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Fyrbrand posted:I read a GW masterclass article on painting Chakax, I think that has a tutorial for marble. It's on the website in the painting articles. Because GW is a bitch to find stuff on ( search engine), here's the relevant details: quote:2) Star-Stone Mace. Keith wanted the Star-Stone Mace to look like an untypical weapon, so he painted it with an impressive marbled effect. To do this he started with a basecoat of Scorched Brown mixed 50/50 with Codex Grey. Into this he mixed Bleached Bone for the next layer, adding a little more Bleached Bone into each successive stage. The veins on the marble were painted with Adeptus Battlegrey, and then glazed over with a couple of watery layers of Bleached Bone to blend the veins back into the marble. Lastly Keith gave the Star-Stone Mace some more glazes using watered-down washes, one of Thraka Green and Leviathan Purple, concentrating on the recesses.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2010 00:28 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 16:38 |
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FractionMan posted:Yeah, that's something I have planned already. I also think I'll combine the two ramps into one large one (and cut it down to a shorter length), if it'll allow me. Someone in the other thread mentioned the cab could be raised a bit, so I'll put some plasticard under it to do that. I'd be careful cutting the ramp shorter, you don't want it too short. Is there any way you can lower the body of the trukk? Particularly if you're going to raise the sides/cab - it might look a bit top heavy, plus modelling for disadvantage. Hell, even if you just cut holes in the floor and drop it over the wheels, I think it would look suitably orky. edit: Bhyo, that Sanguinor looks awesome.
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2010 01:10 |
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Tentacle Party posted:Yeah about that... I don't know when you're going to find time for all this... I barely have time to paint five space barbies. Still, I'm not a CHEATING BASTARD who uses dips.
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2010 14:45 |
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NecronSchmecron posted:It's from the bike itself. I could drape bolter casings, but that wouldn't do much for it. Would throwing a storm bolter on there look less weird you think? Two words. Dual wield.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2010 00:48 |
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crime fighting hog posted:While the model is kinda fugly, the paint job is the best marble I've seen Wet blending, glazes? I dunno. Despite the awesome effect, I can't help but see that model as a paperweight. I think the striations are a bit "big".
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2010 07:55 |
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crime fighting hog posted:actual plants to use on my warhams? Use aquarium plants.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2010 01:31 |
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Bavius posted:Haha, I don't know if that's out of my league to paint, but they look loads better than I can pull off at the moment. I understand the point though. I basically took a look at an example scout in the Wolves dex, did my best to emulate the paint scheme and tried to add some stealth to it. The idea being that if they weren't so busy running and posing they'd cover up in their camo cloaks. I would suggest painting the rims of your bases a different colour. Probably black. It just makes the bases look that little bit better.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2010 06:45 |
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Add a drop or two of dishwashing liquid to some PVA glue and gently stir through. This breaks the surface tension of the glue, making it easier to spread around. It might also help with your peeling problem.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2010 03:17 |
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Bobx66 posted:Extremely excited to see how crackle works on the flat surfaces of a soulgrinder. What color scheme are you thinking? Don't forget to test it out! Seconding all parts of this post. Additionaly, I vote for an "old ceramic fuse" scheme. With dark rusty metal bits.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2010 13:55 |
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I don't know if I'm sold on the poses of those models, but PV that is an awesome paintjob. I love the helmet.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2010 07:50 |
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This is pretty good for a first model. Much better than my first models. It looks like you've done edge highlighting on the lower legs and some other parts, but not the rest of the armour. Put edge highlights on the rest of the armour, and maybe some strong highlights on the wolf tail thingies. Then base it and post more pics. You might also want to look at doing some post processing with your photos. Picasa is free and easy to use; other people swear by Gimp, etc. e: I should see if I still have my first models.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2010 08:07 |
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pw pw pw posted:guys
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2010 05:05 |
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If you're going to be painting PVA glue, make sure you water it down a bit. You want it to be a little bit glompy, but still smooth enough to paint. And adding a tiny bit of detergent stirred in will break the surface tension and stop it from pooling. e: PVA glue is wood glue, but wood glue is not PVA glue.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2010 23:44 |
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Aranan posted:Okay, I could use a suggestion. I'm looking at two different ways to do the colored parts of my Cryx armor. It will be a very prevalent color on most of the models. I am looking at doing either: Can't really see much detail, but the left side looks a bit warmer. If the metallics are going to be predominantly bronze, I'd go with the second recipe.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2010 06:01 |
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Ikke en viking posted:I love the feeling when I, after hours and hours of assembling and painting, finish the base and I can look at the mini and go "FINISHED!" Painting my base rims is the sweetest part of the whole process.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2010 14:15 |
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So, for those who haven't been following the Oath thread, I've just oathed the tyranid portion of a Space Hulk game with a clause. I was thinking of doing their colour scheme in a way that would blend somewhat with the palette of a space hulk, so I've opted to go for dark greyish-brown on the soft bits, and a steel grey on the carapace (perhaps with a reddish tinge on the edges, I'm not sure). Anyone able to advise me of a simple method for achieving this? edit: MaliciousOnion fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Aug 5, 2010 |
# ¿ Aug 5, 2010 07:11 |
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Captain Invictus posted:Yeah. And it actually cost more total than if you bought everything individually. I seem to remember that deal being for half a chapter. I could be wrong. I also remember it said they'd throw in a couple of cans of primer, too.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2010 05:54 |
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Their heads are too narrow. And holy gently caress that flamer looks terrible. It looks like GW's "airbrush". Red Herring, that farseer is looking awesome. I think the feet blend into the robes a bit, though. edit: table breakage MaliciousOnion fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Aug 16, 2010 |
# ¿ Aug 16, 2010 06:53 |
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Jonny Nox posted:maliciousonion, what is the scale of that mini, who makes it? I have no idea.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2010 08:17 |
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With regards to that ghost I posted, I think it may be coming out as a sculpt from Pizarro Miniatures. They've got this guy, whose pic was hosted at the same directory and has some similar details. Oh, and it's 54mm. Clicky!
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2010 00:10 |
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Guys, stop wearing out my scroll wheel with your cross-posting.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2010 00:47 |
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nthing the rivets idea. superglue applied with a toothpick is a good way to make easy, small rivets. Also, I think they need pauldrons too.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2010 00:58 |
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I assemble purely along aesthetic lines. Hell, I have Vanguard Veterans. VANGUARD VETERANS!
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2010 05:40 |
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:This is the rat man I am still trying to sell, it really is a great sculpt considering how old it is. Anyone got a sure fire way to do skulls? I think I have pretty much tried everything and still cant get it right. I've found a decent easy recipe; Dheneb Stone base Devlan Mud wash Thin Skull White highlight Devlan Mud wash Thin Skull White highlight Possibly switch one of the washes for Gryphonne Sepia for a more yellowed look.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2010 08:09 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to go through the pain of edge highlighting all that metal or not. After that it's just some blacklining, detail some gubbinz here and there, and bases. Do the edging. It'll make them look even more awesome. (Good job, dude.)
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2010 03:09 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 16:38 |
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Any PVA glue (a.k.a. craft glue, white glue, etc.) will do, since they're all basically the same. Just make sure you water it down some. On a related note, I recently found clear PVA glue, I wasn't aware it existed.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 02:36 |