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ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I'm starting to paint my Wood Elves today, and I'm going for an Autumn theme. One of the ideas I have pinging around in my little brain is wanting to base them with little fallen leaves, but I can't think of a way to make them / place to buy them.

Ideas I have had:
- Cutting tiny pieces of paper - seems like a bad idea because they'll be too flimsy to paint.
- Shaving little bits off sprue chunks - my most likely, but it's going to take FOREVER and they won't come out the right shape really.

Any suggestions? Or any tips of places that sell leaf-shaped modelling flock (that are in the UK, or ship internationally.)

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ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Sole.Sushi posted:



And this big guy has been, so far, my largest and most thought-out conversion. To me, the original stance was a bit, well, goofy. So, with a bit of inspiration from the 40k daemons codex for the pose, as well as having watched the Dark Crystal recently, I got this guy out of it. It's my first major use of green stuff to rebuild a model, but I think it came out nice. I'm proud of it overall.

I love this. Trial by Stone!

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Here is my new desk:


I want to use it for painting as well as for working, but the light in my room is not very good. I'm looking for some clip-on lamps to attach to the side struts (probably one on each side, hopefully flexible ones.)

I'm worried about the possibility of conventional lamps getting too hot and a) making the desk uncomfortable to work at or b) scorch the wood or c) cause paint to dry too fast while painting. Is this a reasonable concern in a space this small?

Along the same lines, I see a lot of LED lights advertised which obviously do not get anywhere near as hot, but I had a look at one in a store and even though it had a lot of individual LEDs (15 or so) the light seemed very feeble. Has anyone had experience with LED lights, or even clip-on flexible LED lights for painting?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Anyone got any suggestions for something that I could use as a Blood Bowl ball? Aside from the actual plastic balls - my ones are somewhere in my tub of old miniatures 400 miles away...

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Pagan posted:

I've been working on this guy, and I'm pretty happy with how he looks, but a lot of people have mentioned the blinders as being too nurgly. Fair enough.

I'm still on the fence about it, and since it's too rainy to prime, I've got time to decide. I'd like to have a little more in depth discussion here, so as not to clutter up the GBS thread with my indecisiveness.

Reasons to keep it like it is :

  • I think with the proper paint, I can make the eyes look like simple metal blinders, like you'd see on almost any horse.
  • I'm not experienced, at all, with greenstuff, so sculpting anything more complex than a smooth flat surface might be a challenge.

Reasons to change it :
  • The leprous spore buboe theme is prevalent in nurgle
  • Having a horse that looks mean, rough, and gritty is great, but a chaos steed is not okay for a warrior priest
  • The more I change it, the more unique my model becomes, which is always a good thing.

So, I'd like to see some ideas or pix of what else I could do without surpassing my meager greenstuff skills.

I really like it as it is. Just treat it as part of the armour and it will look totally fine. Even when used as a chaos model its not necessarily intended to be some hideous extrusion, just some unusual and archaic horse armour.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I've kitbashed an Orc blood bowl team out of 40k Nobz and Boyz and a couple of Black Orc pieces, and they look pretty sweet... except for where I've disarmed them (by cutting the weapons away). I've tried to do it as smoothly as possible but it still looks pretty scrappy and horrid. I suspect there isn't really a solution other than drilling a bit away and trying to resculpt the hand shapes, which I don't think I'm willing or able to do (I have no experience at all with green stuff). What do you suggest?

v
Oh, I don't have my camera with me so I'll ask again later!

ineptmule fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Oct 29, 2009

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Any tips on shading and highlighting Hawk Turquoise and Bad Moon Yellow? They seem to be fairly unique colours with no obvious lighter or darker cousins, and I'm not sure which routes to go down trying to mix them. This is where I suck at painting. I'm alright at the applying paint bit, but knowing which colours to mix and colour scheme ideas in general I suck at.

Either way I'll have a couple of test models to post soonish

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Hey paintvagrant, you mentioned 'Rust Sauce' a while back, but I can't remember if it was in this or the GBS thread (or the old GBS thread.) I Ctrl-F'd 'rust sauce' through this thread but couldn't find it... What is the recipe again?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Fyrbrand posted:

Here's his paint recipe, which I guess is pretty much the same thing. I use it to great effect on my orks.

quote:

boltgun metal
-badab wash
-water down foundation orange paint, mix w/medium if you have any, apply it to the recesses
-drybrush boltgun
-devlan mud everything
-drybrush mithril
-thin edge highlights w/mithril

The orange paint is where you get your rust, so depending on what you're doing feel free to apply it all over and in multiple coats if necessary. Also it will look like crap until the devlan mud goes on, so don't freak out.

Brilliant, thanks!

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

PV, do you have any wisdom for doing Bronze & Brass effects in a similar way to your awesome Gold effects?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

PaintVagrant posted:

like dis?





Yeah, that looks great!

I'm just starting to paint my Dwarfs from Battle for Skull Pass and I don't really want the headache of using GW Golds/Dwarf Bronze/Beaten Brass etc.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

crime fighting hog posted:

Sepia really is the best wash for metal qtiyd

Quoting pre-emptively as I've not tried it yet

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Angryboot posted:

it didn't turn out too badly.

Angryboot posted:

it didn't turn out too badly.

If I could turn out models that good I would be over the moon.

I've been painting for yeeeears.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

What do you chaps think of doing this to represent Wild Riders ?
(Picture not mine)


I think it looks pretty cool, and I was trying to think of a way to make centaur-like WR. Also it has the bonus of being a lot cheaper than buying the Metals.

The Wild Rider models are really awesome but SO expensive

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I remember years ago doing Black Bases when it was still standard to do Goblin Green.

Now that it's 'in' I'm going to have to find something else

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Aranan posted:

Tentacle Pink bases, clearly.

Considering how absurdly protective the 'hams at my local GW are over their OOP RARE TENTACLE PINK they'd probably murder me for my two pots if they had any inkling I had them.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

What happened to this thread? It disappeared from my bookmarks and I had to go back to the tale of goon gamers thread to find the link again.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Iron Squid posted:

So I got a better primer for my Orks and it worked a lot better.

Started painting them today with Karnifax Green, I believe. I stopped soon after starting because I wasn't sure how I was going to paint the face. Should I just paint the entire face, including teeth, lips and mouth with the green paint, then go over it later with a color? Or something else?

I don't know about how a painting genius would do it but I certainly do this.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Aargh gently caress. I'm trying to paint the skin on my Oathed Elves and on my Escher gangers and I'm experimenting with different degrees of thinning (I know, like milk... what the gently caress is the consistency of milk ) and basically don't seem to be able to avoid either a really streaky finish or a really clumpy texture... What am I doing wrong?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

GoodBee posted:

mixing medium

Hmmm... What is mixing medium?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

PaintVagrant posted:

Thinning is more about feel than ratios...thin the paint, apply it...if it doesnt cover well, add a touch more paint to the mix, etc.

The more you paint the better you will get at controlling it.

Foundations tend to need more water than other paints, because they are thick as hell and have more pigment than most paints do. Using them out of the pot is a no-no.

GW washes dont have to be thinned, but depending on how dark a wash you are using, and how light a basecolor, you might want to. I wouldnt, at least for now, til you get the hang of using em

PV your advice is often what keeps me from eating my brushes and models and giving this whole foul jamboree up.





Just thought you should know.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

PierreTheMime posted:

please the piece of paperclip in the foot-hole

That sounds very naughty.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Hey clever modelling folk

I'm just finishing up my first four ever Blood Angels, what colours do you think I should go for with the basing?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I think that looks pretty awesome, Bluedini.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I just got some Forge World bits and some of them are quite bent, I remember a while ago someone talking about bending resin back into shape but can't remember how to do it. Any suggestions?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I'm painting up Blood Angels pretty much in codex colours, using the painting guide that GW put up for the Space Hulk terminators here.

However I've now got around to painting my Honour Guard and I hate painting gold, so I was thinking about going with silver armour and a red helmet using the above scheme.

I don't have any spare minis lying around to do this to, and definitely don't want to do it to my fancy-pants Honour Guard and regret it, so... does anyone have any opinion on how this would look?

EDIT: FWIW my girlfriend said she thought they'd look like christmas decorations

ineptmule fucked around with this message at 11:41 on Jan 23, 2011

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Welp, despite the hundreds of tonnes of free sand just 15 minutes from my house, the weather and the junkies resident at the beach drove me into Hobbycraft where I bought my first ever supply of basing material!

I'm having fun making the bases but one thing that concerns me is how to prevent the stuff from coming off both as I paint it and during everyday wear and tear of tabletop minis. The sand/gravel has been stuck down using watered-down PVA glue which seems like it might not be the most secure medium. Is there a way that I can ensure that the gravel will stay on the bases?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Is that 12 hours before priming or after?

I only mixed in about 10-20% water, is that too much?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Well seeing as I have to be patient before priming, here's a rad WIP of one of my Gorkamorka bikes

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

Are your gorkamorka orks based around a kind of Amazonian bare-breasted headless horseman theme? Like a Lady Godiva meets the Ichabod Crane of Bladerunner?

God drat it, I wish

No the head is absent because I'm ridiculously anal. In order to facilitate switching of equipment etc. for my Gorkamorka mob, I've painted all the heads and have little pins that I can use to switch them around between bodies...

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I've just given my Blood Bowl team a bath in Dettol and a scrub, and they are basically clean now. There's just a few tiny bits of residue in the crevices etc. and I tried picking them out with a toothpick but they are being stubborn. Is this going to be ok when I prime and paint them again, or do I need to put them back in the Dettol and be a bit more determined with the toothpick?

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

The Empire Flagellants box has some books in it, I have a few spare if you want me to send you one.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

That looks seriously awesome. I'm not totally sold on the idea of the detonator but that's mainly because most 40k things like that which I have seen look kind of goofy and over-sized. If you keep it neat then it will be fine I'm sure.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

That is amazing, great stuff.


I have a paint choice question: how would people suggest to shade (or highlight) Dheneb stone? I'm finding it tricky to find a good colour to match it.

I'm reluctant to mix because I need to do quite a lot and I only have one pot left due to it not being available anymore, and I find mixing to be inherently very wasteful.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

IrvingWashington posted:

Holy poo poo, everyone is so good. I'm loving the casting experiments.

I figure I'm going to follow this Bad Moons speed-painting tutorial and see if I can get things to come out similar with my terrible paints. I reckon this would be a good technique to get my kid into painting, then the orks can be his (he already modifies everything, so I think it would suit him anyway).

Got some Pledge with Future Shine via Amazon because I don't think my cheapo stuff was cutting it. I've seen recipes for a water/fs pre-mix using 5:1 up to 10:1 - what ratios do you folks use?

jigokuman posted:

I have a set of Black Reach orks that I used most of that guide to paint and they turned out great (to the extent that they are done). It's pretty foolproof.

I used this method for my Blood Bowl Orks, and it's great. I added some extra bits because I was only doing around 15 models, but the core of the technique is solid. (Although I still need to finish them...)

I can post a couple of pics if you're interested.

ineptmule fucked around with this message at 12:58 on May 21, 2012

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Danger - Octopus! posted:

Cool, thanks. I've got a horribly painted Leman Russ that I bought back when they cost £14 and don't want to melt it!

One thing that you might not have thought of: because the tank is hollow and (probably) not watertight you're likely to get some of the liquid inside it. I'd leave it for a good long time for the stuff to evaporate/seep out so that it doesn't ruin your future paintjob.

I had it happen once with Ork Nobz, who have hollow torsos. I think it'll probably be worse for a tank.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

IrvingWashington posted:

Hell yes post your BB mans. Also learning to use future shine is hard/different, but I will get there.

Ok, here goes then! Apologies for the glare, particularly on the bases. I still haven't figured out how to light minis for photography yet.


First up, a Black Orc. This is the model that is nearest completion, and has most of the details that I feel 'make' the overall scheme, like the scratches and dents in the armour, highlighting on the metal etc. I think that the flat browny-yellow is a great tone but it gets a bit dull without something to add variance. I also have a real issue against painting 'metal' ie. painted armour plates, and 'cloth' the same colour, which the speed painting tutorial does. I planned for my team's colours to be blue and yellow anyway so just went with blue for their clothes and yellow for their armour.


Next, a blitzer. This is one of the ones where I tried to find a different blue tone to use for armour. I think it was just mordian blue over the top. I've tried to use the wash to make it look dented and greasy.


A lineman, only about 40% done. You start to see what I feel is a weakness of the scheme here in that the simple green wash on yellow works great for the muscles of the arms, but I feel it leaves the faces rather lacking in detail. Obviously there is everything to pick out still but the way I usually paint Orcs (which takes about five times as long) is much more thorough.


A thrower. This really highlights my beef with the way the faces come out. He doesn't look great to my eyes but he's barely even been started so it will improve.


Finally, my troll. He's not painted using the scheme so I'm just including him for completeness and to show him off because I'm pretty proud of him. I tried to match the colour of his loincloth (sorta) to the yellow of the team's armour and golden yellow washed with gryphonne sepia, then highlighted with golden yellow again was the tone I chose for that.

All in all I think the scheme is really good, and it's a great way to speed up some of the basic steps. However you have to be pretty neat still because the way that the washing over spray primer works means that if you make a mistake, you often can't correct it in a way that blends in - particularly on the skin or on any area that you want to remain yellow. In fact, one of the reasons why I've painted so many chips etc. onto the armour is because I got green wash on those edges when doing the skin - fortunately it's usually been in areas that would probably see a lot of wear like where the sides of a helmet would scrape against the shoulder pads.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

I'd try mixing in a dark brown with a brighter red maybe. Scorched brown might be too dark, Terracotta could be about right.

Or possibly Dark Flesh, I find that's great for darkening reds and oranges.

To be honest I don't like scab red anyway. I was using it last week and it wasn't right at all, so I washed it with Leviathan Blue and voila - I have a really gorgeous dark grape colour.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

IrvingWashington

While I realise this is the modelling thread and you are about to embark on learning a new sculpting skill, I have a spare thunder hammer/storm shield set of terminator arms that is yours if you cover the postage.

PM me or email unhappy dot panda at gmail dot com.

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ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

god drat, I am going to have to buy a few of those.

I'm not going to hang them from my ceiling having a dogfight, oh no.

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