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Any advice on what colors to try using for cloth on my Death Guard? I need something for my Champion's loin cloth as well as for these parts, which are present on the majority of my models:  I originally thought of using the yellow technique Yog-Sothoth used on his Skaven's robes from a long time ago, but now I think it might clash with the rest of the theme and stand out too much. My color scheme, for those who aren't tired of seeing my half finished models yet: 
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Mar 7, 2014 16:24
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Post 9-11 User posted:Re: sealing magnets Thanks. I put on a double layer of dullcote earlier this week, after discovering that the painted coating peeled off completely on all my attached magnets (I think it's from age? They're like 5 years old). Will that hold well for light gaming (once a month, tops)? Or should I pick up some gloss coat and put some over the dull, followed by another dull coating to play it safe? It was a bitch to clean all the magnet dust off of everything. edit: Just read that you wrote to do the gloss coat AFTER painting. I'll do that.
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Mar 7, 2014 17:55
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I swear I'm actually going to it this time  For real though, I just finished stripping an old lovely paint job off the rest of my metal plague marines. They're going to get primed after work tonight and then it's onto finally making some progress.
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Mar 7, 2014 18:24
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I forgot how great chestnut ink smells.  Yes, this means progress is finally happening! Did the GW washes change when they became known as shades? I feel like my new agrax earthshade is spreading better than my old devlan mud, but I can't tell if that's just because the devlan mud was bought like 3 years ago. edit: VVVVVVV That owns, dude. Keep up the good work! VVVVVVV Fake James fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 06:33
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Pierzak posted:CA glue tends to decay. If you glue is older than 2 months, you may want to get a new tube. Huh, didn't know that about CA glue. I've been using a bottle I've had for 5-6 months now and it seems to be fine, but when binding larger plastic pieces it's hard to tell if the quality is slipping. Any quality loss over time when it's dry? Does it become more brittle as it ages? Also, this is the first time I've been happy with how my marines' eyes (visors? view holes?) have come out:  Usually I just left them black or unintentionally made them look like  .
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Mar 12, 2014 15:23
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First time ever freehanding a symbol. My hands are too shaky for this. Now it's time to paint a backpack and some arms!   I'm not too happy with how the head came out, but I'm not sure what to do at this point. There's already a good amount of layers and I don't want to strip him just to fix one small detail. Any recommendations?
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Mar 13, 2014 05:54
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Pacheeco posted:This looks great, stop being overly critical of your work. Definitely don't try and go back and "fix" the head. If you do that there's a 95% chance you really will mess it up, it's one of those certainties. Finish that one and move on to the next one and don't stop until you have an entire unit completely finished. I've really got to get better at this. I spent so much more time painting single models in the past that I keep forgetting I have a whole army ahead of me to paint. I really should think more about just getting it all to tabletop quality and save the better work for individual characters. Gravitas Shortfall posted:I got one. I should probably buy this as an emote for you guys when I'm all done.
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Mar 13, 2014 14:53
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Doctor Zero posted:It really is a psychological shift. It's very much like writing - nothing is ever done, you just get tired of improving it and call it "sufficient." I'm trying to get over this, it's even spilled into my photography. I'm almost never happy with any of my work and need to remind myself to just put my best foot forward, even if it's not necessarily the best foot ever. I won't post any more photos until I have a full squad painted!
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Mar 13, 2014 21:21
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berzerkmonkey posted:I don't think they're asking you to stop posting photos - just don't worry about every little detail. Besides, if you're painting, you won't have time to post photos! I know, it's mainly just to force myself to buckle down and get them done instead of showing off only half finished figures. Btw, anyone know of a recommended guide to painting rust that doesn't require special texture paints or use real rust like the link in the OP? Edit: NVM, found a guide. Fake James fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Mar 14, 2014 |
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Mar 13, 2014 22:20
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Is it true that GW metallics are poo poo now? What brand do people recommend for metallics these days?
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Mar 14, 2014 15:40
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Dumb question - how long do cans of spray paint (Duplicolor Auto Primer, specifically) last before quality starts to degrade? Like, if I have a can that I bought 2 years ago, will it still work as well as a new can?
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Mar 15, 2014 15:49
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Barring catastrophic failure (IE you haven't been storing it on your porch) it should be fine. I have GW cans that still have the old style can with the evil face on it and those date from the mid to late 90's (goblin green and ultramarine blue primer specifically RIP). Test spray some sprue before hand just to check, but most cans of spray paint are mean't to have as a tool that you use repeatedly over time and therefor have decently long shelf life. If it's bad you'll know because it will skunk (turn very powdery) or drip (come out almost like a gloopy spatter) due to either the paint or the propellant being gone/bad. Sweet, thanks. And now I just realized when I tried testing the can this morning I forgot to clear the nozzle. Derp. Fake James fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Mar 15, 2014 |
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Mar 15, 2014 22:45
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white priming question: I noticed Duplicolor goes on super thin, is 1-2 layers sufficient or should I give my figures enough coats to be fully white?
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Mar 18, 2014 02:00
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Gotcha. I think I've been treating primer as a basecoat most of my life then. At least this stuff is amazingly thin so it doesn't look like I lost much, if any, detail on the stuff I overprimed earlier.
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Mar 18, 2014 03:19
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I'm going to try that approach, as its usually hard for me to get off my rear end to get started on new things. Tomorrow is going to be kinda decent out so I should be able to prime all the stuff I have ready to paint after work - including repriming the stuff I did tonight, as I just noticed all the fleshy bits on my plague marine parts got gunked up with primer 
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Mar 18, 2014 05:56
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Under 15 posted:Yeah, drink and paint. There are a lot of things I can't do very well when I drink, but painting isn't one of them - I don't think you could really tell the difference between my sober painting and four beers in, except that it was a lot slower. IIRC, one of the issues of White Dwarf I read when I was a youngin' suggested drinking a glass of wine to calm your shaky painting hand.
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Mar 19, 2014 01:17
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Will Super Clean dissolve glue or plastic?
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May 29, 2014 18:32
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Sweet, thanks. I noticed that the paint color conversion charts are off, in relation to the old GW Rotting Flesh. It says GW's new Nurgling Green and Reaper's Dead Flesh are matches, but both are yellow-green while Rotting Flesh is beige with a slight tint of pale green. Really wish I could find a more accurate replacement, but I guess switching to a bone color would work too when I soon run out of Rotting Flesh. drat inconsistencies 
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May 29, 2014 18:54
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ijyt posted:I'd like some input on how to shade my yellow. This guy was shaded with brown (Agrax Earthshade) but I'm wondering whether to switch to a yellow shade, like Casandora Yellow. My rats are painted up as Clan Skurvy, who operate the sewer waterways, which is why I originally used brown to make them a bit dingier. How'd you do the rust on the armor? I've looking for a way to make my knives and bolters look more beaten up and nurgley, and that is perfect.
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Jun 5, 2014 15:36
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:I finished another guy! My Death Guard have a really similar color scheme going, but I went for a more "spoiled" shade of white and green. I really like your choice of colors, they really pop the contrast better than mine do. Looking good!
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Jun 10, 2014 14:53
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Thanks! Truthfully, I wanted to do a worn down, used and abused look to the power armor because they were supposed to be infested with body controlling space bug parasites (Warp? Tyranid? Both? Spooooky!) instead of zombies and the bugs wouldn't care what condition the armor was in. I'd still like to figure out how to do convincingly worn and rusted/fungal look if I can for my pile of 2nd edition retro plague marines, but this treatment will do for now. Six years ago when I originally planned this army I wanted to cross a defiler kit with carnifex claws and carapace pieces for an artillery monster but now there are dinobots and soulgrinders and such so it's all up in the air. I've been using seraphim sepia and agrax earthshade washes over Rotting Flesh (old GW color, not sure what the equivalent is now - looks like bone), and it gives the armor a dirty, worn down look. I now started using Athonian Camoshade wash over my green parts, has the same effect as earthshade only with a slightly putrid green tint. They work wonders for dirtying up your dudes. Edit: Not my best photo, but it's an example of what I'm doing to make them look worn down: 
Fake James fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 11, 2014 01:24
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Helmholz posted:3rd edition WH40K starter set Ohhh the memories.  Same as SRM, that's how I got started with the game. My brother won a set through a FLGS' contest, and then bought some 2nd ed Tyranid models. I think I read the rule book cover to cover at least 20 times.
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Jun 17, 2014 15:11
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Finally getting back to painting, just wanted to say 2 things: 1) you guys paint really gorgeous models and this thread is the only thing pushing me to work on my stuff, and 2) gently caress painting CSM backpacks
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Aug 9, 2014 19:06
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When CA glue starts to break down when it's old, does it every become "watery" or does it always thicken up? My bottle seems to be runnier than I remember, but then again I haven't glued anything in about 4 months so maybe it's my imagination?
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Aug 24, 2014 15:02
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I was hoping to have a full squad of Death Guard to (finally) show off tonight, but my cat decided that my painting table was a good place to play and well  Luckly most of the squad was on my bookshelf, so I only need to fix a couple of dudes and a backpack. Here's my guys so far! Just need a few touch ups and some basing:  The second from the left dude is my test model, so he looks very slightly different than the rest. I'm pretty happy with how the champion's backpack came out, it was a lot of trial and error:  Same with the rib cage shoulder pad:  I'm aiming to have the rest of the guys done soon! I tend to take a couple month breaks from painting whenever something else distracts me, so hopefully that doesn't happen this time around. BTW, anyone in the Chicago area that knows a good place to get natural hair brushes that aren't too expensive? I can't drop the money on any Kolinsky brushes, and I've hit many a Michaels and Blick only to find what remains of their stock beaten to hell (kids need to loving stop messing up every brush on display) Fake James fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Aug 27, 2014 |
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Aug 27, 2014 05:09
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PVA glue = Elmers white glue right? Because if so, no way in hell am I paying $8 for Games Workshop school glue
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Sep 11, 2014 05:46
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