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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

Painted up another one of the 1989 captains for use in my Ultramarines - I figure in games where I want to use someone cheaper than Sicarius and use that cool relic bolter, he'll be a good model:







And some detail shots:



I thought I'd try doing up a sergeant banner, but I'm not crazy about it:


These own, you own, everything owns.

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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

The base model is Captain Cato Sicarius, the open hand is from the Terminator Librarian kit I imagine, and the head and weapon look like something third party, maybe Kromlech or Maxmini.

Agreed. SRM knows his man dolly parts.

Also that is a sick rear end red on that armor.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

Baking soda yellows over time. For snow, I mix up a 50/50 mix of Gale Force Nine snow and PVA glue, with a few drops of water. It'll end up like toothpaste kind of. I spread that over an area that I've already painted white, and then sprinkle loose snow on top of that. It ends up like this:

This technique sounds awfully familiar. Hrmery.

SRM posted:

And speaking of Ultramarines, just banged this out:





And this owns bones.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I'm no PV but I'd say that limiting yourself to only one line is silly, as is completely refusing to use another. I've transitioned over to P3 for the most part, but still use plenty of GW paints. Their new black is indeed awful, as are their metallics in my opinion (pouring out a virtual 40 for my bro Boltgun Metal). But their washes and glazes are excellent. There are other shades I still use, including the new graveyard earth, for example. I haven't tried the new technical paints, but they seem good from what I've seen and heard. Otherwise, I use P3 since I like the consistency much more, and they have some really interesting shades you don't really see in most other paint lines. Every painter should have Menoth White Highlight, for example. Easily the best paint for mixing highlights that I've come across. I also really enjoy Arcane Blue for super cheat-mode glowy/magic style effects.

PV will come in and talk about his weird hipster paints that he buys in dark alleys in St. Louis, or some poo poo.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

serious gaylord posted:

This.

Just using one brand is silly. I love VMA, but they lack the more 'out there' colours that mean I still turn to GW's layer paints for. Similarly with P3 menoth white highlight is almost mandatory.

I will disagree on the metallics though. I still prefer GW's golds and bronzes over anything thats not alcohol based.

Yeah their gold/bronze range might still be ok. It's been awhile since I've looked at them. I'm mostly just bummed out at the new silver metallics. In partcular Leadbelcher, I think it's called? Hot garbage compared to Boltgun. The other shades didn't seem any better.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Can someone remind me what that new hotness gold paint is? I remember a lot of discussion of it here at one point. I think it's alcohol based or something? Vallejo? Totally drawing a blank for some reason.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

That's the stuff, thanks dudes.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Some assorted Trollbloods stuff I've painted over the past few months:

Fennblade Kithkar:


Storm Troll:



Trollkin Warders:




Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

enri posted:

How are you doing your skin? I've tried a few different methods and there's nothing I'm really happy with, yours looks pretty neat

Thanks man. It starts with a white primer. I then apply a somewhat thin basecoat of Trollblood Base, then wash it with old GW Asurmen Blue. Unfortunately that's super hard to find, though I lucked into a stash of 6 bottles awhile back. I hoard it like a miser. Anyway. I think the new GW blue wash is nice but far too dark. There are probably other suitable replacements for the Asurmen out there though.

After that I reapply the basecoat. Highlights are done by adding progressively greater amounts of P3 Frostbite (not Trollblood Highlight) to the Trollblood base. If I'm going all out with highlights, I'll start adding MWH towards the end for the extreme highlights.

That's the basic recipe (props to pro painter and e-celeb PaintVagrant for originally showing it to me), but I vary it to get slightly different shades. For example, infantry basecoats often start with some Frostbite already added, since I like beasts to be a bit darker than infantry. Sometimes I'll throw some Trollblood Highlight in there just to be different, but I'm not crazy about it.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

enri posted:

You lost me at white primer Black prime all the things! Thanks though, good info and I may just give it a try out on a spare model regardless of the white undercoat. The favourite method I've tried so far was the one they used on brushthralls years back, but it's extreme effort and requires far too much mixing of paints for my tastes - it's nice to give the larger guys some love like that but for rank and file chaps... much less so, it's also a pain in the arse getting colours to match (mixing two colours together consistently is fine, getting the ratio right for mixing three colours is a whole new ballgame and I'm too lazy to mix up batches and put them in bottles)

Oddly enough I found my pot of asermen blue just the other night, I only have a trickle of it left so that's out the window. I think army painter are doing a range of different coloured washes now along with their badab black / devlan mud'esque washes they put out a while back, though I've not seen anyone do a comparison of the 'old' new GW washes vs army painter coloured washes.

Trust me, try white primer. Once you get used to it, it'll set you free! To think I spent years painting snot green marines over black primer,

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Khorne Flakes posted:

Slowly getting back into Warmachine and my desire to paint is finally back. Playing a completely new game system with different models is so invigorating to hit the paints again. Grabbed some Kriel Bearer's the other day and started this blind tonight with nothing really in mind when it came to a pattern.





This is legit man, gj.

SRM as always your stuff owns as well.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Skarsnik posted:

Shokk Attack Gun incoming:







This owns, you own, everything owns.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

New Trollblood mandollies:

Horgle Ironstrike



Pyre Troll



More pics here if you're interested.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Weirdo posted:

Just out of curiousity, how do painting commissions usually work? I've got a lot of free time...

Don't do it for the money. You'd make more per hour at McDonalds.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Fuegan posted:

Looking for a bit of advice on what I could add to these guys (if anything). I'm trying to get through them pretty quickly so I'm going for the FW approach of weathering instead of excessive edge highlights, but I'm not entirely sure they're quite "complete" yet. Anyone got any cool weathering techniques they've used before? (Also I know the bases are dull. I'm yet to decide what to add to them.)



The other suggestions are great, but I'll +1 adding something to the bases to break up all that tan. If you could get the eye lenses painted in a red or yellow that would look cool too, but not sure how that works with that style helmet.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Dammit I almost want to paint some Salamanders mans now,

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

That squig targeter is loving great.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

SRM = best painter/poster.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

BULBASAUR posted:

Thanks to this thread I got a big boy lightbox to replace my baby homemade one. If you've ever wondered what kind of difference lighting + background makes, here you go:

What specifically are you using for the lighting? My photo tent kit came with lighting, but it's garbage.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Testing new photo setup with some quick and dirty Cyclops Savages.



Edit: more testing. Trollblood Scattergunners + Unit Attachment.






Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Aug 5, 2014

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

More lighting tests. This time a big mek stompa I converted and painted up a couple years ago.







Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I have to agree with berzerkmonkey. I love everything about that model except the cloak.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

TheOneOutside posted:

Did you use sponges for the blue?

Sorry, missed your question. No sponges for the blue, just haphazardly slapping it on with a big cheap brush. I did use sponges for all the weathering though.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

VGC Sick Green is just their copy of GW's old Snot Green, so yeah that would be a pretty good alternative.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Bought these at GenCon 2010, figured I should finally get them painted before I go back this year.





Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Acceptableloss posted:

Those are awesome and would make sweet objective markers if they fit on 50mm bases.

Who makes those?

I got them from the Armorcast booth. I'm at work now, but I'm pretty sure they're a little too big to fit on 50mm bases. I can confirm tonight though.

Edit: Here they are.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 13:09 on Aug 7, 2014

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I've been having an issue with my Testor's lately. I'll spray as thin/light a coat of gloss as I can. I let that dry 24 hours. But then I can spray the dullcote on for up to 6+ layers, and still have the model looking shiny. I let the model dry for at least 12 hours, usually 24, between each application of dullcote. I also shake the hell out of the cans for a couple of minutes. Still have the problem. This has happened in the past too. Possibly I've been unlucky getting bad cans, but maybe I'm doing something wrong?

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I'm about to just say gently caress it, buy another cheap harbor freight airbrush, and just use that to seal my models.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Hi here are some old Trollbloods models (plus one Minion) re-shot in a proper photo setup.

Dire Troll Blitzer:


Rok:




War Wagon:








Lanyssa Ryssyl:

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Skarsnik that ork owns bones.

Edit: Skorne battlegroup I finally got finished and sealed.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Finished up Dozer & Smigg for my Trollbloods tonight. Super fun model to paint.







Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Finish 4 models in my backlog, build 14 more. This is living.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Aww I remember that guy. Pretty sure it was the first HQ model I ever painted. I know I did him in black so I could practice for the jump pack chaplain I really wanted to do after. ~memories~

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Just finished a character unit for my Trollbloods, the Sons of Bragg.

Group shot:


Rhudd:


Tor:


Wrathar:

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

My favorite is the one that's screaming.

I see what you did there.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

GaistHeidegger posted:

All of these look really great, this guy in particular to me; how do you go about painting your armor / metal bits? I feel like they turned out looking really slick and I'm jealous!

Thanks. They are honestly nothing special- basecoat, wash, drybrush kinda stuff. In fact, I did a lot less on these guys as I didn't want my typical rusty/weathered Trollblood metal on them. The gold is slightly more nuanced or whatever though. Started with a basecoat of 50/50 Rhulic Gold / GW Scorched Brown, then overbrush of Rhulic, heavy Agrax wash, then drybrush Rhulic, and a final drybrush of a brighter gold (forget the name, some old GW one).

In terms of technique, nothing challenging at all, but I do like how it turns out.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Star Man posted:

I'm painting my Salamanders' helmet lenses yellow. It feels sacrilegious because it's not red but whatever.

The studio scheme uses yellow, or at least it did when I was still doing 40k. I preferred and did red on mine, but yellow is cool too.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Start them on ebay at 99 cents and see what people will pay you for it.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

So I'm using this lava base, but want to make the lava flow into a frozen creek sort of thing with water effects. Anyone have any links to tutorials, or suggestions about how to make it look properly frozen and icy?

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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Indolent Bastard posted:

Make a file in Photoshop using the gradient tool, print it at Kinkos.

This is what I was going to suggest.

Also may I just say I loving love SRM's dedication to old-school style? This backdrop thing is really taking it to a new, awesome level.

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