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almost as much as i hate painting enchanted blue (looks good)
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Apr 8, 2012 06:39
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Swags posted:Nerds. that depends if you can get an even, complete primer coat and the primer gives you a finish you're happy with. a lot of that depends on the paint but youll also inevitably get bits unsprayed and gray/metal looks bad on a finished model. you'll likely apply a few thin basecoats out of necessity rather than choice in my experience but if you get good primer and its complete and nicely finished why bother  . may as well experiment since you're going to prime them either way.
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Apr 8, 2012 15:24
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crossposting oath ogre  15 more to finish heh
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Apr 9, 2012 04:32
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CommissarRed posted:I really dig these, man. I avoided doing actual flesh tones myself, but you did a bang up job. thanks  filthy crossposting my bad photos of finished ironguts   
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Apr 9, 2012 14:31
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went to the art store and got some flowaid and black/sienna ink for making softbody black and flesh washes, also picked up a pot of agrax earthshade since i was wary of not getting a substitute right, also the only translucent burnt umber acrylic ink available in this place was like $15 so gently caress that. also, these  plastic pipettes at just over a buck for a pack of 5, now i can keep my fliptop bottles and still precisely drop out paint and wash mixes  edit: also having assembled this ogre battalion i'm still left with a ton of bitz, im guessing it wouldn't be uncommon to buy a box of 6 bulls and use these leftovers to build another 3 ironguts rather than buy a 'guts box which only has 4 dudes in it? That should also leave me one bull (to add to the existing 6 with a firebelly for a 4x2 unit perhaps) and two bodies to convert into a butcher and a bruiser, tons of little gnoblars and pouches and cleavers and bits of meat from the battalion sprues practically begs to slapped onto a character conversion Yog-Sothoth fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Apr 12, 2012 |
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Apr 12, 2012 06:19
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crosspostin' completed leadbelchers! 
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Apr 12, 2012 14:57
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find a shade colour you like, get it in acrylic ink and mix your own wash  i started doing this last night with a badab black substitute, first batch is thicker and has a higher dry time but is significantly.. um.. contract-ier when it dries than gw washes, pulling off raised surfaces and really settling into the cracks. Absolute magic for wash (less so for colour glazing but i already use paint thinned right down with medium for that, washes still end up splotchy on flat areas). You can play with the properties of your washes as you like by varying the ratios of ink:medium:flowaid:water got the recipe from awesomepaintjob and started out making a big bottle of their wash base (50% medium, 50% 10:1 mix of water and flowaid), then dripping the ink into empty GW wash pots (0.4 floz and the example pictures/ink amounts are for 1oz bottles so adjust accordingly) and filling up with wash base. shake WELL before every use! http://www.awesomepaintjob.com/index.cfm/resources.recipes also note that in my region i couldn't find "flow aid" anywhere locally, but the same product is sold under a number of lines as "surface tension breaker" - does what it says on the bottle
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Apr 13, 2012 03:34
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^isn't it in an aerosol can, generally? crosspost party! linky for big         
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Apr 15, 2012 03:27
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CommissarRed posted:Too good to be on the bottom of the last page. AWESOME Ogres, man. thank you it's a thin glaze of a little blood red watered down with a bunch of acrylic medium (not explicitly matte so i think that accounts for why it was a bit shiny but it all evened out when sealed), i ended up doing 2 coats of this i think
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Apr 15, 2012 04:37
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you can if you do gradual layering but if you intend to do this on every shoulderpad across an army of marines youll probably want to shoot yourself before long, and theres no simple line type highlight that's going to look right, in my experience at least. you can do a thin stroke along the top with a slightly lighter colour but as you said its pretty subtle and its a bunch of extra effort. i usually just prefer to have a strongly contrasting trim colour on the pads and wash the inside edges dark to separate them, looks plenty good on the table.
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Apr 20, 2012 15:13
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primer is meant to be toothier than normal paint but in the case of white primer you still want to do a couple of thin white basecoats. its more apparent with white but generally you dont get an even finish quality coverage out of a primer spray, basecoating is necessary to even everything out even if its the same colour as the primer
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Apr 20, 2012 16:22
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if your airbrush is clogging your paint is probably not thinned enough. I use gravity feed but even then you want very thinned paint, 9 times out of 10 a clog is insufficiently thinned paint - also you want to thin your paint first, then pour it into the jar, mixing in the jar is a recipe for sucking up those insufficiently dissolved clumps and clogging your airbrush
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Apr 27, 2012 18:20
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crossposting completed ogre slaughtermaster/bsb   
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Apr 29, 2012 05:06
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Oh gently caress, it's a late-90's Judas Priest cover. screaming for fenris
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May 2, 2012 05:38
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primed my infinity dudes and  i dont know if its because i just finished painting a ton of ogres or because they aren't 28mm-apeman gw proportions throwing me but these guys are proper tiny. And detailed. real tiny brush for everything here i think. since theres so few of them going to attempt at least a degree of blending on all these similar to the studio scheme. im not yet sure if it will be pleasantly quicker because of the relatively small areas to cover, or a painstakingly slow struggle with tiny detail areas guess we're about to find out 
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May 3, 2012 10:28
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"it changes as i play"
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May 4, 2012 15:43
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always always always mix then pour, mixing in the cup however you go about it is almost certainly going to end with a chunk of unmixed paint causing clogs. especially gravity feds since the paint is more dense than water it's going to fall straight down onto the needle and sink
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May 8, 2012 07:10
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InternetJunky posted:I've always been curious why no one uses oil paints with minis. I've done a few oil washes now with great results, but I was wondering about doing the whole mini so I picked up a starter pack of oil colours today and am going to give it a try. Has anyone else tried this? likely because oils take a very long time to dry, days for touchdry and weeks to months to properly cured ready for sealing. youd be doing thinner applications on miniatures but it's still not really practical unless youre doing washes or lots of blending because your colours are just going to seep together unless you leave it days between layers
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May 9, 2012 03:32
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