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Fix posted:I'm stymied. I actually think the blue would be good, but I can understand if you're not keen on it. Given the options, I think that doing grey with white-and-blue highlights and trim would be the way to go. White would actually be really awesome, get PV to tell you how he did the white on his Howling Griffon tanks (I think). I don't think you should use the 'traditional' Inquisitor colors - this might make sense for Storm Troopers or something, but Sisters have their own special vehicles that they own and maintain, and they should be matched to the Order.
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Feb 14, 2010 22:43
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Reaper has a huge range of stuff, and while some of it can be pretty dumpy a lot of it is actually quite nice. Their casting quality is good and their prices are pretty decent. They are also great for weird random one-off pieces. Like 'Man being eaten by swarm of beetles' and 'seriously overloaded peasant'.
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Feb 17, 2010 23:09
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Respect to anyone doing a halved or quartered pattern, it's very frustrating to do. On the other hand it looks amazing when done well. I think PV had some sweet squads like that.
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Feb 18, 2010 00:23
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Only think you should be careful about with whacky bases is that they don't prevent models moving together. It's one of the reasons people don't go crazy in fantasy, because all that poo poo has to rank up at the end of the day. I sometimes wonder if these huge rock bases gently caress with people trying to get into combat or out of a vehicle.
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Feb 19, 2010 02:10
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Indolent Bastard posted:The 'main' warhammer thread is being too busy having a which chaos god hates who and why 90210/the hills type discussion, so I'll drag this here. Sorry, it was just chatter.  I think that the base has potential, but it obviously needs work - especially on those wide, curved panels, which isn't very orky at all. When you first posted it I thought it was going to be some sort of Tau supermech, which might give you some idea of how the current look is 'off'. I think it can work depending on what you do with it, though. Definitely ork up the front, mount some guns or additional arms below the current pair (or maybe one below, one above, and stick some sort of bosspole on it. I'm not a huge fan of the feet, although its hard to see what you're working with from the current angle.
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Feb 19, 2010 22:28
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I haven't even gotten that far. This was just me shoving gs into five slottabases for some Witch Elves. That poo poo stuck to me, stuck to the tool, but refused to stick to the base or the model.
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Feb 25, 2010 16:20
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Plastruct seems to have pretty much everything I can imagine needing. Sometimes I want to build stuff just for an excuse to order crazy construction pieces from them.
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Feb 25, 2010 17:27
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Everything I know about cars I learned from GW.
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Mar 1, 2010 18:49
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Miles O'Brian posted:I'm piecing together a Witch Hunters army with an Arbite theme and I need something short but super oppressive to write on the dozer blade of my Repressor. You know like when you walk past a church and they have some sort of slogan implying that you are a lesser being for not believing in God? That x 1000. 'PREPARE TO BE JUDGED' or 'THIS END TOWARD SINNERS' or just 'REPENT'
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Mar 2, 2010 15:51
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ANAmal.net posted:PaintVagrant your basing kits own almost as much as my warham photo skills blow How are you taking your pictures? That picture isn't really out of focus as such, you just have a very narrow depth of field so that only a small slice of it is actually in the focal range. I'm guessing that you're using a low f-stop on your camera or possibly a the Flower/Close up mode? That helps with getting enough light in but it makes it really hard to get the whole miniature in focus. The best way to get a picture is really to use a tripod. If you have enough control over your camera, set it to a high f-stop to increase your depth of field. This will also push the shutter speed way down, which is why you need to mount it on a tripod so that you can use as long an exposure as you need. If you don't have actual f-stop control, maybe you can set it to the 'Mountain/Landscape', which should push for a high stop and better depth of field. You may need to push the camera to overexpose a bit, too, judging by the shadows. Sometimes a camera will meter based on the white background and underexpose the actual model - if you can adjust the focus/meter framing to work from the model that would help, too. Disclaimer: I don't actually do any of the stuff above because my painting is bad and good pictures make me hate my work, but technically it should help.
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Mar 4, 2010 16:34
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Photography derail!  ANAmal.net posted:That one was at f/6.3, 200mm, I think ISO400, with image stabilization on, hand-held, from the other side of the room. quote:I went with the long lens as an experiment because none of the glass I have can get close enough to fill the frame with an inch-high model without being well inside the minimum focusing distance of the lens. I actually think it sort of worked in that regard, though there are still other problems. quote:Part of the reason my situation is slightly embarrassing is because I actually have a decent SLR and I'm shooting in full manual. I promise I'm not this bad at shooting larger objects, but god help me I cannot take pictures of these tiny loving things to save my life. I can't provide any help on the diffuser, I have the SB400 flash but I don't have a diffuser and get minimal use out of it. The biggest difference is really just going to be in bothering to get your setup right with the lightbox, tripod, etc. Like I said, this is something that I never actually do because its a pain in the rear end, but its probably the easiest fix. If you have other stuff painted, getting set up and taking a whole bunch of pictures makes it seem like less of a hassle/waste of time. Edit: PV is right, equipment can only do so much to compensate for lovely conditions. If your lighting is just bad it can help, but getting good lighting in will make it much easier to sort out the DoF problems as well.
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Mar 4, 2010 18:19
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Hey, be glad that GW gave up those hex screw-cap pots, those were even worse. I have hex flip-tops from 1995 that still hold paint, but all my screw-tops dried up in months. loving things. How are the metallics for P3? I have pretty much only bought Vallejo paint recently (except for GW washes) but I wasn't really taken by their metallics.
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Mar 4, 2010 18:49
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Maybe I'm alone in disliking bases that are that busy and complicated. Not only does it seem like a pain to try and attach your standard model to them, they're just so packed that it seems like it would detract from the model itself most of the time. I also get spergy about the way they end up conforming directly to the base dimensions. Why is there a tiny little goop pool the exact size of the base? Why is someone standing on it. Why would you be standing on the opening iris of a rapechamber? The ones Cakefool (I think) did were really nice, they had lots of neat little industrial elements while still looking like part of a greater scene and not overdoing it too much.
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Mar 4, 2010 19:22
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:How do you folks store your wonderfully painted miniatures? I've got two blocks of infantry with a third being built, and I wonder where the gently caress I'll be putting this poo poo soon. Share and enlighten? I keep my Lizardmen in a carrying case (because they're what I most frequently use) and my Eldar are in a display case in my room (because I almost never play 40k). I will mention that I am very far from a painting god, but I spent a lot of time on the Eldar over the years and I'm kind of proud of having amassed such a large painted force - so they're displayed, but in my room because I don't want to broadcast my terrible nerd hobby. In terms of real storage, I really suggest using some sort of magnetic system - ie, all my bases are magnetized and my case has metal insets, so the miniatures basically just stick to the case. I say this because even if you put on a good layer of matte or gloss finish, taking a miniature in and out of foam will wear through and damage the paint.
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Mar 6, 2010 04:08
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I'm not really against white primer, but I haven't found a good white gesso yet and I'm sick of huffing spray paint.
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Mar 16, 2010 04:29
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Sole.Sushi posted:There's this clear gesso I saw at a nearby craft store. I am curious as all gently caress as to how well that would work. Clear Gesso? That's insane. You're insane. What the gently caress man. Actually, that could be very cool - I'm imagining that you could mix it with whatever color you want to basically put down a primer coat, brush on equivalent of those GW army primers. I use white and black sprays for whenever I can set up a bulk priming job, but most of the time I end up just using black gesso because I can just do the one miniature I am actually going to work on, and I can do it at 11PM or during the rain or whatever. My wife has some white gesso for canvas painting, but its way too think and I am too retarded to work out how to thin it properly for model use.
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Mar 16, 2010 16:53
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crime fighting hog posted:Okay, so my Black Templars look like rear end because they're the army I learned to paint on. I'm all for keeping old models for the sake of knowing how far you've coming along in terms of skill, but jesus christ most of my army looks like trash and only the more recent models I've done look halfway decent. Only a few are what I consider well done. I am in a similar situation, in that I have all the Eldar I have collected since I was in junior high, and I was always pretty good about painting as I went (because I was too broke to buy stuff often enough to outpace myself, mostly) So now I have thousands of points of Eldar varying from 'Holy poo poo bad' to 'mediocre'. My feeling is that it might be appropriate to keep one or two guys for old times sake (I will probably leave some of my old guardians with whacky/illegal weapons as they are) but you don't need to have an entire army to remind you how far you've come. Save a couple if want, then tidy or repaint the rest.
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Mar 21, 2010 04:26
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I haven't experience with those, but you should know that Chapterhouse Studios is about to go into production of their own bioblades - honestly both versions look good, just wanted you to know about the choices!
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Mar 23, 2010 13:47
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Yog-Sothoth posted:WIP shots of the early greenstuff on my farseer
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Mar 24, 2010 15:36
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Barry the Sprout posted:As I understand it, it is ill advised to use white gesso? I don't know if I would call it 'ill-advised'. There isn't really anything wrong with white gesso except that it doesn't have as good coverage as black - you can usually get a good prime with a single coat of black (or gray) gesso, but white can often need two coats. On the other hand, it is probably easier to give something two coats of white gesso as a primer than the use black gesso and then have to use something like dheneb stone or a several coats of regular paint for a lighter end shade. I would love to try some airbrush gesso, but it has a similar problem to regular spray - I only seem to get time to work on stuff at 10-11pm, when I'm not really able to work outside, and spraying in the house isn't really feasible.
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Mar 25, 2010 19:36
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Thats a pretty sweet use of the extra Stegadon head, nice job. Some of the greenstuff looks a bit rough, especially the transitions to regular plastic. You did say that you were still working, you can probably sand or fill for a smoother border.
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Mar 28, 2010 03:07
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Ok, I need some guidance. I am getting close to finishing up my Lizardmen army (holy poo poo) and the current project is my Slann Mage. I want to give him a color scheme that will stand out a bit, because he is an obese frog and there is nothing else exicting about him. My Saurus and Temple Guard (which is the unit he will be in) are primarily brown with an orange tint, scab reb shields and trim, belached bone and burnished gold accents in claws/trophies/armor. My Skinks (which are on the field but not with him) are a pale green with orange crests, scab red shields, and brown/bronze weapons and accents. The Slann Mage's palanquin is going to be largely dark grey, as its made of stone, with green and brown vines clambering over it. My current two thoughts for the frog himself are: 1) Blazing Orange, with a pale yellow belly, emulating this:  2) Bright green, with a light orange belly/underside, emulating this:  I am also open to other ideas. I am kind of worried about doing anything mottled or patterned because my painting sucks, but feel free to pitch the idea all the same!
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Mar 30, 2010 22:18
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Here are some more pictures (of your two I think the green frog itself looks cooler, but colour wise it might be a little plain) drat, thank you for this link. There are some really great ideas in there, I'll have to dig through and find some that I can actually paint.
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Mar 30, 2010 23:11
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chelsea clinton posted:We could maybe offer better advice if you took a picture of the rest of the army as a whole. Frankly I don't like posting the rest of it here because I think of this as the good painting thread, but what the heck. Here is the painted army so far:  Skinks:  Saurus:  Saurus Cav:  Stegadon:  Sorry that the pictures aren't great - we're getting packed to move from Atlanta to Boston and trying to get them all out and set up for a serious photo session is probably not going to happen. Still, hopefully it will give everyone some idea of my colors. I'm kind of liking the idea of blue, simply because I've bucked the traditional blue Lizardmen scheme so far.
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Mar 31, 2010 03:52
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So agreeing with this: Zarkov Cortez posted:Poisonous frogs are the best frogs chelsea clinton posted:You've got this whole brown/orange/red thing going on so maybe you should complete it with yellow? If you want to contrast instead go for dark blue with markings in various shades of paler blue. Here are the two final contenders:   I am leaning toward fat yellow frog because he looks more like a Slann, although painting that yellow and white could be hell.
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Mar 31, 2010 15:28
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I need to take a look at my paints and see what I have, I suspect that I don't have the right blue shades to do the blue frog, although I guess I could get super crazy and actually mix some paint, seeing as its a once-off. My other concern with the blue frog is that you don't actually get to see too much of the Slann's back, he's mostly face, belly, and arms. Either way I think that a white primer is going to be necessary, so I guess that's the first step. Gumby, that warhound is awesome, the progress has been really cool to watch and its great to see the finished product looking so good. There are a couple minor things I'd suggest (pretty much just blacking out the cockpit windows or otherwise defining them) but I understand the feeling and it looks really good. The plasma cannon is great, I didn't think that blue would work on such a large area, but it worked out well. The scorching on the barrel is well done too. Would you like to build me a Revenant Scout Titan next?
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Mar 31, 2010 19:08
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Stop that. They look nice. Thanks. It's just tough to post stuff in here when its packed with people doing awesome stuff I don't even understand. I am pretty proud of my Lizardmen, because its the first army that I have sat down, thought about the colors, and tried to keep themed throughout. It's also really close to done - I have the Slann I am working on, a couple Skink Priests, and my Terradons. Holy poo poo! I like the Gatormen much more than the GW Krox, especially now that they're Str4 - the GW ones just look too massive and chunky for their stats, and these gel pretty well with the skinks.
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Apr 1, 2010 17:45
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You could try using that dense pink insulation foam? People use it for shaping all kinds of terrain, if you have a hot knife or whatever you call those things it would probably help. Its generally dense enough to hold up and you could hit it with white glue to strengthen it.
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Apr 3, 2010 02:19
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!amicable posted:GS is awful. Are you dead set on using it? There are a lot of other polymer clays that are less like chewing gum. This is your second post of saying GS is poo poo (which is pretty questionable to begin with when a bunch of serious professionals use it) if you are going to poo poo on a product at least give us an alternative, thanks. What are you recommending?
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Apr 3, 2010 23:05
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!amicable posted:It depends. I like sculpey for blocking in larger things. For details magic sculpt is very good. It's water thinnable which is the greatest advantage over gs. It also dries much harder. Silhouette posted:ProCreate modeling putty. Less sticky than green kneadatite, but holds detail just as well, and can be sanded/filed/tapped like brown kneadatite when dry. Thank you! This is much more helpful. GS is where a lot of us start working because, well, its what GW sells and what they tend to talk about in any modeling/conversion articles. Turning up at a real art store or going online leads to a dizzying amount of options, and its not very feasible (both in time and money) to buy and test them all. If someone is knowledgeable enough to do a big write up of the different materials and their strengths/weaknesses, it would be a pretty awesome contribution to the thread. Also hubba bubba is poo poo for sculpting, taffy all the way.
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Apr 4, 2010 01:42
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bhsman posted:I need help with a paint scheme for Eldar: I think you should paint up a test figure with whatever shading/highlighting you intend to do, because that flat mock up looks really dull and bad. I would do the undersuit a different color than the plates if you aren't going to vary them up at all, or make sure to do plenty of highlighting. You also have red/green/white, so right now it looks mostly Christmas elf - make the sash a different color, maybe an orange or pale blue instead.
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Apr 5, 2010 03:15
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Chenghiz posted:The kneepads are weird but the torsos are basically in line with Hellenic/Roman era armour. I personally think that the aesthetic clashes with the rest of the armor. Hellenic armor is closely modeled to an idealized physique. The Sanguinary Guard have the torsos, but its matched with regular enormous shoulders and the huge bellbottom legs with these little grooves and stuff that are supposed to allude to that look, I guess. I don't have anything against the look, it just has a weird fusion with Space Marine stuff and doesn't quite come together. The sculpting and molding work is impressive, though, and ultimately it does look like a very good kit. It is also possible that I am biased because I just don't really like the Space Marine look in general.
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Apr 8, 2010 01:47
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Apr 8, 2010 16:23
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It always kills me when I see people assembling the new Wraithlord kit into regular standing poses. I bust my rear end working with the lovely metal ones to try and get more than a 'doot doot I am a robot here are my hands' look out of them, and kids are just throwing away the potential of the plastic kit. 
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Apr 8, 2010 16:45
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chelsea clinton posted:You know the guy in charge of decorating tanks is all "why do i even bother with this poo poo, not like orks and poo poo will ever be able to appreciate it but UGH FINE i will paint your goddamn ufo for you. sheesh." Dunno, the guy only seems to post his tanks, but it sounds like there is a bigger army as well:   
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Apr 8, 2010 17:29
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Yea, that Cobra pattern is pretty weird and I went back and forth about posting it because deciding that it is technically well done and even if I am not super-excited about the look it might stir some inspiration. Same thing with the Fire Dragon tank on the previous page. Generally I am a much bigger fan of patterning than representational stuff on the tanks, partly because it sometimes ends up looking like they parked it in the wrong area of town overnight and someone hit the tank up with some sweet tagging. I remember a very cool Harlequin wave serpent, but I can't seem to find the pictures now. Edit: richyp, send me your old metal guardians, I am trying to catch them all!
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Apr 8, 2010 17:41
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That is a very detailed and skilled paintjob, but that dreadnought looks like a well-tended hedge.
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Apr 8, 2010 17:53
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How I am supposed to avoid buying a dozen plastic walkers when you keep posting that link. Come on.
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Apr 8, 2010 22:33
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Well, time to buy more Farseers I guess.
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Apr 8, 2010 23:31
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The Phoenix Lords are ridiculously old (all of them were in miniature format when I started playing in 2e) so it would be pretty nice to get some variants or new sculpts. Having said that, the current ones have held up surprisingly well over the years, although a couple of them have that dated side-pose look.
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Apr 9, 2010 05:47
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