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Hey, look at me, I painted some things: Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Not much to say about BT given their color scheme--but I think it turned out all right for my first squad. Any suggestions (besides "get a better brush," because I already know that one) are welcome, especially w/r/t highlighting.
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Feb 8, 2011 06:15
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Hey I painted my first mini in like 2 years: http://imgur.com/a/So0M3  Here are all my BT so far:  Edit: the Champion I painted in 2008, the Assault Squad were painted in 2011, and just did the Chaplain the other day. So my Crusader Squad should be done by early 2017 - keep watching this thread! Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 05:34
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Deviant posted:The victims: I think they changed all the names on those paints, too.  But seriously, what are the best paints out there now? How are the P3 paints? I always loved Citadel Colour but it is a) expensive, b) confusing, and c) prone to drying out. Mostly the (a) is why I haven't already replaced it.
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Jan 23, 2014 05:43
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Do you find you have trouble with keeping your hands steady? Or is it more of an aesthetic impairment, you can't seem to figure out which colors to put where?
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Jan 24, 2014 06:15
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I did a whole lot of putting gray paint over black primer today, and decided I am never hand-basecoating a tank again. Still a lot of work to be done but I thought I would give myself at least a BIT of satisfaction by painting the scanners on my Tau Hammerhead tank - so here they are!   Doesn't look half-bad from close up; I think I am getting better at the lens effect.
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Jan 29, 2014 23:56
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^^ yeah also this, I was going to prime today but it was cold and also wet and it seemed like a bad idea. On the Warmachine thread, someone said to do it in a shower with the curtains closed 
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Jan 30, 2014 00:11
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Real hurthling! posted:The 3 primary color static grass is really distracting on these models. Hey, not all planets have monochrome grass bro. Stop being spacist.
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Jan 30, 2014 01:44
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Ooh, awesome glass effect on the lenses and buttons.
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Jan 31, 2014 05:02
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:More adventures in quick painting. Bought a Cairn Wraith and converted it to fit in with Tomb Kings skeletons - I guess as a Lich Priest? Well whatever, it's a Sand Wraith now. oooo SPOOOOOOOKY! But isn't "Sand Wraith" a racist epithet?
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Feb 2, 2014 17:13
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berzerkmonkey posted:Sabol Army Transport trays and cases are a little more reasonably priced, but I don't like the tray bottoms - they're kind of thin. Again, I've got some older trays from them, so they may have updated their materials. Just buy some 1/2" closed-cell foam to strengthen them. Check out this place: http://www.foambymail.com/ Specifically this: http://www.foambymail.com/MC2-/cross-linked-polyethylene-foam-2lb.html They also sell pick & pluck foam (what Sabol uses) but it's cheaper to go through Sabol actually.
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Feb 5, 2014 00:35
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^^Yeah, it looks perfect. Great job! I've finally started magnetizing my Tau battlesuit models and it's almost addictive how much more fun it makes playing with my toys. I feel the compulsion to buy more models just so I can magnetize them!
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Feb 9, 2014 20:11
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Is there a good tutorial on using green putty for filling gaps/seams between pieces? I am assembling my final Tau tank (for a while, anyway) and I want this one to not have such egregious panel lines. I tried using putty to fill the gaps on my first tank a few years ago but it didn't really work - it got a bit blobby, and has my fingerprints (literally) all over it.
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Feb 11, 2014 19:59
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Dr. Lenin posted:Rule #1 is to keep it wet. That is a rule I did not know.  You've already been extremely helpful!
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Feb 11, 2014 20:10
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JackMann posted:For gaps, I usually go with Golden sculpting paste medium. It's basically the same as liquid green stuff, but white instead of green, and much cheaper. Is it this stuff?  Where would I go to find it? An art store, I assume? Michael's/AC Moore?
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Feb 11, 2014 23:11
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moths posted:Are they independently owned? I've seen Testors and some others there but never GW anything. (I figured they didn't fit in with their "values.") Yeah, GW F's too many people in the A to be family-friendly.
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Feb 12, 2014 21:34
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Same, the store I go to carries GW, Reaper, P3, Vallejo, and Army Painter stuff. They even sell Battletech and Dystopian Wars minis.
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Feb 12, 2014 21:47
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moths posted:I always feel bad when I see reversed Leman Russ treads. Yeah, that's how they should go in real life, but part of the joke it's that they're just copying centuries-old designs which have become religious dogma. There's just something I love about stupid mistakes becoming enshrined in tradition, and it's a nice parallel to early GW not understanding how treads work. Hm, no, I think real life tank treads have the raised part in the front:  (Front is the left side of the image) It's the Land Raider who is backwards. Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 14:51
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The Gale Force Nine products are much, much better, cheaper, and easier to store.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:43
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Groetgaffel posted:But yes, you are right, there's plenty of things in 40k that are just outright silly in the real world. Which makes total sense as 40k started out as a parody of everything grimdark. I always liked how, in the grim darkness of the 41st millennium, they can build starships that warp across the galaxy but seem to have forgotten what welding is.
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Feb 23, 2014 19:04
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Also I like to imagine that Tau stuff is literally made out of plastic, but, like, super-tough space plastic. And assembled off of giant sprues.
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Feb 23, 2014 19:40
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Remind me, what's the best spraypaint to use for priming/basecoating plastic minis? If different brands/formulas are better for infantry versus vehicles, that would be good to know too.
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Mar 1, 2014 00:20
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Jcam posted:Seconding Krylon as great primer for your miniatures. I use the Satin Primer + Paint stuff, because I like the coverage and durability of the coat on both metal and plastic. Hm, looks good. I really want to figure out what spray paint matches GW Dawnstone (formerly Codex Grey) and basecoat my tanks with it, because brushing that on is hellacious and I don't have money/space for an airbrush right now.
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Mar 1, 2014 04:51
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I would call that a banner hanging between the legs, not a tabard, since it's hanging and not being worn. The coolest way to do it would be to sculpt it like it was flapping in the wind while the Knight ran.
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Mar 9, 2014 15:15
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So I finally got a Citadel Finecast model, specifically this one: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440287a&prodId=prod2000045a It's a totally cool model, but like all Finecast it has a bunch of little bubbles that are really frustrating to deal with. What is the best way to fill those in? I tried the Golden Light Molding Paste, but it is too...spongey? foamy? to get the job done (so there's 13 bucks I am not getting back...) I have plenty off green stuff putty, is that the answer? There is one major structural problem, on the front plate of his torso, but I can fix that with some strips of plastic card since it's a rectangular shape. That's not the real issue, the bubbles are.
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Mar 10, 2014 00:47
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Doctor Zero posted:I bought a finecast model once. Once. I'll check out Squadron putty if my Greenstuff efforts aren't successful. On second thought I really should have just converted a commander from a regular battlesuit and miscellaneous Tau bits...oh well. IN THEORY, the Commander model is cooler than anything I could convert, probably.
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Mar 10, 2014 01:23
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I was gonna say, this right here is how the Tyrannic War started.
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Mar 10, 2014 05:28
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eBay is your best bet. GW's contract with retailers forbids them from selling bits in the US.
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Mar 10, 2014 05:36
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Good to know. That seems very likely now that you point it out.
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Mar 10, 2014 06:06
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Verdugo posted:I picked up some Tamiya Basic Putty at Hobby Lobby over the weekend. I thought it was a two part epoxy style putty like kneaditite but it's even better. I love this stuff -- I can apply it right out of the tube to the seams on a model, smooth it with a wet finger, then sand it down and the seam is completely gone. I had an old metal Warpwolf Stalker stripped and in pieces, some time with a hobby drill, epoxy putty and the Tamiya Putty has it looking pretty sweet. No pics right now. Hm, that sounds like a better option than green stuff, but on the other hand I don't want to support Hobby Lobby's regressive anti-employee healthcare policies. Is it this stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Putty-Basic-Type-32g/dp/B0073T7PXG
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Mar 11, 2014 18:54
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Awesome, much cheaper than the Golden Paste stuff. You use very fine sandpaper, right? Like, 1000 grit?
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Mar 12, 2014 17:56
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I paint the barrel covers and sights on my Tau guns the same color as the armor, including an accent color (my squads are color-coded) along the top of the barrel. The remainder (stock, trigger guard, receiver[?], etc.) is black.
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Mar 13, 2014 15:21
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How do I attach model heads to paper clips? Or pins, for that matter? Just jam them into the plastic? Or use a drill?
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Mar 19, 2014 01:00
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:You want what is called a 'pin vice'. And the attendant drill bits in a diameter that matches or is slightly narrower than your paper-clip. Hm, okay, fortunately I already have both of those for pinning and magnetizing.
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Mar 19, 2014 01:06
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CyberLord XP posted:Not to knock it but I think it's lit from the bottom, not OSL. Looks baller. 
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Mar 27, 2014 01:56
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BULBASAUR posted:WIP on my 30k vindicators. It's so bright and purdy before I attack it with steel wool and oil washes: Where are the vehicle mods from? Not Forgeworld, right?
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Apr 8, 2014 04:34
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Hey, can someone remind me the best way to take apart plastic minis that have been put together with plastic cement?
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Apr 12, 2014 00:15
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That's what I figured. I realized I made some extra Space Marines with bolters...but I guess they are here to stay, there would be too much trouble involved in removing their arms.
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Apr 12, 2014 00:27
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That's awesome. How does the game play?
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Apr 17, 2014 02:02
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Cooked Auto posted:I just tend to gently scrape off mouldlines with my x-acto knife as someone taught me a long time ago and so far it has worked just fine. Yeah I assumed everyone did this, and used files for metal models.
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Apr 19, 2014 01:27
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 03:15 |
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Bavius posted:I don't think you can see it due to my phone hand being shaky but I did do a very light white/blue on the edges. Those power weapons look great! It's a shame terminator assault squads aren't more useful in the current edition because I really want to make some maybe I will anyway
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Apr 28, 2014 02:59
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