|
Cakefool posted:So, is the tales thread no more? Also, is this thread just for painted works? This is basically the tales thread but without the stupid poo poo about having to paint $50 in models a month or you're out. You can post in progs, ask painting questions, give criticism or just post really cool inspiring pictures. If you want to pledge something for the month, go for it.
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2009 15:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 15:24 |
|
|
I'm actually getting back into painting again it looks like. I needed a break and now I'm focusing on one project at a time. Just want to thank you guys for archiving my airbrush posts because I forgot how to mix primer and needed a refresher course. Once I start on gw stuff again I'll post updates.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2010 00:38
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:asking for the nth time Daylight
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2010 00:55
|
|
|
I don't know why I still try but gently caress GW paints when using an airbrush. I swear every batch of paint requires a different amount of thinner compared to the last. I had a pot of regal blue that I did 50:50 paint/Iso alcohol mix with and it still turned out to be way too thick. I swear by the time I got it thin enough it was more like 10:90 paint to alcohol. Of course by that time the airbrush was super clogged and I had to drop everything to strip it down and clean out.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2010 08:43
|
|
|
Gr3y posted:I need advice: Is this your first figure? Aside from simple greening and starting over, a wash might help blend in some of the highlighting. Aside from that, chalk it up to experience and start another.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2010 06:34
|
|
|
Prefect Six posted:You guys who use WN Series 7 brushes - do you get bristles that seem to randomly get bent and disjointed? I think I've almost got this whole paint brush thing down to the point where I'm confident enough to move on from my Army Painter cheap-ish brushes to the Series 7 WN, but this has been happening to me lately and I'm not sure if I'm not treating the brush properly or if it just lovely quality synthetic bristles. In my experience, it's really hard to mess up a WN if you wash it and tip it every time you use it.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2010 02:56
|
|
|
Prefect Six posted:What is this Making sure the brush has a firm tip; usually after washing I lightly twist the brush in my mouth.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2010 03:06
|
|
|
Phyresis posted:Don't use Tamiya Color metallics. I just bought X-11 Chrome Silver and it's loving terrible, looks like glitter suspended in medium. Gonna have to return this poo poo. I love mixing that with the gun metal they have though. Gives the gun metal a slightly more metallic look.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2010 21:58
|
|
|
Bavius posted:What do you guys think about airbrushes? Worth it or no? I found this little airbrush. I'm willing to throw down 100-300 so long as I won't be upgrading it for something better in a year or two (or have to pay that much in upkeep). Airbrushes are incredibly worth it. That one will be great for base coats, but something with a smaller needle will do insane detail work. And yes, they really shine best with tanks.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2010 06:53
|
|
|
Content post: Getting back into painting means I had to go through my workshop and figure out what was still good, what I still wanted to work with and what was essentially trash. I spent all day reorganizing it and upgrading my spray booth. Spray booth now has two very bright LED lights in it, so no more pointing artists lamps at it hoping to illuminate it right. I also tossed in a new air filter and built a little side cubby to hold my bottles of liquids for thinning/varnishing models.  Emptied out the drawers and got rid of a ton of crap, nothing really to see here.  Oh god it took forever to sort this. I have to say one year old gw paint doesn't hold up well compared to three year old tamiya paint. Basically I'm a huge workspace nerd and love organizing workspaces as much as I like painting. It'd be cool if you guys posted yours every now and then?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2010 07:15
|
|
|
Cost of the box was nothing because it was scrap wood I had laying around. The fan and the housing for the fan were something like $30 and the tubing was another $10 or so. The lights were fairly expensive at $25 a piece, but they should last me a long while.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2010 16:29
|
|
|
Bavius posted:What size needle do I want? Going to purchase one online tonight - pretty excited to try airbrushing out. That one you linked earlier will be perfectly fine for you. In fact the airbrush I still use is a 3mm, and it's lasted me three years. I'm only now just starting to feel comfortable enough with it to want to get something smaller/better.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2010 04:25
|
|
|
Bavius posted:Sweet. I'll be sure to post up my first model once I get the airbrush. I've got a stompa that is staring at me as I type. Also have a baneblade that I dreaded putting together just because I couldn't fathom painting it. First suggestion is to get some plasticard and practice with it. Practice spraying wide, spraying small, and most importantly, spraying evenly. Learn what consistency works best with your favorite paint. Airbrushes are great. You'll never have to pay for overpriced varnish again, you'll never dread painting tanks, and once you get good enough you can make and spray your own primer.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2010 04:49
|
|
|
ghetto wormhole posted:I have 22+ tanks, 3 Sentinels, and a Valkyrie to paint. I'm a beginning painter so detail isn't really what I'm shooting for, and the army is Steel Legion so the camo scheme isn't going to be too crazy. Would the airbrush he linked be good for me? Besides how the paint is fed and the needle size are there really any differences between airbrushes? There are huge differences with different kinds of airbrushes. If you're just starting out, don't go super cheap but don't spend $500. You want to look for something that's double action, internal mix. Gravity fed vs bottom fed is up to you. I have a bottom fed airbrush but I'm beginning to think a gravity fed one would suit me better. Airbrush kits that come with a compressor, pressure regulator and a water trap are also great for beginner. As long as you don't get something that uses air cans and is single action you should be good to go. There's a pretty good airbrush guide that I wrote here. Again I remind you that I'm far from an expert. I just do a lot of reading and playing with my current airbrush. But it's a good starting point. Now that I re-read that, I realized I never wrote the guide on how to make your own glossy/matte/flat varnish. I should get on that soon.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2010 05:09
|
|
|
Phyresis posted:I love you HKR for this guide but where do you buy your Mr. Surfacer 1200 and Mr. Color Leveling Thinner? I can't find that poo poo anywhere Places that deal in a lot of japanese models tend to sell em, as Mr. Hobby is a japanese brand. Us distributors get kinda boned because they all get their Mr. Hobby supplies from one distributor, and the entire nation tends to run of out stock before they get restocked. There's a few sellers on amazon that have some. Hobby Wave has 1200 in stock, but no leveling thinner. When I find a place that has a batch of both I tend to buy as much as I can afford since I don't know when I'll be able to get another supply.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2010 16:36
|
|
|
Phyresis posted:Awesome bro. Do you have any tips for using Mr. Surfacer to actually fill gaps for 40k models? This is completely new territory for me here. I'd like to fill the gaps in my Rhinos and such. Sure thing. I'm building a Baneblade right now and I'm using Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer (Akin to Mr Surfacer 500)to fill gaps.  Here are the notorious fuel barrels on the Baneblade. To fill that gap, GW suggests you use greenstuff, which is not the best tool for this job (Greenstuff is great for filling gaps in metal models, or for sculpting, not for filling small gaps on plastic). The best thing to do is glue the pieces as tight as possible with plastic glue, letting the plastic melt and bond the pieces as best as possible. After it dries, paint on a line of Mr Surfacer (Or any other liquid gap filler), let it dry, then sand. If the gap line is still visible, add another layer of surfacer and try again.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2010 00:27
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:How long until GW has its own liquid gap filler but at three times the price and only half the volume? Never because the poo poo is highly toxic and you can probably get high off the fumes.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2010 01:12
|
|
|
I need a gimmick to stuff inside this baneblade. There is way too much empty space in it to not use it.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2010 04:11
|
|
|
Someone should set up a tinychat and we can all sit in it with our cams turned onto our latest projects while we shoot the poo poo and exchange tips and poo poo. Though like many I spent too much money on hamms this week so I can't afford a webcam.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2010 06:19
|
|
|
30:70 of mr. surfacer to mr. thinner, or there abouts. You'll obviously want to get some test sprues/minis before you embark on trying it on your good minis. Make sure to have some spare lacquer thinner around to clean out your airbrush. Unlike canned primer, this can take several thin coats to get fully on the model. I recently primed my bane blade with this and it took about three hours to get everything primed perfectly. I've stored a mixture of mixed primer in an airtight jar for about a year with zero problems. And for the emperor's sake, wear a loving mask. This poo poo will kill you with the fumes. As for damaging your airbrush, I have more trouble getting GW paints out of mine then Mr. Surfacer, which cleans up very easily.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2010 16:32
|
|
|
Does anyone who airbrushes use some sort of air purifier to help with dust and hair settling on the drying model? A few of my recent pieces have some hints of dust settling on them during some point of drying and I would like to curb this as much as possible (Yes my house is clean but I live in a basement apartment so all the heating vents are in the ceiling, which often negates my cleaning efforts just hours after I finish. Also I am getting a long hair cat soon because I am crazy).
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2010 00:03
|
|
|
AnUninvitedGuest posted:I know he made the entry about spraying, I dunno if he made the booth. I thought it was someone more recently active like Crime Fighting Hog. I made a spraybooth:  spray booth 008 by staticd00r, on Flickr The frame was from...something. I'm not sure what it was supposed to be originally. So I just added some pieces to make it a box. It's not too hard. You basically want to build a decently sized box, cut a hole in the top, and put in a inline vent fan (like what is used for bathroom fans). Then you just need some tubing to take the fumes outside. Later on I added some LED lights on the inside so I can actually see what I'm painting. Down the road I'll actually want to re-do the box and create a plexi-glass door so no dust gets in while drying.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2011 00:43
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 15:24 |
|
|
One other thing I'd change on that design (If I had the room) was to put the exhaust fan on the back of the unit instead of the top.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2011 02:18
|
|