Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Cyclomatic posted:

Standard bearer from a unit of banes that I just finished.

Getting a non-dark photo is still table flippingly hard.

Get a nice bright white sheet of paper and hold it at an angle in front of the model, but still off camera. You will be amazed how much it lights up the front of your subject.

# ¿ Jan 11, 2014 06:28

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 02:04

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

ijyt posted:

I want to get a lovely Tau flyer just to do that now, what a fantastic idea.

e:

Would it be dumb of me to start painting a model in the evening, if it was primed in the morning of the same day? I've usually given models 24-48 hours after priming, but it always seems to dry much faster than 24 hours.

Depends on your primer and how thick you laid it on but generally it will dry enough to be painted within 30 minutes to an hour. You'll be fine.

# ¿ Jan 16, 2014 13:27

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Lethemonster posted:

http://products.scriblab.de/paintmyminis/

Anyone tried this? It looks amazing (and exactly the kindof thing I super love) but I don't have an iphone.

I had run across that before when it was in development but I guess it's out now. Looks super polished and I had some credit sitting around after a gift card, so I guess my sister got me that for Christmas too. :haw:

Seems like it might be cool to play around with when I'm not painting.

I'll poke around and post my impressions.

# ¿ Jan 17, 2014 02:15

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I just use something like this. It's really cheap, easy, and breaks down fast for moving. Bunch of foam core and some shop lamps. And there's plenty of room for big items and full squads. Hell I could get my whole 40k army in it if I tried.

# ¿ Jan 18, 2014 01:46

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Silver Nitrate posted:

Thanks! That was super helpful. Most of this stuff I have laying around, except for acrylics. I will probably get the Army Painter set, depending on what my hobby store has for sale. I have a couple more general questions:

Why do you guys use acrylics instead of lacquer?
Why is matte paint so much more popular than gloss?

Lacquer is far harder to work with, clean up, can't be readily thinned, and a whole host of other reasons. Sure you painted model cars with it, but trust me, once you learn acrylics you will never go back. Being water based means it can be thinned and so you can glaze, blend, layer, and all sorts of great techniques.

Your second question was answered from a technical standpoint but another reason is because gloss minis look like poo poo. Seriously whenever you gloss coat a mini, God punches an orphan in the dick.

# ¿ Jan 20, 2014 06:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Leperflesh posted:

Watch all these videos, profit thereby: Buypainted channel on YouTube

He glues right over his paint. :wtc:

how does that even work? :psyduck:

# ¿ Jan 22, 2014 04:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Fearless posted:

Plastic glue will melt right through most paints and the plastic underneath to make its bond. I do it all the time too.

What the crap. I never knew that would work. I either mask or scrape paint off before gluing. I'm ... Not sure why ... I ... I think I may have slipped into an alternate universe or something.

# ¿ Jan 23, 2014 04:38

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Pierzak posted:

These rules work for me when it comes to motivation:

1: You must paint. - If you haven't painted anything in the last few days, shut the gently caress up, you don't have the right to complain. Go paint something and then come back.

2. Finish what you start painting. - If you start a model, you must finish it, don't just leave it in a half-painted state that isn't going to be painted or played in months. The model isn't finished until you can varnish it and say "There, that's done, I'm not adding anything more". Yes, that includes the base. Who knows, maybe you'll discover a new color scheme, learn a new technique while fixing that "botched" paintjob, or something.

3. Refrain for repainting, barring extreme circumstances. - When you have a model fully painted (see rule #2), you must not strip/repaint it unless one of the following happens:
- you have no other models left to paint
- you would really enjoy painting this model again for the next few days (remember, stripping+washing+drying isn't instantaneous) AND you're convinced you can do a noticeably better job of it than the existing paintjob
- multiple people seriously (none of that "your paintjob is better than mine so I'll talk trash about it" crap) tell you the paintjob looks like poo poo
- your client requests it (if you're painting for someone else)

4. You must play what you paint. - Go field the painted model on the table, enjoy the look of playing painted minis! Get rewarded with the enjoyment of seeing your troops look better than bare metal, and if you're good and lucky, appreciative comments of other players/observers!

5. Paint something else. - Don't rest on your laurels. Go paint another model. And the next. And the next. The struggle won't end until you have the whole army finished. (and then you'll start the next one anyway )

Did you model ( no pun intended) these after Heinlien's Rules For Writing?

# ¿ Jan 24, 2014 20:53

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Pierzak posted:

Yes.

Excellent. I love them. I think I may print them out and put them over the workbench.

# ¿ Jan 25, 2014 00:52

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Crain posted:

What would be a good source for generic DND style minis? I have a few Hirst Arts molds that I've made some stuff with and want some minis for friends to use when we play. Bones seems like a decent option but there are so many individual models and very few sets available.

Bones is perfect for what you want. Not sure what you mean by "sets" though. They have goblins, kobolds, orcs, etc. you could also try picking up old GW orcs on eBay cheap but it won't help for gnolls and the like.

# ¿ Jan 25, 2014 22:51

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Vulich the Subtle posted:

You only graduate into being a proper wargamer if you have a mason jar or two always filled with some spirit or other.

Right now it's acetone.

I would have to think about it to be precise but I have a space marine who has been soaking in a jar of brake fluid for ... oh, probably 11 years.

It's a long-term science experiment. :science:

The plastic still hasn't melted.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2014 01:21

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Leperflesh posted:

Also, just crack it open, pull out the battery, and buy a replacement from an electronics supply. If you can do some basic soldering, know not to discharge capacitors across your fingers, and it's possible to open it without breaking it, that's a cheap option.

This. The batteries inside are just rechargeable AAs. Or if you are feeling like you don't or can't handle it, take it to a Batteries Plus or Battery Giant (in the us) and they will do it for you much cheaper than replacing the unit.

# ¿ Feb 1, 2014 01:10

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I've been experimenting with scratch-building with styrene while attempting to make my own Gobin chariot for WFB. It's pretty fun, and sort of relaxing, actually. Not as hard as it looks.

(These red spots are my very own blood. I always manage to cut the poo poo out of my fingers while working on Goblins. v :shobon:

Mock-up held together with white-tac.

And a sort of process view of how I have been doing the wheels.

I've also decided to fire up the old warhams blog (linked here). If anyone feels it worthwhile, feel free to follow. (If this shameless self-promotion is frowned upon, I can edit this out).

# ¿ Feb 9, 2014 18:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

selnaric posted:

If that's the case, do us all a favor and don't build a goblin huey hog helicopter.

I am not even kidding when I say I have been thinking about converting one of those little RC helicopters into a Ork Deffcopta. It would probably wind up embedded in my skull.

# ¿ Feb 12, 2014 03:18

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

So I would like to get opinions. My goblin chariot turned out a little too wide for a chariot base, so I have a couple options.

I could leave it a 2 wolf team and expand the base with rocks or whatever. Like so...

OR I could expand the base and make it a 3 wolf team like so...

(Both my hosting)

I hadn't planned to do a 3 up but maybe I could make it a character chariot and then future designs would be 2-ups for the unit of wolf chariots I had been planning. I'm leaning toward the 3 up, does it look dumb, or anything?

# ¿ Feb 16, 2014 23:44

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Wazzu posted:

So I recently painted Reaper's Pathfinder Red Dragon, and apart from having fun painting my first dragon, I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to 'finish' it.

Should I flock the base? Should I go crazy and make a half-red, half-orange mix and highlight the scales up even further?

That's not going crazy, that's finishing the job. :haw:

Seriously push yourself a bit more. If you consider it 'going crazy' it's likely worth doing. Seconding hitting it with a wash though. I would do that first.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2014 04:40

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

VolatileSky posted:

So I don't play 40k much, probably more once I move again, but I do love assembling and painting plastic mans. So I'll be showing what I've been doing, mostly finishing up some touches to my old world eaters, and the new wraith army.

This is for chaos, not spiky yet or terribly grim dark, but its nearing completion. And decent practise on making tanks if I ever decide to make a sister's of battle army, depending if raging heroes ever gets their promised models released.

In progress shots and a question on the scratch built backwards Russ; sponsons, or no sponsons?

Vanilla structure before adding final details. I should probably make an engine assembly to fit onto the back to make painting easier.

I thought the extra paneling was bad, trying to make tiny optics covers and headlights is worse. Next up, raiding the garage for whatever tubing I can find that'll be a decent width. Or maybe I should do what I did with the Hell Prawn and make a crystal tipped barrel with power cabling rather than a giant bore cannon? It would probably tie together the chaos theme if its matched across the vehicles.

Edit: oh god they didn't stop resize I think I broke the table

Edit: I'm only making it worse

Wow, that's some awesome plasticard work!! Love it! I think the sponsons do compliment the bulk of the turret. Of course, you could always magnetize them and thus you can run it either way.

What thickness plasticard are you working with, and what do you use to cut it? I'm always looking for better ways to cut.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2014 13:04

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

VolatileSky posted:

Thanks! I�ll be adding the sponsons once I find the guns, this thing sucked up a lot of my chaos/imperial bits I had laying around

Warning, incoming words:
(snip)

Holy poo poo, thanks for the :words:

! I haven't scratch built anything quite so elaborate, but I am really digging working with the plasticard. It's so much fun but also new to me so I am voraciously reading up on anything having to do with it.

Your work is really good, don't sell yourself short.

I have a feeling that the site you saw with the stalk tank is Dave Taylor's blog. I met him a long time ago at a GT and he spoke very nicely of my Dark Angels. He gave me great advice (and I actually won Best Army with them the next year thanks in no small part to his advice), so I've been keeping up with him ever since. Is this what you saw? http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/search/label/Stalk%20Tank%20Datasheet

# ¿ Feb 18, 2014 03:22

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

VolatileSky posted:

So nearly done the chaos leman russ! I lack the guns for the sponsons and the crystal/ mechanism the main cannon attaches to [can't find anything in the electronics junk drawer], and an engine but that can be made separately as that'll just stick onto the back end. I also have to add a couple hundred rivets... by hand... nearly done!

Size comparison to an OFFICIAL GW RHINO�. The length is nearly identical, I would have extended the chassis if I'd noticed sooner but whatever.

Next up, possibly making dreads but they're not really in the chaos dex so I'm not sure how to go about that.

This is awesome. Please keep postin pics! Do you have a blog?

# ¿ Feb 23, 2014 03:53

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Groetgaffel posted:

The plasticard work is impressive, but I can't get over how the backwards chassis looks wrong to me.
That thing is going to have to reverse over every single trench or large ditch it comes across.
One of the (many) issues with the Tiger tank was that the low ground clearance of the front wheels meant that the tank had troubles traversing rough terrain, like for example trying to drive over a ruined wall.

Are you really arguing realism in 40k? :haw:

# ¿ Feb 23, 2014 15:39

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

PyroDwarf posted:

First time Warhammer painter reporting in.

Overall, I'm happy with how these came out. I got the models off ebay and some were pretty heavily over-glued.

I meant to hit the shoulder pads with a bit of blue wash and the gun with some black and maybe some edge highlighting.

I can see some touch-ups that can be made but other than that, any recommendations? Why did my verdigris weathering turn out so chalky?
It's a mix of Vallejo green wash with a couple drops of Vallejo green ink thinned with some water.

Excellent from a technical standpoint! Either you have some degree of painting/modeling knowledge or you just started out on the very high side of the curve.

What kind of water did you use? Don't use tap water, get distilled. While thinning mediums are better, I used distilled water for a good long while and it was definitely serviceable.

I am not, however, a fan of the blue with that main color. I think if you have to go blue it needs to be darker. Or the bronze needs to be lighter. Also, the blue is too clean and needs to be weathered, but that's kind of getting ahead of yourself.

Good start regardless.

E: obligatory "clean your mould lines."

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Feb 25, 2014

# ¿ Feb 25, 2014 01:20

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

PyroDwarf posted:

What do you recommend for weathering? Do you think going over it with a blue wash would make it dark enough, or should I just use a black one? Would washing the whole fig with say, sepia undo the verdigris effect?

Yeah, I used tap water to thin the shade, so gonna try filtered for the next batch.

I was thinking about edge highlighting with a lighter shade of the base color for the mooks and then using gold for the higher ups.

The figs came based and primed, and I didn't feel like doing the mold lines, as many of the figures are crazy over-glued. There is glue on the models in places that I didn't even think needed glue... I'm trying to get the ones that I got from my battle force box as cleanly built as possible before I prime them.

Washing the blue with a dark blue is the way I would go. Also don't use filtered, you have to get distilled water if you're going to use water. Distilled is nothing but H2O. Filtered water can still have minerals and salts that gently caress up your wash. Oh, also you'll need a drop of dish soap of something to beak surface tension. Going with a medium is less fiddly, however. Depends on how easy it would be to get your hands on. Nearly every grocery has distilled water, though. If you made a very thin wash for the joints it shouldn't ruin your verdigris. Again, test in small locations and see how it looks.

As to weathering, you could either VERY lightly dry brush your base color on the edges to represent scuffing or you could get a little fancier and do chipping by painting a small dark line and hit the edge of it again with your base color. You may want to look up weathering techniques and see what strikes your fancy, and I would recommend doing tests of it before actually painting on your minis. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it right now, and I'd concentrate more on getting more practice (more minis) under your belt first. You can always come back and do weathering later.

I think highlighting the base color would go a long way toward lightening it up.

Don't sweat the mould lines. It's kind of a running gag. Although. When you assemble your own, definitely clean them up. Word of warning - you are going to miss some. Everyone does.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2014 12:57

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

PyroDwarf posted:

A shot of tonight's guys mixed in with the first set. You can hardly tell the difference.

I think using bottled water and an extra drop or two of ink in the wash made the verdigris turn out less chalky this time around.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the bases.

My color scheme is based around this guy's stuff, but I'm not too keen on the edge highlighting he uses.

Seeing my guys on my monitor, I can always find a few spots that need to be touched up...

Awesome! I like the darker blue much better.

# ¿ Feb 26, 2014 04:23

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Indolent Bastard posted:

Perhaps I can be of assistance?

Use Oyumaru Modelling Compound; it's cheap, can be bought in small quantities, it's reusable, and it's non-toxic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz8FwUEFMzY

Get it from ebay or etsy.

This poo poo is loving magic. Do this.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2014 03:26

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

BULBASAUR posted:

I never really though about that. I guess I could carry it onto a plane and stare down anybody who asks about my man dolls. That said, I was hoping to throw it under a plane

I went through US/canada customs once and brought my minis.

Customs Lady: Have any firearms?
Me: nope
Her: You don't have any fire arms?
Me: *slightly confused* Ummm.. No.
Her: Really? Absolutely no firearms or weapons in the car?
Me: :wtf:

No, there are no firearms!
Her: PULL OVER!

So we're waiting in the area while they go through the car and I'm all sorts of confused. I don't own any guns, so I have no loving idea what she was on about. 10 minutes later she comes in with a smirk and says "So what are all those plastic soldier things for anyway?"

And then it dawns on me. The case I had my Dark Angels in is essentially a gun case and it was sitting in top in the back of the car and she could see it in the camera. We laughed and I said, "OH, well if you count little plastic guns, I guess I did have a lot!"

# ¿ Feb 28, 2014 13:04

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Anyone ever splurged and got one (or more) videos from Miniature Mentors? Some of them look interesting, but are they really as long as they say? 7 hours for the photography one? Really?

# ¿ Mar 3, 2014 04:40

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I decided that 2 up wolves on my gobo chariot were probably best, but I still needed a way to deal with it being too wide. So I came up with this. I tried making it up on one wheel as suggested by someone here but it just looked wrong. Also added more small details that are almost completely invisible in the pic.

For the harnesses I tried my hand at sculpting with GS for the first time, though. Ended up not as smooth as I wanted so I added plastic card. I like it.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2014 04:12

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Cooked Auto posted:

I wish I had friends that could work with green stuff decently because I just can't.
Been trying to make an eye patch for my IG Commander for the past hour or so but it just comes out looking like absolute rear end.
Or I just need to get green stuff that isn't the old GW brand from like 10 years ago or something.
Almost glad I've got spares of that particular head because I'll probably need it if I wanna try again.
At least I got some headway in posing the arms which ended up looking decent.

One thing I learned after struggling with GS recently is to mix it up, form it into a basic shape (tube, flat, whatever) and then let it set for 30 minutes to a half hour before working or cutting with it. When it's "fresh" it's very hard to work with.

# ¿ Mar 8, 2014 17:35

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

ineptmule posted:

Which of the standard mixed bag of dremel tools is best for grinding GW plastic?

What is it you are trying to do? Most Dremel grinding tools spin too fast and melt the plastic, so you have to be careful. A jeweler's saw is probably a better idea.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2014 00:06

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I bought a finecast model once. Once.

Greenstuff will fill the gaps just fine, or you could get some Squadron putty which is maybe a little easier to work with.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2014 01:12

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

AndyElusive posted:

These last couple of posts reminds me that I have a couple of staves for Necrons that I need to fix.

What's the best way to fix staffs to clenched fists and what not? Super glue has been a nightmare and isn't working. I'm using Gorilla glue btw. Do I need some other brand? Do I need to pin these things together?

I am in awe. Jealous and envious awe.

You can pin alone, which is fiddly and/or you can find a drill bit that is the same size as the pole or staff and drill yourself an indentation to use, which is much easier.

When you say Gorilla Glue, do you mean actual Gorilla Glue or the Gorilla brand cyanoacrylate glue? If it's the latter that's fine.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Mar 12, 2014

# ¿ Mar 12, 2014 04:02

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Dr. Lenin posted:

I've really got to get better at this. I spent so much more time painting single models in the past that I keep forgetting I have a whole army ahead of me to paint. I really should think more about just getting it all to tabletop quality and save the better work for individual characters.

I should probably buy this as an emote for you guys when I'm all done.

It really is a psychological shift. It's very much like writing - nothing is ever done, you just get tired of improving it and call it "sufficient."

It's a game I play in my head but I say to myself "okay this is good enough for now - I will apply what I learned to the next one and I can come back to this later." And of course I never come back to it.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2014 15:26

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Cooked Auto posted:

So I'm almost done with a set of heavy weapon gun tractors for my IG but I'm kinda uncertain how I want to mount the weapons onto the tractors. Either I just glue them onto the top which means they can't rotate or be swapped or I get some plasticard to cover up the original mounting hole and drill a smaller hole in for the guns to be mounted on so I can swap them out if I so want to.

Magnetize them.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2014 15:38

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

signalnoise posted:

What do I need to do to this guy to make him feel "done"? On my list is 1) gore up the blades, 2) edge highlight, 3) paint the teeth I somehow missed. After that though I always get to this point where I'm not sure what I set out to accomplish but I don't think I found it.

The painting feels flat because it lacks depth. There's only one color (or at least looks like it) on most of the model. It looks like you did some washing or lining, but only on the body. I would wash or line the weapons, and then do some highlighting. Finish up with a matte seal to reduce gloss.

# ¿ Jul 2, 2014 03:18

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

BadLlama posted:

Not sure if this is the best place to post this so please let me know if there is somewhere better.

I want to make a 48x48 inch tabletop that separates into 4 24x24 pieces but can easily be hooked together and placed on top of a table. I don't have enough room to have a dedicated gaming table but I think something like this would work nicely I just don't know where to start.

Easiest way? Assuming you are in the states:

Go to Home Depot. Buy a 4'x4' sheet of plywood (1/2" to 3/4" thick depending on how sturdy and heavy you want). Ask them to cut it into quarters - they'll do it for free. Then ask them for aluminum metal channel trim in a U shape (square, actually) that is the same inner size as the thickness of the plywood. You want two 4' strips. You might have to hack saw it yourself - not sure if they will cut it, but they might.

Now, when you want to play, put the squares together and slip the channel trim on the outside edges. You could even buy a little more trim to clip the other edges together as well. Drape with felt. Enjoy.

If that's still not sturdy enough you could drill some matching holes in each edge and stick wooden dowels of the proper diameter in there to keep it together.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jul 3, 2014

# ¿ Jul 3, 2014 02:46

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

signalnoise posted:

I'm torn on this. I'm doing this sort of as an exercise, using solid colors for shading without blending, with hard contrasts. I did blackline, but yeah it's not really noticeable in the picture probably due to the gloss and the darkness of the purple. So I'll blackline the weapons, sure. For additional color on the body though, do you think it'd be better just to pick out edge highlights, or should I have a middle color between the dark purple and the edge highlight?

Either would be fine, and it depends on what you are going for. A middle color might help make the color look smoother, but hard edge highlighting can also be put to good use and looks good on the table because it really stands out. Up-close it may not look as good as blending, but it does make your color 'pop' and it's generally faster to do.

Example: Here's one of my Dark Angels on which I used edge highlights. On the table it really looks a lot better than it does close up.

And then in use on the battlefield:

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jul 3, 2014

# ¿ Jul 3, 2014 22:02

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Iris of Ether posted:

My only experience with actually using cleaning material like that was with Pine Sol maybe 10 years ago. It sort of worked, but required a good amount of scrubbing with a toothbrush.

I think some goons have also mentioned using, like, motor oil or something similar, but obviously that's harder to dispose & deal with.

Brake fluid. While it is completely safe for plastic (I have a mini in brake fluid going on ... let's see ... 11 years with no ill effect) it actually still requires a fair amount of scrubbing and has to be disposed of like waste motor oil.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2014 01:24

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Taking VERY good pictures will help a lot. Invest good time into flattering photography, don't just snap blurry pics on your table and call it good.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2014 21:10

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Not a viking posted:

They're not THAT good

I'm just saying all it takes is a quick perusing of Craigslist and eBay to see a bunch of idiots using blurry rear end pictures. It's really general advice that works well for selling anything, but doubly so for painted minis - take good pictures. It can help make up for a lot.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2014 15:44

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 02:04

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

signalnoise posted:

Sticking with my Minitaire-oriented posting lately, this paint may have some weird properties, there are some absolutely perfect colors in that line if you're into hazard stripes and danger signs.

I dunno maybe I'm just easily impressed but my Torgue-themed orks are loving this.

Torgue themed orcs.

Why the gently caress did I not think of that. Brilliant!

# ¿ Jul 8, 2014 02:32

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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