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I'm starting to paint my Wood Elves today, and I'm going for an Autumn theme. One of the ideas I have pinging around in my little brain is wanting to base them with little fallen leaves, but I can't think of a way to make them / place to buy them. Ideas I have had: - Cutting tiny pieces of paper - seems like a bad idea because they'll be too flimsy to paint. - Shaving little bits off sprue chunks - my most likely, but it's going to take FOREVER and they won't come out the right shape really. Any suggestions? Or any tips of places that sell leaf-shaped modelling flock (that are in the UK, or ship internationally.)
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Oct 5, 2009 12:44
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Sole.Sushi posted:
I love this. Trial by Stone!
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Oct 6, 2009 11:35
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Here is my new desk: I want to use it for painting as well as for working, but the light in my room is not very good. I'm looking for some clip-on lamps to attach to the side struts (probably one on each side, hopefully flexible ones.) I'm worried about the possibility of conventional lamps getting too hot and a) making the desk uncomfortable to work at or b) scorch the wood or c) cause paint to dry too fast while painting. Is this a reasonable concern in a space this small? Along the same lines, I see a lot of LED lights advertised which obviously do not get anywhere near as hot, but I had a look at one in a store and even though it had a lot of individual LEDs (15 or so) the light seemed very feeble. Has anyone had experience with LED lights, or even clip-on flexible LED lights for painting?
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Oct 20, 2009 13:50
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Anyone got any suggestions for something that I could use as a Blood Bowl ball? Aside from the actual plastic balls - my ones are somewhere in my tub of old miniatures 400 miles away...
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Oct 27, 2009 22:47
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Pagan posted:I've been working on this guy, and I'm pretty happy with how he looks, but a lot of people have mentioned the blinders as being too nurgly. Fair enough. I really like it as it is. Just treat it as part of the armour and it will look totally fine. Even when used as a chaos model its not necessarily intended to be some hideous extrusion, just some unusual and archaic horse armour.
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Oct 28, 2009 23:56
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I've kitbashed an Orc blood bowl team out of 40k Nobz and Boyz and a couple of Black Orc pieces, and they look pretty sweet... except for where I've disarmed them (by cutting the weapons away). I've tried to do it as smoothly as possible but it still looks pretty scrappy and horrid. I suspect there isn't really a solution other than drilling a bit away and trying to resculpt the hand shapes, which I don't think I'm willing or able to do (I have no experience at all with green stuff). What do you suggest? v Oh, I don't have my camera with me so I'll ask again later! 
Squibsy fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Oct 29, 2009 18:50
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Any tips on shading and highlighting Hawk Turquoise and Bad Moon Yellow? They seem to be fairly unique colours with no obvious lighter or darker cousins, and I'm not sure which routes to go down trying to mix them. This is where I suck at painting. I'm alright at the applying paint bit, but knowing which colours to mix and colour scheme ideas in general I suck at. Either way I'll have a couple of test models to post soonish
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Nov 3, 2009 00:16
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Hey paintvagrant, you mentioned 'Rust Sauce' a while back, but I can't remember if it was in this or the GBS thread (or the old GBS thread.) I Ctrl-F'd 'rust sauce' through this thread but couldn't find it... What is the recipe again?
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Nov 24, 2009 13:51
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Fyrbrand posted:Here's his paint recipe, which I guess is pretty much the same thing. I use it to great effect on my orks. Brilliant, thanks!
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Nov 24, 2009 16:59
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PV, do you have any wisdom for doing Bronze & Brass effects in a similar way to your awesome Gold effects?
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Nov 25, 2009 18:47
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PaintVagrant posted:like dis? Yeah, that looks great! I'm just starting to paint my Dwarfs from Battle for Skull Pass and I don't really want the headache of using GW Golds/Dwarf Bronze/Beaten Brass etc.
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Nov 26, 2009 00:19
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crime fighting hog posted:Sepia really is the best wash for metal qtiyd Quoting pre-emptively as I've not tried it yet
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Nov 27, 2009 00:31
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Angryboot posted:it didn't turn out too badly. Angryboot posted:it didn't turn out too badly. If I could turn out models that good I would be over the moon. I've been painting for yeeeears.
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Nov 30, 2009 12:58
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What do you chaps think of doing this to represent Wild Riders ? (Picture not mine)  I think it looks pretty cool, and I was trying to think of a way to make centaur-like WR. Also it has the bonus of being a lot cheaper than buying the Metals. The Wild Rider models are really awesome but SO expensive 
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Dec 11, 2009 14:02
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I remember years ago doing Black Bases when it was still standard to do Goblin Green. Now that it's 'in' I'm going to have to find something else 
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Dec 12, 2009 14:59
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Aranan posted:Tentacle Pink bases, clearly. Considering how absurdly protective the 'hams at my local GW are over their OOP RARE TENTACLE PINK they'd probably murder me for my two pots if they had any inkling I had them.
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Dec 12, 2009 18:46
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What happened to this thread? It disappeared from my bookmarks and I had to go back to the tale of goon gamers thread to find the link again.
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Dec 13, 2009 17:15
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Iron Squid posted:So I got a better primer for my Orks and it worked a lot better. I don't know about how a painting genius would do it but I certainly do this.
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Dec 16, 2009 10:08
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Aargh gently caress. I'm trying to paint the skin on my Oathed Elves and on my Escher gangers and I'm experimenting with different degrees of thinning (I know, like milk... what the gently caress is the consistency of milk  ) and basically don't seem to be able to avoid either a really streaky finish or a really clumpy texture... What am I doing wrong?
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Feb 19, 2010 01:53
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GoodBee posted:mixing medium Hmmm... What is mixing medium?
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Feb 19, 2010 22:37
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PaintVagrant posted:Thinning is more about feel than ratios...thin the paint, apply it...if it doesnt cover well, add a touch more paint to the mix, etc. PV your advice is often what keeps me from eating my brushes and models and giving this whole foul jamboree up. Just thought you should know.
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Feb 20, 2010 01:13
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PierreTheMime posted:please the piece of paperclip in the foot-hole That sounds very naughty.
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Feb 25, 2010 02:06
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Hey clever modelling folk I'm just finishing up my first four ever Blood Angels, what colours do you think I should go for with the basing?
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Mar 13, 2010 20:32
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I think that looks pretty awesome, Bluedini.
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Mar 26, 2010 02:44
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I just got some Forge World bits and some of them are quite bent, I remember a while ago someone talking about bending resin back into shape but can't remember how to do it. Any suggestions?
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Dec 7, 2010 15:33
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I'm painting up Blood Angels pretty much in codex colours, using the painting guide that GW put up for the Space Hulk terminators here. However I've now got around to painting my Honour Guard and I hate painting gold, so I was thinking about going with silver armour and a red helmet using the above scheme. I don't have any spare minis lying around to do this to, and definitely don't want to do it to my fancy-pants Honour Guard and regret it, so... does anyone have any opinion on how this would look? EDIT: FWIW my girlfriend said she thought they'd look like christmas decorations 
Squibsy fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 12:37
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Welp, despite the hundreds of tonnes of free sand just 15 minutes from my house, the weather and the junkies resident at the beach drove me into Hobbycraft where I bought my first ever supply of basing material! I'm having fun making the bases but one thing that concerns me is how to prevent the stuff from coming off both as I paint it and during everyday wear and tear of tabletop minis. The sand/gravel has been stuck down using watered-down PVA glue which seems like it might not be the most secure medium. Is there a way that I can ensure that the gravel will stay on the bases?
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Feb 11, 2011 18:43
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Is that 12 hours before priming or after? I only mixed in about 10-20% water, is that too much?
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Feb 11, 2011 19:07
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Well seeing as I have to be patient before priming, here's a rad WIP of one of my Gorkamorka bikes  
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Feb 11, 2011 19:37
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Are your gorkamorka orks based around a kind of Amazonian bare-breasted headless horseman theme? Like a Lady Godiva meets the Ichabod Crane of Bladerunner? God drat it, I wish  No the head is absent because I'm ridiculously anal. In order to facilitate switching of equipment etc. for my Gorkamorka mob, I've painted all the heads and have little pins that I can use to switch them around between bodies...
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Feb 11, 2011 19:46
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I've just given my Blood Bowl team a bath in Dettol and a scrub, and they are basically clean now. There's just a few tiny bits of residue in the crevices etc. and I tried picking them out with a toothpick but they are being stubborn. Is this going to be ok when I prime and paint them again, or do I need to put them back in the Dettol and be a bit more determined with the toothpick?
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Sep 28, 2011 02:17
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The Empire Flagellants box has some books in it, I have a few spare if you want me to send you one.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:17
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That looks seriously awesome. I'm not totally sold on the idea of the detonator but that's mainly because most 40k things like that which I have seen look kind of goofy and over-sized. If you keep it neat then it will be fine I'm sure.
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Apr 1, 2012 13:19
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That is amazing, great stuff. I have a paint choice question: how would people suggest to shade (or highlight) Dheneb stone? I'm finding it tricky to find a good colour to match it. I'm reluctant to mix because I need to do quite a lot and I only have one pot left due to it not being available anymore, and I find mixing to be inherently very wasteful.
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May 18, 2012 11:28
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IrvingWashington posted:Holy poo poo, everyone is so good. I'm loving the casting experiments. jigokuman posted:I have a set of Black Reach orks that I used most of that guide to paint and they turned out great (to the extent that they are done). It's pretty foolproof. I used this method for my Blood Bowl Orks, and it's great. I added some extra bits because I was only doing around 15 models, but the core of the technique is solid. (Although I still need to finish them...) I can post a couple of pics if you're interested. Squibsy fucked around with this message at 13:58 on May 21, 2012 |
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May 21, 2012 12:44
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Cool, thanks. I've got a horribly painted Leman Russ that I bought back when they cost £14 and don't want to melt it! One thing that you might not have thought of: because the tank is hollow and (probably) not watertight you're likely to get some of the liquid inside it. I'd leave it for a good long time for the stuff to evaporate/seep out so that it doesn't ruin your future paintjob. I had it happen once with Ork Nobz, who have hollow torsos. I think it'll probably be worse for a tank.
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May 22, 2012 10:22
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IrvingWashington posted:Hell yes post your BB mans. Also learning to use future shine is hard/different, but I will get there. Ok, here goes then! Apologies for the glare, particularly on the bases. I still haven't figured out how to light minis for photography yet.  First up, a Black Orc. This is the model that is nearest completion, and has most of the details that I feel 'make' the overall scheme, like the scratches and dents in the armour, highlighting on the metal etc. I think that the flat browny-yellow is a great tone but it gets a bit dull without something to add variance. I also have a real issue against painting 'metal' ie. painted armour plates, and 'cloth' the same colour, which the speed painting tutorial does. I planned for my team's colours to be blue and yellow anyway so just went with blue for their clothes and yellow for their armour.  Next, a blitzer. This is one of the ones where I tried to find a different blue tone to use for armour. I think it was just mordian blue over the top. I've tried to use the wash to make it look dented and greasy.  A lineman, only about 40% done. You start to see what I feel is a weakness of the scheme here in that the simple green wash on yellow works great for the muscles of the arms, but I feel it leaves the faces rather lacking in detail. Obviously there is everything to pick out still but the way I usually paint Orcs (which takes about five times as long) is much more thorough.  A thrower. This really highlights my beef with the way the faces come out. He doesn't look great to my eyes but he's barely even been started so it will improve.   Finally, my troll. He's not painted using the scheme so I'm just including him for completeness and to show him off because I'm pretty proud of him. I tried to match the colour of his loincloth (sorta) to the yellow of the team's armour and golden yellow washed with gryphonne sepia, then highlighted with golden yellow again was the tone I chose for that. All in all I think the scheme is really good, and it's a great way to speed up some of the basic steps. However you have to be pretty neat still because the way that the washing over spray primer works means that if you make a mistake, you often can't correct it in a way that blends in - particularly on the skin or on any area that you want to remain yellow. In fact, one of the reasons why I've painted so many chips etc. onto the armour is because I got green wash on those edges when doing the skin - fortunately it's usually been in areas that would probably see a lot of wear like where the sides of a helmet would scrape against the shoulder pads.
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May 23, 2012 00:03
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I'd try mixing in a dark brown with a brighter red maybe. Scorched brown might be too dark, Terracotta could be about right. Or possibly Dark Flesh, I find that's great for darkening reds and oranges. To be honest I don't like scab red anyway. I was using it last week and it wasn't right at all, so I washed it with Leviathan Blue and voila - I have a really gorgeous dark grape colour.
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May 23, 2012 14:56
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 IrvingWashingtonWhile I realise this is the modelling thread and you are about to embark on learning a new sculpting skill, I have a spare thunder hammer/storm shield set of terminator arms that is yours if you cover the postage. PM me or email unhappy dot panda at gmail dot com.
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May 26, 2012 20:33
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god drat, I am going to have to buy a few of those. I'm not going to hang them from my ceiling having a dogfight, oh no.
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May 29, 2012 18:25
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