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Moddin' a Carnifex into a Tervigon ain't easy but it's necessary. I know the stones and such look goofy now, but they have a fine layer of gloe to smooth their surfaces and will come out looking like nodules on the sac after painting.
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2010 15:35 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:46 |
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Hive Mind don't preach, I'm in trouble deep, Hive Mind don't preach, I've been losing biologically engrained hibernation cycles, But I've made up my mind, I'm keeping my 3d6 Termagaunts. Tervigon 1 essentially done aside from the Scything Talons which just have a few base coats of Red Gore. Some touch-ups and highlights to do. Now it's onto some termagaunts while I await my Trygon and Venomthropes...
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2010 00:30 |
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It was one column cut-out piece of army case foam, a few random flakes of insulation and enough greenstuff to flatten out and cover. Then it was covered in small stones and a thin layer of glue to both seal it and smooth out any fingerprints I may have left. Very little greenstuff was used.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2010 02:00 |
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Fix posted:That sounds like an interesting way to go about it. Did you take any WIP shots? Just the images on the last page, which is a shot of the Carnifex with the greenstuff and stones glued and ready for painting. It really was just a hodge-podge of textures and fillers that I knew would work out.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2010 02:12 |
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PV, what is your average time to paint a high-quality model? I know it's based on size, but as an example how long did it take you to paint that? I'm just curious.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2010 01:27 |
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Cross-post from the 40K thread: I think the Trygon is coming along pretty nicely. Still need to do touch-ups and comeplete the fading on the shell, but that's going to wait until the whole thing is painted and ready for final assembly (the torso is just sitting on the base for the photo).
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2010 15:10 |
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Was the Venomthrope as much of a pain to balance as it looks? It's actually surprisingly stable. I'm actually still weirded out by how solid it stands. It doesn't wobble when moved and its center of gravity is way lower than the current Zoanthrope model. enri posted:My money's on there being a 5mm thick brass rod running right through that fucker, looks like a horrible horrible model to assemble Krazy glue and a little green-stuff. It was a bit of a bitch to assemble but no more than a Zoanthrope, which is still the golden standard for pewter models that make you hate life.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2010 16:59 |
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That red bone has to be from something. This is a fun game--find the random boardgame bitz!
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2010 23:46 |
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Taking a little time away from my oath to get the body of my Trygon ready for some more pointy bitz:
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2010 04:14 |
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Kharnifex posted:have you got tips for highlighting the tail bone, I can never seem to get it right, the curves etc Basecoat the whole thing, then go over the ridges with solid lines of color, incrementally increasing the brightness. The last two layers you can drybrush on as you don't want too much at that level and only the ridges on the area will pick up the paint. With the Trygon tail there are certain areas that are more raised than others, so I let those get more highlighting to give a better sense of size/distance. Like so: I'll probably post a few more detailed photos of the body when it gets sunnier here--I got excited and took the photo last night when all I had for light was a dim bulb and the "adjust brightness/contrast" tool. More detailed photos can show how the tail actually looks since a lot of coloring was bleached out.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2010 13:48 |
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It's pretty awesome. I'm not a huge fan of the clown-makeup paintjob on all of the faces though. It's "awesome, awesome, awesome, awe---HEYKIDSWOULDYOULIKETOWATCHMEJUGGLEHAHAHAHA."
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2010 19:13 |
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Alright, I was going back and forth but now I'm convinced that those are great substitutions for very little work. I'll have to start checking toy stores.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2010 22:11 |
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Dale-Taco posted:I think she came out P good. It did come out nicely. If you have one, put a wash over the cherub wings. If you don't have a wash, make a 90/10 mix of water and Chaos Black and wash over the wings to get darkened recesses on them.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2010 02:10 |
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Cakefool posted:I'm so hard over here about how off-centre the door transfer is. I don't disagree. Considering the amount of time and directed effort it takes to place a transfer without any bubbling or problems, it's as if the guy wanted it off-center. I have no idea why and I have decided to avoid thinking about it very much like trying to wrap my mind around the vastness of space or non-Euclidean geometry. PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Feb 4, 2010 |
# ¿ Feb 4, 2010 18:42 |
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frest posted:Why does every Imperial Fists army seem like the guy ran out of Iyanden Darksun halfway through and started layering regular yellows They hail from Villengard. Bananas are good.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2010 19:45 |
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Arlaharen posted:Finally got my stuff from Maelstrom so this is how I spent my day: That's a drat fine Daemon Prince.
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2010 21:52 |
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My Trygon's ready for hugs!
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 14:36 |
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:This looks badass. But the rattle is weird/funny. I'm picturing a Space Marine walking by a tightly coiled Trygon, obviously visible among the grass, and him shaking that thing like crazy to scare the marine away. I've come to like it and I imagine that it uses it to entice Orks like an angler fish.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 16:57 |
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PaintVagrant posted:I want to post things in the OP that have been painted after it was made Can... can I get my Trygon posted? I'm proud of it like any father would be of their monstrous and instinctively murderous son.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 18:14 |
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Chenghiz posted:Your paint job is way more awesome than the base. I think it needs something to break up the flatness. Yeah, I may add a shrubbery or two. All of my Tyranid are based on a generic happy green-field with rocky soil to add a splash of natural color and "pleasantness" to the otherwise terrifying monster.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 20:09 |
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Broken Loose posted:I really wish you'd paint your sand, it kind of ruins the piece. Looks great otherwise, though. Is there any particluar reason why painting the sand makes it any more... sandy? Basing sand already has a nice color and looks natural without additional coloring. Do you think it would look better in another color or does painting it the same color do something extra? It's three layers of sand and glue, meaning you cannot see the base through the material.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 20:37 |
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So should I add a wash to the sand or should I actually paint and/or drybrush it? I'mg going to try a test base either way. I'd like to try and keep the same color, though if it comes out nicely I may redo all the finished bases with the updated basing.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 21:17 |
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I've just starting working in some additions of spines and greenstuff to a Tyranid Warrior to begin the process of Tyranid Prime assembly. It's my first time actually working with large bits of greenstuff to extend carapace and relatively flat areas. Hopefully it'll come out looking smooth enough that a good coat of paint will hide any mistakes. I'll post some pictures of the work when I hsbr it assembled and ready for painting. I'm also using 2nd Ed. Warrior legs to make the HQ substantially taller that an average Warrior. I may add some extra spines or carapace to them as the top portions near the hips are bare flesh, whereas they are covered in armor in the new sculpts.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2010 17:22 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Also, Pierre, you can smooth out green stuff with fine grit sand paper after the fact, so if you don't mind doing that, you don't need to worry about getting it perfect while you are working it. I'm really not sure why I didn't think about that. I feel kind of silly now.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2010 17:54 |
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Combaticus posted:Pierre try getting some grey stuff from galeforce 9, I find that it's a better material to work with than green stuff and along with regular modeling tools get some silicone clay shapers, they're the poo poo. Thanks. I may try that on the next set, but I've still got a good deal of GS left and the torso is already 60% done (just need to fill the top level of chitin). I have faith it'll come out nicely but it would be good to have better materials to work with. Edit: Also, is there a particularly good place to find plsticard in the United States? I've tried looking in local shops and modeling stores but haven't seen it yet. I usually try and buy locally when I can, but this does not appear to be possible. Is there a good website for it? PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Feb 11, 2010 |
# ¿ Feb 11, 2010 19:23 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Pierre, see if you can find hobby stores, or model train places. Surely there are some around Orlando. The one I go to in Ft. Lauderdale sells primarily train stuff and RC cars/planes and absolutely no GW or wargaming stuff, but they have a nice supplies section with lots of plastruct stuff. Yeah, I'm going to try and take another trip to about the only non-gaming modeling store in town (Colonial Photo & Hobby) and see what they have. I need to buy some pipes and perhaps some trees etc. to start on my table.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2010 20:02 |
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R.S. Gumby posted:Plasma blastgun pretty much done. The data cable is GENIUS. Awesome build.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2010 17:47 |
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Hell Diver posted:Here's some WIP pics of my Stormcaller who's rolling along nicely. This is a little more than a single night of work, he's a lot of fun to paint and came together pretty quickly. Just have to do his arms/staff and some clean up and he's done. Hell Diver, you're making me want to play Space Wolves. Stop it.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2010 20:44 |
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Cakefool posted:Huh, I don't have one of those. I have 2 boxes of CSM, I take it that's from a different box? You get one in each of the new-ish Chaos Space Marine boxes. I bought a few boxes of CSM a year or two ago and they have them.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2010 22:31 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:Regarding basing, how would you guys deal with this situation? Using a modelling drill, bore a small (1-2mm) hold into one of the feet of the model and then bore another hole directly through the base and basing material to where you want the foot to meet. Clip a bit of paperclip (or other small yet sturdy material) to a length that cover the hole in the foot and passes through the bottom of the base-hole. Place some glue in the hole on the foot and then foot itself, please the piece of paperclip in the foot-hole and then through the hole in the base. Place glue on the bottom of the base and the remaining end of the paperclip; let the glue dry. Easy and makes for a remarkably stable model. All of my Tyranid that are 40mm+ are based in this way and are rock-solid.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2010 17:15 |
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I finally found a store around town that sells modeling stuff. Time to start making copious amounts of terrain. First try at a decently-sized terrain for a forested industry world. I'll post it again once it's painted and purtied up.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2010 00:55 |
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I have realized I enjoy making terrain. Time to get to work making 4-5 more so I'll finally have a gaming table that doesn't use torn cardboard and coke bottles for terrain.
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2010 15:23 |
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The Saddest Robot posted:Frogs... with human teeth? Ugh, I'm failing at the internet right now. Could someone post that god-awful picture of one of the live action Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles faces that I see on SA from time to time? It's the perfect response to this and for the life of me I cannot find it.
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2010 20:49 |
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Finally getting back to working on my Salamanders: Three more Assault Terminators to go and then it's off to painting a million tanks.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2011 17:53 |
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Xombie posted:Did you just use a red wash for the sand? I like the contrast. Thanks, I wanted something to balance the heavy green and darker tones. It was all painted using a 70/30 mix of Blazing Orange and water, allowing for the lighter tips of the gravel to still show, then drybrushed a few times with Bleached Bone. Quick and easy, giving a blasted desert-world look.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2011 19:07 |
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I've painted more Plague Marines while I should be working on my oath... I do so love Brundle-Marine though!
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2011 04:04 |
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I've started making a whole bunch of new terrain for my table. So far I've been pretty pleased with using model-piping and scrap cans and such for industrial cylinders, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with any good industrial/factory 28mm terrain kits. While I have cylinders and rocky terrain to block line of sight, I'm interested in buying some premade ramps and pillar supports to make towers and rampways. I saw a kit online last week that was an extremely generic sci-fi tower which seemed to be modular and fit the bill perfectly, especially since it was only $20ish before shipping. Unfortunately, my coworker decided to clear browser history on my terminal. I've been googling for it for an hour now and I cannot find it again to save my life. Save me. PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Mar 29, 2011 |
# ¿ Mar 29, 2011 23:11 |
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Dagon posted:These guys sound like what you might be looking for: http://www.thewarstore.com/IMEXPlatformerHexagon.html Yes, thank you! I actually looked through the Warstore but for whatever reason did not see them there. I blame being distracted by both my coworkers prancing around with their 3DSs.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2011 23:21 |
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Finally got around to making some additional terrain for my gaming table (just in time for tonights 2v2 3000pt extravaganza): If you want good-looking rocks on the cheap, aluminum foil glued to plasticard and covered in plaster sheeting is the best thing in the world.
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2011 15:53 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:46 |
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Brodin posted:Hey all, first time poster. Looks pretty damned nice. My only real suggestion might be to apply a light wash onto the skull helmet of a brown-ish color such as Devlan Mud to give it a more textured look. I might recommend going over the red portions of the crozius and storm bolter to ensure an even coat and maybe add a brighter highlight of a Blood Red at the very end of the edges to make it pop a little more. Also--the obvious--please drill your barrels.
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2011 23:59 |