|
Whew, all the green stuff work on my farseer is done at last. Just waiting for the sash to cure a bit harder (made a new one) so it stops sagging when I pick it up, then I can photograph it all together. Also need to pin my plan B into the hand and sand the joint a little but the actual dicking about with chewing gum putty is done! Nobody answered before but what's the procedure for cleaning vaseline residue off greenstuff before priming? About half ofit was lubricated with vaseline, it's all days dry and mostly sanded too by now, but i'd rather not have the priming gently caress up so I'll want to give it a clean before I go ahead, so how do I clean it? I was thinking cotton bud (q-tip for you crazy yanks) with a bit of warm soapy water but I don't know if that's right since petroleum jelly probably isnt water soluble?
|
# ¿ Apr 5, 2010 08:56 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 17:01 |
|
not the best photos since it's all green and grey but here's my greenstuffed farseer, wrists need filed and I need to pin the destructor flame blast (my oath plan B) to the hand, but first i've gotta find a way to cut the hairpin i stuck it on since I could't find my box of paperclips :/ resisted the clippers and the razor saw so far, and it's too wide for a normal pinhole too urgh
|
# ¿ Apr 5, 2010 11:06 |
|
Morning posted:Thats.... awesome. The blast is a blob of greenstuff in a rounded cone shape on a hair pin (paperclip would have been better this loving bobby pin is impossible to cut, I'm gonna need bolt clippers or something ), twisted around a little bit to give it some turns and bends, then when the GS has cured just a bit, start pulling chunks from the fat end towards the thin end with a small pair of pliers to get the wispy foldy bits, then push with a sculpting tool into the GS towards the fat end to make the deeper recesses. Once it's cured a bit you can poke around the folds and bits that stick out to balance the shape out a bit without ruining the details, was surprisingly easy. The cloak is mostly cast from the lower half of the cloak on the actual farseer model that I bisected to make him, made a greenstuff mould, cast a lower cloak half from it, hacked away at the cast until it was thin and smooth enough to pass for an actual flowing cloak then positioned it at an angle to the body and filled in the cap with greenstuff sculpted to match the folds on the top and bottom halves, then filed everything down as smooth as I could. My first real attempt at greenstuff apart from filling gaps so I'm pretty pleased with how it all turned out
|
# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 00:41 |
|
Welp, finished assembling and priming my seer now need to work out colours, I'm probably keeping to theme with orange-red armor, at the moment I'm thinking bone/white robes, blue belt/sash, dont know about the head though. Im also thinking maybe bluewhite fire for the blast? Just wondering if there might not be enough contrast with orange/red arm and standard red fire. Jetbike I got no idea but I'm thinking mostly orange, maybe sectioned with blue on the front
|
# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 12:20 |
|
WIP farseer, couldnt get the photo properly lit so it's not as bright as it should be, the armor edge highlights still need another coat though. I'm also kinda unhappy with the midsection, just looks messy and i dont know how to make it look better.. a bit of backlining perhaps? I'm rather regretting using enchanted blue, I keep trying on different schemes but everytime I get a dark gw blue it goes on dark as hell even over white. I had to really cover the legs in highlights to get them up brighter, and the torso is still almost black except. I just can't ever get it to not look dull and flat. Still, more work to do on it I guess, just not happy with it at the moment. anyway what I'm really after is colour ideas for the head and flame, I don't want the seer council to exactly match the other units so i'm trying to stay away from white/orange, maybe a dark warm gray with a white faceplate? For the flame a bright/yellow orange might be enough contrast to the more reddish armor but what about whitish blue or green? Cloak probably also needs a thin sepia wash to blend the highlighted areas together, looks really really harsh in the photo Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Apr 8, 2010 |
# ¿ Apr 8, 2010 13:01 |
|
went with gray for the helmet and i think it turned out nicely. i'm pretty happy with how it looks all painted, my main concern was that it look like a proper model and not have blatantly obvious greenstuff sticking out like a sore thumb which I think came off pretty well
|
# ¿ Apr 11, 2010 11:15 |
|
completed my farseer ended up darkening the bit where the flame joins the hand and lightening the hand a bit too to make them more distinct. Wanted to do some freehand on the front of the bike but theres not much room having to work around the rune to do a big centralised thing and i'm not too confident of my ability to pull off a symmetrical pattern so i'll leave it blank and do a white painted rune of some kind on the warlocks jetbikes in the same place so they look like they match the seer
|
# ¿ Apr 14, 2010 12:27 |
|
warp-o crosspost!
|
# ¿ Jun 30, 2010 12:18 |
|
PaintVagrant posted:Those look awesome Yog, when you get a chance you should do an army shot with all your orange eldar together. Here's all the guys I've painted so far long way to go but it's getting there, probably time to do a wave serpent or two this month, then my jetbike troops for august
|
# ¿ Jul 1, 2010 09:05 |
|
I've got no eldar to paint at the moment so I did a red & yellow quartered blackreach terminator last night. I found that quartering isn't really difficult but I guess the extra bit of effort probably mounts up over an entire army, and red/yellow are a cakewalk over white primer, the whole thing was reasonably quick to do to a decent standard. I was originally going to do half red/half white but as it turns out, gently caress painting white, even over white primer. Bits where the primer coverage isn't great or theres a very light wash stain? Hope you like 6+ coats and patchy coverage.
|
# ¿ Jul 8, 2010 02:36 |
|
no edge highlights or anything, just a quick scheme test to give me something to do i dont even have any intention of playing space marines
|
# ¿ Jul 8, 2010 10:10 |
|
finished these guys for my oath this was about 6 hours work time, not including drying for washes and pva, good quality for speed painting i think. knocking out a lot of my rank and file as fast as possible, i'm dead keen on getting my skaven really done for play in tournaments and such. If i keep this pace i can expect them done in short order
|
# ¿ Sep 28, 2010 13:25 |
|
Dr. Lenin posted:What's the method for that yellow? I want to do a color like that for any cloth on my Deathguard. Prime white, golden yellow basecoat, sepia wash. You can then highlight the highest bits with golden yellow maybe + a bit of bleached bone, and a little devlan mud in the deepest folds, quick and effective
|
# ¿ Sep 29, 2010 09:27 |
|
Oh sup thread, it's been a while IoB warlord, first attempt at OSL Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Mar 26, 2011 |
# ¿ Mar 26, 2011 08:28 |
|
quick question, i picked up a decent gravity fed dual action airbrush to go with the compressor i've had for ages, it's got variable pressure and should be perfectly servicable for airbrushing despite advanced age, but it is very very loud. We have shared walls indoors and outside it's still going to echo down the entire street, what's the best way to go about muffling some of the noise, stick it in a box with some padding or what?
|
# ¿ Mar 28, 2011 05:59 |
|
Irate Tree posted:Hey there all. First timer/poster to this forum and thought I'd throw my head into the basket... looks lovely, some washes to add shade would really set it off, try baal red or sepia wash on the orange and asurmen blue on the turquoise, push it into the recesses and that dude will really pop edit: I've done my eldar in a similar scheme but w/ enchanted blue instead of turquoise. these were basecoated fiery orange/echanted blue over white and, washed red (twice) and blue respectively and given a little edge highlighting, easy shading Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Apr 3, 2011 |
# ¿ Apr 3, 2011 13:01 |
|
Almost finished my oath abomination! I'm waiting for the basing glue to dry, I've been doing my bases dark brown but the more i do it the more i think it's melding too much with the warm brown/yellow skaven, so I'm kinda thinking i'm gonna end up repainting them all, the edges at least. What's a good colour here, grey rims and a bit of a grey drybrush over brown sand/rubble?
|
# ¿ May 29, 2011 05:55 |
|
Mr_Happy_Pants posted:That looks awesome. How did you do the metals? The rusty metal is boltgun over white primer, badab wash, then washed again with a mix of devlan mud and fiery orange, adding the paint means it won't flow quite like wash usually does so you'll get a nice spread of rust even on the flatter areas, but you'll likely need to blot up a little of the excess with a paintbrush sicne the paint means it won't dry translucent enough if you leave too much on. then just an edge highlight or drybrush w/ mithril silver
|
# ¿ May 30, 2011 01:16 |
|
crosspostin', finished oath
|
# ¿ May 30, 2011 09:19 |
|
Yeah the skin is all airbrushed, I primed white and basecoated rotting flesh with a little drop of thraka green mixed in over the whole thing, then i did a 45 degree highlight with 50/50 bleached bone/rotting flesh, then a highlight directly above with white. Sprayed a sepia wash over all the flesh, dried it and then repeated the zenithal higlights but with a lighter application. The underbelly and extremeties were washed thraka green then badab black, and a bit of sepia/devlan painted directly into the deepest creases around the faces and other bits that needed blacklining. The whole project only took me the weekend working in fits and starts as it grabbed me. Love. That. Airbrush.
|
# ¿ May 31, 2011 00:22 |
|
i like seeing well painted pp stuff because i'm convinced i hate most of the models until i see a really good paintjob. id wanted to switch to warmahordes for a new army because the local rise on already ridiculous AU prices + no foreign reselling is just asking a ridiculous amount of money for an army, lots even to get started, and its only distaste for the models that puts me off. maybe im just used to gw dreadnought aesthetic and im subconsciously prejudiced about robot mans. and the airbrush calls to flat surfaces, oh yes edit: menoth actually looks pretty sweet, or trollbloods maybe.. think im going to pick up a new system, bugger gw prices. if i still want to play 40k with my mates i think i'll change my blood angels idea to ebay AoBR-wing Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Jun 1, 2011 |
# ¿ Jun 1, 2011 13:22 |
|
If you want to use the airbrush for non basecoating stuff yeah, need a pressure regulator. between adjusting pressure and the thinness of your paint + a double action brush and you'll be able to get pretty much any spray intensity you want
|
# ¿ Jun 3, 2011 03:56 |
|
murder the person who sculpted and cast these shredders
|
# ¿ Jun 9, 2011 01:24 |
|
dont know about the brands you get in the US but i've always had less than ideal results with cheaper tube acrylics, a lot of the time the pigment separates out and even after shaking it doesn't seem to thin evenly or well for me. seems prone to breaking up into little cloudy 'clumps' in water rather than dissolving smoothly, also had them completely block up my airbrush 3 or 4 times before i gave up using them, however thin at a usable tint some bits just wouldnt dissolve and stuck to everything :/ but if you can get a reliable brand go for it for basic colours, despite the shortcomings i still used black/a scorched brown equivalent/white and other colours for mixing out of big tubes, just don't (imo) use it for visible finishes because yeah it's notably shinier and plastic-ier-looking than say gw paints alongside it
|
# ¿ Jan 20, 2012 01:54 |
|
Sole.Sushi posted:Okay, head count: how many of us are doing airbrushed Grey Knights as their current project, right now? I know Hermetic and myself are, and then Drumstick, so who else? We need to pick each others brains for this poo poo. i was gonna but decided against it. still don't know what i'm doing but it involves an airbrush. space wolves? ogres maybe? idk
|
# ¿ Jan 22, 2012 09:11 |
|
i really do want to start a new force to airbrush from the getgo so it all looks the same but i just dont know what to do :/ gone between ogres space wolves vc tombkings blood angels csm ugh why is deciding things hard. i could always try and finish my skaven but.. nah.
|
# ¿ Jan 22, 2012 10:33 |
|
ive cleared a space on the table, put my miniatures case on it, and brought out a couple of pots of paint, over the course of the last hour. some time tonight, some of these clanrats are getting some paint on them. sometime.
|
# ¿ Jan 23, 2012 08:04 |
|
welp i just finished washing some 40 odd clanrats ive had sitting around half painted for god knows how long, and won a $26 tactical squad on ebay (gently caress you aus gw $60 my power armoured rear end). i should finish the last 3 or so clanrats and start painting bases i suppose once these dry, not painted to any great standard but that's the only way i'm ever going to get a relatively finished skaven army, in it's second decade it really does need to be finished i think. got my eyes on more ebay things, i'm gonna paint me a bunch of salamanders real quick with an airbrush but i promise ill keep painting piles of slaves.. yes
|
# ¿ Jan 25, 2012 11:40 |
|
dettol works but you can get simple green at bunnings and a bunch of other hardware places
|
# ¿ Jan 26, 2012 11:48 |
|
Like painting, hate assembling. Well that's 10 tactical marines together sans shoulders and bolters. Ill prime them later tonight and tomorrow theyve got an appointment with the airbrush. After i laboriously clean dried paint out of it.
|
# ¿ Feb 1, 2012 09:45 |
|
alternatively, acquire an airbrush. if you're painting marines you owe this to yourself.
|
# ¿ Feb 6, 2012 23:46 |
|
filling in gaps and sculpting missing parts are not the same thing. if i had the ability and desire to sculpt a miniature in detail i would not be buying it off gw in the first place.
|
# ¿ Feb 9, 2012 01:47 |
|
joining the favourite train, these fire dragons are among my best painted models
|
# ¿ Mar 7, 2012 04:55 |
|
oh i forgot about this dude, he's even out on my dining table right now derp, definitely my favourite model in all respects
|
# ¿ Mar 7, 2012 07:07 |
|
or, prime white. (prime white)
|
# ¿ Mar 17, 2012 14:13 |
|
I did the bell, censer, carriage and crews separately as subassemblies, but I was also magnetizing mine at the same time so by and large i didn't need to worry about gluing painted pieces together. Still the only really fiddly bit will be sticking the censer into the arch of the carriage properly and there's plenty of flex in those pieces to pop it in once it's painted
|
# ¿ Mar 20, 2012 01:49 |
|
Red Shoe posted:Does anyone know of some good conversion parts for a disc or chariot of Tzeentch? I'm aware of the GW provided disc below but if I could find an alternate arcane platform or chariot that would preferable. what about the chaos mortal lord on disc?
|
# ¿ Mar 20, 2012 01:51 |
|
not an exact size but here it is in a blister, kinda looks like it falls between ogre and treeman size
|
# ¿ Mar 30, 2012 05:23 |
|
crosspost airbrushed ogre wip love this finish across a whole battalion of ogres in just a couple of hours. Now to arduously remask and airbrush the pants
|
# ¿ Apr 1, 2012 11:29 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 17:01 |
|
ratios are for the weak put acrylic paint in mixing pot, add windex and or medium until slightly thinner than normal milk-paint consistency, apply and pray the random tube of acrylic you're testing out isn't one of those chunky pigmented ones that just doesn't thin down properly and struggles to get out the nozzle (one colour of 3 aint bad)
|
# ¿ Apr 2, 2012 06:38 |