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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Christmas is coming early this year... Because it's the only way I'll get this damned thing done.



I actually intended Christmas Troll to be part of a diorama last year, but that plan fell apart and burst into (figurative) flames, so I'm focusing on just him and attempting to do a better job than my previous minis.

Of course, what you see is only the first stages of the skin and hat, and it took me all week to get off my rear end to do it... It just might in fact take until X-mas to finish it.

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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Shallow posted:

This Forge World guide is actually a pretty good "my first powders" leaflet.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Downloads/Product/PDF//w/weathering-powders.pdf

You can probably get powders cheaper from places like model railway stores. I'd imagine the Forge World powders will be of good quality, Mig and vallejo pigments are supposed to be good but almost of what I've used to date has been crushed up pastels. I don't necessarily recommend that though as pastels have other stuff in to bind the pigment together, so I can well imagine proper pigments work better.

I also tried the Tamiya weathering system. The eyeshadow compact style powders really aren't much cop, but the greasepaint style mud pen things are pretty good.

How well does something like the Tamiya mud pen work on something infantry-sized? I've started a little work on my Aridna Zou...ave... Rico Suave - well, the sniper version of this dude (odd, I can't find the real one on the Warstore anymore) and want him on a swamp/wet jungle base. Would something like that pen or other weathering powder work at making his boots look caked with mud?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I've decided to make another try at Gor-Rok using this guy:



I was able to cobble together his gently caress-off mace by chopping up the great weapon, but I'm honestly at a lost for how to paint him.

He's supposed to be albino. Any ideas for making him look like this:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Fyrbrand posted:

How do you like the model itself? Did the detail hold up well? I almost got one in an impulse buy for my 'starting soon I promise' lizardmen.

The right arm is too close to the dorsal spike for my taste (but that might be my fault), and the shield arm will need to be painted separately, but I like it.

I wouldn't use him as a regular Saurus hero, just because the anatomy isn't quite right (he looks more like a mini Kroxigor), but I'm hoping he'll look awesome as an albino dino with a gigantic beating stick.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Milkbags posted:

Anyone know where I can dig up some papercraft or paper doodads to cut out with cardstock and littler the battlefeild with? Stuff like easy to assemble bunkers or even crates and all that

I think Worldworks Games got either recommended or at least discussed a little in a similar thread. Every time I get tempted into papercraft I think about getting that massive pirate ship or Titan base.


There's also a sword. Ya know, for if you're nerdy enough to want a sword, but too cheap to buy one. Or you mom won't let you have a real one -- especially after the Butter Knife Fiasco.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

AnUninvitedGuest posted:

I'd like to argue that the sneakiest/scariest/violentest dude would rock red headgear. If you can't see him, why would it matter what color it is? If anything it would be a badge of badassery and proof that he is king.

It would also make him stand out on the board and provide great contrast to the green. (or you could do it orange for maximum clash.)

I wonder how Catachans would look with hunter orange headgear or vests. Like they visited Bass Pro Shops 40K, maybe little Xenos hunting licenses.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Welp, I was hoping to prime my AoW Lizardman so I could finally get started on making Gor-rok. Shame he decided to leap out of the clamp and explode on the garage floor... :negative:

The only join that didn't shatter was the pin, super glue, and ProCreate combo I used to make his great weapon one-handed for Gor-rok's giant gently caress-off club. So now they all got that treatment.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Still needs a lot of touching up, but how's this for a start on the albino Gor-rok?




It's a combo of Elf Flesh, Ogryn Flesh wash, and Bleached Bone, that I'm not even sure I can pull off again, but I think it's shaping up nicely. The scales will be either White or Bone washed with Sepia.

I'm also thinking of adding a patch of green to his back spikes - looking for albino reptile pics, I found one of an albino gator with algae or moss on its back. According to Gor-rok's fluff, his hobbies include standing motionless on top of a pyramid waiting for the next fight, so I figure he might have a little jungle growth on him.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I think I have Gor-rok's skin in a good spot now:




He got one last wash of Ogryn with a little Baal mixed in, then for the spikes and face scales it was white, washed with Sepia, then another thin coat of white to make them stand out a little more.

He still looks a little... fleshy, but I'm hoping when he's finished and gets dropped into a group of really bright and vivid Saurus, he'll look suitably Goonish pale. And he does seem to be close to the darker areas on this skink:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Paint Scheme Question:

I've started working on a Chaos Terminator Lord, and I'm kind of stumped on a paint scheme. I'm assembling it as a sorcerer lord and am leaning towards giving it purple glowy parts (and maybe attempting some OSL), but am completely stumped on a good armor color.

Yellow like some rogue Imperial Fist element? Bone? HELP ME GOONS.

If it helps, I'm using a head without helmet and have already painted the skin a kind of dead, zombie flesh.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I need to get my rear end back to painting , so on a whim, I picked up these guys:



They're from the game Rise of the Occulites by Darwin Games in Australia.

The pictures on the site and background fluff have them looking rather dour and being at home in swamps, but I'm tempted to go more... whimsical - like painting the heads of the little guys ("Luftles" as they're called) like Mario Piranha Plants and the big guy like something from a Kirby game.

Does that sound too nuts? I think I just need something not-so grimdark to get back into this poo poo.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Finally got to painting for the first time since April, and finished my Luftles from Darwin Games.


Spear-Plant:


Drummer:


Chief:


Family Portrait:


I'm pretty pleased how the Piranha Plant heads turned out. I think at this point, I just need to add some water effects to make the bases more swampy, and paint the rims.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Since it's getting close to Halloween, I figured I should give the diorama I've been kicking around for 2+ years a shot.

Here's the first mock-up:


There's one more skeleton to add in once I work out a good pose for him, but the end result will (hopefully) look like a Tomb King army rising out of the sands.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Quick question, O Painters of Green Skin: What color do you use for lips and such?

For some unfathomable reason, I tried Liche Purple and yeah...



Help me so my troll doesn't look like a goth or some poo poo!

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

LumberingTroll posted:

Try highlighting with a lighter color, it will provide more contrast with the wash.

Yeah, I definitely need to go redo the skin (I think I've been working on this damned thing for three years). My real question is the best way to do the lips - just same color, something darker (if so, what?)?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

MasterSlowPoke posted:

Mix your green with a bit of yellow. The purple wash is actually about perfect for shading that combination.

drat it. Before I tried the purple, I actually used Camo Green (I think, whatever GW's yellowish-green is) and didn't think to wash it something other than green.

Time to give that a shot!

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Got my troll done in time for him to move into my mom's festive Christmas village. (lovely pic because my battery was about to die and I forgot to bring my loving charger)



:tipshat: Mornin', Mr. Troll! Merry Christmas!
:jeb: Merry Chrshmush, Mistah Smiff! I got youse somthin'!
:tipshat: Oh, you didn't have to go and do tha-OH GOD MY loving PELVIS!

I still need to go back and redo some of the details, but gently caress it for now, I've been sitting on this thing for three years - it's done enough.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Post 9-11 User posted:

Second frame: what does the toggle switch do? :staredog:

It almost looks as though the rod holding up Megahind is in a slot - so maybe the "switch" is a way to adjust how far/near Megahind is looming in front of the deer.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Verdugo posted:

Wow the new Soda Pop line of full size minis is lovely. Got a Sword Paladin as a gift, and it's a bitch to put together. Also who the hell wears high heeled armor. My giant sausage fingers are having a hard time getting this stupid thing to stick together too.

To clarify this is the mini I am talking about and it's going to need a lot of work to even get it into the same shape as the display piece, not even counting the paint job.

http://www.heroesandlegendsgames.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=274

Why is she poking her sword into a giant street nipple?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Pierzak posted:

Maybe it wasn't that serious as it seemed from my post, but I've never had my skin come off that deeply. loving painful too. As to what kind I used - one I never used again. And I've never met with such effect again, not that I tried.

^^^: Yeah. Turns out bleach is not drinkable. At least more than once.

Did you just soak it a bit then yank? Because I'm pretty sure that's a Bad Idea.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Ashcans posted:

The ability of nerds to nearly maim themselves with this hobby never ceases to astound me.

Isn't there a joke photo log on building a model helicopter and each picture everything's just more and more coated in blood and the typing gets more and more incoherent?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I think I'm putting about as much effort into the base for this guy:



as I have for actual miniatures...

And now I've realized that the near-microscopic pebbles in his foxhole are in fact shell casings.

Good bye, precious eye-sight... :negative:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

malal posted:

and I designed the exterior parts of the Nautilus.

Judging by your previous contributions for the thread, is it safe to assume that the Nautilus will not only cut through the water, but actually make the water bleed and contract Tetanus?

This might actually be the first Syfy Saturday night movie that I don't watch to see how bad it'll be! I'll be watching to be insanely jealous and seethe with hatred for you.:woop:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

PaintVagrant posted:

Hehe, thats PV code for griphone sepia or however they spell it. Looks delicious.

Huh, here I was thinking Baal Red.

But then we do chili weird here, so maybe our Barbecue sauce is an aberration too.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Anyone have any tips for making bases/terrain that looks like it's had a recent rainstorm? Like, not "raining right now, let's jump in puddles while shooting dudes!" but "Great, it rained two days ago but it's still muddy as poo poo."

Here's (a lovely photo of) where I'm at right now:



There's some rocks in there that need picked out to break up all the brown, but since the dirt itself is so dark, I'd I like to try and make it look like a muddy foxhole.

Is it just a matter of adding some water effect puddles after a coat of varnish at this point?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Naramyth posted:

My Morbo is kind of a guardsman Bane. I don't have a photo of just him be he is in the bottom right of this photo.



I'm more digging the guy on the left with one arm in a sling and the other in a Power Fist.

"Doc, I don't know what an ulna is let alone how I broke it. Just gimme a Fist and put me back in!"

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

CrotchPheasant posted:

I actually just ordered a pair of land raiders from dicebucket the other day. The order process isn't the smoothest thing in the world (I wasn't entirely sure if my order was completed after I paid via paypal because it still showed the full amount due on my order when I looked at it) and it was shipped in a big envelope via USPS which I wasn't thrilled with. TheWarStore might be a little more annoying to deal with, since you have to email them for a quote and wait, but at least they send it in a box and via UPS. The speed for both seem to be about the same, and the only major difference is that with dicebucket you save a little bit more but just get the sprues/decals/instructions (everything except the retail box, which is how they get around GW's restrictions) and with TWS you get the full package.

How often does the Warstore change their prices? The times I've ordered GW stuff from them, I just make sure the price list I have is no more than a couple weeks old, put one thing in my cart, then put the GW stuff in the "Would you like to order items that are not listed on our website?" box.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Bob Ross brand grey gesso is my favorite when I can't spray something.

There's probably no real difference between it and the Liqutex bottles I have, but just seeing that logo makes using it so much more soothing.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

CommissarRed posted:

I wasnt originally, but now i am, yeah.

Also, does anyone use wood glue for their basing instead of PVA?

I have a jar of Liquitex Resin Sand medium and Golden Extra Coarse Pumice gel for basing.

It's probably way more expensive than glue/ballast, but I've had glue/sand bases peel right of. These gels seem to hold better, both to the base and to whatever sand or rock I sprinkle on.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Chenghiz posted:

edit: ^^^^ basic white glue does peel off, but craft/tacky glue (I use Elmer's Craft Bond) works excellently.

I actually have a bottle of that exact stuff for papercraft. I plan on using it after the gel jars run out, but that's not gonna happen any time soon.

They also make for an OK-looking mud if you don't add anything else to it.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Fyrbrand posted:

I use cheapass generic brand white glue and have only had it come off a base once. It was a flying base for a deffkopta, which I've since learned to scuff with some sandpaper so glue adheres better. But for regular models, the heck are you dudes doing that the sand is coming off like that? I'm not saying that to be snarky or anything, I'm just legitimately puzzled because I've never heard of that being a problem.

To be honest, I've only had it happen once.

Elmer's glue and sand on a regular base for a Warboss. I sat down to paint the base after spray-priming... and a big chucks came off with each brush stroke :gonk:

I don't know if it was the glue (the stuff in the bottle did seem more watery than I remember Elmer's being), the ballast (it's really fine sand), or what.

The next day I was in Michael's looking for some gesso (sometimes you just gotta prime, whatever the weather) and saw the texture mediums, and figured eff it.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Dominion posted:

Yeah, most of the time when I use glue/sand it works great and it's rock-solid, but every now and then I will grab a mini to paint it out of a case and the sand will flake right off. I dunno if it was done badly or stored wrong or what but it seems like sometimes it just don't take.

I switched to the vallejo texture paste becuase it always works, is a finer grain sand than I had been using which I think looks more like earth and less like gravel, and makes it one step instead of two. It's more expensive but it's still super cheap compared to everything else in this hobby (10 bucks for 12 ounces, which is enough to base at least a whole army if not two)

Does that paste hold things well? When I base with those gels, I usually add rocks or small patches of sand/ballast and the the medium seems to hold them almost like super glue.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

crime fighting hog posted:

Got my next Warmcachine Warcaster



wooooooooooooooo

If you don't actually assemble him like that, then you drat well better sculpt a horse mask on the dude :argh:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I apparently have way too many favorites. Overall, though my favorite is Warboss Rokkitzogger. Mostly because he got stolen from my desk at work :sad:

Good night, Sweet Prince :911:


There's also this lil guy:


He needs work still (like basing) But this engineer's face is enough for me to love him:

There's an unfathomable abomination coming right for him and he's thinking "Hmmm, did I leave the stove on?"

I still haven't painted "Ralf (Gre)Nader" yet:

Mostly because I just can't think of a scheme awesome enough for him.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Hermetic posted:

Plus, they have A Song of Ice and Fire minis, holy crap. They even have the Stark Wolves.



She's even laying down, looking up trustingly...Not gonna lie, there's a sick, sad part of me that wants to make some conversions to that mini that will end with a Tamiya Clear Red-heavy paint job. :black101:

You better treat that Clear Red like gesso and glop it on.



(Couldn't find a wolf, but the principle's the same.)

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Finally got my rear end in gear and started painting again. This time, it's the Gnome game pieces for the game Red November.




They still need a good bit of touching up, but I'm not sure how much will get done because they're freaking tiny and shittily molded (plastic is so soft I was afraid of loving them up so I didn't bother with moldlines).

Also I cannot for the life of me figure what I did with the game itself :negative:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

LumberingTroll posted:

Has anyone used the Liquitex Basics acrylic line? They come in tubes and I was wondering if added to matte medium, and matte airbrush medium if they would be suitable for miniature painting. 48, 22ml tubes for $41.60 sounds like a great deal to me.

http://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Asso...ywords=liquitex

I have a tube of Burnt Umber in that line, and even after thinning the crap out of it, it always just seems way to thick to use on a mini. I like it decently enough for bases and such because I can glop it on, but for areas with detail? I'd probably say no.

I've only just started painting again after another hiatus. I finally finished an attempt at a piece of terrain, complete with a lovely first attempt at lichen:




And I made a dwarf bad that I snuck into my mom's Christmas village when I visited during the holidays:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Finally finished something I'd started about two years ago - gently caress, I'm slow.



:black101::byobear:


Now I just have to figure out how much snow to slather on it...

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I've been feeling really productive of late, so I'm starting to finish off my massive backlog of partially painted duders, and space duders.

Such as this Ariadna Zouave:



At first I was freaking out because the Liquitex matte varnish I slapped on him was way too shiny, but I had been planning from the start to make him look muddy and dirty. Now he looks muddy and rained-on, I guess.

I also tried like five times to do the eyes and failed each time. :ohdear:

Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jan 30, 2013

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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Just almost-finished a Space Elf Space Wizard.



I still need to do some effects for the blades and I'm absolutely hating my first attempt at painting lava on the base (my Golden Yellow just looks too damned dark and I didn't blend like I should have).

I'm also torn on whether or not I like the white robes. Oh well, I'll give it some time and revisit it later if I feel like I need to.

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