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Any advice on a good matte finish varnish spray? I went super cheap a while back and grabbed the Patricia Nimcock spray and.. well, you get what you pay for. The smells lingers for way too long and it generally looks like crap. I thought about grabbing the Krylon Matte Finish but I've heard that's better for a display model rather than a play model.
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Mar 3, 2014 19:02
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Has anyone had any experience with using a rubber stamp and paint to apply a design to vehicles? I'm willing to try it but I'm mostly just afraid that it will look terrible and will splatter everywhere.
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Mar 13, 2014 16:43
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evenworse username posted:A lot of people suggest a contrasting colour to make your mini stand out and make its colours pop more. Green is the direct contrast to red I guess but that might not be the look you want. With that shade of red I think a grey might work well. Brown might be too close to that red. Riffing off of this advice, I would say go with a snow/winter base. Given the right materials it's fairly easy to make and the snow-white color should be just different enough from your bleached bone areas.
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Mar 17, 2014 16:20
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What would be the best way to go about removing paint from just one portion of a model? I accidentally painted the head of a model the wrong color but I don't want to layer more paint on over the incorrect layers.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:31
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Ended up just painting over it since my layers were pretty thin, it worked out alright. I was a little antsy about going from a purple layer to white to red but everything worked out in the end.
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Mar 21, 2014 02:28
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A fair point to make regarding Simple Green: do not, like me, assume that the Simple Green that you find in the cleaning products aisle is what you want. Go back to the automotive section where they keep the
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Mar 21, 2014 14:16
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Yeah, exactly. It'll be in the automotive section of Wal-Mart, though I've seen it a few times in various hardware stores. I used the regular "ready to use" stuff and soaked some really old metal minis for a week and it didn't really do a great job. Two days in the concentrate and a few swipes of a toothbrush got them significantly cleaner. You definitely want to wear gloves, though, and keep the area well-ventilated. That poo poo stank up my downstairs bathroom for days.
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Mar 21, 2014 15:35
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Razzled posted:This version of the product always stripped my metal/plastic models to the bare after a few hours of soaking and a little toothbrushing: That's the stuff, right there.
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Mar 21, 2014 16:23
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Has anyone used the Testor's decal solvent solution? It's sort of unclear as to whether it's supposed to be more like Microsol or Microset and I've seen differing statements about whether you apply it before or after applying the decal. I'm really unsure about this stuff and don't know if I should bother with it.
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Apr 6, 2014 22:36
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The label on the jar says before and after, their website says after. My test run with it didn't help the decal lie especially flat so I don't even know what to think.
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Apr 6, 2014 22:45
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If I was looking to do a head swap on a Cygnar warjack, and swap in an eagle head of some kind for maximum 'Murica, what would my best option be?
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Jun 9, 2014 00:11
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Indolent Bastard posted:I haven't, but I'd say medium-dark grey primer, black wash until dark enough, hit the appropriate parts with petwer and old brass paints then wash those in brown and call it done. I'd agree with this but I'd say Burnished Gold or whatever the modern version is for the trim.
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Jun 12, 2014 14:19
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Zenithal priming is when you prime with different shades at different angles. The easy version is to spray a darker shade directly horizontally at the bottom of the model, and then a lighter shade at a 45 degree angle. The harder version that I've seen is black, gray, and white at increasing angles.
PantsOptional fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 15:19
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SRM posted:Wash them with warm, soapy water before assembly. Resin typically has a release agent on it when they remove it from the moulds, and this causes the pieces to feel kind of greasy and keeps paint from sticking to them also. Beyond that, don't be afraid to bend any bent bits to the right shape/angle using warm water and your hands. Pinning is good with larger pieces, but I think just infantry should be fine. Dumb question: Mantic advertises some of their pieces as "plastic resin." Should I handle this any differently from resin, or is it pretty much the same?
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Jul 11, 2014 19:55
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Many moons ago, I tried using spray varnish and swore off it as I found it kept blurring some of my brushwork and losing a lot of detail. Since then I realize that it wasn't the varnish, it was something that I was doing wrong. What was it that I did wrong? My thought nowadays is that I held it too close to the models but it seemed like I wasn't getting much coverage further away.
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Aug 21, 2014 20:34
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What's the best option for finding things like styrene rods or plasticard if you don't have a hobby store near you? I know the trick regarding using yard signs for their plasticard, but I'm looking more for things like rods. I somehow doubt Home Depot/Loew's is going to have anything.
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Aug 26, 2014 19:17
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Under 15 posted:http://www.mcmaster.com/#polystyrene/=tgavr5 gently caress yessssss thank you.
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Aug 27, 2014 00:18
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Between the mould lines and the thick primer I would strip them and start again.
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Aug 29, 2014 02:25
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What's the best way to build up a good yellow on something that's been primed black? My initial thought was to lay down another color underneath it, like an orange or something, but I don't know how viable that is.
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Sep 30, 2014 14:02
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No airbrush to be had, but thank you. I would have missed the brown step entirely and my yellow would likely suffer for it. Thankfully I don't have to do too much of it - just a couple of shoulder pads for some Deathwatch.
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Sep 30, 2014 16:32
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My can of Army Painter black primer is pretty close to done, so on my way home from work tonight I picked up a can of P3 because goons keep talking it up. Holy gently caress, I am done buying any other kind of primer.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:57
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Good Answer: Get the concentrated stuff from the automotive department of your local big box store, auto parts store, or hardware store. Toss 'em in a resealable container (I've used junky tupperware in the past) and put it somewhere the dog won't get to it. Let them soak for a day or so and then take them out and scrub them with a toothbrush dedicated for this purpose (remember to wear rubber gloves). Better Answer: gently caress that, get Super Clean instead.
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Oct 6, 2014 16:54
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Well, really you should be thinning acrylic paints with a mix of water and something that won't lose the binding agent - whether that's Future or a medium or whatever.
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Oct 8, 2014 17:24
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Shachi posted:I hope this doesn't get me laughed out of the thread but here goes. This is literally what I'm doing for my paints already, though I'm not doing any airbrushing, just regular brush work. Works like a charm though I find that I prefer to buy my metallics and washes from [Citadel/Vallejo/Whatever you prefer].
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Oct 8, 2014 20:02
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Doctor Zero posted:Bonus pic of SilverLeaf BucketHelm, one of my unit champions. Oh my god, it's the kid in the helmet.
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Dec 19, 2014 15:56
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Scrunty as gently caress.
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Jan 2, 2015 02:32
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Magres posted:Basically I'm just looking for steel chains with really small links, and with a 90 degree turn from chain to chain and rectangularly links (ie not the kind where the links are all twisty and lie flat together). Jewelry supply stores come to mind immediately. There are a number of options here, for example, though none of them are properly rectangular. I suspect you'll have problems finding them in a true rectangular shape at that size.
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Jan 14, 2015 05:45
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I've had problems getting the P3 to stick to metal, but that may just be me. I am sure I'm Doing Something Wrong.
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Jan 14, 2015 22:31
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thespaceinvader posted:
Wash and dry, yes. The P3 is the aerosol primer. Unless I'm missing some complete other step as well.
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Jan 14, 2015 23:26
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madpanda posted:So is this metal? The first one is metal, the second one is Reaper Bones. The key here is the pricing, and also for some reason I want to say that they shoot all their Bones with a blue background.
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Jan 15, 2015 01:06
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I want to say I got mine from Wal-Mart.
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Jan 20, 2015 22:32
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Bistromatic posted:I ended up making a tiny rubbing tool from a bit of plastic rod and that seems to work fine. That's basically what you're supposed to do. Some companies sell a tool for it but it's essentially just a smooth plastic nub on the end of a stick.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:57
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big_g posted:It can also be used to glue canopies and other transparent parts without any frosting or similar. Thank you so much. I had no idea and was going to superglue on my first Storm Talon canopy tonight.
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Jan 30, 2015 22:00
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Looking at doing a gold-armored model soon and I'd like to forego my usual go-to of brown ink, as I'd like to make the gold pop a little more and be less muted than the brown usually makes it. Which colors would work best to accomplish this?
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Feb 19, 2015 17:29
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Slimnoid posted:This is how I usually do it: That's actually pretty close to how I'm doing most of my gold already, sans the purple wash, so this is excellent.
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Feb 19, 2015 17:38
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If they weren't $25 a pop, I'd use HeroForge to make an entire Inquisitorial henchman unit.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:32
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That should be fine as long as you thin them. Those types of paints tend to be very thick.
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Feb 27, 2015 17:20
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 18:05 |
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One thing I would suggest? Don't thin them with water. Thin them with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and some sort of medium. I personally use Plegde Future (or Multi-Surface, or whatever it's called now). This will keep a thinned paint from being too runny.
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Feb 27, 2015 20:50
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