong. Can I put Necron Wraiths in the running?
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# ¿ Jan 21, 2010 01:08 |
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landis posted:Isn't that a minivan from the board game Life? Only four holes, not six, cause that was my first thought. Maybe Life JR?
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2010 23:40 |
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Dammit, Fix, I didn't need a reason to get back into 40K.
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2010 05:26 |
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I primed a couple models in white with the Reaper 'white primer' from the squeeze bottle. Sure, painting it one takes more time, but god it works.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2010 05:18 |
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:What if I tied both sides together via red? Red eyes, red belt, red knees? If you want something in the red family, I'd suggest orange of some degree. Burnt orange or something. Red and Green is too christmas.
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2010 17:40 |
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Fast_Food_Knight posted:One goon did an awesome airbrush rundown, I think it was Pagan or Cakefool but not too sure. I'm sure it got linked or saved somewhere too. I'm pretty sure it was in the Tale of Goon Wargamers thread, but I don't have archives so can't go find it.
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2010 20:07 |
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PaintVagrant posted:I just ordered one of those series 7 "miniature" brushes, with the shorter hairs. Ill post a trip report as soon as I get a chance to use it Can't wait, as they're a bit cheaper than the Series 7s.
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 17:56 |
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PaintVagrant posted:
You sure that darkest color isn't the brown, and the middle one on the brace is a mixture of the two?
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2010 17:11 |
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Dude. . . you awesome painting goons have ruined my tastes in shittily painted miniatures: http://teamcovenant.com/04/14/2010/moncon-exclusives-custom-repaints/
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2010 06:16 |
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dpack_1 posted:Whats the 'double action', its a gravity feed airbrush but what can it transform into for the 'other' action? Double action means it has two valves: one for air, one for paint.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2010 17:16 |
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Fix posted:Dude, it's a Skeksis, it can only be a good thing. http://goremasterfx.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/skeksis-the-dark-crystal.jpg
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2010 04:54 |
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So, looking over P3 Paints for eventual purchase, what is the difference between Menoth White, Menoth White Highlight, and Morrow White? Also, for Warmachine Cygnar, Purple base with green and gold accents and copper for what is normally 'gold' on the Cygnar at all doable?
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2010 18:52 |
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Bistromatic posted:Menoth White base is a dirty white, a bit similar to what you'd get as bone colour in most line, Menoth White Highlight is a warm off-white and Morrow White is pure white. So Morrow White is the one I want for mixing and Menoth Highlight is definitely better for highlighting most things. Also image for my considered paint scheme: I do own this set of dice, whether that is coincidence or not.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2010 19:02 |
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Feeple posted:I see what you're going for, but honestly, it sounds like it will end up looking like The Hulk. Which is why I'm going purple primary. EDIT: Though an Ol' Rowdy painted up like the Hulk could be a cool centerpiece. lighttigersoul fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Apr 21, 2010 |
# ¿ Apr 21, 2010 17:04 |
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Chenghiz posted:That header is way too busy. I'd do a flash rotating gallery thing, if you want photos of your stuff in the header. I'd just lower the number of models shown.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2010 19:37 |
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NecronSchmecron posted:PV, you are in the right business. Studio models like those have been replaced by CG (obviously). Believe me, my dreams were crushed by films switching to CG. Though I must admit GOOD CG models can fool me sometimes. I think the switch to CG is an overall loss for film, myself. Included is the lack of practical special effects. Not that this is on topic in the least, but studio models are loving awesome.
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# ¿ May 4, 2010 22:34 |
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:It kinda bugs me that some of the facing marks aren't facing the direction the models are, like the guy front and centre. Shouldn't his facing be the actual direction both his staff and face are pointing? I'm pretty sure the rules say it's based on the model's shoulders, but when you're rimming the bases, you have a less finicky way to measure, and then I guess whatever the modeler/painter says goes?
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# ¿ May 11, 2010 05:17 |
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Did they decide to bold at random? As often as they used the bold function, they're not really emphasizing anything. But drat, those look good.
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# ¿ May 11, 2010 16:50 |
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So. . . I am taking on a hobby project that I think I will regret, but I hope is totally awesome. Watching the Monsterpocalypse masters today, and the subject of dice towers came up. I'm thinking custom Monpoc dice towers would be wicked sweet, and now want to do it. God I'm crazy. . .
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# ¿ May 23, 2010 06:50 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Spray them lightly with matte varnish and then go to town, you can quickly touch up/shade/highlight pre-paints with minimal effort. I'm still tempted to say 'gently caress it' on the monpoc stuff and just paint the megas so they looks like they're glowing or something.
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# ¿ May 24, 2010 19:17 |
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stabbington posted:Alright, last time I post this poo poo until I take a picture of the entire finished army. Highlighting: stepped the gently caress up (I am even more in love with meredius blue than I am with coal black, a thing I had thought impossible). I am going to need to keep that blue highlight for black in mind, it looks awesome.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2010 17:27 |
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In the vein of posting our firsts: EDIT: Goddamn, top of page. . .
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2010 05:27 |
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Fooley posted:I'm just getting into 40K and I don't have a decent camera, so I'm using that as an excuse not to post my first model. I'm not...terribly ashamed of it. There's just a severe lack of detail (rivets, shading, etc) I could have done better on. I'm pretty sure as long as they're on their baseline sized base or larger, they're fine. Other folks know the base sizes better than me, but they're all standardized, so not really complex.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2010 05:47 |
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Skarsnik posted:chaos black, it'll work just fine, seriously I've used Reaper flat white for primer before. It was nice.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2010 02:23 |
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I'd say it looks like they airbrushed on those highlights. . . but poo poo, is it possible to get that type of control with an airbrush?
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2010 11:24 |
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Orktimus Prime?
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2010 04:35 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 00:22 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Hot drat. I'm so used to 40k decorum that I forgot how awesome futuristic poo poo can be. I'll agree with this mindset.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2010 17:36 |