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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

nm I'm dumb

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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Have fun gluing the fins to the center turbine thing when they have just one tiny rear end contact point, while getting it lined up just right so that the doors close properly, oops it just came unglued at the bottom ughhhh gently caress drop pods

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

One at a time is iffy, because if they dry in the wrong position the doors won't close right (e.g. my first pod). It's hard to explain but you'll see when you start putting it together.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Here's his paint recipe, which I guess is pretty much the same thing. I use it to great effect on my orks.

[quote]boltgun metal
-badab wash
-water down foundation orange paint, mix w/medium if you have any, apply it to the recesses
-drybrush boltgun
-devlan mud everything
-drybrush mithril
-thin edge highlights w/mithril[quote]

The orange paint is where you get your rust, so depending on what you're doing feel free to apply it all over and in multiple coats if necessary. Also it will look like crap until the devlan mud goes on, so don't freak out.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I'm willing to bet if you flew him out to Hawaii he'd paint some stuff for you. God knows I would.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Definitely agreed re: GW primer. I got some when I was tired of trying to deal with other brands that get skunky too easily, or the nozzle clogs, or whatever. Obviously the GW stuff is wildly overpriced, but it covers very well, has a richer black color than all the others I've tried, and is less prone to skunking. The extra money is almost worth it just to avoid headaches.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

That's pretty pimp, and perhaps more importantly, it looks like it'd be easy to knock out a bunch of dudes quickly using that scheme. Devlan Mud definitely owns. In fact I'm waiting for a wash of it to dry on my looted wagon right now. I still think BADABBLACK is better/more important than DELVAN but it's pretty close.

Now base him!

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Anyone have any suggestions for weathering part of my looted wagon? I painted some white and blue checks (skull white and enchanted blue to be exact) but they're too bright and clean. I'm not sure a wash would work well- maybe some kind of drybrush over all the checks?

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Fyrbrand posted:

Ok I've got a big backlog of stuff to paint over xmas break and I can't really decide what I want to do. So I'll be a typical goon and let internet strangers decide.

Should I paint:

a) 9 lootas + KFF mek
b) looted wagon converted from basilisk
c) magnetized predator/razorback/rhino
d) 10 TH/SS terminators + swappable bits for 5 shooty terms
e) ironclad dread
f) bike squad + attack bike

I'd like to get through at least two of these choices before january but seeing as I have a dissertation to work on I won't exactly being swimming in free time for warhammery.

removed dead image link

This was really fast and easy to do once I just sat down and did it. I'm kinda ehh at the result- I think there's too much blue going on. Also I can't find the gretchin I was going to include working the gun and firing from a gun port. Maybe they'll help add some color whenever I find them.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Feb 3, 2015

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Aranan posted:

What. What? You're no deffskull, get (git) out!

Good point. I take it back. And MSP- that ork head is easily my favorite part of the whole model. He cracks me the hell up for some reason.

Edit:

a) 9 lootas + KFF mek
b) looted wagon converted from basilisk
c) magnetized predator/razorback/rhino
d) 10 TH/SS terminators + swappable bits for 5 shooty terms
e) ironclad dread
f) bike squad + attack bike

Any votes for the next project? (None of these will go anywhere near as quickly as the wagon did unfortunately.)

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Nov 30, 2009

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Angryboot posted:

That one. Because I still need to finish mine.



Stupid pool rings around that chest scroll; guess I shouldn't water down them ink after all. Need to fix that slop mark next to the seal on its right leg too but over all it didn't turn out too badly. Plus hey, I've only been painting a week short of 2 months. At least I got the most scroll heavy space hulk piece out of the way finally.

EDIT: better pic.

Jesus christ man, these are fantastic. If I could make one suggestion, it'd be to try doing some scorching effects on the heavy flamer. It's easy enough to do- heavy drybrush of shining gold over about the front half or so of the nozzle, then drybrush scorched brown then black as you get closer to the tip. If you feel like it, you can do intermediate steps mixing the brown/black paints before drybrushing.
Obviously I'm biased but I think it looks p cool.

MasterSlowPoke posted:

You've got 6 options there, there's an obvious way to decide.

Yeah that was silly of me not to notice. The die tells me I'm working on my Ironclad, which is probably the least useful thing on that list but also the most fun so woot.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Nov 30, 2009

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

For swapping special weapons, just glue them to the arms and magnetize that. Way simpler.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Iron Squid posted:

I'm sure I could find this with a little google-ing, but I'd like some of your opinions:

I'm about to paint my first set of Space Marines and Orks. Is there a step-by-step tutorial on painting each? I don't mind my first set being a paint-by-numbers kinda thing. I just want to make them look good, and see what the different steps (washing, drybrushing, etc) do.

Try this dude. He primes grey, while most people around here use black, but he does a good job showing every single step. He even does decals in this one, which owns.

The one I linked is Ultramarines but he has a few other tutorials in there as well.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

If it wouldn't involve months of work I would honestly strip and redo all my Salamanders using his method.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Yeah, you want to dilute your paints pretty much always.

He did the brown first because metallics can be weird about coverage. The brown helps with that, and also provides shading. If you notice, the gold only went on the raised areas. The recesses are still brown.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Cool pre-heresy guide here if anyone is interested. I got it from the Tuesday Top Ten which actually has pretty cool poo poo in it every week and is worth checking out.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Nearly had heart failure last night when I was sealing my looted wagon. I thought the gloss or dullcote had skunked and was gonna ruin the whole thing. Luckily a couple more coats of dullcote seemed to make things right. But still, goddamn. What a way to ruin a model after all that work.

(Insert pic of my first Vindicator here )

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

!amicable posted:

Taste it.

If it tastes salty, you have cancer. Sorry.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer



This model is pretty drat sweet.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Sweet salamanders but holy poo poo mold lines

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Found a decent drop-pod hazard stripe tutorial here if anyone is interested.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Get cheapass dreamhost domain, download this, never worry about hosting bullshit again.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

GF9 makes a set that I'm pretty happy with. The Warstore probably carries them, or your LGS if they stock GF9 stuff.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Angryboot posted:

Gah I need to get a god drat airbrush. Basecoating is taking forever and I still have 9 terminators left > Stupid Christmas and saving up for other stuff.

Has anyone here used that cheap setup from harbor freight? Is it good enough for basecoating? 80 bucks for this compressor and this brush kit seems like a good price since I'm not planning on doing anything detailed with it.

That's exactly what I bought, and why I bought it. It's great for basecoating. Just be prepared to have to clean the brush often, as it gets clogged easily. I basecoated a Vindicator, Predator, LR Redeemer, ~20 infantry, a Dreadnaught, and 3 droppods in about 20 minutes. Took me longer to set up the brush and tear it back down/clean it, in fact.

Picture whoring:


Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Wasted some time skimming the painting section of warseer and B&C, and it seems like everyone is doing black base rims all of a sudden, instead of graveyard earth or whatever. I might be biased but I think that's actually a pretty cool trend- the black really helps a base pop in my opinion.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Come to south Florida and get people here to play.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Pretty good posts on this page here, let's keep it up.

That diorama owns- especially that acetate/plexi or whatever the gently caress sign.

Edit: missed this.

MinionOfCthulhu posted:

Whereabouts in South Florida are you?

I'm in Fort Lauderdale. Actually I think we talked on aim like a year or two ago. If you ever feel like checking out Tate's (you should, the main comic store especially owns) let me know.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Dec 17, 2009

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Current WIP pics since I haven't had a chance to airbrush the Ironclad:




The terminator is that free WD one from ages ago, figured it was a good way to get rid of the assault cannon I had laying around.

Trying to figure out what to do for the trim on the bikes. I was originally thinking gold, but now I'm thinking black would be better, maybe save gold for the sergeant or just skip it altogether. Any opinions?

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

argh no more lizardmen so tempted ughhhh

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer




I am really out of practice with my marines. Forcing myself to at least try doing basic edge highlights. Sloppy, but hopefully I'll get better.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

PaintVagrant posted:


enchanted is a bitch mofo of a color to work with.

Maybe for you, sucka

j/k I just cheat with mine so it doesn't count.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

MasterSlowPoke posted:

If you live in the US, go to a Dollar Tree and pick up a toothbrush and some "LA's Totally Awesome", it's piss yellow and in the cleaning supplies section. Let the dudes soak in the stuff for a day or two, then take them out and scrub under running water. The paint and most of the primer should come off, a little bit left behind isn't a big deal.

Before:



After:




Bonus nurglesque action shot:

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

PaintVagrant posted:

I usually paint for about 2 hours, take a break, come back...on a long day Ill end up painting for like 8-10 hours over a 12 hour period

This is my preferred method, but since I have to use our dining room table it doesn't last that long. I choose to blame my slow output on this fact.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Every year I and some frends see a nightmare before christmas by tim burton as a chrismas tradisjon. And every time we say that it would be realy cool to make a punking king army!

How about it? We could use the nurge-deamon prince and mod his head and paint his body and his newly modded head as a pumpking. Regular Marines and and terminators can have pumkings for head. A dreadnought could be a giant pumpking with legs and claws and cannon. You could have a hero that rides a bike and has a cut of pumpking (his head!) in his hands.

What do you think? And would it be doable? :-)

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

MinionOfCthulhu posted:

So which of these sealers should I buy? Testor's Dullcote or Glosscote? Or both?

Get both- seal with glosscote for protection, then will dullcoat to kill the shine. Dullcote alone isn't that great. Buy at a 2-1 or 3-1 ratio of dull to gloss: in my experience it takes 2 or 3 coats with dull to really kill the shine.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

This is a long shot, but does anyone have these arm bits available to trade/sell? I especially need the right arm bit.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

FirstCongoWar posted:

Probably more than you want to pay, but http://www.thewarstore.com/product50328.html

they have the left arm + weapons too.

I won that axe, sword, and stormbolter on ebay actually, without thinking to check warstore first. Sigh. Thanks though.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Ideally you should use both. Wait until you're totally done painting and basing- the sealant will make your bases pretty much rock solid. First spray with a layer of gloss. Once that completely dries, spray on the dullcote. You may need more than one coat. I've had to do as many as 3 or 4 if I go too heavy with the gloss.

If you plan on using decals, do them after gloss, let dry, then do a little more gloss over top before moving to dull. The gloss helps it adhere much better and will help hide the transfer paper.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

That dragon is really looking great man, keep it up!

In other news:


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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

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