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Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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A Tasty Lozenge posted:

Also WiP Flamer chap

God, that paintjob looks so good (even though the highlights need cleaning up) BUT DRILL THOSE GOD drat BARRELS PLEASE

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Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Electricfan posted:

i'm debating weather or not i should bother stripping my unfinished minis before putting on this horrible new dark coat. can you tell which one is the model i stripped and re-primed from the one i just painted over??
the left one was stripped

I'm going to put it this way:

In the upcoming codex in 2 months, supposing hormagaunts get priced appropriately, they'll be worth as much as guardsmen.

Do you want to put forth that much effort to paint guardsmen?

What's more, point cost aside, do you really want to put forth the effort to strip and repaint ALL those identical horde minis?

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Kestral posted:

I've finally settled on a color scheme for my Tyranids, which I am shamelessly stealing from this awesome Trygon:



Unfortunately I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what colors, washes and so on are being used there, and I'd appreciate some help figuring it out as I'm having some trouble replicating it on my test models. It's the flesh areas that are giving me the most trouble, particularly the rich browns between the tendons, joints and exoskeletal ribs, and that peculiar shade of oyster white.

My current best guess - currently untested until after Halloween when I have time to experiment again - as taken from my personal notes on how to paint this style:

Carapace & Claws Main: 70 / 30 Chaos Black / Fortress Grey
Carapace & Claws Highlight: Blood Red (red over black oh god)
Flesh: Bleached Bone basecoat --> Ogryn Flesh wash --> Bleached Bone --> Off-White highlighting, Bestial Brown stripe on appropriate models
Fleshy Bits: Dark Angel Green highlighted with Snot Green

I'll see about getting pictures of the work-in-progress up for critique once the Battleforce arrives and I can get down to painting something more elaborate than Gaunts.

Just google "hive fleet kraken" for various ways to achieve this scheme.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Kestral posted:

Nailed it, thanks BL. For anyone who's interested, the process is detailed in these threads. There only seems to be one snag: every Kraken guide seems to rely heavily on the now-discontinued Flesh Wash. Is there a decent substitute for that anywhere?

Gryphonne Sepia, Ogryn Flesh, or a combination of the two should do the trick.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Arlaharen posted:


your nickelodeon floam is spilling out of the base

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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pointless spam, first non-tyranid 40k model etc







Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Ashcans posted:

If he's been there for a week I don't think its going to get any better. Have you changed the simple green? I usually find it best to put the model into a sealed container (a jar or tupperware) of simple green, and then change it out after a few days if it hasn't moved everything I want gone.

Take an old toothbrush to it. Simple green isn't magic.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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d6 it you greasy nerd

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Boltgun Metal, Badab Black, broad highlight with boltgun, very tippy edge narrow highlight of Mithril Silver

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Somebody post some good kroot, I'm having trouble deciding how to do the skin tone on this one I've got on my desk

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Iron Squid posted:

Is there some kinda requirement that all online "tutorials" feature models shot with a blurry cell pic, and the model itself almost completely in shadows?

What would you like to know? If nobody will give you advice, I will.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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crime fighting hog posted:

My pictures suck but a fast and easy way is half the yellow foundation/half knarloc green foundation for skin, bestial brown for the leather and wash all that poo poo devlan. Looks pretty decent and takes 20 minutes to do an entire squad.

I don't want fast and easy. This, like that karskin sgt, is a single model belonging to a friend of mine that I'm painting for giggles.

Also in the list:
  • GKT (storm bolter and halberd)
  • Ghazghkull
  • SM w/flamer (probably gonna paint it up in space wolves colors)

And of course my backlog of over 350 Tyranid and Eldar minis.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Zarkov Cortez posted:

Beyond searching cmon vv

CMON is a minefield of horribly painted poo poo all voted 9.5 GOLEN DEAMON QUALITY and random NMM chrome-covered skullduggery

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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PaintVagrant posted:

drat man, nice work. Have you wheeled that army out into a game yet?

He can't stop winning tournaments for some reason. It's sick. I'm willing to bet the only reason he hasn't gotten MORE Menoth done is because he's too busy kicking the asses of every Warmachine player in Florida.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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PaintVagrant posted:

enchanted is a bitch mofo of a color to work with.

Start with Necron Abyss.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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PaintVagrant posted:

MWH + sepia!

wait which sepia

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Tervigon brainstorming!


For those of you who aren't familiar with the upcoming Tyranid codex, a tervigon is a heavily-armored, monstrous Synapse creature (HQ or Troops) with an array of psychic powers that constantly gives birth to gaunts over the course of the battle (3D6 gaunts a turn, even if locked in close combat, runs out on doubles or triples).

Of course, there is no model for this monstrosity. The closest is Hydra's "Swarm Tyrant" which lacks the spike launchers of the tervigon and also lacks any notable synaptic features (crests or spikes on the head, mainly).




Also, his design is HUGE. There's no way that thing could fit in a drop pod, at least, the kind I'm planning to make for the rest of my army. Anyway, begin brainstorming.



At first, I really wanted to stay away from Hydra's design. It takes up too much space and the birthing process isn't really the center stage. I tried to put the tervigon in a position that could allow the gaunts to either come out through the thorax in front and be in clear sight, or at least one that is less hidden.



Then, I started trying to find ways to get the gaunts to come out the back. Then, it hit me when my eyes lit upon my armorcast pile across the room. Malefactor.

So, if I place the tervigon on all fours and ridge the back armor, it gives me a less "defenseless" way of portraying the gaunts being birthed out the back. Plus, this means I can use the center pair of arms to grasp the clutch-- the front arms have armor (like the current tyrant guard models) with spike launchers on them (like the malefactor's spike launchers).



I also like the idea of rhino hooves for the back feet. I have to iron out the kinks, first. Suggestions and ideas welcome.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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The Saddest Robot posted:

I couldn't get to sleep on Sunday night and decided to finally get around to the babyphant conversion of a carnifex that I 'started' 3 years ago. 'Started' consisted of cutting off a single hoof on one of the fex's feet and putting everything back in the box. After a night of frenzied chopping, sawing and clipping I ended up with this at 5am. It was originally inspired by Moloch's babyphant on his website but I decided I wanted something more spindly.

Here he is pre-greenstuff with a paint-test guant for scale. I'm pretty happy with him now, the breakthrough for me was when I decided that I needed to extend the first joint of his arms and the 2nd joint of his legs and then everything came together the way I envisioned it.

What's left (aside from the obvious greenstuff in the joints) is to figure out how I am going to curve it's tail under the body and to create some ball sockets for the weapons closer to the underside of it's body. I might also do some work to it's head/neck so I can get it to point forward instead of down.








Simple Green is awesome... for metal models. Paint and primer slides right off. The primer on my plastic models stubbornly refuses to come off and I use my toothbrush so much that I am worried about wearing down the plastic

Scything talons as fex legs looks dumb because they weigh 14 tons and the talons are super thin. They have hooves because nothing else can hold them up.

Either the talons would snap or they'd just sink into the ground.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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MinionOfCthulhu posted:

And there's only four limbs

well gee i'm sorry for telling somebody his stuff looked gay in a thread about showing off our stuff and telling each other what it looks like

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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and if you had asked if i didn't like the legs on the heirophant, i would answer, "no, I do not like the legs on the official fw heirophant model for the same reason."


i gave an opinion and my reasoning for my opinion. you guys need to take a chill pill

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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PaintVagrant made that.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Anphrax posted:

I'm borrowing a buddy's GW sand, but it really feels to me like they grains of sand are too large. Does The Home Depot have sand I can use?

Salt.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Anphrax posted:

Have you used salt before? The things warhams come up with... I would have never thought about using salt! Bah! Thank you

I did try the GW sand, and it didn't come out too bad

I use my leftover salt I had from when I salt-dipped my termagants' tails back in 2008. It's not like I'm going to eat it with the burns and melted plastic and all.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:

I had a cat years ago who drank my rinse water. He loved the taste of Citadel Colour so much, he'd lick the paint residue out of the dish if I forgot to dump it and let it evaporate.




He died of kidney failure. I really hope it wasn't related.

I have some very bad news for you.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Voting time!

I have quickled whittled out a couple sketches to exhibit my ideas:

Here, we have several bonesword concepts. The upper left is a basic outline of the original 2nd edition bonesword's general shape. The upper right are the possible heads of the blade ("spear," "flat," "curve," and "hook"). The bottom right are the possible hilts ("classic," "melded," "wolverine," and "living").

I've basically decided on the hilt, for a specific reason I will detail with the next image.


As you can see, this is a concept sketch of a warrior equipped with a bonesword with the "living" hilt to drive in the concept of, despite it looking like a sword, the sword is simply a bio-weapon bearing an eery resemblance to a human weapon. I altered the hilt of the left-handed bonesword to be a combination of the "wolverine" and "living" hilts.

The reasons I have a lesser bonesword (left hand) and a greater bonesword (right hand) are to match the right-handed nature of Tyranid bio-weapons, and because having a pair of matching swords doesn't account for the ingame effect of slightly increasing the instant death ability of a single sword. If it really were a pair of matching swords, they'd add more attacks, parry, or something else more drastic. I'm comfortable with this arrangement, although the final product will have the lesser bonesword located closer to the wrist (because it kind of looks stunted in my quick sketch).

The questions remain:
Which head(s) do I use for the blades? Both swords don't have to match.
Does the "different hands" concept make sense or look good? Should I just stick with 2 of the same weapon?
Failing the bio-weapon concept, which hilt should I use?


If you have a suggestion that isn't drawn out here, I'm all ears.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Fix posted:

I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops.

Do you tend to find it's better to muscle through and finish that goal, or do you have some way to get the juices flowing again?

Just start painting, and eventually you'll get comfortable doing it. I know I'm in a bit of a funk at the moment, but once I get started working things tend to solve themselves. I get X block all the drat time, and that's the only advice I can offer that really works.



Continuing the "Tyranids without models" theme.


Our next exhibit is a collection of mycetic landing spores.

Let me try to explain what you're looking at...

(clockwise)

The black landing spore is lovingly known as the "Lavos Spawn" model, and is the exact type used in the Casavant Prime GD Toronto table:

(not mine)
I prefer the idea of Tyranids being crustacean (as opposed to insectoid) with the additions of skin, central nervous systems, closed circulatory systems, and whatnot. The clamshell design reinforces that theme, plus these are the exact paint scheme I'm going to use.

Design pros:
Easy to construct.

Aesthetically pleasing.
Huge, grants cover saves like whoa.

Design cons:
Done before.
Where the hell do I put the tentacles and bio-weapons? This is important, as I want to be WSIWYG with my landing spores.
Size borderlines on "abusive modelling for ingame benefit."


The blue landing spore is what I call the "rafflesia" model for its flowerlike structure.

The outer shell is basically a series of petals that unfurl upon landing. The outside of the petals is rough and heatshielded, the inside contains Tyranids and the actual landing spore creature.

The landing spore center houses a bulbous protrusion with a gigantic eye on top and 6 tentacles coming out (2 reasons: "tentacle" assault 6 shooting weapon with 6" range, and tyranids have 6 limbs). It will be just shy of a warrior in height, enabling enough space to accomodate a carnifex in the pod while keeping the size equivalent to an Imperial drop pod.

Design Pros:
loving disgusting.
WSIWYG.
Not terribly hard to construct in comparison to the next 2 models.

Design Cons:
When it's open, it really short. I've wasted an opportunity to make make a model that can grant helpful cover saves.
When it's open, it has a HUGE loving footprint unless I specifically mark off what portions count as the "body" for purposes of weapon range.
When it's halfway open (I have to model several pods, so each pod will be in differing states of open-close) it's borderline abusive in terms of model size.



The green landing spore is the "basic" model.
It's follows the same design principle as the Forgeworld Tyranid brood nest model.


Creatures rip out of the sides through the thin skin covering the various exits.

Design Pros:
Absurdly easy to make the basic shape.
Gets the point across.
Every possible one will grant a cover save.

Design Cons:
Honestly? It's kind of boring.
I basically have to make different pods for each individual species that each pod houses, because how the gently caress is a carnifex going to rip through a termagant hole?
Huge.
Where the HELL do I put the tentacles?
Forming the details are going to be a federal pain in the neck and also require precious other models.


And now, for my personal favorite, the red "Martian dreadclaw" design.

Before we continue, let me explain the dreadclaw and how it works.


The dreadclaw is a Chaos drop pod.


Unlike Imperial drop pods, the dreadclaw's exit is on the bottom of the model. How does this work?


Well, the dreadclaw has extending legs that stand up and allow the free motion of the disembarked CSM.



These 6 images depict the most disgusting landing spore concept I could conjure.

First, the landing spore has a powerful shock-absorbing shell on the bottom that also functions as a partial heat shield. Other heat shields are on the sides. Upon landing, the shell disconnects from the landing spore. The side-mounted heat shields fold open and long tentacles come out, raising the landing spore. Finally, the sphincter on the bottom of the spore (but protected by the shell at first) opens, dropping the contained models into the discarded shell, ready for battle.

The bottom left image depicts a doodled detail of the tentacle erected, the heat shield having folded down. I only included 3 standing tentacles, allowing me the freedom to include more tentacles for defensive purposes eventually. The final two images depict the opening of the sphincter on the bottom of the spore.

Design Pros:
ABSOLUTELY loving DISGUSTING.
Totally WSIWYG.
Can transport any model without trouble.
The various stages provide variety without providing varying levels of line-of-sight interference.

Design Cons:
I can't model these in clay unless I find a way to triple-reinforce the legs or the standing models will snap.



Cast your votes!

Broken Loose fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Jan 9, 2010

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Trygon Prime, day 2:


I'm almost halfway done!

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Sole.Sushi posted:

Why are you doing the head separate? Is there some kind of deep, nigh-unpaintable niche behind where the head goes?

Yeah, the entire recess where the head goes is unreachable (but slightly visible) with the head in, plus the back half of the head is nearly impossible to get at. I'm already kind of regretting attaching the top torso, but I've otherwise erred on the side of caution.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Gravitas Shortfall posted:

Whoah, an actually good modelling article on BoLS?

http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2010...riors-with.html

That's because it's a copy/paste of one of Hive Fleet Hydra's modelling posts from Warpshadow. Which would be like copy/pasting one of PaintVagrant's posts from here (because neither of them are BoLS contributors).

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Gravitas Shortfall posted:

That is loving awesome.

Anyone got any suggestions / tutorials for sculpting armor plates like the ones on the tail of the Trygon? I want to spruce up my Tervigon's tail once the basic shape is finished.

http://album.warpshadow.com/v/Hydra/broodfive/tutorial/

Copy/paste into your browser.

In other news, Hydra finished his HQ tervigon.










MSP's right. These scratchbuilt and kitbashed monsters are way better than any GW could have released. Too bad they require so much work.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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crime fighting hog posted:



overrun by tau making me want to pry my eyeballs out

E: That's Alien 3 playing btw

rofl who still uses windows xp

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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crime fighting hog posted:

This reminds me: Trygon people, did you put the model on the base then sand it or the other way around?
I test fit the trygon on the base, marked off where it would be, then based it separately from the model.

PierreTheMime posted:

Yeah, I may add a shrubbery or two. All of my Tyranid are based on a generic happy green-field with rocky soil to add a splash of natural color and "pleasantness" to the otherwise terrifying monster.
I really wish you'd paint your sand, it kind of ruins the piece. Looks great otherwise, though.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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MasterSlowPoke posted:

It looks like you took a bunch of sand and glued it to the base. Painting it adds depth to make it a more convincing ground.

That's the thing, it looks like sand. Specifically, sand for giant people. I recall there was somebody earlier in the thread who had an excellently painted dread with regular sand that looked okay, but once he painted the sand the whole thing turned amazing.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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It was recently discussed in the Warmachine thread. Basically, unless you want an "instant computer crash" virus installed, don't go to EoW.

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Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

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Fuuck, my eCaine came with an extra bullet effect but not pipes. I guess I just won't paint him for a while (I was thinking of picking up another eCaine for the base).

That doesn't really help my huge mental block, though. Does anybody have any good recommendations for leather? For instance, PV, how did you do the leather on the Krieg you did for that commission?

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