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Fix posted:Hey, what color wash do I use to shade pink? You can try mixing in a little dull green in your pink for a brownish shade, or some dark blue if you want to go for purplish for example.
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Feb 3, 2013 22:03
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Daedleh posted:Gotta love that "Finished an army" feeling. This is awesome.
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Feb 8, 2013 23:05
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Aw, thanks  Yep, that's the basic recipe I still use for the gatorskin. I should probably try to accomplish the same with an airbrush now that I own one. Someone on the PP forums asked me for some other stuff so here are some random bits of info for various parts: For skulls and bone I base with Jack Bone, wash carefully first with Bastion Grey, and then further with Greatcoat Grey in the very deepest parts. After that clean up the bone color if needed and highlight with Menoth White Base, possibly with some Menoth White Highlight but don't go as high as pure Morrow White. For added effect I like to very lightly glaze with Bloodstone or some greenish color like Traitor Green to add some tonal variety. Moldy Ochre or Ember Orange can be fun too, just play around with it. Most important part is to keep the glazes really thin so you just add a little bit of color over the base. You don't actually want, green, brown or orange skulls. Teeth are based in a dark brown like Umbral umber. Pick out the teeth with Menoth White Base and then use Menoth White Highlight for the very tips. You can give the teeth a light sepia wash or similar to give it a more yellowish hue. For tongue and gums I also start with a dark brown and layer up through the flesh colors Khardic Flesh, Midlund Flesh and finally a little Ryn Flesh. I focus on the tongue and usually leave the gums brown unless they really show a lot of surface. I think I only did the gums on the beasts. For the eyes I just paint the eyeball and some of the socket in Menoth White Highlight. Wash with orange and then red in the deepest parts to get a gradient and re-highlight the eyeball with yellow and finally a small spot of yellow/white. Also while on the topic of Blindwater here's a crosspost from the oath thread. Rask's pretty much done except that he'll be holding Eiryss' severed head, but sculpting is sloooow. 
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Mar 1, 2013 15:08
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Torabi posted:Thanks. This is perfect. I'm in Stockholm but the shipping isn't too bad. They have all the paints on the box of my mans it seems! 'Sup Stockholm bro  It seems you've found your stuff, but here's a link to a good store for future reference: http://www.narrenspel.se/index.php?route=product/category&path=67_192_199 It's a good store run by good people  If you're in Stockholm there's also Alphaspel if you don't want to pay for shipping. They carry a lot of the Vallejo line: http://alphaspel.se/shop/1419-vallejo And finally you have Wentzels which carry some Vallejo and assorted hobby stuff too.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:50
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Adrian Finol posted:Crossposting: Finally based my Mountain King so I can now say that he's done. Holy poo poo, that's one of the best painted mountain kings I've ever seen. Awesome contrast.
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May 13, 2013 20:48
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CyberLord XP posted:Old This is super inspiring and makes me want to sculpt tiny mans. Awesome work Hellbeard!
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Aug 14, 2013 21:19
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Hellbeard posted:Thank you very much! That is a very nice thing to read. I do a lot of conversions and add detail on already existing models so I'm comfortable with various putties and sculpting tools. I don't really know where to start with basic anatomy though, do you know of any good starter tutorials?
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Aug 15, 2013 08:57
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That link was ace. After googling around a bit I found that there were lots of good videos about proportions and such for clay sculpting. Should give some good starting guidelines at least. Is there any specific advantage to begin at the 32 mm scale, or is it easier to start off at 54 mm or bigger?
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Aug 16, 2013 11:51
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Verdugo posted:Has anyone used Vallejo Smoke? I picked up a bottle of it at my FLGS, and from what I can tell it's a brown wash that needs to be thinned. Any advice? I use it all the time for all sorts of stuff. For most uses you should thin it way down and it will stain metals really nice. Pretty much instant weathering. I sometimes use it for regular shadows too in the deepest parts and then I go straight from the bottle with a teeny amount of water just get better flow. It takes some time to dry when it's undiluted so you can get some pretty good transitions through blending with it. It's a very fun medium to play around with and you can also do stuff like add a small amount to water effects to get more naturally looking puddles on bases and stuff.
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Aug 20, 2013 11:15
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