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Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


bobvonunheil posted:

Speaking of tips, found the Cool Mini Or Not Ultimate Painting Guide. 400 pages of painting tips and practical guides that even total amateurs can get something out of, and seems to have some decent tips for veterans later on.

Wow. Very cool

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Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit



If anyone wants to sclupt me 5 sets of those legs ASAP I will pay a fair price.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Ashcans posted:

Has anyone used Vallejo's crackle medium? I bought some to try it out, but so far it doesn't seem to work. The guy I tested it on just looks very glossy, no sign of crackling after a full 90 minutes. I'm going to leave him overnight and see if anything develops, but I'm not optimistic.

I'm not sure if 28mm is just too small a surface to get the crackle effect forming properly, or if I missed something. I followed the instructions on vallejo's site, put down acrylic in two layers, then the crackle medium.

Can you link me to the guide? I have a bottle of it laying around. No idea what I would use it on...

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit



Scibor is the man. I saw some of the first ones in person the other day, absolutely beautiful.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Captain Scurvy posted:

Ok here we go with my first finished guy in a bit,

Librarian



Very clean! Are you going to dullcoat him?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Electricfan posted:

and here's a question!

i'm debating weather or not i should bother stripping my unfinished minis before putting on this horrible new dark coat. can you tell which one is the model i stripped and re-primed from the one i just painted over??
the left one was stripped

I can barely tell. And I spent about 4 hours the other week stripping 50 of those drat pointy models. I say screw stripping them.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


bobvonunheil posted:

So what's the best way to switch colours when drybrushing?

I've been drybrushing blue, and am done with that and switching to yellow, using the same brush. However, whenever I try to use the yellow, it starts off yellow but then turns green while I'm still getting rid of the excess paint. I've done this 5 or so times now, and it's still coming out the same shade of green, no matter how much I wash the brush or how much yellow I put in.

Should I wait for the brush to completely dry out and/or use a different brush for the time being? Is there something else I'm missing here?

Best solution is to use another brush until that one fully dries out.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


PV when are we going to see a group shot of that Nurgle army? I can't even imagine how much you got paid for that.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


I dont know where you get your glue from but wherever I go there are 4 different types. The company lets the retailer brand it with their name. There is Purple, Blue, Red, and Green. The green is anti super glue. You pour it on let it sit and wiggle the piece free. Its also great for washing your hands.

On the "kicker" I find that it cures weaker but I love the stuff. I use it all the time on metal models. Just make sure you are pinning your larger bits and the weaker bond wont matter.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


This is the brand I was referring to:
http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

You have to have seen these around right? If not; find a better hobby store. Check out train stores and modeling shops they will have this stuff. The bottle you are looking for is called "un-cure"

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/accel.html

This stuff is the poo poo. I love GF9 but they tend to be way overpriced. Also while we are on the subject, if you are gluing plastic to plastic don't use super glue, use plastic glue. You lose the ability to debond it but it creates a much better hold.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


The magnetic paint is only going to work for the surface, there isn't actually magnetic properties in the paint itself it is just metal filings in primer. If you get very thin rare earth magnets for the minis and a surface with the paint you'll be solid.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


MasterSlowPoke posted:

The figured bases would get the magnetic paint, and the surface would be based on the rollable magnetic sheets.

It should work.

PaintVagrant posted:

Get that cheap magnetic sheet stuff with the sticky side and a hole puncher

This will be your cheapest solution.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Indolent Bastard posted:

100 rare earth magnets 1x8mm $6, free international shipping.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13518

I use them with Mighty Putty on the underside of my bases so I can move my minis around in a tool box and not worry about them sliding about during transport.

Does anyone have 4 chaos space marines they'd be willing to give away or trade? I want them for Warriors in a Chaos Blood Bowl team because the metal ones that GW offers look like rear end.

Have anything interesting for trade? I play Nids and Guard.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


email me your reaper stuff. kramer.tyler at gmail dot com

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Mixing for highlights is pretty common but the range of colors are there for consistency when painting an entire army. Mixing up a new batch of color for every model is going to leave you with 100 different shades. I like to premix the bigger colors that I have to use and throwing them in their own pot or dropper.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Fyrbrand posted:

I was going to say I'd worry about magnets breaking free from the glue, leaving the minis to fall, but yeah this is possible especially if one doesn't move minis by the base like they should. (I do this all the time.)

The magnets will break off from the bottom if you use super glue. You have to use Gorilla Glue for attaching the magnet to the base. Ripping the guy off the base is another issue that can be solved by placing the magnet in a uniform place in all of your bases. This way you can tilt the mini to the right or left and lift off a surface with ease.

Or just encase the magnets in resin.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


No Pun Intended posted:

I always thought you'd pull on the base and not the mini itself.

There is no way you could get a good enough grip depending on the surface. You have to use the mini.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Ashcans posted:

I don't know if I am in the minority these days, but I think that its best for bases to be well done but fairly minimal. You don't want to do so much with a base that it draws attention away from the actual figure, and really basing should serve to unify the whole force. That doesn't mean just using green flock, some mixed terrain or a nice cobblestone effect is often a very good look. But doing things like making your entire army marching across a field of corpses can actually detract from the overall appearance. Some flourish on a character base can be nice (Wood Elves have some nice examples of this) but be careful about going over the top on the rank-and-file.

Gotta agree here. It is pretty easy to go over the top with basing.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


crime fighting hog posted:

It worked perfectly. Pics incoming.





Now to wash it black then pick out the details.

Son of a bitch that came out well! I had always hear that it is difficult to airbrush metalics, was it constantly clogging up on you? Did you just use water to thin it? 1:1 ratio?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


PV,

I picked up a used Iwata HP-C off of ebay for 60 bucks with a ton of accessories about a year ago. It is a great entry level brush. As you surmised the real cost is the compressor. I haven't bought one yet as I have a full size compressor but I dont think you can pick up an airbrush compressor for less than 120.

Moral of the story: people are always getting out of airbrushing on ebay and you can get away with highway robbery there.

EDIT: did those paints come in?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints).



OK Dude that is easily the most dynamic and realistic nid color scheme of all time. Please make your 5th edition codex an elite force so that you don't burn out painting that. Seriously bravo.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Indolent Bastard posted:

I used green stuff for the first time a few days ago with so-so results. What I'd like to know is other than liberally covering it and the working surfaces and tools with water how do you stop it from sticking to everything? I was amazed at how tacky it was.

Liberally coat it and your tools with water. Also let it set for like 5-10 minutes before you start working with it, it will lose some of it's tackiness. Bust mostly coat everything in water.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


That isn't a casting error. Seriously there is no excuse for not thinning paints especially when it is clear that you have talent. If you had thinned your paints that model would be pristine and it wouldn't like house paint bubbling off the wall.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


PierreTheMime posted:

It was one column cut-out piece of army case foam, a few random flakes of insulation and enough greenstuff to flatten out and cover. Then it was covered in small stones and a thin layer of glue to both seal it and smooth out any fingerprints I may have left. Very little greenstuff was used.

Requesting Tutorial when you do Tervigon 2. I have some sniperfex that need to be re-purposed.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Nids are the only army that gloss coat is appropriate on.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


theironjef posted:

Looks good on 'Crons, too.

I hadn't considered that but I bet on the right paint job it would look good.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


PaintVagrant, do I be as cool as you?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Gravitas Shortfall posted:

Mycetic Spore time! Made from a Mega Bloks "Plasma Hatcher", painted mostly in one day.



Couldn't do much about that mold line around the top but I was going for speed more than anything else. It's a kids toy, it's not the most detailed thing in the world.



Still, it's amazing how perfect it is for a Mycetic Spore - the size, the detailing.. even the little critter that came with it looks like a Tyranid!

For reference, here's exactly what it used to look like (not my pic, but the store only had the purple ones, I was hoping for a green).



This makes me a little less upset about the new tyranid codex. Where are you guys finding these and for how much?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Gravitas Shortfall posted:

There's an amazon link in my post, but I found mine in the local Sainsburys (I'm in the UK btw)

Ya it looks like the US Amazon is all sold out. I will have to look around my local stores. I hope it isn't discontinued.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


His highlighting on the coats are great, and I really like the scheme, but you had to tell him to stop the drybrushing. I can see that it is how he is doing his golds and it works pretty well. But he has to clean up the black when he is done. It looks great as damage/hard lining, but not great on the flat surfaces.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


R.S. Gumby posted:

Nice warhound.

Working on one of those myself, and have more or less finished the legs, waist and weapons. The main hull is built, but not detailed.

Here's the Vulcan megabolter I just finished:



This is fantastic.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


God drat. Not to add to the circle jerk but GOD drat.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


NecronSchmecron posted:

So a local tournament has been announced for late march. I decided to register.



I've also decided to paint and base more in a month than I have done in the past year.

You've got this. Vehicles are easy and fun to paint and you have done a beautiful job on the other guys. How many points at the tournament and what does your list look like?

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Yog-Sothoth posted:

Finished my dragon, didnt want to do indepth blending for all the armor just the helmet. Really needs more front on light in the photo (still messing with lightbox) but the edge highlights are a bit more pronounced, was way too bright (straight golden yellow) originally but a second red wash muted it just enough



Fantastic blending. Keep it up.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

What size magnets do you guys use to store your figures? I worry about them being too strong or too weak. Do you put them in the center or on the side?

I use 1/8x3/32" magnets and I put them in the same off center spot under all of my bases. This way I can lift up the minis at an angle without ripping them off.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


I really like the Red one, the silver doesn't look like it has much depth but that could be the picture.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Fix, absolutely beautiful. I really REALLY like the green.

PV, jesus christ that is an insane commission.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


alcyon posted:

Sure dude:

http://www.migproductionsforums.com...wforum.php?f=20
the mig forums are awesome. Some SERIOUS talent there.
I urge you all to browse it for a few hours. Required reading class!


The guys who wrote the FW Masterclass book post here. Great forum.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Yog-Sothoth posted:

WIP fire dragon pics from the oath thread





and a better lit shot of the finished one


http://www.slashfilm.com/2009/11/27...-movie-posters/

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Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


CreepyWalkingRobot posted:

Would white gesso work as a primer? If not, is there a brush-on white primer that will work, or am I stuck using a spray?

You should really use spray, I find that white gesso doesn't really get even coverage.

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