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Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

PaintVagrant posted:

kind of out of focus, going to reshoot them when I reshoot the whole army tomorrow




Dammmmmmn. Really making me want to rework my paint scheme for my Deathguard. Very nice work man.

I haven't painted in two years, so its a bit rough getting back into it - very rusty. Here is my Deathguard WIP test model. Still need to thin down my paints some more, they are surprisingly still liquid even though its been awhile since I opened them, but they could use a bit of water..



I based with Scorched Brown, drybrush on Rotting Flesh, followed by two thin coats of more Rotting Flesh to smooth it out. Raised edges / Borders are Catachan Green based with Camo Green over it. All recesses then given a thin lining of Scorched Brown to smooth it out a bit. I might need to darken the armor color slightly because I can't make any bone stand out from the armor. I could use some critique and advice. [Edit: Probably going to stop drybrushing, I think its what is giving me the unwanted coarseness on the figures.]

And a plague zombie I'm working on. To show how Papa Nurgle loves sharing his gift with everyone regardless of race, I'm salvaging old and broken IG, Marine, Eldar, Ork, and even 'Nids to make a zombie horde.

Fake James fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Nov 9, 2009

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Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Yet another cross post from GBS:

Work in progress still, but it's looking better than the one I posted awhile back. Devlan Mud makes everything better. At first I was going to post that the contrast between the armor color and the trim didn't come out as well as it did in the concept, but it looks better under the light of my flash than under the halogen lamp on my desk.

Critique the poo poo out of it please, I have only recently starting painting again after about 1 and 1/2 years of not doing anything with Warhammer and while I am relearning techniques quickly, I could still use some advice.







Edit: PaintVagrant, do you take on apprentices? Everytime I see your posts with Deathguard I lose faith in my attempts at painting

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

PaintVagrant posted:

I think how you base it is really going to make or break it. Any ideas?

Not fully sure yet. I wanted to try doing the sprue cobblestones from some pages back, but its too late for the ones I've already started on unless I'm realllllly careful with snaping off the bases and replacing them (might have to anyways, used a bit too much glue on a few and some hardened drops are making the feet look melted into the bases). Either that or the standard sand+static grass - never used grass before so it would be fun to experiment.

Or I can always break out some zombie bits and make them walking on a field of corpses... I'm rather indecisive.

VVV I mean just putting an arm or head down instead of a rock, I could see how putting a lot more props down would distract majorly. VVV

Fake James fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Nov 23, 2009

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Finally finished painting one! Just need to figure out how I am going to base it and I'll be done with the entire model. At first I didn't believe that Devlan Mud was the most useful wash out there, but 80% of the model used it at one step or another so I guess it really is a good wash!



Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Fix posted:

Fuckin dusty-assed white primer. Armory or Krylon, I'm getting some really grainy poo poo out of these things. poo poo sucks.

I was getting a chalky texture from the Krylon White Primer, you need to shake it for a minute longer than usual it seems and hold it an inch or two closer. I sprayed somewhere between 6"-4" away from the models and it came out alright, but I did two coats to get a more opaque white so that might have been what helped smooth it down more in the end.

edit: I do like that the krylon cans have that 360 degree head, spraying from left to right with a vertical spray makes it much easier than blasting it with a circle of primer. Now its like my minis are going through a tiny car wash

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Fix posted:

1/8" x 1/16"

Are they thin enough that you can just glue them to the arm joints, or do you still need to set them into the mini a bit? Also, is it better to use two magnets or just use one magnet on the body and a layer of magnetic paint on the arm?

Edit: Also, are there any magnets tiny enough to connect a gun to an arm (so I can switch out assault weapons depending on the battle) or is that too small?

Fake James fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Nov 30, 2009

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

would the 1/8" x 1/32" magnets be too thin for supporting arms? I want to have to do as little drilling / cutting as possible as all my guys are metal.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

The Saddest Robot posted:

I was looking at some of Les's Awesomepaintjob videos and in one of them he busted out some dry pigments with rubbing alcohol for rust and weathering effects. His comments mention 90% isopropyl alcohol but all I can find in my area is 70% isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone have any idea what difference that would make?

I imagine it means that it will take longer to dry up, and might cause some stuff to get runny or clump more. Try a walgreens or CVS (if you are in the states, that is), the isopropyl alcohol I got there is 91%.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

How long does green stuff take to dry? I think its been around an hour now and its still kind of flexable. The green stuff itself is a few years old, could that have anything to do with it?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Oh man what do I do with all these extra parts from a partially completed Space Wolves army that were given to me by a friend, considering I play a Deathguard army? I just don't know what to d-




oh yeah that

edit: I'll see you guys in about 6 months when I finish all 25 marines, 2 Rhinos, and 6 bikes.

Fake James fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Dec 14, 2009

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

When greenstuff dries, should it still be somewhat elastic or should it be rock hard? Because I rolled som scrap bits into a ball, flatened it to a brick, and after more than 12 hours I can still bend it. It eventually unbends to its original shape, but it's supposed to become super hard right?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Fix posted:

Depends on your mix of yellow to green stuff. More yellow means slower dry, if I remember right, maybe even just ends up rubbery.

It's also like 4 years old, does kneadite have an "expiration date" of sorts?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Sole.Sushi posted:

There will always be some elasticity to green stuff, even after a full cure. It's not going to be a rock-hard product no matter what you do to it. As far as I know, only epoxies that have actual metal in them (like JB Weld) cure to anything of significant hardness.

EDIT: as far as I am aware, epoxies have no true shelf-life limitation. So long as the components are separate, they should last indefinitely.

Thanks for the info, and same to you Fix. Just remembered I picked up some "Mix -n- Fix" epoxy putty from a hardware store a few weeks ago, I got 3 4oz tubes for $5. Hardens in 20 min, and is great for a base for larger hand sculpted minis / conversions, like my slug spawn (nicknamed Sluggo) that I made awhile back:


Not the best sculpt, but its a start and its just a lousy spawn anyways.

I might hand build a Greater Demon with this stuff, I'm reserving the actual greenstuff for smaller minis as the Mix-n-Fix tends to stick to my hands all the time when trying to make smaller parts.

Edit: I'm addicted to greenstuff now, making models extra nurgly is fun and easy.

Fake James fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Dec 17, 2009

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Sole.Sushi posted:

To Dr. Lenin:
For adding detail and fine work with a two-part epoxy, don't use one that hardens in 20 minutes.

Oh I know, I'm using it for creating a base to put detail over, kinda making an armature frame with it first. Greenstuffed details will go over that. Thanks for the recommendation of GF9, I was actually about to post asking where I can find more kneadite for cheap!

On a side note, any advice on getting greenstuff to stick well to legs / sides of space marines? I've been using my knife and a pen to shape it, but it always peels off the plastic first with very little effort. Ends up taking a long time to get anything to stick.

Fake James fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Dec 18, 2009

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Sole.Sushi posted:

The project that I spoke of might be relevant to your interests. I can post some photos and a step-by-step if you'd like, as it involves adding green stuff to marines.

This would be great. Thanks for all the advice so far, my method isn't so good when the small amount of work I've done has taken about 30 minutes per torso.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Sole.Sushi posted:

Awesome as all hell guide to greenstuffing

Thanks a lot for this! Putting a bit of water on it has changed everything.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Can someone post a good rust tutorial? I'm throwing together a squad of nurgle bikers and need them to look ugly as sin.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Any recommended websites for buying wh40k bits from? I want to get the DA Robed bodies and heads for converting some Deathguard Chosen, but I don't want to have to buy a whole box.

I usually use Hoard-O-Bits store on Ebay but I want to see what else is out there

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

any recommendations on a good hobby drill that can hold a 1/8" bit? I was doing fine with my small bits and a knife when fitting magnets into plastic, but some of my metal parts are going to be real bitches without a better drill (using the GW one currently)

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Fix posted:

The GW drill holds a 1/8" fine if you take the chuck out and flip it around. You have to squeeze it in a tiny bit, but at least you aren't ruining the chuck for smaller bits.

If you're doing a lot of metal drilling with a 1/8, use a Dremel, and don't forget to first drill guide holes with something smaller or you are going to slip off that bastard and go right into your finger.

I didn't think that side would hold one, it always looked too small to me. Thanks! It's not a lot of metal drilling, just 2 champions. I don't think I can justify the cost of a dremel for just 2 dudes.

On a side note, I found a bunch of Guardsman special weapons, and I have a need for some flamers for my Deathguard on the cheap. Hopefully a few cuts here and there will make them both functional AND pretty!

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Got the 1/8" drill bit and wow it makes magnetizing arms so much easier. Don't even need a dremel for the metal parts, it just takes a minute longer to cut through. Had to wedge it into the hobby drill though, and something tells me it wont come back off so easily. On the plus side, it takes under 15 seconds to fully drill out a hole on plastic.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Fix posted:

Wait till you start doing newer plastic Marine arms. There's a divot at the point where you sink your magnet to line up on and a void behind it. Three good cranks and you're done and the pauldron covers any misalignment like cake. So long as you spot any miscasts as you go you can bang out assembly line like a breeze.

Not that anyone would be so stupid as to do something like that. You'd have to be mad MAD I SAY!

Every single special weapons marine and champion has magnetized arms, and i made sure every magnet's alignment is uniform so all arms are interchangeable across the range. I have a lot of magnets left over still, and I'm considering magnetizing regular bolter carriers just for shits and giggles. I NEED HELP

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Fix posted:

Juuuust one army's worth of arms, you say?

Seriously, don't do it. They're a pain in the rear end to play games with and keep organized. Bolter dudes are better off glued where you can actually move them around a game board and pose them in decent ways.

Yeah I started realizing that before I did my first bolter guy. I magnetized my special weapons arms, but now I'm stuck wondering if I should magnetize the matching arm. On the plus side, everything is entirely interchangeable and I don't need to dedicate one of the three arm types entirely to special weapons. On the down side, they would have the same issue that bolter guys would have.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

I had an unbuilt Space Wolves army laying around when I decided to play Death Guard, and being the cheap man I am I decided to recycle what I could from my Space Wolves into the army. I can't decide if this is going to look really good when painted, but I got tired of spiked knees / hands, frames on every inch of armor, and top knots everywhere.



Any thoughts on how good of an idea this will be? Lots of green stuff will be used of course like with my previous models (if anyone remembers my posts from about 7 months ago that is).

edit: I think I've posted these guys before now that I think about it. Its what I get for being out of the loop for about 7 months

Fake James fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Sep 8, 2010

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Aranan posted:

Do it. Deathguard rock. Although you did say in December that you'd finish "25 marines, 2 Rhinos, and 6 bikes" by June. How'd that go?

hahaha... oh boy, big E/N about that poo poo. Got into a relationship, girl didn't care too much for little space men. I put it all away to make her happy, and then just a few weeks ago she went batshit insane. Now that I am single again I actually have some spare time, but I doubt I can keep up with all the oaths. I'm aiming to finish something by the end of September, not sure what exactly yet though. Hopefully going to at least finish those marines, rhinos, and bikes before the year is over

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

gently caress mold lines. Some of them are so bad on my CSM shoulder pads that i'm going to have to file off all the 'rivets' or whatever they are just to get rid of the lines. Probably will end up springing for a few metal Deathguard pads in the end.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

enri posted:

I was going to mention trying a chunkier sea salt as well as the stuff you're using but that pesky Fix beat me to it!

On the subject of eyes, I just don't bother.. never have and never will

Great thing about playing Deathguard - paint the eyes pure black with some glossiness, claim they have all gone septic

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Some more WIP shots of my Deathguard! Thanks to me being OCD with warhammer, these guys are going to take awhile to complete. Backpacks are just held on with blu-tak until I get around to painting them. All champions and special weapon guys are fully magnetized.

Champions
Most shoulder pads are missing right now, trying to decide which ones fit best universally - all arms are magnetized so I want to make sure any pad that is used fits well with each torso.








(he does have a second leg, its just hard to see because of the angle.)

Raptor Squad (incomplete, still working on last model)


Anyone know of a good way besides magnets (drilling breaks the back torso) to make the winged backpack interchangeable with a jumppack?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Surprise T Rex posted:

Ffff I just decided on collecting Orks over SM/CSM and then you fuckers go and post amazing Nurgle conversions and kickass Revilers. gently caress y'all.

At least one of you is sensible and does Orks.

I may be (at least I think so) awesome with Deathguard conversions, but I always had a soft spot for Orks. You have a lot more conversion awesomeness potential with an Ork army in my opinion.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Yog-Sothoth posted:

finished these guys for my oath





this was about 6 hours work time, not including drying for washes and pva, good quality for speed painting i think. knocking out a lot of my rank and file as fast as possible, i'm dead keen on getting my skaven really done for play in tournaments and such. If i keep this pace i can expect them done in short order

What's the method for that yellow? I want to do a color like that for any cloth on my Deathguard.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

pw pw pw posted:

why why why why why why why why WHY do they put bayonets on these things

Because chaos = more blades and spikes on everything, duh.

I'm considering removing the bayonets from the Combi-bolter CSM terminator arms. I want my DeathGuard army to look like they still somewhat hold to the old chapter beliefs of not blinging everything out with ridiculous stuff. I'm removing most bayonets, all loving top-knots, and you know those spike racks? Spike racks serve no purpose other than to bend and break, as well as to require the tips to be repainted time and time again.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Hi guys! Well, I'm finally getting back into finishing my Deathguard army after about 2 years of not touching anything. I tried reading through 400+ pages of what I had missed, but ugh I had to stop and just browse the last 5, so I apologize if I missed anything I might touch on in this post. Cool to see there are new GW paints! Had a ton of questions for you guys:

1) I was wondering - is there a good method to restoring almost dried up GW paints, or should I just toss them? (As an added bonus, I found bottles of Chestnut, Red, Magenta, and Purple Ink, as well as a bottle of Devlan Mud that are all still good after 2+ years )

2) In the new GW paints, what are good replacements for the following?
-Rotting Flesh
-Camo Green
-Catachan Green
-Devlan Mud
-Bronzed Flesh
-Snakebite Leather
-Beastial Brown

I was painting my guys like this, if it helps:


(The main color is Rotting Flesh with Devlan Mud over it, but in the photo it kind of looks like Bleached Bone)

3) I prime white because then I do a Rotting Flesh base layer right over it. Which white spray primer is the best to use nowadays? And what is better for touching up spots the spray misses, white gesso or the new GW white base paint?

4) Can the old GW paints still be found in some stores, or do they all carry only the new ones now?

Last but not least...
5) If anyone lives near Downers Grove, IL, can they recommend a good local hobby store?

Thanks in advance, and I am looking forward to getting my Deathguard finished!

Fake James fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Apr 7, 2012

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Welp, I have some work ahead of me. This is my full Deathguard army in its current state:



A lot of assembly and painting to do... good thing Netflix exists!

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

The nickel coating (or whatever it is, the shiny stuff) on my magnets seems to be cracking and falling off. Will this have any effect on their holding strength?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Sole.Sushi posted:

None at all. I would, however, put a layer of gloss varnish or other sealant (matte varnish isn't strong enough for this purpose) over the magnet to prevent further cracking.

Thanks! I'll give that a try.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

So here's another WIP shot on my converted Deathguard. Let me know if I'm overdoing the greenstuff, I'm new to using it. Would love to hear some critique!


Top knots are for greenskins. I'm cutting most of them off.


I'm going to use the middle guy as an icon bearer of some sort.




I used more yellow than blue with these. Will it still have the same hardness when it is done curing as the darker green mixes?


I'm going to make the exhaust ports look organic. Still a few things to add to this one.

Bonus: Found this guy in my bits box. Besides being proud of painting this guy 5 years ago when I wasn't too good yet, he's for sale or trade.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Lethemonster posted:

Do a tutorial. Please! These look great and I want to nurglify some of my space mans soon. Let me steal your tricks and pass them off as my own...

Its pretty simple! Keep everything wet, and use something pointy (tooth pick, large safety pin, or probe) to carve small lines. Large holes and chips on the edges were done with a ball point pen tip. I'm not sure if its fully necessary, but score the surface of the model first so it grips better. When you add a ball or "sausage" of green stuff, cut into the sides a bit to give it that stringy, sticky attached look. Remember to keep everything wet, it helps keep tools from sticking and reduces the chances of fingerprints showing in the greenstuff!



Question: Which GW white would be better for covering spots missed by spray primer - the new base white or the layer replacement for Skull White?

Edit: Also, just to get a general interest check - if I get burned out painting or fall behind on rent, would anyone be interested in buying my converted DG?

Fake James fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Apr 13, 2012

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

My kingdom for tips on how to keep brushes from curling.
(someone please help me, I just bought new brushes and they're already getting bad)

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Is there a preferred method for slightly thickening citadel paints without overdoing it and drying out an entire pot? I bought the last of the rotting flesh I could find, and all of them are too thin to use effectively for a drybrushing.

Also if anyone knows where a good stash of the old paint colors can be found, or the Rotting Flesh equivalent in Vallejo or Reaper, that'd be great as well.

Edit: Just remembered one more question - I'm looking for a good guide for pale, diseased / dead skin - I was thinking layer light grey > wash red/purple > drybrush white. Is that a good method, or does someone know of a better?

Fake James fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jun 19, 2012

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Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Mango Polo posted:

Dead Flesh for Vallejo Game Color.
Pale Olive for Reaper.

This chart is not always accurate, but it's a good starting point to find equivalents.

e to your e: Something like this? Or maybe this?

Thanks man!

The second link has closer examples to what I'm looking for. My Deathguard's armor color is primarily Rotting Flesh so I figure a little purple in there will stand out, while going somewhat well with the pale green trim. This is really helpful, I appreciate it.

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