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Holy poo poo saurus spears are seriously dangerous. I've already stabbed myself hard enough to bleed pretty good, and I've only assembled 5.
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Dec 29, 2009 00:25
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Jesus christ
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Dec 29, 2009 19:43
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crime fighting hog posted:I like it so far but I'd lose one of the wolf pelts on the front. I can dig the whole wolf motif but a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though. Thirding this. I think if you got rid of one of the pairs of wolf tails or whatever you'd be good. I'd suggest removing the pair on the chassis over the pair on the banner. I'm not crazy about the claws on the powerfist but I get why you did it.
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Dec 31, 2009 06:23
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White primer can go to hell.
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Jan 1, 2010 04:59
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PaintVagrant posted:did you ever get that worked out? did you shake then stir? I did shake30/stir30 for about 3 minutes, waited until it was a little cooler, and sprayed lighter coats from a little farther. Still totally skunked. I guess I got a bad can. It's not old though- the lgs just started stocking the stuff.
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Jan 1, 2010 15:58
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Wasn't someone here looking for Red Corsairs pics? Pretty decent stuff here.
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Jan 2, 2010 04:19
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Airbrushes make me woot a little. Did that in about 2.5 hours. At least an hour of that was putting on a removing silly putty masking and another 30-40 minutes on having to stop and clean the cheap brush.
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Jan 2, 2010 20:52
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Shallow your orks are pretty much much my favorite but if I could offer some criticism it would be that your bases are a bit bland for those awesome models. I think you need to start with a darker base coat and use more contrasting colors when your drybrush. I'd also suggest static grass for some color but that probably wouldn't fit the urban scheme you seem to have there. Edit: Anyone here care to recommend a white primer other than Army Painter? Waste of  that was.
Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 05:09
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Yeah I stirred the poo poo out of it all three times I tried it, no dice. I've gotten pretty pro at priming in this lovely humidity down here so I'm gonna tell myself it's the paint, not me. MSP, I'll give that a shot, thanks. I really don't want to resort to buying GW's stuff if I can help it.
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Jan 3, 2010 06:47
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Iron Squid posted:How do you guys do fine detail work without paint going everywhere? When I was doing the gold trim to my Chaos Space Marines, I would wind up with gold going onto the black or red of the armor. I would retouch these spots with the appropriate colors, only to discover I got some of this paint back onto the gold. Practice. Also I think I read it here or maybe it's a quote I saw in some GW publication, but the gist of it was that mini painting is more about an ability to recognize and fix your mistakes rather than an natural talent or whatever (although obviously that helps). Maybe someone without a lovely memory can provide said quote.
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Jan 4, 2010 22:55
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MSP: (Or anyone else for that matter) Is your duplicolor white spray a little "runny" and/or come out very thin at first? I picked some up and just tried it. My usual quick sprays back and forth weren't really doing anything, and the only way to really get any paint on there was to spray it directly for a second or two. Also the paint that did get on there was sort of runny and pooling in places. The black duplicolor I got did none of those things, and actually worked pretty well. I'm also priming in much colder weather than I'm used to, as in below 60F, so maybe that's playing a role?
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Jan 5, 2010 00:19
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PV I tried your gold method and even with 3 washes of sepia it still didn't look right. Do you thin your washes or anything?
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Jan 5, 2010 21:01
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Iron Squid posted:
Duplicolor has a rust red primer that may or may not work depending on how bright a red you're going for. PaintVagrant posted:Nope. What were you using it on? It works much better on smaller areas than large flat ones I tried it on the detailing near the blade on a saurus spear as well as the little bracelet thing on its spear arm. I'll see if I can get a pic of it later.
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Jan 5, 2010 23:19
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Good call, Just as you said they had it in the automotive section of Walmart. Just got done sending my smurfs into Nurgles bubble bath. Hopefully by this weekend they will be ready to get repainted. You got it man. No need to dilute it.
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Jan 6, 2010 00:05
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Just broke down and ordered some Series 7s because I can't deal with these lovely local art store brushes anymore fukkkkk
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Jan 7, 2010 04:29
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It's been long enough that I've forgotten how much I hate working with metal models. ughhh
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Jan 8, 2010 05:54
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Jan 10, 2010 05:57
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Anyone here want a CSM demon prince? It's got excess glue on it here and there and inexplicably has two right hands and no left hand. I got it in the first lot of stuff I got off craigslist, but I don't feel like ebaying it. Say, $8 shipped, mostly to cover shipping?
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Jan 11, 2010 22:53
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CyberLord XP posted:Done, can you get PM's? Sure can. PM me your info and I can hopefully get it out tomorrow.
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Jan 11, 2010 23:52
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Space marine scout heads are the worst heads
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Jan 12, 2010 04:15
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I was going to suggest red bolter casings too. The black is definitely not working.
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Jan 12, 2010 04:34
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I went ahead and gave red bolters a try, when I get the rest of my paints I'll try the bleached bone on the chest wings. I think its a lot better, the black was too much black for the color scheme. The red is definitely an improvement. Personally I think magnetizing basic troops like that is pretty overkill (no offense Fix) but to each his own.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:21
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If you're going to get 1/8" diameter, get some of the 3/32" thickness ones too. They'll probably be too thick for some things but when you can use them, they'll be much stronger. For example, 1/16" thickness is doable (sort of) for power armor marines, like a sergeant with swapable PF/power weapon, but is too weak for terminator arms. 3/32" holds my TH/SS arms pretty solidly.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:28
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The item listing says "Approximately 1/8" x 1/16" thick" but in the pic it looks thicker than that, so you'll probably be ok.
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Jan 13, 2010 04:07
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Ok since my Series 7s came in yesterday, anyone want to tell me how best to take care of them? I have a routine for cleaning brushes but don't really know if I'm doing it right. Now that I have actual good brushes I want to do it correctly.
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Jan 14, 2010 18:33
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stabbington posted:The Masters' Brush Cleaner owns, and a big tub of it will last you literally forever. I have one from 15 years ago that is still 2/3rds full. You just reminded me I found a little sample sized container of it at an artist supply place. I totally forgot I bought it, but it must be hanging around somewhere in my nerd closet. Even that tiny little thing would last me a year or two.
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Jan 14, 2010 20:49
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Loving it, especially those daggers, PV. Also here is a new vindicator I finished:    Stupid side decal gave me so much trouble for some reason, and is still not quite right. Just gonna deal with it.
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Jan 18, 2010 05:58
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Shallow posted:This is really sweet. Thanks dude. I would kill for a bits pack like that. Someday maybe... 
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Jan 19, 2010 01:29
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I decided to make a simple display board for my army I'll be playing in a tournament next week. I still need to buy something for the sides so it has a lip going all the way around, but I made good progress tonight. Insides of the cut-out holes are messy since I glued sand/ballast down after gluing the top and bottom board pieces together, when I should have kept them separate. The models still fit down inside though.
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Jan 19, 2010 05:08
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I bought a pack of two Elmers 20x30" foamboard from Walmart. I cut holes in one board then glued them together. The thickness of the board almost perfectly matches the base thickness. It fits my 2250 point army, but barely: I actually thought of getting custom framing stuff, but I'm trying to do this on a tight budget. I might just buy some more foamboard and cut+glue it. It'll make the whole thing light as hell, but easy to damage. I could always go back and redo it when I have more time and money. Edit: In case anyone is wondering, the tournament has a weird tiered structure in 750 pt blocks, where we won't know which of two blocks we'll get for game 2, but must include block 1. Low pts and trying to keep a balance = weird unit choices here and there. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jan 19, 2010 |
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Jan 19, 2010 05:37
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If anyone here makes a board out of foamcore like I did, glue it to something rigid like mdf first. Mine has some serious warping in it. I can probably make do for the tournament Sunday but it still kinda looks poo poo.
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Jan 20, 2010 07:37
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Old metal bolter sponsons on the LR Crusader. And the pintle multi-melta too, come to think.
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Jan 21, 2010 18:35
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Sole.Sushi posted:loving primer.
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Jan 23, 2010 08:00
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Rebasing/redoing decals/touching up paint on my entire army seemed like a great idea at the time but jesus christ kill me 
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Jan 24, 2010 05:18
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Fyrbrand posted:Rebasing/redoing decals/touching up paint on my entire army seemed like a great idea at the time but jesus christ kill me  Sleep = overrated
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Jan 24, 2010 11:31
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No seriously, gently caress white primer. I give up on that poo poo.
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Jan 30, 2010 03:29
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PaintVagrant posted:Does it make you feel better that I primed your genestealers today with armory white spray in 16 degree weather? 
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Jan 30, 2010 03:37
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Honestly I want you to do whatever you think looks best. I like letting professionals do their thing without too much interference. Of course I say that, but actually it occurs to me, there's some nids holding terminator helmets. I'd *like* the helmets to be from Blood Angels but would that be too much red?
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Jan 30, 2010 03:45
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Go with what you think looks best. I'll try to avoid being a complete manders fag. (Joke's on me, it's too late.) In other news the hobby store I get my supplies from started carrying Tamiya military kits. I picked up a 1/35 scale WW2 German halftrack. Holy poo poo is this model fiddly and detailed, especially for $14. Gonna try to make it into a looted wagon or counts-as trukk.
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Jan 30, 2010 03:59
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 00:14 |
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Always awesome to see you post finished poo poo PV, but it's extra awesome this time.   
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Jan 31, 2010 04:53
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