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I've finally settled on a color scheme for my Tyranids, which I am shamelessly stealing from this awesome Trygon:  Unfortunately I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what colors, washes and so on are being used there, and I'd appreciate some help figuring it out as I'm having some trouble replicating it on my test models. It's the flesh areas that are giving me the most trouble, particularly the rich browns between the tendons, joints and exoskeletal ribs, and that peculiar shade of oyster white. My current best guess - currently untested until after Halloween when I have time to experiment again - as taken from my personal notes on how to paint this style: Carapace & Claws Main: 70 / 30 Chaos Black / Fortress Grey Carapace & Claws Highlight: Blood Red (red over black oh god) Flesh: Bleached Bone basecoat --> Ogryn Flesh wash --> Bleached Bone --> Off-White highlighting, Bestial Brown stripe on appropriate models Fleshy Bits: Dark Angel Green highlighted with Snot Green I'll see about getting pictures of the work-in-progress up for critique once the Battleforce arrives and I can get down to painting something more elaborate than Gaunts.
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Oct 31, 2009 00:30
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Nailed it, thanks BL. For anyone who's interested, the process is detailed in these threads. There only seems to be one snag: every Kraken guide seems to rely heavily on the now-discontinued Flesh Wash. Is there a decent substitute for that anywhere?
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Oct 31, 2009 07:01
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Does Simple Green remove products like DullCote, glosses, varnishes, MinWax and the like? If not, can anyone recommend something to safely strip those coverings from minis?
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Nov 1, 2009 19:53
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asbo subject posted:Another question- I saw some distilled water being sold in my LGS, is their any disadvantage of using tap water to thin paints? Too much water will break the bonds of the pigment and render it essentially useless. Water used in moderation works just fine, and my understanding is that some of the pros only use water to thin their paints. A fair number of others make use of various paint additives like Liquitex Flow Aid to thin paints without breaking the pigment bonds, improve adhesion and increase the drying time to make blending easier. Two of the more prominent additive blends are by Anne Foerster and Jen Haley, professional miniature painters for Reaper. Anne's Recipe: 80% Folk Art Extender (a fluid retarder, despite the name) 10% Windsor & Newton Flow Improver 10% Water Jen's Recipe: 25% Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder 25% Windsor & Newton Flow Improver 50% Water I'll admit I haven't tried either of them as no store within 100 miles of my house carries these products, but the internet loves them for whatever that's worth. Anyone have any experience with these or other additive mixes?
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Nov 7, 2009 22:52
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Fix, regarding those opalescent paints, how do you think the effect of, say, Volcano Red or something similar would look over FW Black? An insectile, "ant carapace with red highlights" look is what I'm working with on my Tyranids, and this stuff sounds like it has potential for that.
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Nov 21, 2009 18:16
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I submit for your consideration one Hive Fleet Kraken Termagant.    I'll admit right now that I'm not pleased with the way it turned out: the reds aren't nearly bright enough, the wash around the joints turned into a pale, chalky grey-brown from its original rich yellow-brown, the gloss coat for the carapace hasn't gone on yet, and there's dozens of tiny little mistakes that I didn't even notice until I took a good look at the pictures; the skin is probably the only thing I'm happy with -- it's actually a couple of shades closer to white than in these pictures. That said, it feels pretty decent for my first serious attempt at a tabletop-quality mini. The second generation of this guy is coming along better, but there's still a lot of room for improvement. For reference, this is generally what I was going for:  Any thoughts on how I can improve? For one thing, I need a basing scheme for this army. I have a few vague ideas for that, maybe something wetly organic or black ash / black sand scattered with crystals, but nothing has really clicked yet. Any thoughts on what would work with this scheme other than grass and dried plants? I'll also take any suggestions on how to pull this off more efficiently on an army-wide scale. The guide that I've been following was written back in '06, before the advent of Foundation colors and the death of Citadel inks, and the author hasn't done much experimenting since according to the correspondence I've had with him over on the Tyranid Hive.
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Nov 27, 2009 01:33
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Let's break away from wargaming minis for a moment. My father is a car buff, and he loves the look of this particular Bentley to death. I'm considering picking up a model kit for that car and painting it up for him as a Christmas present. Can I go about this with the materials and techniques I'm using for Warhammer minis, or do I need to invest in a bunch of new products and relearn everything? Edit: Here's the car. 
Kestral fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 20:56
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'Ardcoat Gloss might work for that. I slapped some on the Termagant I posted a few pages back, which has a carapace in almost those exact colors, and it looks about as glossy as that. I'm not entirely pleased with it because it's very, very glossy and doesn't look as organic as I'd like, but that might be what you're looking for. Sidenote: Anyone have a link to a good pinning tutorial and a list of quality pinning-related products? Judging by the pictures of the new Tyranid models, I'm going to be doing a lot of loving pinning.
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Dec 2, 2009 22:28
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Have any of you used Army Painter Desert Yellow or Daemonic Yellow spray primer? If so, how close are they to Citadel Bubonic Brown or VMC Plague Brown? My nids have a Bubonic Brown basecoat which, despite the name, is essentially the same dirty yellow as Yog-Sothoth's doomwheel banner, and I'd love to be able to spray that on.
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Dec 5, 2009 21:09
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Menoth White Highlight looks like a slightly whiter Bleached Bone to me, which means it has Tyranid applications. PV, do you mind sharing what you usually use for a nice off-white bone color like the lighter areas of those goreous Nurgle marines you did a while back?
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Dec 12, 2009 22:40
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Sole.Sushi posted:I'll post photos of work in progress soon, but if anyone has suggestions or advice from working with snow bases before, I'd love to hear it. Thought for a potentially neat base: use Water Effects or something similar to simulate the snow melting from the heat of their flamers and other heavy weaponry. Hell, maybe you can even get steam, though I have no idea how you'd pull that off.
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Dec 14, 2009 08:44
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Sole.Sushi posted:That thing is pretty expensive. It might be worth it if you built a diorama for the army (or a particularly impressive squad), drilled some fine holes in the terrain, then embedded the smoke generator beneath it such that the "smoke" filters up through the holes around the models. Goddamnit, now I may have to do this.
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Dec 14, 2009 21:06
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Cool idea though.
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lighttigersoul posted:Ya know, you could also do a piece of terrain that is hot springs, imagine the look on people's face when you put that on the table. Steaming hot springs in a snow-covered piece of terrain, with twisting spires of icy rock or frozen alien flora all around, the ground ruptured by jagged mineral protrusions. Hot drat. This could be a fun project.
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Dec 14, 2009 21:35
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Z the IVth posted:Size comparison with some PP, Infinity and GW stuff. What was your process for the urban base you ended up with? Love the shattered pavement and the effect as a whole.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:37
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Broken Loose posted:Scything talons as fex legs looks dumb because they weigh 14 tons and the talons are super thin. They have hooves because nothing else can hold them up. Giant spiderbeasts with spiked tarsi are a classic sci-fi element for a reason: they look awesome.
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Dec 24, 2009 06:03
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My Warstore order finally arrived after being lost in the mail since Thanksgiving, bringing me a Hive Tyrant and Lictor kit. I've never worked with metal before, so I thought I'd inquire here before I get to work: is there anything I should know about modeling / painting metal as opposed to plastic?
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Dec 31, 2009 21:29
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Le Saboteur posted:I've read you should most definitely thin Citadel foundation paints when doing any painting, but what about just the regular Citadel Color paints should those be thinned as well? Absolutely. Thin to the consistency of whole milk as a general rule. Dropper bottles are helpful for this purpose.
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Feb 9, 2010 21:33
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 10:45 |
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I'm having some trouble figuring out how to paint the boneswords for my Tyranid Warriors and Swarmlord. Standard Hive Fleet Kraken scything talons are black with increasingly "hot" red highlights along these lines: The standard bonesword conversion essentially reverses the talon, creating a curving, scimitar-like blade. I rather like this look, but I want to do something interesting with the paint-job to represent the fact that these aren't just scything talons turned upside-down: they're power weapons that "crackle with psychic energy" and rip the life force right out of you. Any ideas?
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Feb 10, 2010 23:58
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