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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



I approve of this thread and hope to post some newer work here sometime shortly. In the meantime, here's a bunch of my Crimson Fists from the last year or so!















That should do for now.

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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Fyrbrand posted:

Washes are one of the best things GW has ever produced c/d?

They made painting 30-odd Crimson Fists in the space of just under 3 weeks possible!

Seriously, once my CF test model got heavily washed with Asurmen Blue (after shade/basecoat/highlight), it pulled the look together so completely that my motivation for painting was off the charts during that time.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Hello goons! As many some one or two of you might remember, I used to be a frequent visitor and contributor to the painting-type threads here. Unfortunately I moved to NYC in May, and haven't had a lot of time or money to get back into the hobby (besides, I left all my stuff back in Michigan anyways). You know the usual sort of excuses: finances, tiny small apartment with no room for a proper painting station, trying to have an active social life, blah blah blah.

I have kept up with things in this thread and elsewhere, though, and was pleased to see that not only did the Blood Angels (my very first and still favorite SM army) got their own codex again, but all new figures as well. Seeing the new plastics of the Death Company and Sanguinary Guard on display here and elsewhere...well, let me just say that when I get the chance, I may just have to make a return to the sons of Sanguinius once more...

Excellent work in the thread, guys! Keep it up

E: found a couple of pics featuring the new DC and SG plastics on the Internet, as well.



Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jan 7, 2011

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



While browsing around Warseer, I found what I thought was a very awesome BA Sanguinary Priest. I'm totally ripping this off when I start up a BA army.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Fix posted:

Hey, if you can do it at the same level as you did your Crimson Fists, I'm all for it.

Many thanks! It'll be a while before I can tackle it; when I moved I left all my stuff back in Michigan, so I'd need to basically start from scratch. Even if I went back and got all my stuff, at the moment I don't have the room for storing supplies I originally did.

But I don't mind, I can always pick up just the painting/modeling stuff I need first and expand as I go. Hopefully more towards spring 2011 I'll be able to post some pics of my own stuff. In the meantime, here's an assault marine from the same guy off Warseer (as you can tell, I'm finding his work quite inspirational).

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



PaintVagrant posted:

Holy poo poo its grandpa pap

'sup bro

I was going thru some of my pics of previous minis I've painted, and found this Bretonnian Sorceress that I thought I did a pretty nifty job on.


Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



SRM posted:







Tanks are looking good! The only thing I might suggest is to put some decals/unit markings on them, to give them a bit of character, but that's just a personal aesthetic preference on my part. They're definitely top-notch in my book.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



adamantium|wang posted:

This guy have a thread or gallery you can link to? I'm 90% sure I know this dude.

Should be the thread here, by poster Ancient God. I think they crossposted it over to B&C, too. It's really top-notch work IMO.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



crime fighting hog posted:

So, I bought a couple packs of D&D minis (prepainted ones) and want to paint over them. Can I prime them like normal with spraypaint or should I do something else?

Being from the old school, unless they're made of a weirdly fragile plastic I'd say just dunk 'em in some Simple Green for a while, then scrub 'em with an old toothbrush. Give 'em a good rinse afterwards, let 'em dry, primer up and paint away.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Goddamnit, now I wanna do Dark Eldar too.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



NecronSchmecron posted:

Decided to paint Pedro to add to our club's raffle.



Very nice job indeed!

I haven't gotten around to painting any new stuff yet, so here's some Dark Elf Witch Elves, a Dark Elf sorceress, and a Reaper minis Elf Thief I painted around somewhere around 2008-2009.



Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Asmodai_00 posted:

Take a piece of paper and put it in front of your flash, it will soften that killer light you got going on.

Yeah, those were right around when I was just starting to mess around with photographic techniques, just getting pics without worrying about the results too much. Later on I started using two desk lamps and no flash with a lot better results (though I didn't get around to re-photographing those particular figures).

Probably when I get back into painting seriously, I'll get a lightbox put together as well, for better photos.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Fix posted:

Holy poo poo, what a great site.

Seconding this, there's a wealth of great info on that site.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Bhyo posted:

How did I not know about that site before today?

If it's not in the OP yet, it definitely should be.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



The discussion of Reaper paints brings up a question I had. When I eventually get back in the hobby (hopefully sometime around late spring/summer), what paints would you guys recommend I go with: Vallejo, Reaper, GW, or some other brand?

I'm most familiar with GW's stuff (the Foundation paints are amazing and the washes doubly so), but like most people I'm looking to get more paint for my buck (which is one disadvantage GW paints have), and I'm also curious to try a "dropper bottle" method of paint as well (another disadvantage to GW's paints).

Looking around on the Internet naturally hasn't produced any clear consensus (though most everyone dislikes GW paints, some favor Reaper and others favor Vallejo), so I figured I'd turn to fellow goons for advice. Apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere in the thread.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



adamantium|wang posted:

I can't speak for Vallejo vs. Reaper, but I literally just got my Vallejo order a few hours ago and after using GW exclusively for years I am considering never going back. The Game Colour range are clones of GW's set, and include all the paints they no longer produce, including all but 2 inks and 2 Foundations. The dropper bottles take up less space and have more paint in them (17ml opposed to 12ml), and give you complete control over how much paint you are using at all times. Got a ratio you want to use but don't want to make up a whole new bottle? You can mix it on your palette right every single time. For me, the cost is amazing too. Instead of spending $6AUD in GW on a smaller pot that is nearly guaranteed to dry out, I can order a Vallejo Game Colour bottle that seals properly and has more paint in it shipped from the UK for $2.50. You do have to shake the hell out of them at first, but aside from that they are superior to the Citadel product in every way. I haven't tried any of their Heavy Opaque paints yet (Vallejo's version of Foundations), but I haven't heard any complaints about them. Aside from using the GW washes I have (because they are a genuinely awesome product), I don't think I'll buy another GW paint again.

On the Reaper vs. Vallejo discussion, one review I watched on Youtube said something to the effect that (if I recall correctly) Reaper paints were great for wet blending while Vallejo paints were great if you were more of a "paint in layers" kinda guy (I may have it reversed though).

I also read about how much you have to shake Vallejo paints up while Reaper paints have little pewter skulls or something inside to facilitate mixing the paint quicker, but that Vallejo paints are still somewhat better overall (even if you have to shake them for longer periods of time).

Sole.Sushi posted:

Know what paint really sucks? Ral Partha's screwcap tubs of distilled abortion.

At least from my experience.

I seriously got back into the hobby in 2001, and after a year or two*, I started using the GW paints when they had the screwcap lids. I dunno how bad the RP paints were, but the GW paints with those lids earned every bit of derision that hobbyists laid on them, just like the "flip-top" lids do nowadays.

*In the interests of full disclosure, when I seriously returned to the hobby big time, I first started out painting Black Templars with the el cheapo craft paints you get at Walmart (which I did a pretty decent job with, even if I do say so myself). If I could manage to get by with crummy paints that cost less than a dollar a bottle, I'm sure either Reaper or Vallejo will turn me into a painting wizard.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



For any newcomers who may not be familiar with what we're talking about in regards to gesso, here's a good guide that gives you some idea what to expect when priming with gesso, and below is a before-during-after pic from the same site.



For the most part I tend to prime with gesso almost exclusively; no fuss, just glop it on a figure and wait for it to shrink & dry. No need to worry about inhaling spray primer fumes, no need to have to wait for weather conditions to be just right so the primer doesn't fuzz, and if for some reason you're dissatisfied with how the gesso dried, it's quicker to strip the gesso off the figure than it would be with spray primer.

One caveat for US folks: gesso comes in many varieties, but at all costs avoid the tubs of white gesso you can find at places like Walmart. Sure, it's cheap, but it dries like poo poo, with the added bonus of having ammonia in it (probably to help speed the drying process), so it stinks, too.

Your best bet is to hit up an arts & crafts store like Hobby Lobby or Michaels, and look in the area where they sell painting supplies. I seem to recall one goon got some Bob Ross-brand gesso, which had the added bonus of letting them visualize happy little trees.

Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Feb 16, 2011

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Having moved to NYC, gesso will truly be a godsend when I start getting back into the hobby, as I can prime indoors and avoid both bad weather and disapproving looks from the neighbors.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



PaintVagrant posted:

Hey guys, post links to your favorite painting resources/sites so I can put em in the OP.

Figured its time to add some more stuff to it.

You can also link posts from this thread, stuff like tutorials and other really high content, informative posts

By an amazing coincidence, my brother requested a bunch of links as he wants to start painting his own space mans (I usually do that for him, as normally he doesn't have the patience for it). So I'll just post a bunch of the same links I gave him; just be aware that this is a sort of "I'm new to the hobby"-kind of list.

Note: some of these sites are ones we roundly disparage around these here parts (and often with good reason), but as with most anything in life, there are well-painted, worthwhile bits of wheat to be separated from the "Space Marines with tits/Eldar surprise sex diorama" chaff. Besides, it's never a bad thing to get a reminder of just how good we have it here at SA.

Also, apologies if any of these are duplicates of ones already in the OP.

Forums
Warseer (http://www.warseer.com/) The various project logs have some REALLY talented people posting there. Also the forums are good for a chuckle at times (especially if you check out the "GW General Discussion" threads).

Dakka Dakka (http://www.dakkadakka.com/) Similar to Warseer, except with 75% more grognards.

Bolter & Chainsword (http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/) If you're all about Space Marines and their evil brethren, this is for you. Worth visiting for the Decal Project, where they have free downloadable transfer sheets (and tutorials on how to print same) for the more obscure chapters that GW doesn't currently put decals out for (so if you've ever wanted to start that Brotherhood of a Thousand army you've been dreaming of, here you go).

Wamp (http://www.wamp-forum.com/) Another forum with some interesting info and articles. Also has the free Portal e-Zine.

Eternity of War (http://www.eternityofwar.com/) Naturally.

Painting Related
Vallejo paints (http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/gb/index.html) Info on the range of paints Vallejo makes.

Brush Thralls (http://www.brushthralls.com/) Has some good articles and tutorials.

Cool Mini or Not (http://www.coolminiornot.com/) Gallery is worth browsing for inspirational purposes, and their shop has a lot of interesting non-GW stuff, too.

Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic (http://www.paintingclinic.com/) The site doesn't appear to have been updated since August 2010, and many of the tutorials are definitely of the "old school" vein. However, there's still plenty of useful info on the site (such as a comparison of different "strip paint from minis" methods).

Massive Voodoo (http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/) Posted recently around here, a very useful German site. English is definitely the site guys' second language, but it's in no way a barrier to absorbing the info they have to share.

Paintrix Miniatures (http://www.paintrix-miniatures.com/) Site of award-winner Jen Haley. Sadly light on tutorial info, but worth browsing about for inspirational purposes.

Shopping/Supplies (mostly US-based)
GW (https://www.games-workshop.com) Well, duh.

Reaper Minis (http://www.reapermini.com/) Particularly handy is the site's search engine, as it can help you find a specific miniature. For example, type in "human male sword" and it'll show you all minis of human males that carry a sword.

Bitz Barn (http://bitzbarn.com/) Bitz, however stock tends to be spotty at times.

War Store (http://www.thewarstore.com/) For many of us, the online version of the FLGS.

Lazertran (http://www.lazertran.com/) Transfer paper that can be used for the Decal Project mentioned above. I bookmarked this because Lazertran's decal sheets can be used once the ink is dry, with no need to "seal" the paper after printing (unlike other sheets).

Greenfield Games decals (http://www.greenfieldgames.com/catalog/43) Sells decals of various "generic" logos, etc., that can be used with different ranges (for example, the Maltese Cross that can be used on Black Templars).

Dragon Forge (http://www.dragonforge.com/) Resin bases for your space mans.

Secret Weapon (http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/) Some more bases for your dudes.

Free e-Zines
Note: not all of these are exclusively devoted to painting minis, but all should have at least some info on painting/conversion, as well as wargames in general.

Irregular Magazine (http://irregularmagazine.com/)
The Ancible (http://www.the-ancible.com/)
Thru The Portal (http://www.thru-the-portal.com/ttp/)

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Hell Diver posted:

Bonus round! I've been using my free time on night shift to the utmost, so here's the some WIP of my next Space Wolves. Arooooo



Let's see...so far, I want to spend money on paint up Blood Angels, Dark Eldar, and now Space Wolves. Thanks guys.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Well, that settles it. When I get some money I'm seriously going to pick up some Space Wolves.

And Blood Angels.

And Dark Eldar.

And some Infinity models.

And a bunch of standalone figures from Reaper and other ranges.

And paints, brushes, tools, etc.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Edit: ^^^ (also your boss looks pretty nifty too )

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Still a lot of work to do, but my question to you is, is he getting too bright for a Goff boss ?



Nothing a wash of Devlan Mud and/or Badab Black can't fix. Looks great!

Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Feb 25, 2011

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



I'd like to look at SRM's Mephiston, but it looks like it's hosted on Dakka's gallery, and it's loading slower than hell for me (in Chrome) to the point where the images time out.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



SRM - I can now see your Mephiston pics. Looking good overall, though I second the idea to highlight the gold bits with a little silver on the edges.

Hell Diver - Why must you make me want to buy and paint Space Woofs.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



I refuse to believe that any minis or scenery in any issue of WD have ever been basecoated, undercoated, or painted in any way with the GW spray gun. Even in any photos showing stuff being painted with the spray gun (I am convinced they just Photoshop the spray gun over a guy using a real airbrush in the photos).

I forget if it was on SA or in another forum, but I remember reading about a guy whose spray gun started leaking paint on him as he was spraying. As in, the paint leaked inside the gun and then started oozing/dripping out of the "seam" between the two halves of the gun.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Bhyo posted:

GW spray gun horror story

I briefly toyed with the idea of getting the GW spray gun, but after reading several horror stories and bad reviews online, ended up getting a Badger 250 spray gun from a local Michaels hobby store. After some fiddling around with it a bit and getting used to how it works, it turned out to be one of the best decisions I ever made.

I left it behind at my parents' house when I moved (along with all my other hobby stuff), but if I get the chance to start using it again in NYC, I'll definitely invest in a compressor for it. I was toying with doing an Angels of Absolution army at the time (yet another on the list of armies I want to do, along with Viking Space Woofs, Dark Space Elves and Emo Vampire Marines) and it made it sooooo easy to basecoat several dudes and a Rhino with Dheneb Stone.

Below are a couple pics of the AoA test figure I did (yes, that chapter symbol is freehand ). Black undercoat, spray Dheneb Stone basecoat & touchup where needed, Gryphonne Sepia spray, then touching things up with Dheneb Stone again, finally highlighting with Bleached Bone before painting other stuff.


Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Bhyo posted:

Now see I think the idea behind the spray gun actually has some merit. Not everyone wants to drop a large chunk of money onto a compressor, especially if all they're going to use it for is a point and shoot basecoat device.

They just really really messed it up by making it too cheap.

I agree, in theory it's actually a really good design (the pistol grip would make it a lot easier to apply things like undercoats and basecoats). But as you said, they then decided to be cheap with it and apparently gave it zero quality control.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Hi all! Enjoy a bunch of Warmachine and Infinity pics I scrounged off of CMON.








Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



I like the Chopper reference for us Judge Dredd fans.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



pw pw pw posted:

Hahahahahahaha waaaitt... Are you telling me those big rivets in their heads are an honor?? I always figured they were bullets that had gotten lodged in their think concrete skulls, or some kinda wifi device. So these guys spend years fighting screamer killers and clawed horrors and whatnot, and then when they finally get home their reward is getting rivets punched into their skulls?

No wonder they're all so grumpy looking all the time.

After undergoing the process to become a Space Marine and following their daily rituals, getting a couple of metal rivets stamped in their head probably seems like a harmless tickle to 'em.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



adamantium|wang posted:

So hey I've been thinking about designs for my Guard regiment's insignias and instead of wanting to murder everything I see by trying to do little white lines freehand I was thinking of grabbing some printable waterslide paper and doing up my own transfers. Have any of you dudes played around with this stuff before? I know you need to get laser or ink specific paper, and I've heard you need to seal the print to the paper with some spray gloss otherwise it rubs right off, but are there any other things I should look out for?

Check out Lazertran, they make the kind of "no-seal" decal paper Sushi was talking about. There's also a Dakka article that covers custom decals as well.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Hell Diver posted:

I'm gonna piggy back on Miles' question with one of my own.

Here's my Marbo:



My question is what color should his beret be? On one hand I want to leave it black as an homage to the old Ranger beret (and current all-Army headgear) and my favorite G.I. Joe as kid, Flint. Alternately I could do it green for Special Forces, which Marbo would most certainly be, though that might look too samey along with his Green everything else.

The only thing I kind of want to avoid is a red beret, because the sneakiest dude in the world probably isn't rocking bright rear end headgear.

Dark blue, to represent the fine men and women of the USAF Security Forces (Security Police when I was in).

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Fix posted:

Some kind of weird abstract painting theory occurred to me tonight. It seems to me that the more you do things right, the less likely you are to notice them because they just look how you'd expect things to look. I know that we exaggerate things for effect because of scale, but getting the lighting and shadow just right, or picking out proper details, or getting the right color balance is less of a matter of making a model look more right, than it is making it look less wrong, because we're naturally predisposed to seeing things as we think they should look at 1:1 scale, and it's only the glaring errors that stand out. The stuff you do right? That's harder to notice intentionally and quantify.

That's probably a load of pointless pondering, and largely not helpful since so much of what painting these things is is in stylizing and exaggerating them, but it made me recognize a number of mistakes I've been making on both a conceptual and detail level, and I figured I'd share in case it helped anyone else. vv

I would say the same theory holds true for most creative endeavors. It's always easy to see what's wrong (although sometimes a little less easy to figure out the best way to fix it), whereas it's harder to spot what went right initially (it's not until later, if you do further analysis, that you can often pick out the things that make it work artistically). As you say, if it was done right you wouldn't really notice it to begin with.

I think films are a good comparison in this case: when you watch a bad movie, you can always spot the errors (bad acting, bad dialogue, bad light & sound, etc.), whereas when you watch a good movie you're taken in and don't initially notice the things that make it work because everything fits together so well. Same with noticing a really well-done paintjob or conversion (such as many in this here thread) vs. a lovely painting/conversion job (as seen in many other places on the Internet).

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Bhyo posted:

You dont get enough praise on here. Especially for your colour choices which are brilliant.

Seconding this, those Skorne really do look amazing.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Bhyo posted:

So some of you may remember I picked up some Blood Angels when they were released about 18 months ago. Well I finished them today.



Jumping on the "awesome job" . Hopefully it won't be too long before I am back in the swing of things painting-wise.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



TastyAvocado posted:

Heavy flamer sternguard, liking this model a lot:





Just wanted to show some love for this, and to add that now when I decide to jump back into assembling plastic space mans, I will need to get at least one box of Grey Knights, in order to kitbash stuff (like a plastic Librarian) along with vanilla SM and Blood Angels parts. God drat this hobby

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Yesterday I got over to Sci-Fi City in Orlando, and had a chance to look at some Citadel Finecast stuff for the first time. They didn't have a lot, but damned if I wasn't tempted to get a Dark Eldar Archon (the only reason I didn't is because I want to get some other DE stuff and kitbash). It looked really crisp and easy to work with, and while I couldn't see the mini in its' entirety, it looked relatively free of imperfections. So yeah, that's even more stuff waiting in the wings to take my money.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Big Willy Style posted:

Tell me what you guys think

Looking good!

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

BoLS really needs to find better authors for their painting articles, as what they're doing these days is just sad.

I haven't painted in over a year and now I'm worried whatever I do decide to eventually paint is gonna look like that

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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



visuvius posted:

I have a feeling I've applied the paint too thickly. When you guys thin out your paints 2:1 or even 1:1, how many drat coats do you have to apply? Something like Scab or Gore Red already seem really thin when you apply the first coat? Doesn't it take forever to paint the model when you thin like that?

It does take a while, but the idea is that several thin coats applied over time will look a lot better than one thick coat applied in a rush. That's one reason why Citadel Foundation paints are a godsend - you can quickly get a basecoat down (which makes getting "thin" colors like red and yellow done a hell of a lot easier). It's one of those things you tend to pick up and figure out over time, really.

quote:

Secondly, how the hell do you guys figure out which parts of the model to shade and highlight and where to cut off the shade/highlight? I read some articles and I get the gist of it but when I try it, it looks stupid.

Again, in all honesty, the best teacher for that is experience. I find it helps to look at pics of the model/models you're working on, and try to copy or emulate that. It's like writing, in a way. Many authors feel you need to read a lot in order to write well, and I'd say the same applies here - in order to paint well, you need to study other people's paintjobs. I know in some ways this can be self-defeating (in that sometimes people see a paintjob that's just absolutely amazing, go "well I'll never reach that level" and quit), but I find it helps inspire me.

One rule of thumb I should add when it comes to highlights is, the cleaner and simpler, the better. It'll look better if you have a model with just three colors per area (shade/basecoat/highlight) with simple clean highlights and shades. Again, this is something I feel you'll develop a knack for over time.

Looking at the pics of the minis you posted, I'd say you have a lot of the basics down pat. Colors don't clash horribly and the paint is applied neatly and "inside the lines". I'd just say to continue focusing on making those skills stronger, and work up to the more advanced highlighting and shading as time goes.

One other thing: Citadel Washes make "cheating" a paintjob almost ridiculously easy. On guys like these Red Corsairs I did, it was almost comically simple: prime black, basecoat certain parts Mechrite Red, wash with Devlan Mud, touch up certain areas again with Mechrite Red, highlight Blood Red, wash with Baal Red.

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