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My dark elves and demons, most of these models are painted almost entirely with washes        
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Oct 4, 2009 02:53
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| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 12:27 |
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Crosspost from gbs WIP Doomwheel pics, crappy phone camera cos I can't be bothered breaking out the big camera for WIP shots but it's coming together   brass needs washed, another coat of yellow & wash on the cables, finish up the warpstone and rats/wheel studs and these bits are done, then I'll put it together with the outer assemblies and paint all those up. Getting done  wish a little work thiswill be finished and based by the time my magnets arrive thursday/friday then i can pick up a bell/furnace kit to magnetize 
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Dec 1, 2009 11:37
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More in progress doomwheel pics, better camera this time   
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Dec 2, 2009 13:24
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Wrapped up the doomwheel except for some grass on the base when it dries and a little decoration on the pennant maybe  
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Dec 3, 2009 13:16
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Yeah I'm going to pick out the rivets, do a little edge highlighting and finish the base after tonight, got a game on probably vs empire or vampires tonight so I'll do all the little final touches tomorrow before I start up the bell. Yes thats another dude on the back, and the cloth is just white primer -> golden yellow -> sepia wash -> another touchup of golden yellow. The pilot looks dirtier than the back crewman because i'd washed that entire section with badab black before painting but I'll be avoiding that in the future, as going right over the white primer & then washing gives a much more vibrant but still sorta sickly dark skavenish yellow
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Dec 3, 2009 21:56
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Based by popular demand 
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Dec 5, 2009 07:39
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  Warpfire thrower team, wish I could work my little camera better, even in macro mode it refuses to focus right close up, but i see it go past the perfect focal length and refuse to stop, doesnt seem like i can cantrol it manually without zooming. Have to break out the big one that works better for miniatures next time
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Dec 5, 2009 13:47
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Iron Squid posted:What do you guys think of this technique to quickly paint an Ork army? I've got nothing but good things to say about this method, I've painted many dark elves with washes alone over white primer, my doomwheel & weapon team were both primed white, light coloured basecoat and wash with a little highlight touchup where necessary, it's fast and effective for big units especially if you skip hand highlighting and do it all with washes. Since foundations and washes I find white primer beats black every time unless you're painting a predominantly black model
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Dec 7, 2009 12:22
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Iron Squid posted:Do you have any photos of the work you've done like this? Apart from the metal and a drybrush on the cloaks, all these dudes were done 100% with washes over white primer      These ones are all done with a single coat of light basecoat colours over white primer, shaded with washes and yeah yellow over black is a losing battle. I recommend priming white, otherwise you'll need two thin coats of foundation yellow + 1 of golden yellow to get a non-splotchy colour. Non foundation yellow does not cover well at all, even straight out of the pot, and you do absolutely need to thin it despite the temptation to keep the heavier pigment, or it will get clumpy and blotchy and ruin it anyway
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Dec 8, 2009 01:13
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Even having lots of little nooks and recesses, priming white then giving the whole model a coat of badab black sorts this out handily. It's a good start for any areas on the model that are going to end up darker, but skip it on your yellows and similar bright/poor coverage colours because it makes a noticeable difference to the colour intensity you'd otherwise get over white primer the rear crewman here had straight golden yellow, one coat over white primer followed by one coat of sepia wash, the pilot in front had the same but with a wash of badab black between the primer and the yellow it's not huge but it's noticeable, it's a good thing for darker grittier colours, not as desirable for brights
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Dec 8, 2009 01:33
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crossposted from gbs, finished magnetizing my bell/furnace kit! Leaving the seer separate until he's painted    Had to do a fair bit of surgery to magnetize the bell/furnace anchor point on the arch, would have been sooo much easier if there was a second set of the circular bits that link to the chain held by the crew Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 13:55
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stupid bloody photobucket, reuploaded to waffles
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Dec 9, 2009 23:09
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Update to Pro today! aw bloody hell there's gonna be a big trail of broken links now  I've reupped a few to waffleimages    
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Dec 10, 2009 02:50
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I've just moved house and have no drat internets, but that means I've been able to paint some at least. My primer and screaming bell are both still boxed (I'll probably move them over tonight) but in the meantime I've been working on some gutter runners, 4 completed and another 4 half done, hopefully I'll get a chance to finish them off and base them tonight, I'll bring some photos on a usb to upload at work tomorrow. Then back to work on my bell . My wife works at an art supply shop and I think I'm getting some series 7s for christmas so I'll be keeping busy on my skaven over the holidays, trying to resist buying more stuff at the moment, painting up all my old dudes first. Think I'm gonna have to cave and get (mostly) new clanrats though, i guess half of the 100 or so old ones i've got can be slaves. Much as I like the new stormvermin i'll probably end up sticking with my current metals at least until everything else is bought and painted, and I need to start working on a model for my hellpit abomination..
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Dec 17, 2009 05:16
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crosspost from main thread Still lacking internet at my new place so I've been doing some painting, full unit of 8 gutter runners completed and based. Apart from the unit champ they're actually night runner models (which in turn are just skaven mordheim sprues reboxed) because I think they look a lot cooler than actual gutter runners, the most recent ones still seem stuck in 5th "festooned with weapons and bags and items in lieu of model detail" edition. The night runners are a bit more cartoony skaven but they go better with the bulk of my army anyways    Yeah yeah I know, mold lines, but to be fair I assembled these several years ago and I just wanted them painted lol
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Dec 21, 2009 13:35
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By request, here's a quick how-to for magnetizing the bell kit, apologies where the pics are blurry didn't want to mess around with proper lighting and whatnot for largely unpainted bitz  . Throughout the project I have used 2x3mm rare earth disc magnets. It also goes without saying that when fixing the second magnet of any pair, CHECK THE POLARITY. Then check it again. Then check it again when it's been glued in, in case it flipped. I can't stress this enough, as it's real hard to dig superglued metal out of plastic sockets. Luckily I only had to do it once, seriously, check! I used a GW pin vice to drill a hole where there wasn't a socket already available, then widened it with an exacto knife. Also apolgies for the fact that these are all after shots, I don't have any pics of what the components look like before surgery, but since you'll have them in front of you I'm hoping it wont be too hard to work outMagentizing the Screaming Bell/Plague Furnace Part 1 - Assemble the bell carriage  The main assembly of the bell carriage can be put together as per the instructions. Before beginning this assembly, take the small front platform and place a magnet towards the front-middle, basically where you want the brazier/plague priest to sit. (You should be able to see it in the above pic) Glue together the main carriage, the wheels, the bladed guard at the front and the FRONT platform only - do not glue the back platform, it is reversible for the monk crew/ogre and different on each side so this will need to stay loose. The arches can be assembled and either slotted in or glued - I just plugged them into the slots but there's plenty of give to push in the bell assembly later since it will be gripped by magnets not pegs, so if you want to glue, go for it. Part 2 - The easy bits Let get the simple magnetizations out of the way first. Glue together the other subassemblies (bell - leaving the seer off if you want to paint him separately, great censer, plague monk crew, rat ogre, brazier, plague priest) DO NOT ATTACH THE ROUND JOINTS THAT CONNECT THE BELL/CENSER TO THE ARCHES - this is extremely important as there's only one set of these, and they're also the trickiest goddamn part of the whole thing, but more on that later First magnet job, the cap of the bell should be drilled out and magnetized, I've shown the bell below but you'll need to do the same to the cap of the great censer  Then the paired magnet on the icon. Again note that the polarity on the bell/censer need to be the same so that the icon matches both of them (this is the one I hosed up first time round)  Next, the crew platforms. I opted to place one magnet on each side of the platform and one on each crew assembly, widening the socket on the platform and cutting the peg and drilling on the crew   This one's easy enough to follow since the positions are already mapped out for you by the pegs/sockets, so I haven't done close ups of the ogre and monks, but here's the monk crew, priest, and brazier magnetize (I actually cheated with the priest and just gave him a bit of pin to stick to since he's a pretty tight fit anyway, don't cut this corner with either of the crews, as they need to be anchored down properly since the chain/rope will be bearing weight from the main bell assembly and they'll just pop straight up)  Part 3 - Magnetizing the arches, bell and great censer This is the hardest part of the whole thing. First off, this bit has a lot of magnets in pretty much a straight line, plot out your polarity and make sure you don't gently caress it up! Starting from the arch there will be - arch magnet, archside magnet in round joint 1, bellside magnet in round joint 1, magnet on either side of the bell, another 2 magnets on the other round join and another magnet in the opposite arch. Yep. Firstly, the sockets in the arches basically fit perfectly to the magnets I had, I recommend the same size. Anyway, magnetize both arches, then move on to the round joints  These things are tricky but not as bad as the next section. Basically you want a magnet in each side of the round centre section of both joints, where a peg would ordinarily go. Drill this out sufficient to get the magnets in there (it should just about fit anyway, and do one at a time, testing polarity at each stage) WITHOUT damaging the little socket around the outer edge, this needs to hold a little secondary peg on the main bell assembly or the weight of the thing will drag it straight down, rotating around the magnet instead of being held up in an action pose. Anyway, once done you should have two magnets flush inside that little middle socket, one facing to pair with the arch, one facing to pair with the bell. Now for the critical and most involved bit, magnetizing the bell & great censer. Essentially, what we're doing is cutting away the peg that would normally thread through the round joints into the arch and replacing this with a magenetic joint. However, you'll notice that around the peg is a secondary raised little notch that makes it so this assembly can only go into the round joints one way. We need to cut away the entire post, both above and below this peg, but leave the peg intact. I suggest first placing the flat of your knife on top of this peg, then cut straight across to get rid of the upper post section. Then, cut straight down between the secondary peg and what remains of the main peg to the point where it's flush with rest of the round lip that's just a little bit raised out from the main body of the bell (ie, you want to retain this little lip in the next cut as it pretty much defines a good socket for the magnet, don't cut this away, this is the surface you cut the rest of the peg flush with. If that sounds confusing, it's easier to follow looking at the great censer, you don't want to cut it all the way down to the main beam, because the magnets wouldnt touch, you just want to remove the peg that is supposed to thread through the round joins into the arches). Then you can just cut horizontally from the opposite side and hopefully remove this chunk of plastic without doing any further damage to the secondary peg, which will not look a little odd standing there all by itself  ALTERNATE PLAN - If you can't do this or gently caress it up, as I did on one of the four times I had to do it, the alternative is to simply cut the whole fucker flush with the little lip I specified before, then place a short pin to replace the support peg. I found this less effective than the intact plastic sections but it will do in a pinch. Just make sure it's positioned correctly and the right length to just sit in the socket on the round join, it's only function is to stop the weight of the whole assembly rotating it around the magnetic join freely. Pray, test your polarities, and attach all the subassemblies of your chosen format. The chain/rope from the crew WILL need to sit on one of the two end pegs on the round joints, as without it it still tends to droop a little bit, but between the crew rope and the secondary pegs i've found it holds stable and stands up to being moved around the table. Now sit back and have a skavenbrew, because you've completed a hell of a project and saved yourself the cost of another bell kit  Finished magnetized bell  Finished magnetized furnace  Bonus painting pics, rat ogre crewer I finished this morning   My internet access is sporadic through my iphone but if anyones got questions I'll try and reply to them as fast as I'm able
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Dec 22, 2009 07:53
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Dec 23, 2009 07:36
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crosspostin! Welp, the carriage, common parts and all the bell assemblies are done, so I've got a fully painted screaming bell      Think I'll take a break on some slaves or jezzails before i round out the plague furnace components and base. I'm so very pleased with the way this came out, paintwise and with the magnetizing. Looks gorgeous sitting on my table, now to spray all the painted bits with sealant so they dont lose paint on the edges from all the assembly handling. regarding painting tutorials, videos are definitely the way to go, theres many good free resources available. Much better than text descriptions (in my day it was dr fausts painting clinic and whatever random articles i could find). That said, practice will get you further than any tutorial. Here's a pic of a clanrat from the first box of miniatures I ever painted, and another clanrat a couple of years later, compared to what I'm painting now, another 6 or so years down the track. Practice practice practice 
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Dec 24, 2009 06:41
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Remember when I said I would paint some slaves first? I lied   
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Dec 28, 2009 08:46
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Sneak peak of 10 slaves I knocked out this afternoon, need a wash on the fur, eyes and teeth/nails done and the bases finished but most of the work is done on this. Not doing them to too fancy a degree since I'll have dozens of them to do and they'll be in big ranked blocks anyway but I think it's going to end up a decent tabletop standard. I've not spent very much worktime on these and they're already looking quite servicable. After I finish these and another 10 slaves to round out the unit I might start on converting a hellpit abomination 
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Dec 28, 2009 12:42
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Finished the slaves I was working on today, and also knocked out another 10 Here's the army so far  Feels like I've painted so much for only a couple of units but big kits like the bell & doomwheel are multiple regiments worth of work, so hopefully it will all move along quickly now. Now I can either start some jezzails tomorrow or start messing about with a hellpit conversion. Still not entirely sure what parts im going to use, I've got an old unused chaos spawn, some rat ogre & dragon ogre body parts, a spare head and tail from a hydra lying around so I'm thinking I can get a good start with those and some greenstuff
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Dec 29, 2009 13:40
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Since we're pimping our stuff from this thread, here's my finished screaming bell from way back on page 37
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Feb 10, 2010 00:01
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finished oath crosspost Dire avengers  Exarch  Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Feb 14, 2010 |
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Feb 14, 2010 08:20
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Furret Basket posted:How did you get that orange colour so vibrant? It's blazing orange (a little thin so the white shines through a tad but not wash-thin) over white primer, baal red wash, another dab of baal red directly into the deepest cracks and a bit of edge highlighting white primer supremacy. i've never been able to get black primed models to get anywhere near the colour vibrancy of white, and washes pretty much eliminate the need to build up from dark basecoats in the recesses
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Feb 14, 2010 10:22
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I'm looking to attempt some wetblending on my fire dragons helmets, from blazing orange to an orange/golden yellow blend (towards yellow for pure yellow edge highlights) and I'm wondering - is it better to do orange basecoat & wash, then pure orange at the top and blend in 2 or 3 strips of progressively lighter yellow/orange down to the yellowest parts, or basecoat yellow then paint orange at the top and drag it down through the still wet yellow, reapplying orange in smaller areas until only the deepest bits are pure orange? should i skip basecoating alltogether and start straight off with the blends? I've seen it done a few different ways and it's still a little hard to follow
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Feb 23, 2010 04:58
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crosspost from oath thread, wip fire dragon, im working on with layered blending on the helmet. it's a bit more pronounced to brighter colour extremes in real life, still havent gotten daylight bulbs and side walls for a lightbox 
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Feb 25, 2010 13:08
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Fast_Food_Knight posted:Your blend is smooth as silk well done. Out of curiosity, did you use any extra agents in your paint? Or just water? Just water, this is all dry layering, extremely diluted paint applied in very thin coats, I lost count how many, thin enough that you can apply the paint then dry it near instantly by blowing on it and then add another layer, building up the opacity slowly for a smooth blend
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Feb 25, 2010 23:25
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Does anyone have a method of doing white/grey lenses or gems? The eyes on my firedragon look a bit flat compared to the rest and i'd really like to give them some depth but getting a white gem look with the standard dark-light-white spot method doesn't seem like it would work for white?
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Feb 27, 2010 01:53
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Finished my dragon, didnt want to do indepth blending for all the armor just the helmet. Really needs more front on light in the photo (still messing with lightbox) but the edge highlights are a bit more pronounced, was way too bright (straight golden yellow) originally but a second red wash muted it just enough 
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Feb 27, 2010 16:01
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Yeah I mean it's interesting weathering on a vehicle and very impressive freehanding on the tanks but I'm not seeing how this is the best model ever, or anything other than competent tabletop quality? The basic paint coverage is pretty patchy in parts, overly thick in others and not even in the lines in some places. It's a great example of creative weathering techniques and freehand but uh yeah, no rival to paintvagrant's stuff, at all 
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Mar 1, 2010 09:37
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WIP fire dragon pics from the oath thread   and a better lit shot of the finished one 
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Mar 15, 2010 13:31
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enri posted:Seconding that, they look gorgeous and you're making me re-think my eldar Yep white primer it's blazing orange basecoat with a coat of baal red, then another coat of baal after some edge highlights, particularly focusing on darkening the recessesquote:These are lovely, I just have one request, and that is too use either a little bit more static grass or use some green clump on the bases...the green sets of the red beautifully Yeah I'll add some more grass when I do the other ones bases, and maybe some other bits and pieces
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Mar 15, 2010 22:36
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PaintVagrant posted:white primer owns qtiyd quotin dis. I started white priming when I was doing washes only painting. Then when I was doing normal painting but with a badab wash beforehand. Now I just prime white for everything, honestly if you're applying your basecoats properly (like a fair bit of paint but thinned down) there really shouldn't be any recesses that are missing paint, and even if you do miss a few bits, a drop or two of the appropriate wash right in there should be plenty to fix it up. The difference in colour vibrancy is night and day, nothing I've done in black primer looks anywhere near as good as white primed
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Mar 16, 2010 03:27
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i should be doing my oath right now i'm so close to finishing it, a few edges, eyes and bases i could know it out tonight.. gotta stop being lazy, i've been chopping up vehicles and random chunks of metal plate type bitz with a razor saw to make basing items for my fire dragons, collectively standing in the ruin of a vehicle is the impression im going for also, warham cats :3  
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Mar 18, 2010 10:42
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crosspostin     
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Mar 18, 2010 13:48
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Captain Invictus posted:eerily relevant, even the facial expression She actually looks almost like a fuzzy vampire bat in that picture, perhaps she's a blood angel kitten. Though that weird rear end wide mouth makes her kinda look like the joker. Hm, a blood angel cat with a joker face? Why.. so.. Sanguinius YEAAAAAAHHHHHH!... i'll show myself out 
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Mar 18, 2010 13:56
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WIP shots of the early greenstuff on my farseer  still trying to get the rune to stick down properly, might end up just adding a bit more greenstuff to fill the gap. I think it's almost imperceptably offcenter but it's enough to annoy me a lot so im considering pulling it off and sticking it down again :/ still. Next up is fixing the torso to the legs, casting the bottom tabardy bit of the rune armor to stick over the legs, then greenstuffing the bottom half of his cloak back which will probably be tricky to get right, gonna try drilling in paperclips into the upper torso and bending them along the path of the raised cloak bits as a frame to drape a big sheet of greenstuff over then shape it and trim edges when it cures
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Mar 24, 2010 08:52
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Ashcans posted:This is looking pretty good, I like the robes so far. How did you do the rune on the front? It looks a little like you it might have been cast of something, but I can't think of an existing sculpted rune that shape to use. It's a cast of the top of the farseer's staff, which I've cut off since he'll be getting a converted singing spear anyway
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Mar 24, 2010 22:39
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Look poppin, as only white primer does . white prime owns time qtiyd
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Mar 27, 2010 22:42
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| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 12:27 |
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Almost done with the greenstuff work on my farseer body, needs to be filed/sanded smooth and the ridges on the sash made a bit deeper once its cured enough to hold without mushing it up  then just some greenstuffing of hands/weapons/plan B and it will be readyto prime. I lubricated most of the lower body work with vaseline which has long since driedout but how should i clean residue before priming? i was just gonna try a cotton bud with a bit of soapy water Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Apr 4, 2010 |
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Apr 4, 2010 05:38
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