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I've just gotten back into painting tiny angry men after several years haitus - was hoping people could recommend me a few things on a budget. A paint thinner and a paint retarder. I've heard glycerin works well for the later, if someone could confirm or deny that, but I have no idea for the former. I'm so jealous of most of the photos in this thread; I'm only 50 pages in reading the whole thread but the stuff that I've seen posted is phenomenal.
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Jul 10, 2011 00:44
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I have a little blog going about my miniature painting/artwork. Does anyone in the thread mind if I put some examples of their work in my inspirations section? Credited to whoever painted it, obviously. You guys do such great stuff I want to show the people who read my crappy blog that you are the guys I'm most jealous of! Edit: Wtf is a blod? Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Jul 18, 2011 |
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Jul 18, 2011 22:24
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Can you link us to the blog? Edit: What the hell, could get some critique while I'm building it about presentation and such. DISCLAIMER: I am only using a blog to help myself track how I do, share the cool stuff I've found, to help make me paint consistently. I do not think of myself as some super artist. Please don't mock me for starting a blog when I paint like a child  http://lethemonster.blogspot.com/ Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jul 19, 2011 |
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Jul 19, 2011 00:14
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So I've been making loads of resources and I remember someone earlier in the thread mentioning one of the things I have actually made! It's colour layering sheets. Starting with a 1/6th paint mix I put down 8 stripes of paint, then when that had dried I added another layer to the 7 on the right, then another layer to the 6 on the right, and so on. I've also done it for chaos black, skull white, and tamiya white primers. Currently putting those together though because cutting out hundreds of 50 pixel squares is surprisingly time consuming. I've also got more colours to add to them as I don't have all my paints with me. I was aiming to make these useful when deciding what primers, basecoats and colours to use depending on what type of paint schemes I want. I thought it might help other people too. When the black one goes up alot of people will be able to see what a huge difference having white or black primer will actually make!  One on black primer too; 
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 17:41
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Fix posted:Hey, that's pretty cool. I could provide a strip at each end of just the pure paint; people could compare what it looks like to their flat paint. Otherwise it should still work as a rough reference for priming/basecoating and complimentary colours, and also original and progressive opacity of paints. I put too much thought into painting tiny men. Waiting for 8 layers of paint to dry has won the award of least fun thing I've ever done in my life - never make these yourself 
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 18:12
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I've hit a horrible block in my painting. I've just finished the cloaks on five sisters of battle - (Apologise for lovely pictures I'm not near a proper camera for a couple of weeks)  And I have no idea how to paint the rest of them. My brain is completely stumped. I did have plans but I tried it on one and it looked awful. Now I'm thinking about painting their torsos white. When you guys have filled in/finished a large portion of your model, how do you avoid paint from progessive painting getting on to it? Or do you paint everything up to the same standard as you go? These are the first models I've painted properly so any advice, no matter how stupid, is welcome.
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Jul 25, 2011 20:31
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Ashcans posted:Muffet, you're a crazy motherfucker. But you're right about green and white. With gold trim, that would look pretty boss: Muffet some of your posts are both scary and amazing. Great, now I'm going to end up with the worlds most mismatched army! I want to try it out on my grey knights too but I have a mental block on painting them anything other than grey.
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Jul 26, 2011 14:35
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I bought some series 7 brushes today and just realised that they are nickel plated - which I'm allergic to. Anything anyone can think of that I can cover it up with without risking ruining the brush - bearing in mind its going to be dipper in paint, water, and spirits. Also found a shop that sells Vallejo paints and grabbed a bunch. Super excited to use those soon. Spent half an hour stripping metal sisters with fairy power spray, spent an hour and a half cleaning the bath I did it in. With a toothbrush. Inhaling power spray. Fuuuuuunnnn evening.
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Jul 27, 2011 21:51
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Thanks guys. I figured tapping would be the way to go but kinda hoped there might be a more elegant solution. In other news for UK goons - Halfords white primer is the poo poo. So much nicer to use and paint on than citadel, at about half the price with regular sales. Comes off just as easily when stripped too. The main difference I noticed was that you can spray much lighter with it without disrupting the flow of paint. With citadel I couldn't get a spray that didnt waste alot when using a new can, without going into dribbly spitty paint territory. Much more control with halfords, much less paint wasted. A whiter colour and more uniform coverage. Comes in multiple colours too. I keep my paints in a draw with dividers in; my labrador has discovered she can pick a paint pot up and move it into the adjacent square. I've been watching her do this delicately for hours, moving paint pots from one side to the other and it's getting in the way of my painting. Occasionally she'll run off with a paint pot to try and eat it because she likes the taste of acrylic, and when I run to get that she sprints back to steal a half painted model to lick 
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Jul 28, 2011 11:10
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Ashcans posted:Your dog is feeling neglected because you spend too much time on miniatures. Take a half-hour break and play with her, ok? Alternatively, break out the plasticard and armor her up as a counts-as Squiggoth. YES
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Jul 28, 2011 15:22
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Is there any difference between normal acrylic paints and the ones we use on miniatures? Any different ingredients etc? I keep going into Hobbycraft and staring at the giant tubs of acrylic paint then scuttling off with my tiny £2.30 pot of citadel paint. There's so many more colours as well... And oils - I saw the guy doing his wet blending tutorial with the white oil paint where it showed up fantastically. Does he only get away with this because he's putting it on such a small area or does it work ok in general?
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Aug 2, 2011 21:18
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I actually wear my boyfriends gas mask respirator he got from the army. When it comes to priming and spraying there is really no length you shouldn't go to to protect your lungs! Thank you for the awesome advice guys. I was trying to find ingredient lists so I could compare everything properly (whoo a use for my chemistry degree!) but they don't seem to be available anywhere. I'm going to be doing a set of paint stripper tests soon on a metal and plastic model each, thus far I have; Fairy power spray, dettol, simple green, oven cleaner, acetone, castrol super clean. Any other readily available paint melty things I've missed there? Edit: Yeah I'm slowly dragging the safety sheets out of things but god looking at them all day in a lab means coming home to look at some more makes me want to cry. I just want a pretty list 
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 09:42
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'Well I've nearly finished. Should just take an hour to touch everything up then I'm done!' 'Oh my god why does doing the final touches take twice as long as actually doing it?! I never want to paint again' So close to finishing my first ever five models.... urgh! Edit: Finished, after cutting a few corners. Aaannndd... my camera has stopped working. I have no idea how long. Three days, maybe four doing a couple of hours a day. Next lot should be faster now I know what I'm doing though. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 20:06
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Dominion posted:I hear people badmouth Citadel brushes a lot, and with the older brushes that's warranted. But it seems they have switched to Kolinsky sable for their newer brush line. Are those still terrible? It seems like they should be decent, and the prices are on par with other sable brushes (S7, Raphael, whatever). I got the two detail brushes. The smallest detail brush was garbage - couldn't hold a point, couldnt hold paint, only has literally 4 hairs left in despite being looked after carefully. The normal detail brush I quite like - it's good for basecoating and doing medium-small areas. It holds its point ok when it's loaded with paint but you will have to remake it every 5-6 brushstrokes. Or at least that's how mine are. With citadel who knows what bearing this has on any other brush!
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Aug 9, 2011 17:23
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I would appreciate it if a couple of people could take a peak at this compilation of useless links I compiled and tell me if I'm missing any good ones http://lethemonster.blogspot.com/p/links.html I think I've got all the main ones, but every so often someone pops up with an obscure gem! Edit; added terrain fx! Those pieces look really nifty, I shall be ordering some. Edit2; Finally got some pictures of my first finished models ever!     
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Aug 10, 2011 |
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Aug 10, 2011 10:50
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sassassin posted:My first models would have been 200% better than they were if washes had existed back then. Haha yeah washes are a god send. You can get so much easy definition and blending with them! I'm definitely going to be making my own Devlan mud-esque one when i finish my pot of actual devlun mud because I go through it so fast it would be worth buying the stuff to make my own batches! I'm dissapointed I couldn't get their pupils done though, they look like the five-blind-orks. I heard people use micron pens but I'm completely broke at the moment so all my future orks are gonna have some serious occular problems. Harlequins I would freaking love to see someone do black/white/orange harlequins. Tie it together with the teal and cream anchoring like he said and they would look amazing!
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Aug 10, 2011 19:38
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Why don't you guys just buy normal artists inks and washes? There's hundreds of those. I keep meaning to pick up some Dayler-Rowney white to try checkers on my orks.
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Aug 10, 2011 21:50
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:What I used to do was paint the eye yellow, then lay some Baal Red in there. Warbosses and sometimes Nobs would get the red painted on. Orks be tripping. Yeah if you're new making washes would be a bit daunting but some of you appear to have been painting for a couple of centuries  Anyone here used iridescent medium on there models? I picked up a tub randomly the other day and I'm trying to think of actual uses for it now. Gonna slather it everywhere in the name of investigation first! Skarsnik posted:Need some advice off someone who understands colour theory or something.. Tiny bits of moss around the cracks and maybe a little blue tinge to the colour of some of the stones would look awesome as well. Really deep coloured moss.
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Aug 11, 2011 10:10
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Dragonforge base its going on..
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richyp posted:Isn't iridescent medium for watercolour paint? Ive got Galleria matt and gloss mediums and they are great too, and a great price for how much you get vs how much you need to use. Picked up the iridescent to complete my set and because Im a magpie who cant resist spangly things. Im getting some really good worn/damage/rusty looks using it with non-silver metalics. Its got a really good texture to it as well that suits anything metal really well too. I would like some critique of my next lot of orks' current skin tones. They are on their second variation thus far, the first being this - which I found to much for my liking at the moment  So I washed it with asurmen blue and then highlighted and shaded it again (Washed)   (Highlighted and shaded)    I apologise for poor picture quality but I'm a vampire and can't hold a model in direct sunlight. I really like all three stages looking at them now, but I think what I've got now is the best... I'm not sure though. Was wondering what you guys thought and also how I could improve it in general. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 16:24
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WhiteOutMouse posted:They look good to me. I love high contrast ork skin. Not a big fan of the dark green blended with darker green, but there are also great examples of that too. No, but I've taken up drawing and acrylics normally at the moment too because I have half a year off uni and nothing to do! Trying to take decent photos of the tiny buggers is the most annoying things in the world. But orks are quite easy I think, in comparison to other models. I have elves and sisters lying around that I painted a couple of bits on and then just went 'argh you're face is too small!' and cast them aside. I cant paint the models put together because I get too annoyed not being able to paint their armpits properly or whatever part doesn't matter I quite like the high contrast now, I think I'll do my next batch like it. And for some useful information, I picked up some of the Winsor and Newton Galleria brushes a couple of weeks ago by accident for some reason thinking they were sable (I read good). They are actually really nice brushes. They hold paint really well, their point, have good snap, and haven't curled at all. Really good for doing fine work with metallics if you don't want to risk more expensive brushes. Far far nicer than any other synthetics, especially games workshop. Their red sable brushes, however, were a surprising let down. They came all nice and pointy with protectors on. Whipped them out, got some paint on them, watched them explode into a dandelion of bristles. Couldn't get a point on them to save my life. But very good for base coating larger areas because they do still hold paint nicely and surprisingly don't leave brush marks if your paint is thinned properly. Think they'll be very useful for tanks and they are less than £10 for 3. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Aug 12, 2011 |
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Aug 12, 2011 11:08
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Dominion posted:Yeah, red is just balls over black, dude. You aren't doing anything wrong. Your options are thin and it takes forever, or go buy a pot of GW Mechrite Red. Covers in 1, maybe 2 coats over black, even thinned, and then you can put whatever red you want over that. It can also be worth trying one of the lighter colour opaque foundation paints. IIRC mechrite red is still transparent like most normal red paints? I have better luck with one of the stoney foundations then mechrite red/dark red.
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Aug 12, 2011 23:05
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Kasonic posted:Well after seeing the responses I ran out and grabbed some Reaper Master HD paints which are basically the same concept and they're amazing. Thanks guys. You dont just need to use red washes over red areas - the coloured washes also can be used to give more interesting shading effects than just brown/black. I used blue and red to shade my orks and it gave the colours much more depth and blending than just a straight devlan would. What other colours are on your model?
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Aug 13, 2011 10:34
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Dominion posted:Small transitions between colors is key. Also remember that it isn't going to look smoothly blended from close up unless your wet blending, which you definitely are not at this stage. Instead you're doing layers of successive shades, as many as you feel the insanity to do. It fools the eye into seeing highlights from a normal distance, like a Monet painting. Highlighting blue with layering can be a bitch because the paint has very high opacity. You might find it more fun (at least I did) to learn thin edge highlighting first http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=400028&pIndex=1&aId=6500052a&multiPageMode=true&start=2 But otherwise the key is, the more gradual your transition between colours and the smaller the gaps between your layer changes the better it will look, but the trade of for this is more layers = more time. Blue is a difficult one, but when you finally get it it does look very good. In addition if you have any washes that can help with your highlighting - by shading the deeper parts of the marine you will end up with a better contrast/more colour transition up to your highlights than just your base blue colour. Since your zipping along learning to paint you might also like doing feathering; http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1273 I find this one quite easy and tend to get a better affect with blue than with layering. I'm trying to think of ways you can do something other than edge highlighting without sacrificing loads of paint... hmm... I hope this is useful but if I've got something screwed up someone just point it out. I'm currently high on antibiotics, codeine and nasal spray so who knows what kindof advice I'm really channeling.
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Aug 13, 2011 14:40
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So tomorrow I'm going to be finishing off my second batch of orks. Was wondering if there was anything people thought I could improve or fix either next time I paint or when I finish them tomorrow.     I uhh... You know, I think I forgot something important on a couple of the models. I can't work out what though! Also starting trying to make my own bases  I've washed them since, and although they look great it takes loads of wash to do. Can peeps recommend what inks to get to make my own washes equivalent to the GW colours (Most notably Devlan Mud) or any that would make awesome colour washes in their own right?
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Aug 15, 2011 22:52
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So uhh... I got bored, and all I had was a scalpel and some lolly sticks. And a steel ruler, cutting mat, primer and my whole painting collection. This is what I eneded up with! I'm pleased with it as a first effort  Only thing I've ever made! Apart from a keyring I made once in Design Tech ten years ago...   I'm quite proud of it, it came out surprisingly well considering I didn't plan it before I started it!
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Aug 17, 2011 22:22
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dexefiend posted:
Really like this so far. You could paint him in the silver version of the gold knight someone did a page or so back. Break up some of the colour by painting the cloth under the armour/between sections a really deep dark green, then add detailing like the wrap on the handle/bits of decoration in a dark red/shades of brown. Keep it darker than the eyes but still visibly red and it should look really cool.
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Aug 18, 2011 09:47
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I discovered a little shop today in Reading centre that sells warmachine and hordes, amongst other thing, as well as Vallejo Game Colour and P3 paints. But most importantly - they sell all the microarts studio stuff. I'm now convincing my friends they want to buy fancy microart studio bases for me to paint for them. Does anyone have a good resource for painting wood? I've made a shack out of lolly sticks and so on, and a few things out of balsa wood but can't actually paint it to look any good.
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Aug 22, 2011 19:27
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I got the Vallejo liquid gold paints - has anyone used them before? I'm having trouble with the fact that shaking them doesn't help with the fact all the actual paint is at the bottom. I keep having to mush the end of my paint brush in their each time, but I'm wasting loads each time I do. Also any tips on when to use matte/gloss/glazing mediums? I need to stop being such a gadget freak and buying stuff before I learn to use everything I've got :ohnoes:
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Aug 29, 2011 14:07
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stabbington posted:Get a toothpick or similar to stir them with instead of shaking, you'll waste a lot less that way, and keep yourself from ruining brushes in the process. Thin/clean up with alcohol as needed, obviously. Thank you! I made a thing   Having trouble painting my wood to look like wood but I'm happy with my shack made from slats of brown atm.
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Aug 29, 2011 20:07
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I have finally realised I just don't really like sisters of battle anymore. Really been cramping my ability to paint. Time to strip and photo 100+ models *sigh*. Going to look for some better sculpted things to paint. Anyone had any anima tactics or the mantic games sets and can say anything about their build quality?
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Aug 30, 2011 18:10
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Well I've gotten all my warhammer stuff together and not only do I have masses of stuff unpainted and out, I have a rather large amount still in their blister packs. I was wondering if it was ok for me to write down what I've got here and offer it to people a little bit cheaper, before I put it on ebay? Thought it would be nice to give the UK goons first dibs.
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Aug 31, 2011 17:01
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thespaceinvader posted:So, primers: I have painting gear (and 2 Kolinsky sable brushes). I have a mini to paint which is already primed black and part-painted, but I'm probably going to take a pop at stripping it. What I don't have is a spray primer. I know I've heard some people saying that a basic spray primer is fine, and I'm thinking a mid-grey would suit me better than black or white. Is something like this reasonable? I really like using halfords automobile primers, they come in white black and grey too. Not tried plasticoat as I wasn're sure if I could strip it ok. And you want the brown antiseptic dettol. Buy the 750ml one if you can, it's a hell of a lot cheaper /100ml than the other size dettol antiseptic.
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Sep 4, 2011 22:36
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Some C&C would be appreciated. Had my first go at making bases. Apart from the obvious gaps round the edges where the pva contracted while drying, I would like some help making these look better/more realistic.   
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Sep 5, 2011 13:05
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PierreTheMime posted:Firstly, I really like to cobblestone look you have going. As for help with the base itself, you may have you add some glue and sand to the base in addition to rocks before you add the grass, intentionally making some areas slightly higher than others using the thickness of the glue. This will give it a more natural uneven look you'd see in a field. This is actually exactly what I did, but I didn't push it before getting C&C because I figured I could add more if it needed it but have yet to develop a paint eraser. I pushed the dry brushing a bit more and it looks better for the most part. Thanks Pierre the Mime  I'm still not sure about how to make the grass itself look more like... grass. I have a variety of different flocks but none of them actually come out looking like grass. I did however pick up some bark from around the base of the trees in my garden however, and combined with some bits of stick have managed to make some really good stone and tiny log/wood bases. I'm not sure why people buy resin impressions of simple slate/rock bases instead of just doing it themselves?
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Sep 5, 2011 21:39
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MasterSlowPoke posted:What did you use for those cobblestones? I found some miniature coal in my toolbox. I poured out a small pile and used ones of a similar height and size glued down with pva. Then I filled across the top so it was an even surface. I used a rough metal file so the stones got a nice used, rough texture.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:07
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Got some properly matte varnish this time: I love the overall paint job but what really catches my eye is how nice your base is! I love the paint job on the floor, you've gotta give up how you did that sometime! And onto rubbish - I tried heavier and more layers of drybrushing on this set to see if it made them look more interesting. C&C?      Also tried wood, both whole trunks and random bits. Think the colours turned out ok but I don't know if it's 'enough' for miniatures.
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Sep 6, 2011 19:25
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PierreTheMime posted:I'm really not sure how much more you need/want. I mean, they're 28mm miniatures. I suppose if you're making them all one-offs to be master-painted beauties for display you could slave over them to add additional detail, but from table-level that's beyond standard tabletop quality. If you plan on making 60-120 of these for standard models for gaming, worrying that much over your bases will drive you to the depths of madness (or at the very least have you sitting at a table for weeks working on them). I likes em as-is. The textured materials could probably have slightly higher definition with an application of wash, but otherwise it's all just a matter of your own personal satisfaction. Ah that's what I meant - it always seems to me that highlights and drybrushing are done to stand out more than I always think they would if things weren't... tiny. I'll try another wash see if it gives it more woody pizzaz. And I will be doing this for every model because it's so much fun... and all my friends models... and then I will make even more bases and send them to strangers. I don't actually play the game I just like painting stuff and making tiny pretend trees
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 20:06
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Not a viking posted:Thats what I heard as well. Does it work better if I mix in white paint or use dull coat? It's probably due to oxidation over time, so if you can seal the surface of the soda it would probably stay white. Alternatively - never eat yellow snow? If you want really nice just settled snowy snow I find mixing in a bit of glitter glue does wonders. Find one with a really fine glitter in it (white, obviously. ) and you'll get the effect as when snow is new and all shimmery/pretty. :3
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Sep 7, 2011 12:55
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Red Herring posted:Pics Pics of WIPs WIPs. Really really like your wood! But otherwise maybe some pictures taken in light would help people see what you've done?
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Sep 7, 2011 17:09
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Well see I just got bored and I had some matt medium... and then the retarder came along and it just fell into my paint I swear! But guys I... I wet blended - succesfully Got some swanky looking dark eldar with wet blended cloaks! I'm too excited to wait for day to add pictures, I'll have to edit them in tomorrow. Those of you who use wet blending, how thin do you have your paints? I found I had to have mine a bit thicker than the whole semi-skim milk idea. I'm not sure if I want to be working towards doing it with thinner paints to get better pay off in the end - I tried with it thinned a bit more today and it was a bitch to get any paint to stay on any ridges to be blended. I went to games workshop for over an hour, came back and my paints were still wet in the palette too.
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Sep 8, 2011 20:23
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