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signalnoise posted:Can someone do a goon recommendation write-up on the materials needed to make plaster molds? I want to replicate mosaic floor tiles to make city streets and walls and such, and as much as I like Hirst stuff it isn't always exactly what I want. I bought a bunch of Legos, some plastic card sheets, and Mold Max 30 (probably on the recommendation of something on the Hirst Arts site?), then followed the Hirst Arts mold maxing instructions. The two molds I tried it on turned out reasonably well, even given that I was doing fairly tiny pieces. It smells kinda awful and the MSDS for the chemicals mildly scared me, but smooth sailing past that! 
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Apr 7, 2013 09:01
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Nebalebadingdong posted:More WIP for Rocket Rat! Where did you get the rocket? 
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Apr 19, 2013 21:24
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Swags posted:So I'm running an Iron Kingdoms game and the PCs have a wagon to travel in, and for some reason they loving love the wagon. They love it so much, and are super protective of it, so rather than be the dick DM and blow it up or something, I want to just get them a wagon minature, put it on a 60mm base from Warmachine, and hopefully have it be able to fit a few 30mm bases and one or two 40mm bases for the characters. I stumbled on some wagons while browsing randomly yesterday. Perhaps something on here might work for you? Some specific examples: http://www.thewarstore.com/product33421.html http://www.thewarstore.com/product39920.html http://www.thewarstore.com/product72028.html http://www.thewarstore.com/product72088.html http://www.thewarstore.com/product84699.html
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May 26, 2013 21:27
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Dr. Lenin posted:The one thing I never nailed down a technique for is painting dead flesh. Are there any good guides you guys recommend? I want something that gives my plague marines a drowned corpse look. I couldn't make zombies look right until I went out of my way to buy zombie-colored paint, for lack of a better term. I've got the Reaper's Moldy Skin, and that plus some inking seem to yield a fairly serviceable zombie. Perhaps a little cartoon-y, but I tend to like the look.
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Jun 17, 2013 19:29
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Verdugo posted:In regards to Reaper bones, they say they don't need to be primed but is that really true? Or am I better served giving them a prime coat anyway? They've done testing on it, and if you feel you must use a primer, check the lists that they have in this post. Some primers do not dry properly on the Bones figures. Edit: I've done painting on a few of their preexisting line. At least with their own paint line, they don't need to be primed. I did have some coverage issues at first, but I had been thinning my basecoat, and that apparently doesn't work so well. Iris of Ether fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 19:46
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dexefiend posted:It is based off Matte Medium, Flow Enhancer, distilled water, and then inks for color. Will this also solve my problem of 'why do my washes always look blotchy'? I've usually just been using inks thinned down with a lot of Reaper 'Flow Improver'. It looks mostly okay in the depressions, but any flat areas usually look pretty crappy.
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Jul 11, 2013 20:34
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Dr. Clockwork posted:I've heard some good things about Envirotex Lite, which apparently is the super gloss poo poo they coat bars with. I might have to try that. I've used Envirotex Lite, and it works well enough for reasonably hard water effects on my terrain pieces. I don't know how it would work on a small base, though. Hirstarts has some tips on how to use it: http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#water http://www.hirstarts.com/tips24/tips24.html#hole
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Sep 2, 2013 04:18
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For those of you who do sci-fi or modern terrain, do you have any suggestions on where I can get something that passes as lengths of metal scaffolding? I'd need maybe 16-20" worth. I am specifically referring to long lengths like this: http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-26614276/stock-photo-details-of-theatrical-concert-exhibition-stage-lights.html Edit: I am in the US.
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Sep 5, 2013 23:25
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dexefiend posted:Look for Plastruct ABS Trusses Fantastic, thanks! JEEVES420 posted:Evergreen or Plasticard. HobbyTown USA stores have stuff like that. signalnoise posted:If it was me I'd use square brass tubes. Thank you as well. I'll bookmark these.
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Sep 6, 2013 04:29
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Oh hey. Someone on my Facebook posted an entire chapter of Ultramarines for sale. Which of you is going to finish painting this first?
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Sep 17, 2013 02:54
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signalnoise posted:Can we talk about plaster for a minute? I recently got a second set of 5 hirst molds and I'm having a hell of a time getting the bricks to stick to each other. I've tried- Hmm, admittedly I'm using just straight dental plaster, but cheapass Aleene's Original Tacky works well enough. I tried to pull off a piece from my current Oath (to try and sand down the bottom some more) and I cracked the piece before giving up on it. I've used it on Merlin's Magic in the past (just a single sampler packet I had), and I don't remember it performing worse. Is it just that it takes too long to set? I'd read and post in a terrain thread.
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Sep 17, 2013 21:16
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signalnoise posted:Aleene's works well if all the pieces I've got set up are flush, but it just doesn't work well as a gap sealer. I am in search of the holy grail of dental plaster adhesives, and one of the requirements is going to have to be that it fills gaps from where I've made bricks that aren't perfect. I'm not even close to being a perfect caster yet, and I'll be damned if I'm throwing away all the bricks I've made that aren't perfect. Good point. I'm curious about the answer to this, too, actually. Every time I've seen Hirst or Abaroth doing any sort of massive 'gap sealing' style activity (like for making smooth floors or a stucco-style inset in a wall), they use plaster that's lighter on the water. But I've never actually played around with that, and it still has the 'takes forever to set' problem. Edit: Looks like Abaroth has played with ready mix filler, whatever that is. http://www.abarothsworld.com/Tricks/perfect%20plaster.htm Iris of Ether fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Sep 17, 2013 |
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Sep 17, 2013 22:09
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Asphyxious posted:Cross-posting from the oath thread with some freehand I'm particularly happy with. The lengths I go to for pop culture references... This was probably my favorite freehand of the month in the Oath thread. Not only is it a decent paintjob, but it's also understatedly silly. 
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Sep 30, 2013 18:14
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It's Glam Tiefling o'Clock.  I'm pretty pleased with the coat.
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Oct 8, 2013 20:01
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Reaper threw in a bottle of Entrail Pink from their HQ line with one of my last orders. It is violently bubble gum pink.
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Oct 15, 2013 21:33
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berzerkmonkey posted:richyp, I added a comment for my blog. I post pretty infrequently, but I usually deal with GW Specialist Games, so maybe it will add a little variety once in a while. I'm not really sure how to label it though - maybe you can categorize it? If you like the look at the pavement in the last picture here, it's PVA + Woodland Scenics Snow. I flattened it out when the PVA was still hardening, painted it gray, then washed + drybrushed it. It's got a nice gritty texture to it.
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Nov 3, 2013 00:21
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Seconded on Reaper, especially the Bones series. The weird vinyl Bonesium plastic holds a surprising amount of detail from the metal originals most of them are based on, and for the price they make for nice, easy, cheap conversions.   I can second that Bones are ridiculously convertible. And Reaper does sell convenient bits packs for things like weapons, shields, musical instruments, wings, steampunk accessories, etc.
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Nov 30, 2013 03:45
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I'm participating in the Games forum's annual Steam holiday contest thread, and today's challenge is to make a video-game-themed stocking stuffer. Since I've been OD'ing on Final Fantasy lately, I thought it'd be a great opportunity to break out the Sculpey and make the most adorably ugly thing in the game: a goobbue. I didn't wake up this morning thinking I'd end the day sculpting moobs and 55-year-old man-rear end on a figure, but here we are.   I'll spend tomorrow painting this thing. There's a day and a half left on this challenge if anyone wants to join us! 
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Dec 7, 2013 11:36
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Hellbeard posted:Cool sculpt! Looks dope. Thanks! Now is probably a good time to add that I also think your bat sculpt is pretty sweet. I finished painting the goobbue a few days ago, because I enjoy playing with basing flock far more than completing my Oath, apparently.   
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Dec 13, 2013 01:25
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thiswayliesmadness posted:When you first mentioned the project, I was half-hoping you'd be doing a galka since I loved playing one in XI. Now just add some saplings and various crystals about him so I can have the complete flashback experience! I first tried cutting up little bits of metal or toothpick tips, but they looked uneven and weren't sticking particularly well in the clay. I ended up having to murder a parchment paper box for its serrated edge. Hellbeard posted:Thank you. I think the painting needs some more gradation. Maybe dust some pigments around there. It looks cool with the flock. Keep going a little and I think it'll be loving awesome. Do you have pigment recommendations? I don't think I own any, actually.
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Dec 13, 2013 18:28
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It sounds like I should hit up some tutorials to get a better feel of how pigments should be used, then run from there. Thanks for the input!
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Dec 13, 2013 20:36
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2013 Painting Recap I gave away most of my unpainted minis several years back, after realizing that we weren't hosting tabletop games any longer, and it'd take decades to get through them all with my poor painting rate. So when I got drawn back into buying new minis via Kickstarter, the promise I made to myself was that my next focus area for improvement in painting was speeding up my throughput. I think I may have succeeded.                  The plus side is that I'm finding that even when I get sets of minis that start to get torturous or boring to paint (like those Little Urban Achievers ones), I've been tending towards just calling them 'done' and moving on, rather than getting frustrated and quitting painting for a year.
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Dec 14, 2013 23:02
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Spending an Amazon Christmas card now means that I have a Bones hydra and a pack of small magnets on order.  I think someone in here mentioned that idea at some point, so thanks for that!
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Dec 31, 2013 04:38
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Grey Hunter posted:There are times in this hobby you will feel proud of your accomplishments, times when you feel you have bettered yourself and improved your skills, then there are the times when things just don't work as you had planned, the paint job looks smeared or the conversion looks just plain silly. I'm hoping the feather fronds fall off my fingers overnight, myself.
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Jan 1, 2014 09:44
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Bad Munki posted:Honestly, because of the gritty texture these things have, I'm wondering if just putting down a base coat would work as well as priming. I feel like any paint that goes on there is going to bond pretty well with the plastery surface, primer or no. I've not had problems with paint sticking directly to Excalibur plaster. Granted, this was brushed-on craft paint, but still. A base coat would probably work just fine for you.
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Jan 2, 2014 23:29
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Achmed Jones posted:I'd like to do a diorama that features people around a campfire. Reaper has this model, any ideas for the others? I'm fine with both sitting around a campfire and laying in sleeping bags/on bedrolls, but I can't find anything useful. Thanks! I don't know about sitting figures, but you could probably cover these guys in a bedroll: http://stonehavenminiatures.webstorepowered.com/Stonehaven-Miniatures-Dwarf-Unconscious-Miniature/dp/B00AKNDQEY http://stonehavenminiatures.webstorepowered.com/Stonehaven-Miniatures-Gnome-Unconscous-Miniature/dp/B00GJX5S2W
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Jan 24, 2014 05:55
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Achmed Jones posted:Awesome, thanks! Sure! I also found this Hirst Arts forum thread just now, looks like someone else had a similar question and got some replies.
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Jan 24, 2014 19:59
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Crain posted:I'm having some trouble with the accessory molds with some of the more complicated barrels and crates (the ones that are hollow) but the rest are pretty good. Really need to either make or get a wall mold though. I've been using a plastic syringe to dispense my plaster, and it seems to help a lot with the hollow pieces on that mold. You still get occasional bubbles, but nowhere near as many as I did when I was just pouring from a cup.
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Feb 5, 2014 19:28
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Anyone have experience with staining wood in here? I finished assembling a portion of my display board oath for next month, and I was a bit liberal with the wood glue in some places. I'm trying to get a gauge for how thorough I need to be when I go to sand it off.
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Feb 24, 2014 23:42
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Not a viking posted:Holy poo poo I hate metal miniatures. Why would you design the cast that way?  It almost looks like it'd be worth it to cut/dremel out the pole on both pieces and replace with with a single replacement length of brass or something.
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Mar 11, 2014 23:04
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Signal posted:She should be multiple parts, you could probably drill up through her lower body, and then out through her torso. I did this with a Reaper Bones dragon, and that's basically how I did it. I cut up the neck, drilled a pathway down to the body, then reassembled it with the wires attached. For just LEDs, you can find significantly thinner wire than the hilariously thick stuff I had lying around, as well.
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Mar 18, 2014 22:17
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The Stonehaven Kickstarter gnomes are tiny and awesome.     But man, is there no room for error at that scale.
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Mar 22, 2014 19:59
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 Hey boys~.   And the reference: 
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Mar 26, 2014 08:03
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Under 15 posted:What would you guys recommend for painting rock, like on bases? I have no idea what I'm doing, but I have a large rock that an orc is standing on and I don't want it to look so booooring. My somewhat lazy method of painting it mid-gray, washing it with black, and drybrushing on lighter gray usually works decently on anything with texture. For fancier stone, these guides are more helpful: http://abarothsworld.com/Tricks/painting%20tutorials.htm
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Apr 16, 2014 01:03
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Fureil posted:So I somehow need to acquire a bass guitar, mic stand with a mic, and an amp that would be of the appropriate scale for a 40k mini. Any ideas, or is my best bet going to be green stuff and foamcore? I need this for reasons that I promise to post pictures of once its completed. You can at a minimum get the guitar and microphone bits from here.
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Apr 26, 2014 08:11
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Esser-Z posted:Any suggestions on where to pick up LEDs (I'm American)? I have a couple Reaper Bones translucent minis I'd like to do lighted bases for to make 'em glow. You could do places like Mouser or Digikey, but for small quantities of things I tend to opt towards Sparkfun. Their site's pretty friendly. Fry's Electronics has a components aisle (if you live near one), and Radio Shack may still stock stuff like this at their markups. Edit: Adafruit's not bad for other electronics fun stuff, too.
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May 1, 2014 20:41
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Esser-Z posted:Thanks a ton! I'll look into those sites. Not sure when I'll get on this particular project, though, heh. Kinda intimidated by it. No worries! Just buy more LEDs than you need - they're cheap, and you'll probably blow one or two while playing with them. If you can get a cheap resistor pack at the same time (containing values in the 10-1000ohm range), that'll also help you when you go to wire it. Thankfully LEDs are pretty forgiving, but if you have more questions feel free to ask when you get to it.
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May 1, 2014 21:34
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Esser-Z posted:Well, I've never done electronics like this at all before, so if you have any good tutorials handy, I'd really appreciate it! I wrote some  about sticking a LED into Wyrmgear in the Reaper thread, including the parts I chose and why. The goons in the Learning Electronics megathread are also pretty friendly.Weirdo posted:Sorry to deviate from the compressor talk, just asking for any tips to finish this mini. Ooh, pretty. I'ma look through my figures for a lady to orc up now.
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May 2, 2014 05:04
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It's nice to see a clean, natural scheme on him. It reminds me a little bit of an iguana or a bearded lizard. I have one, but he's.... Well, I had just gotten done reading a tutorial encouraging people to experiment with odd color schemes. He's a little pastel. 
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Jun 10, 2014 02:39
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I like him. Very Nicholson-esque.
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Jun 11, 2014 17:57
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