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MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Aranan posted:

I am interested in doing a limited color scheme. Black armor with black clothing (and silver/gold detailing but whatev). The only thing I'm worried about is making the armor and clothing look different. I guess I could just count on the sculpts being enough to show the difference between baggy pants or armor plating, but I'm not sure if that would be enough.

I'm trying to figure out how this guy pulled it off. It kind of looks like he just highlighted the pants more than the armor and did it in a softer, somewhat blended way as opposed to the hard edge highlighting on the armor. Does that sound about right?

I believe using a light brown like Kommando Khaki or Bleached Bone is also good for making black fabrics look more "fabric-y". I'm not sure this is the technique used, but I thought I'd put it out there.

Also, to contribute, my Master of the Arsenal:









I know I should have thinned my paint a bit more, especially white. And my camera doesn't like macrophotography.

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MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

well they look like complete rear end


Click here for the full 1024x422 image.


I hosed up with the tape I guess, that or I sprayed too close or too far away, I dunno. Should I start over, fix it by hand or tape off again and try it again?

That was never going to work with just tape. Masking on corrugated surfaces sucks. You could use blu-tac, but it would be difficult to get your lines straight.



Warhammer: Pull on the base and not the mini itself

What do you do with magnetising slottabases? One little magnet on each side?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


PierreTheMime posted:

That red bone has to be from something. This is a fun game--find the random boardgame bitz!

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


LewdMonocle posted:

Lastly; loving around with scrap models.

Click here for the full 1000x502 image.


That centre model is loving wierd. What are those models, and why do you have so many of them?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


PaintVagrant posted:





This. That librarian's eyes are awesome, and a little bit scary.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Yog-Sothoth posted:



There's some rules, I got some rules when I show down and I do my standup, I got rules and poo poo. Faggots aren't allowed to look at my rear end while I'm on stage! That's why I keep moving while I'm up here.

You don't know where the human being section is, you gotta keep movin'.
So if they do see it, quick, you switch, they don't get no long stares at your poo poo

so that their imagination is flowing about my

I know when you're looking, 'cos my rear end starts to get hot.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

green with lightning if you can. It'll offset everything else.

Seconding this. Blue or turquoise won't stand out enough from the power armour.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


I'd definitely replace the legs, I can't stand those fourpack knees. Also file off the blood drop gems, purity seals, possibly the scrollwork too.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Zarkov Cortez posted:

You could always just take a little gs and fill in the grooves.

The lower leg "muscles" also look pretty bad too. Easier to just swap completely.

PaintVagrant posted:

I like the collar/cuff on that armor a lot

This.

Also just noticed the lightning effect on the official painted models. Best lightning effect

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Zarkov Cortez posted:



We have a winne-

Zarkov Cortez posted:



Wait. Holy fu-

Zarkov Cortez posted:







(Top one is best farseer I've seen.)

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


e; /\/\/\/\/\ http://www.freewebs.com/grimdarkness/painterprogram.htm


!amicable posted:



Is that supposed to be verdigris? Why is that vindicator made of copper?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Fyrbrand posted:



fukkkkkk

Requesting more open-topped Ork dreads

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


I think if you cut behind his left knee and brought the calf back toward him a bit, that would fix the stance problem.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


PaintVagrant, just noticed a couple of things on your new site.

1. Under Basing Products, the basic kit has 2 drop-down menu options for static grass, but the description says you only get one.

2. Small typo under Commissions in the Display description:

quote:

Included:
- assembly/paint
- ballast/static grass/barbed wire/water effects/etc, or a resin base of your choice from the warstore/wherever I order your model. When I order the model, Ill order the bases if I donít already own them.
(Should be I'll.)

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


yum posted:

Not really sure on the base either.

I'd probably go with a desert base. Fits with the whole Egypt-esque Thousand Son thing, and would also contrast the dark blue.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Can I get some tips on painting OSL? I've got a good idea for this month's Irongob ingredient, but I'm afraid I won't be able to pull it off.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


!amicable posted:

What is it exactly?

It's a pretty easy effect. Just paint whatever hue you want getting darker as you get further from the source. Keep the source really bright and small/sharp. As you get further make the color darken and get "blurrier".

Generally, if you can draw a straight line from the source to any surface, it will have some light hitting it from that source.

Thanks for the advice, PV too. I want to do a welding laser, so the beam would be the source.

What if I want to do OSL on metallic surfaces (not NMM)? Should I just paint solid "light" straight over it, or should I blend it/give it some transparency? Or is this a bad idea?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Maybe I should just do the laser without the OSL. At least until I do some practise. Perhaps I'll model some sparks instead.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil




Place the wet brush along the "Line of Heart" on your hand.

Slightly cup your hand.

While gently turning the brush, pull it out of the crease.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


e: /\/\/\ That sword must be heavy.

Manifest posted:

This is a GREAT color scheme. I may do something similar with my Space Hulk nids.

I haven't painted my Space Hulk models either, simply because I can't decide on a scheme for the 'nids. I've been considering using mica or some of that interference paint on their carapaces. Has anyone done something similar?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


tendrilsfor20 posted:

Is there like a training school for painting? I went through the OP of the warhammer thread, but 50% of the links are dead. A friend pointed me at like a $25 kit from Games Workshop that has like 6 paints and 3 figures to mess around with and get a feel for painting before I go ordering my own little ships.

Don't get the starter kit from GW. They're overpriced for what you get (average brushes, bad paint). If you're painting Firestorm Armada models, you shouldn't really need a huge range of colours to start with. I'd have a look at some paint schemes online and decide on what you want, then get those colours. You can always expand your range later.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


I don't think I've ever seen such smooth pink before, particularly on the three large models. Nice.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil




Storm trooper best trooper.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


iirc the traditional scheme is Fortress Grey with Rotting Flesh stripes (blended where they meet, probably doable with drybrushing).



Found this little gem when looking for some info:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforu...ist/236631.page

This guy used Iyanden Darksun and Snakebite Leather for his infantry coats. He also does some awesome modelling.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Fix posted:

I was just thinking that, but I imagine it'd probably leave me with a sticky, fabricky mess. Not to mention it'd probably go a long way to alleviate the whole "quick" part of the project. But I guess quick looks crap in the long run.

I'm wondering if just throwing down something of the appropriate scale (sand, trash) would help.

No, probably not if the problem is fake depth, huh? It'd just mean grit floating over not-lower grout.

Edit: hahaha quick and cheap. $1.75 for floor tiles, sixteen bucks of GW bases ruined. GG,GW.

Yeah, looks like cut up lino to me. The "grout" is waaaaay too wide for it to look like real masonry. Maybe if you cut up the "tile" parts into actual little tiles, and lay them in patterns or something?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

I've been wondering about this stuff, too. What's a good use for it?

An antique ceramic effect. Best example is Chris Clayton's Ultramarine from the 2009 UK Golden Demon Open Category (the white armour).



Average score on CMON: 9.9

WIP here

edit: WIP Part 2

MaliciousOnion fucked around with this message at 06:53 on May 17, 2010

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

Oh I know all about this one. I'll give it a shot on my soul grinder maybe. Thanks

If you can get the crackle to work (apparently it can be a bitch, so I'd probably do a few tests first), a Chaos machine of some sort would probably be the best possible way to use this effect.

(I really hope you do this.)

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Tentacle Party posted:

Still, the guy is a winner because drat he has some skill.

Not to mention time and money.

S.J. posted:

And IIRC the guy who beat him painted loving woodgrain at 28mm. He deserved the win.

It's hard to seen any woodgrain on the posted pics, but that tree looks pretty detailed. Twigs!

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

if it had been a cool chapter (anything but ultramarines) we wouldn't be having this conversation

GW had a huge hard-on for Ultramarines around that time. Not that it makes it OK.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Sole.Sushi posted:

This.
Also compare them.
The Ultramarine doesn't really tell a story. He seems oddly placid, serene. Grimdark it is not, but it is still a triumph of technical skill.
The Clockmaker isn't a dynamic pose, but it tells a story of sorts: why the huge gun? What's up with all the scrolls and books? Why does his face look so grizzled and worn? It says something about the character. The Ultramarine just says "Hey, I killed a gaunt. Good for me."

The Ultramarine is supposed to be chillin' after the fight. While the pose isn't dynamic, I doubt that it would be the reason it didn't win. For me, it's the unnatural look of the face that ruins it.

I guess you could also say that most of the techniques he used (salt masking, crackle effect, metalcote, etc) don't actually require a great amount of skill compared to more traditional layering techniques present in the gold winner. Still, that loving banner...

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

how the gently caress do I do that on a goddamn trygon you psychopath

http://www.liquitex.com/Products/paintinterference.cfm

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Tactical Bonnet posted:

Maybe consider raising the whole thing off the base with one of those clear rod things and make both of the legs a bit more extreme, so it's way more obvious that he's flying.

Right now it just kind of looks like you're going to put something under his raised leg for his foot to rest on.

It looks like the model could be descending to the ground. If it's supposed to be taking off, I'd lean the torso forward, and perhaps the whole model too.


I think I've found an insignia for my SM chapter:


Original:


It's an old Roman legion symbol, which ties in to the look I'm going for. What's the best way to print it as decals?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


bhsman posted:

You better not be going for a mostly-black overall scheme or else it looks like you're going for Not-Raven Guard

My colour scheme is dark red with white shoulders, so I didn't want to have a red insignia too.



Sole.Sushi posted:

On decal paper, of course.

I was more wondering if there's certain brands to use/avoid or other things I should know.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Tentacle Party posted:

You know you want to freehand those, don't you.

Okay now you have an insignia, what about chapter name? And commander?

Legio Romanusborn?

Unlike you, I suck at freehand. Check out the "TERRA" on that model I just posted. Apparently my chapter employs 4-year old scribes.

Speaking of Terra, I was thinking Praetors of Terra for the chapter name (trying to go for a real Roman theme here). Vinco Prognatus for the Chapter Master?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


moths posted:

Don't bother freehanding SM logos unless you're only doing one squad or you do that poo poo professionally.

I picked up the Testor's decal system, which basically lets you print your own decals onto special paper. I haven't been able to try it out yet (I'm doing Relictors) because you need an ink jet printer and I haven't dug mine out of storage.

I'm pretty sure you can get away with just buying the special paper and using future clear acrylic.

Still, it's only . I anticipate having to do some touch-up work, but it's better than trying to freehand logos.

Thanks. I might do some freehand on larger areas (banner), but yeah, gently caress doing it to the 25-odd models I have so far.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Crossposting from the Oath thread.






Seriously, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The drybrushing is a bit messy in places, but I can live with it.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Laser-welding or something...

edit: How the gently caress are you supposed to highlight beams of light?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


If I wanted to make a hill bunker type thing, what would be a good material to use for the "hill" part? I was thinking either foam or some sort of clay/epoxy. I'm guessing foam would be ideal, but I don't know how hard it is to work with, particularly if I'm going to be putting doors and such in it. And I'm guessing clay/epoxy would be a bit expensive for something as big as a hill. Perhaps a combination of the two?

Thoughts/suggestions?

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


Bachtere posted:

I also got a couple of boxes of the River Trolls. Awesome set.

I assume this is for vomitmarine?

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MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


The sponged bits look a little uniform, but I'm only saying this to feel better about my own inferiority (never stop PV )

Fix posted:

So I'm flipping through an Imperial Armo(u)r book, and looking at how they do all kinds of filters to the pictures they put in there to get all cool and stuff, saturation and grain and whatnot. Anyone here do that with their models? Seems like something that might be an interesting distraction from the same old same old of the modeling thread.

Or not, I don't know. Anyone else care to play along? Can you talk with expertise about what you did to get your model shots to pop?

MaliciousOnion fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jun 3, 2010

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