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Hey, I'm about to paint some metal Warmachine guys after painting some plastic Hordes guys. Does anybody else use paint a layer of Gesso on their models before starting the real painting? I read that tip in a how-to for painting the figures that come with the D&D board game Castle Ravenloft and I used it while practicing on some old Mage Knight figures but I thought it ended up making the layers too thick and killing some of the detail. If I did use Gesso, would that work as a base or should I paint on the stuff, then a base coat, then paint->washes->highlights?
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Feb 23, 2013 01:06
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 04:39 |
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Ah, thanks. I thought the Gesso was a little bit weird to use on minis and I had never heard of anyone using it before. Also, I feel kinda stupid because I've been doing Gesso->Black Primer for no reason. I started painting a few years ago but only really started looking at guides and stuff recently. That, combined with the fact that the closest gaming store was a four hour drive away means most of my supplies are from Wal Mart. I use mostly cheap Apple Barrel acrylics and I've started slightly thinning them out with distilled water. Should I order up some "real" model paints now that I'm planning on playing regularly in public? A new store opened much closer and they carry mostly GW stuff but I could just order from somewhere online. Would the paints make that big of a difference in the final product?
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Feb 23, 2013 01:44
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PxiePip posted:This may be something that already totally exists all over the place, but as a complete beginner to the hobby, I'd instantly buy a bag of pre-mixed "rocks" (cork of different textures, gravel and sand) of varying sizes - I've seen people's buckets of this kind of stuff in lots of painting tutorials on YouTube, but they usually mix lots of separate products and I'd rather just buy a single bag of stuff 'cos I'm lazy. This lady's bucket of stuff is a perfect example. I only recently got in to attempting to do good painting and basing but I also have limited funds and I found that a cheap dollar store bag of kitty litter has enough different sized chunks in it to be a decent alternative to a basing kit. Likewise on the cheap tip, if you save tea bags, let them dry out and then tear them open, it is a useful tool in place of "flock". Usually, I include it in the base and prime it with everything else, then paint over it in a color suitable to the environment it needs to represent but it adds a nice texture. I've also used it in its natural state on some terrain. Also, as a bonus, as you're painting, you'll occasionally get a whiff of tea leaves.
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Feb 27, 2013 05:14
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Hey, hellbeard, I know you mentiond doing cyberpunk and some skyfallers but based on that wizard, you could probably make some pretty sweet "urban fantasy" pieces. I am not well-versed in what's available but it seems like that genre is underrepresented in miniature hobby stuff. Something like Dresden Files wizards with magnums and Uzis.
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Mar 5, 2013 21:32
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Under 15 posted:On the topic of less is more, I want to share my rattlecan method because I've been spraying a lot of dudes lately. I used to piss through a lot of spray paint because I'd stand the models up (usually taping them down so they wouldn't tip over) on a box top and spray them like that. I've saved an awful lot of spray paint by laying them down in a circle, bases pointed inward. Doing that, you can spray in gentle arcs rather than off into space, and you can rotate the box top with your wrist and make sure that all the time you are spraying, you're getting a model, and not the bottom of a base or nothing. It's easy to piss through primer if you aren't thinking about it. I saw a really interesting priming tutorial where they used a paint stirrer which you can pick up for free from most home improvement places and some cheap double sided tape(though I bet blu tac would work too) and then started spraying. The thin stirrer is strong enough to hold the models and you can pick them up and move them around as you spray. I usually use a piece of cardboard but I'm going to try this out next time.
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Dec 4, 2013 03:09
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JoshTheStampede posted:You can also just put on a rubber glove and hold the model in your hand. Oh yeah, the person was wearing a glove. I guess the idea was you can do several models at the same time. For some reason, just holding the model in my hand and priming it never really came to mind but that would work really well for models with flaring capes, wings or dramatic poses that make it hard to spray down otherwise. I usually just use brush on gesso but I'm getting into warhammer and speeding up the whole process would be nice.
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Dec 4, 2013 05:24
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Indolent Bastard posted:A well primed mini with no issues of it being sticky or tacky. I just finished some Bones figures that I didn't prime and although they painted up fine, they do have a weird texture and they do look noticeably different standing next to my other minis. Part of it might be that I always prime black or grey but I don't know what the deal is with the strange feel to them.
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Dec 6, 2013 05:20
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Caddrel posted:What kind of sand is common for basing minis? I'm having trouble finding sand that's not too fine. I'm using a cheap bag of kitty litter that I got from a dollar store. You can run it through a cheap sifter to make it more even otherwise it's pretty variable with lots of different chunks. I like it because most of my bases are desert or asphalt but I also picked up a cheap bag of shells from the same dollar store and smashed it up for chunks of rubble to strew through some bases.
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Dec 11, 2013 01:47
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I'm about to paint a pureblood warpwolf and I want his skin to look "ghostly". Based on what I have, I was going to go with reaper MSP misty grey, then a wash of thinned down citadel teclis blue and a highlight of Vallejo model color off white. Just writing it out here I already feel like its not going to work how I think it will. I guess I'm going to need to buy some more paint but what? Basically, I think light grey, light blue wash then off white highlight but I'm just guessing based on other paint jobs I've seen. I feel like I'm going to need a glaze...
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Jan 21, 2014 04:02
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Lord Of Texas posted:Thanks. I will work on getting a lightbox/second light source set up for future pics. I like your stuff from what I can see. I'd suggest doing both sets of stones with a "glowy" paint job and differentiating them by giving each unit a different base. Maybe a rocky base for one and a grassy base for the other or something like that.
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Feb 16, 2014 06:08
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Phoon posted:Anybody got any pics of models with objects suspended in mid air with wires and such I'd like to take a look at some, see how it looks, especially if the wires are painted to look like magic effects or something. This video might be a different take on what you're looking for. It's a tutorial for using hot glue to make it look like things are bursting off the base. I'm not sure if it will help but it was the first thing to come to mind.
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Feb 17, 2014 03:11
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Does anybody know if mean green is any good? I grabbed some LAs Totally Awesome but it doesn't get things completely clean. Also, what was the use for the Pledge floor cleaner? I seem to remember that some people used it to make washes or varnish models or maybe both...
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Feb 18, 2014 02:55
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El Estrago Bonito posted:You're not going to get anything perfectly clean. In reality you're still going to have some bits of primer gunk in the deep cracks, thats just how it be. Metals are a different beast. You can use acetone and a toothbrush to get metals looking like they just came from a blister, I do this for pretty much everything I sell on ebay just because. So will it be okay to reprime some stuff if it's got little bits of old primer? This is my first outing with a used model but I think I'm going to be using them quite a bit so I don't want to mess them up. One unit is soaking, the other is primed but the primer is all chipped so I figured I should wash it off and reprime. They are all metal models so I could go the acetone route, I am just worried about chemicals because I don't have a big work space and I'm usually doing stuff in the living room or kitchen so if something is toxic or just stinks it ruins everyone's day.
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Feb 18, 2014 21:01
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Those are pretty amazing. I especially love the thief but they are all very cool and you did a great job of tying them all together but keeping them unique.
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Feb 19, 2014 17:41
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What about a black tongue? Maybe with mottled gray or blue spots?
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Feb 19, 2014 20:14
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I used to prime with gesso and I still like the idea of a brush on primer but I recently ramped up my painting so I started using Rustoleum grey and it seems to work pretty good. I wasn't sold on spray on primer for a long time because it turns out I was using regular spray paint as a primer. Don't make that mistake. I just got some a unit of guys for Hordes and the seller packed in half another unit and a solo for no apparent reason. The unit I ordered looks great but I want to repaint the solo. The problem is they have already been based with snow and ballast. What do you guys usually do bases? Should I just scrape all the old junk off with an xacto blade or is there an easier way?
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Mar 1, 2014 04:29
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thespaceinvader posted:
I like the water effect on the mages base but why does the hydra have a dial on its base?
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Mar 1, 2014 13:03
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I really like the neon look but I also agree it looks a little too Christmassy. Maybe just embrace the neon look and change the red to pink. E: although it might be the pic is making the red look darker than it is. Either way I really like the scheme in general.
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Mar 4, 2014 15:33
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JerryLee posted:So here's the first fully painted example of my cosmetic work on Warpborn Skinwalkers (I'm oathing the next one this month). I realize that poor posture is often traditionally a beastman 'thing,' but I think you have to draw the line somewhere, and for me the line is when your head is coming out of your lower sternum. The skin walkers are one of my favorite units and I think part of it is the pose. They are hunched over like they might just throw down their axes and lunge right at the next target. Additionally, the grunts all hunched over make the leader stand out more. That being said, I am really interested to see the unit as a whole. Are you going to repose the leader too? Also, are you going to paint up a warp born alpha?
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Mar 7, 2014 20:22
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I decided to try to cover the seams on my latest model with some liquid green stuff. I had always assumed it was actually liquid but it's kinda chunky and semi solid. Is that normal? I tried to apply it with a toothpick and I think it worked but now I'm worried I've got a bad batch.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:34
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have a recommendation for water effect? I have some bases I'm painted right now that I plan on flooding for my gator-men. I have used mod podge, the stuff you put onto finished puzzles to keep them together. It works pretty good and goes on clear but has a thick look to it, if that makes sense. Naturally, the woodland Scenics stuff is probably going to be the better way to go but mod podge if you're in a pinch and don't have access to the real stuff.
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May 15, 2014 06:02
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How did you do the icy base? I really like that paint job and two hours is nuts for how clean it looks.
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Jul 27, 2014 00:28
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LingcodKilla posted:Oooh! For DIY I got a great method of wrapping my minis in toilet paper then stacking them in a sterilite $ one dollar stackable box. Instead of toilet paper, the guys at a shop I go to use dried out baby wipes. I guess they got a whole bunch of them from a manufacturer or something but you could also just buy a cheap box and let them dry out because it works really good to not scuff paint while still cradling and protecting your minis.
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Aug 27, 2014 20:10
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Big Willy Style posted:Don't want to swing my dick around here but the actual cheapest way to make terrain is to grab some cardboard boxes from supermarkets or whatever to make buildings and ruins, ground up sprue for rubble and packing foam for hills and stuff. I totally agree with this and will add that the DMs Craft, although ostensibly for creating terrain for RPGs, has plenty of great tutorials for wargame terrain. I just used one of his tutorials for how to make large rocks to craft some asteroids for the X-Wing game(I used 4 paper towels, some tissue and an old cereal box). It's also really easy to scale his stuff down or up for different scale gaming but he generally builds for 25-30mm figures.
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Nov 4, 2014 21:38
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Saalkin posted:I know this comes up every so often, but I'll ask again. Anyone know of a good how to guide for building a light box? This is the guide I used from DIY Tryin. http://youtu.be/OyxzC5kqbyw The design is cool because it can be folded up to get it out of the way when you need to.
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Nov 13, 2014 03:32
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berzerkmonkey posted:OK, $11.70, but you get the point. I do have that kind of stuff lying around but I had no idea they got down to that cheap, that's good to know.
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Nov 13, 2014 18:38
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I feel like this has been asked a couple times already but what is up with the Citadel imperial primer? I got a Citadel paint kit and it had some imperial primer but it goes on more like a heavy black wash. Is this weird or have I been priming wrong all this time?
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Nov 29, 2014 20:45
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dr_ether posted:I'm fine with that since I wasn't the one who even brought rape fantasies. I jus posted a mini. Actually, I did want to ask if you or anyone who is getting the board game is going to magnetize the minis? I was really interested in the game and I like that when you find new stuff there's actually a corresponding mini part but I figure you are either going to magnetize or you are just gonna make what you like and call it good.
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Dec 3, 2014 20:01
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LordAba posted:NOPE. Those joints will be tiny. You might get away with the waist and shoulder-to-body joints (if you are experieced with a pin-vice and can find the right sizes magnets) but it will be a huge pain. Most magnets that have a proper width to them will be cylindrical, and might be too long. As dr_ether says, pinning might be the best option. You would need two thin pins set up to avoid "droopy arm" syndrome. I really like the base game from what I've seen. It looks like a fantasy survival-horror with a side of civilation building. The monsters are pretty tame, too, but now it looks like with the success of the unsavory stuff, I feel like even the core game is going to have artwork of lions biting off dicks and girls fellating antelope horns.
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Dec 4, 2014 04:20
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LumberingTroll posted:None of these are baroque, nor similar to Kindom Death / Dark Souls. I would say the Avalon faction of Alkemy has some Dark Soulsish stuff. Hell Dorado does too, though I'm not sure of what specific factions. I would also say Confrontation from Rackham has some good stuff, too. I think the problem is it's mostly generic knights and I don't think anybody besides Kingdom Death has made monsters that feel like they would be waiting for you in Dark Souls.
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Dec 6, 2014 23:34
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I need a source on some 28mm figures of guys in workers jumpsuits/painter suits/tank crewman suits, preferably with no hats or helmets unless they are motorcycle helmets. Looks like there's a line of minis for a game called Kiss Kiss Bang Bang that might fit the bill. I found them when I was looking around here.
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Dec 11, 2014 06:56
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Looks cool, side note, the unfortunate shadow and angle makes it look like the marine has a candle on his head. I really thought he did and it was just some 40k thing I don't know about like an order of marines that take a sacred oath to keep spread the emperor's light but of course the oath is taken very literally and all their candles are lit by one candle the emperor lit long ago.
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Feb 20, 2015 13:59
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 04:39 |
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On the subject of new painters(myself included) Dan Harmon gave some really good advice on writer's block that could be applied to any creative endeavor. So here's basically what he said, just change "write" to "paint": Prove that you're a bad writer. You're trying to prove that you're a good writer and that's what's blocking you. No matter how good you get, you're always going to think you should be better than you are because you want to be a good writer and you will be by thinking that but it's not going to get you writing right now. The only thing that's going to make you better is practicing. The only thing you're going to be able to write right now is something worse than what you think you should be writing. So you have to stop thinking about the thing that you're going to eventually be able to do and you have to start thinking about the thing that you are terrified you will do because that will go by very quickly.
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Feb 21, 2015 04:02
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