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Is this some sort of Civilization style game where you can pit spearmen against M1A1s?
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2021 09:51 |
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No Pun Intended posted:Is that the new smog stuff
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Forget Noise Marines, this guy's covered in trumpets.
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Zarkov Cortez posted:
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Yeah, a nurgling. Under the sideways foot. On the bottom of the previous page.
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To be fair, I imagine it looks pretty spectacular, though subdued under normal lighting. It is a mistake I commonly make. I tend to make things kind of gentle and gradual, but you really have to go overboard with highlighting and shading on minis to make them look interesting. Reading tips here and on EOW has not only made my stuff pop a lot more, but I have been able to get stuff cranked out considerably faster.
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That is some real neat freehanding on the powerweapon blades, PV.
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Just dress up their warlock like Michael Jackson in Smooth Criminal and it'll be an awesome theme squad.
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Silo full of unpainted miniatures.
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Skarsnik posted:Haven't posted anything in a while as free painting time been seriously reduced recently, but here's a little WIP of my current project: This is really awesome and I would just like to say that I love Imperial Fist stuff that says "Dorn" on it because I always associate "Michael" with that name rather than "Rogal".
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Jonny Nox posted:you know what? Don't let good painters discourage you. Just keep practicing and having fun. Painted models are better than unpainted models.
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It's looking a lot better. Practice is the only thing that'll make you better, so if you think you suck, just keep painting more.
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uncle jimbo posted:Vague as poo poo question, but how do I paint moderately well yet quickly? You guys have any particular tips other than practice/devlan mud/adderall? Good brushes are a key. Series 7 is where it's at. They might even be less expensive than the stuff Games Workshop puts out. Paint consistency is probably the most important thing, and that takes practice to get used to. Otherwise, it's just a matter of staying in the lines, and knowing a few tricks. The order I would suggest is: 1) Put down a solid base coat. 2) Drybrush some highlights on. 3) Use an appropriate wash for shading. 4) Re-highlight areas that need it. Listen to music or a podcast you enjoy while you're working and time will zip right by. Remember that you're dealing with a tabletop game. If it looks good at arms length, you're good to go. Otherwise, if you see something that somebody else did that looks neat, ask them how they did it. (Also yellow is a difficult color scheme to do right.)
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Bad Munki posted:Lots of fine painting. A blast of Dullcote should take the shine off of Mr. Wizard. Those candles are great, and the snakes are snazzy as hell. Did you just drybrush on some gold or what? The little skeletons look great, and priming the big ones black isn't such a big deal, because there will be dark spots that will be hard to get into anyway. Skeletons don't need an especially clean look.
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It helps with shading and highlighting since the white doesn't go into recesses very well, and sticks to prominent surfaces. It should speed things up a bit because you're spraying more and painting less. I have experimented with it a bit, but haven't actually gotten very far in the painting stages, so I can't say much.
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Whoever plays a wizard that looks like that is a boss.
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Catachan heads are the obvious solution. Try one of those or a skull.
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Sykic posted:Turns out I'm awful at making bases that aren't just dirt and grass. How would I make urban debris for this fine fellow? Or failing that, something that looks dangerously rocky?
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IrvingWashington posted:Holy poo poo, everyone is so good. I'm loving the casting experiments.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2021 09:51 |
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Anything that would act like real cloth at that scale would be too flimsy and delicate to work with, and any actual cloth will be too stiff and rough. Even Star Wars action figures with capes looked really silly, and they're at a much larger scale than most miniatures.
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