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ijyt posted:That's fine, I think it's just that I slightly over-thin my paints from time to time, and handling the model causes paint to rub off. I should invest in a cork. Are they entering stealth mode? Cuz that's rad as gently caress.
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Aug 5, 2013 23:05
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gilljoy posted:Anyone have any good recipes or tutorials for how to paint greenskin skin?? Preferably using vallejo paints, really struggling to get a colour I like for it  For quick simple Orks, this is what I do: 1. Paint them flat yellow. Any yellow will do, I typically switch it up and use different shades on different orks to give them some variety.  2. Wash with Green or Blue. Green gives you a bright green and blue gives you a dark green. 
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Aug 7, 2013 20:29
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Can anyone link me to some good tutorials for doing Object Based Lighting? I've never tried it before but I think I'd like to experiment a bit.
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Aug 15, 2013 00:48
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While we're talking about Laser Cut terrain, anyone got a line on an American outfit selling pre-cut terrain bases like these: http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_STB The only places I can find offering them are overseas, and shipping costs make it kinda silly.
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Aug 27, 2013 08:11
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Verdugo posted:If you're painting orcs, I would reccommend basecoating them yellow and washing them with thraka green -- the green wash really makes it pop that way. Example: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/3OeWD3dwJhm0 Haha. I didn't know that tutorial was still out there. I might have been a little drunk when I wrote it. Between this thread and the 40k thread, I've really been wanting to paint more orks lately.
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Sep 3, 2013 20:08
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Bavius posted:That'll get you some mileage, but I would soak them in simple green first. Rinse them after a day or so in water. Place in fresh simple green in the cleaner. The ultrasonic cleaner will shake away a good portion of the paint. I've had some models go from terrible paint job to completely clean but I've also had some with splotchy bits of primer still stubbornly clinging on. I've actually wondered about stripping minis for awhile. If you spray primer (GW or Army Painter brands) plastic minis, will Simple green take off the primer?
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Sep 6, 2013 06:43
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The best thing about Plastic Glue is that I will never glue my fingers together with it.
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Sep 11, 2013 04:37
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Red Herring posted:poo poo guys, have you seen GW's new GW doesn't really expect many people to buy $10k of Space Marines, what they expect is hundreds of goobers to post on their favorite forums/mailing list/twitterbookspace page about the package, driving people to the site to sell them the new SM codex and a reasonable amount of minis. Judging by the number of posts here, in the 40k thread and on every other mini's list I've read lately... They have succeeded spectacularly. The really surprising thing is that there's somebody at GW who is that savvy about social networking, since most everything else the company does in regards to the internet makes it appear they're still in the 1990s.
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Sep 17, 2013 07:23
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CRAZINESS
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So I made a thing. Have some crappy phone pics:     I've wanted some Ork artillery for awhile, but the GW models are tiny, expensive and kinda dumb looking, so I tried my hand at making my own from scratch. I intended to make three of them, but after a couple of failed starts I ended up with the base for a single one. I dig it, but it's way bigger than it needs to be. If I make more I'm gunna scale them down a bit. The wheels are hand made and I'm not super happy with them, but I haven't been able to find anyone selling appropriate plastic or resin wheels in the right size. I'll see if I can get it painted this weekend.
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Sep 18, 2013 01:04
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Baronjutter posted:http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-decals-with-raised-3d-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html I've seen those, but wasn't sure how they would work, what's the scale like? I don't want to waste time putting on tiny rivets that nobody will notice at table distances. How many do you get in a package? 16 bux seems like a lot for some decals.
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Sep 18, 2013 03:18
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Oxford Comma posted:So whatever metal Warlord used for its Bolt Action figs is non-ferrous because magnets don't work. (There's an ICP joke there somewhere.) So I guess I'll just glue all three of this MG team to the base. Are metal minis ever magnetic? I thought they were all made of pewter (tin/lead).
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Sep 23, 2013 20:48
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thespaceinvader posted:A lot of them used to use pewter, i.e. lead/tin alloy. Before Finecast, Citadel was using a non-lead alloy, I'm not sure waht it was. Before that, they used pewter, before that, just pure lead IIRC. My first minis were pure lead. Might explain my habit of yelling obscenities at random people on the street. I remember them moving to pewter for safety reasons, and then when I got back into minis a few years back everything was labeled "white metal" which I just assumed was another name for pewter.
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Sep 24, 2013 03:58
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Goat Bouillabaise posted:Awsum converted Valk Needs more Dakka, and a red paint job. Otherwise pretty sweet.
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Sep 27, 2013 04:53
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God I love Orks, but I'm starting to hate rivets. I found a couple of cheap Leman Russ tanks on Ebay, and I set about looting them. This is the first one:    I magnetized the guns and the driver and hinged the top hatch.  This is my first attempt at a scratch built vehicle. Except for the wheels it's all made from plasticard. Still WIP, but getting there.  I plan to paint it yellow like a schoolbus.
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Sep 29, 2013 23:11
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krushgroove posted:Please start on this one first. This is the reason I want to start an Ork army. If I ever get the slide rivets I ordered I'll be able to finish it up. After the tank I'm not willing to cut and apply hundreds of rivets for awhile.
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Sep 30, 2013 03:29
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Does anyone make their own washes? I'm wondering if you need to use ink or if regular acrylic paint can be used for the pigment. I have tons of acrylic paints already.
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Oct 1, 2013 03:44
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BULBASAUR posted:I do and you can do both, but I recommend waterproof ink since its what most people consider as a 'wash'. Both do kinda the same thing, but glazes can be made on the fly while washes take some prep work. Ok let me describe that I want to do and you tell me if what I've got will work. My friend has the Vampire bones collection, he doesn't want to paint them right now but he wants to use them for DnD. I suggested priming them all white and then washing them with black wash, they'll look cool and if he decides later to paint them they're already basecoated. So he's going to need a lot of wash, I've got Future Floor wax and tons of Liquitex artist acrylic. Will that make a suitable wash for what we've got planned? I've never made my own wash before I've only used citadel washes.
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Oct 1, 2013 06:21
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Signal posted:That will work just fine. I would recommend possibly base coating things in a color relative to their type though: red for monsters, bone for undead, blue for heroes, or whatever. pure white is going to look a bit strange with the wash. I'll suggest color coding them to him. White base with a black wash ends up with a nice stone gray color and black shadows. It makes the bones miniatures look like tiny stone statues. The effort to impact ratio can't be beat. Now the recipe that I read for wash was 4 parts water to 1 part Future + ~1/2 part pigment. Does that sound right?
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Oct 1, 2013 07:06
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BULBASAUR posted:I'm with signal. If you want deep shadows you're gona need to use inks and normal washes. A black glaze will make your models look like you described, but the shadows won't be deep (that's why I suggest priming zenithaly to get around that). Wait, I thought Future acted as flow improver.
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Oct 1, 2013 08:01
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kannonfodder posted:That's something else I'm curious about, how useful is it to have a metal "skeleton" under the sculpt? I imagine it's mostly just handy to keep the sculpt from drooping while being worked on, but is it something every newbie should use? Even veteran sculptors use an armature of some sort, often just made out of wire (paper clips work) but they also use pre-made ones. Reaper sells a couple of different armatures that are proportioned for minis: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/armature/latest/75002
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Oct 3, 2013 03:14
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Oxford Comma posted:Does anyone use this painting technique: one primes in a light color then washes the model. Ostensibly the nooks and crannies of the model become very visible, making it easier to paint? Pros? Cons? I used this technique recently when painting some of the bones minis. It was great at showing the details that are hard to see on unprimed bones.
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Oct 3, 2013 09:01
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krushgroove posted:Do you guys talking about washing Bones figures do any sort of base coating, or are you putting the wash directly on the model before anything else? I just got my Bones 1 stuff and I've washed and dried everything (took 3 hours!) but I haven't started painting them yet. I prime all my bones with Army Painter spray, I've tried brush on primer, and it works fine, but I've gotten used to using spray primer on everything. The nice thing is unlike metal if you miss a spot on bones you can still just paint over it.
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Oct 3, 2013 19:51
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Updated pics of the Kool Skool Bus. I got some of those waterslide rivets, they're kinda small and not very deep, I hope they show up after painting.   Think I'm gunna paint it for this months oath.
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Oct 5, 2013 01:42
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ineptmule posted:Any mileage in stripping only parts of models? I've messed up the faces on two Infinity minis and it's heartbreaking, because the rest was going so well. I've read somewhere that you can use Dawn Power Dissolver to strip individual parts of a model. It's kind of a gel so you could apply it with a brush to just parts of the model. You might even be able to mask the rest of the model. The stuff is potent and works fast so you'll have to be careful not to get it where you don't want it.
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Oct 7, 2013 10:06
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JEEVES420 posted:You are all right I am not sure what I was thinking with getting paid any amount of money for doing something you enjoy doing in your spare time is a good thing. We should all make 7 figures doing what ever it is we do cause artist deserve to get paid. gently caress the haters. Just because an auto mechanic likes working on cars do you think he would take less than minimum wage to fix your car? So why would a painter take less than minimum wage to paint your minis? Artists constantly get screwed because people think this way. Painting is a skill just like any other and it takes a huge investment in time and materials to master that skill. Wanting to be reasonably compensated for your time is not selfish it's being realistic.
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Oct 8, 2013 03:35
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BULBASAUR posted:So I have some of these and just landed two of these. Problem is, I'm missing all the little plastic windshields. Anybody know of a place that sells thin acrylic/styrene that I can cut and put into place? You can get clear acrylic sheets from Hobbylink.
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Oct 11, 2013 20:36
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So I had to strip the paint and restart on Da Kool Skool Bus, but I've finished up one of my looted wagons this week.    The top hatch is hinged and the pilot is magnetized. He's not quite done yet.  It's even got signals and plates, I think that makes it street legal. 
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Oct 12, 2013 08:00
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alchahest posted:I bought some army painter quick shade to get through a large amount of minis relatively quickly... is it supposed to be so thick? I tested on a pair of warjacks first (the infantry I'm painting is not my own - didn't want to try an entirely new technique on someone else's toys). The instructions say to dip, then shake off, and hard as I shake, it's so thick it's just gummed on the model. please tell me it shrinks as it dries or something, and it's not just going to turn my warjacks into brown blobs overnight? I saw them demo the quickshade at gen con a few years ago, what they suggested doing is attaching the model to a power drill and spinning the stuff off into a box. It looked great, but what a pain in the rear end. They make army painter washes now that work great and match the quick shade colors (which match the old GW washes).
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Oct 14, 2013 00:55
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Dirty Job posted:Anyone know how to get rid of the plastic outline on transfers? I wanna put transfers on the shoulder pads of my guardsman, but on the test model it looks like I just slapped a sticker onto them. I start with a coat of Future, then I use this stuff follow up with this this stuff and then finish with another coat of future. I highly suspect that the Micro Sol is just white vinegar and that the Micro set might just be soapy water, but I can't confirm that.
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Oct 14, 2013 20:06
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I've been using Dawn Power Dissolver to take off paint. It's a spray on gel so you don't need a lot of it, it takes most paint off in less than 30 minutes and doesn't harm the plastic. The only thing it didn't take off was old GW spray primer, but it stripped all the paint down to the primer after about 15 minutes of soaking.
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Oct 16, 2013 08:12
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SRM posted:If it's superglue, put it in the freezer for a little bit. It'll make the glue brittle. Soaking in Simple Green will also. If it's plastic glue (which melts the plastic into itself) you're SOL. If it's superglue you can also get debonder, but I've had mixed results, it's not real effective on big globs of superglue or tight fitings because it can't soak in.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:27
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Da Kool Skool Bus is complete.   Here's da boys with the crossin guard lining up for their first day of crumpin skool.  I initially primed the whole thing gray but after laying on enough coats of yellow to get the color right I couldn't see the water decal rivets anymore. So I stripped the whole thing and started over, reapplied new rivets, and primed white. Surprisingly most of the water slide rivets survived the paint stripper (Dawn Power Dissolver) but they were messed up enough at that point that I needed to sand them all off and start over.
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Oct 17, 2013 00:42
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More Ork Conversions! My second looted Leman Russ.  Would it be uncool of me to put the Crimson Fist symbol on that Rhino door?  This one has a still for extra fuel/refreshments. A friend of mine gave me an old Ork battleforce box which had some of the old style ork warbikes (with tiny riders) I turned one of them into this:  
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Oct 20, 2013 00:52
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BuffaloChicken posted:Superb looted Russ and rescue bike - looking forward to seeing them with some paint. And you definitely should do a Crimson Fist door! That's a sweet count-as idea. I've started painting the wagon, it looks great with just a red base coat, no WIP pics but I'll post some once I'm done.
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Oct 21, 2013 06:46
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I've done a bit of investigating into 3D printing bits via services like Shapeways. For small bits, using the detail plastics it's good for one-offs that you can't source any other way. I was specifically looking to make large spoked artillery wheels for Ork cannons and I could make four of them for about $12 + shipping. Prices are based on volume so it goes up exponentially as your piece increases in size, Making solid wheels in the same size as the spoked artillery wheels more than doubled the price.  That being said compared to GW prices, for small stuff it's not really very expensive. If you wanted to make something in multiples you'd really be better off printing a single one and then casting copies of it in resin. I'm quite sure that within 5 years there will be quality, relatively hassle free, 3D printers that can print highly detailed miniatures, for less than $1000 so this is the future of the industry. EDIT: Someone mentioned hillarious 3d printing mistakes- http://www.flickr.com/groups/3d-print-failures/ Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 20:43
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serious gaylord posted:
It took 20 years for the personal computer to become ubiquitous but it didn't take nearly that long for PCs to get into hobbyist hands. 3D printing will not be in every home in 5 years. But it will be cheap enough and high enough quality that serious hobbyists (like us) will commonly have them.
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Oct 22, 2013 03:33
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JerryLee posted:Shame Power Dissolver is such a pain to get, at least for me. None of the suggested general stores around seem to have it, so I have to order it online and the shipping usually costs nearly as much as the bottle. They sell it at the Wallmarts around here, but I had to go to three different locations before I found one that had it in stock. Generally I've had plenty of luck with it after soaking for less than 30 minutes. I soaked some ebay models in it overnight and it still didn't get the heavy duty black tar primer off but every bit of paint just washed off afterwards. I've never used it on resin though.
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Oct 23, 2013 12:00
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While we're on the topic of drybrushing AND brushes, anyone got suggestions for good dry-brushes? I've got some Citadel small and medium drybrush that I bought years ago and they do a great job, I'm just wondering if there is a better or cheaper option.
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Oct 27, 2013 08:36
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This weekend I had a problem with Testors Model Master Acrylic brush on gloss. I brushed it onto a flat surface that I had previously painted and washed old citadel Asurmen Blue wash and the gloss softened the wash, but not the paint underneath. I ended up having to repaint the whole panel. After repainting I just used Future instead of the Model Master and it worked fine.
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Oct 28, 2013 11:05
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berzerkmonkey posted:
I haven't done it myself, but I bet you could use testors filler putty. Just spread it onto the base with a craft stick right out of the tube, it dries into a slightly gritty rough texture that I think would look just like concrete. The stuff is cheap and available at just about any hobby shop.
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Nov 3, 2013 00:15
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