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So after reading this thread and the 40k thread I've decided to unearth my old minis and start playing again. I have a ton of marines but I was never very good at painting so I ended up with smurf horrors like these guys. To try and save some  I'm gonna go for the strip it down and restart approach. After 4 years in a basement they are likely to need a bath so after a washing with soapy water what is something that can take off GW paint but not eat the mini's?As expected my paint is all long gone or a solid block so what is the best bang for the buck now days? I used to use GW but I know that they overprice like hell, I was thinking Vallejo or should I go else where? Bonus Pics of what i get to do this winter.  Bonus bonus pic of titan just because a chain fist the size of a tank is cool. 
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Dec 22, 2009 02:41
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Something of a dumb question but this is new for me what is the purpose of the foundation paints GW has?
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Dec 24, 2009 03:37
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Captain Invictus posted:What does this stuff do to resin and would it be safe to, say, stick Armorcast parts in it. I'm going to be coming into possession of some Titans and I'll want to strip the paint from them, but if it's not safe to do with simple green or LA's then I don't know what the gently caress If your talking about the armorcast ones they can take a lot of abuse, I striped the ones I have now with DOT 3 Brake fluid when I got them so I think simple green or LA's should be perfectly safe.
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Dec 24, 2009 14:46
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So this afternoon I visited every dollar store in my city and couldn't find any Simple Green or LA's apparently its non existent in central new york, could someone either post the ingredients or a third option? I'm getting paint this Friday and would like to have some of my mini's cleaned and ready to paint by then.
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Jan 4, 2010 21:55
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if there are any bigbox retail stores in your area, but target/walmart/kmart have simple green. If you cant find it in the cleaning dept., look in the auto area. Good call, Just as you said they had it in the automotive section of Walmart. Just got done sending my smurfs into Nurgles bubble bath. Hopefully by this weekend they will be ready to get repainted. I used the concentrated stuff as is out of the bottle, I vaguely recall this is the suggested procedure but could someone just confirm this for me?
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Jan 5, 2010 23:30
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So got my paints today and painted up some marines to see how my idea for a scheme would look. Ran into an issue with yellow though, it seems to end up being very thin and watery making painting with it a bitch. also didn't get very good coverage. That said, whats the best way to do yellow on mini's? pics of what I tried 
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Jan 10, 2010 06:12
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Ok so after a few tries I think I'm getting the hang of this yellow, they look more yellow and less mac and cheese. Here's a few pictures of what I've done so far, thoughts and suggestions would be nice.   This is what I was going for.
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Jan 12, 2010 04:18
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So I went ahead and gave red bolters a try, when I get the rest of my paints I'll try the bleached bone on the chest wings. I think its a lot better, the black was too much black for the color scheme. *Edit* Also reading the 40k thread I sorta had an idea, would it be worth magnetizing all my marines arms so that if vanilla marines got boring I could toss on swords and pistols and run BT? Shrieking Muppet fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 02:18
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Iron Crowned posted:Hell, I'm really digging Fix's .gif in the other thread, I think it would be pretty cool to just swap arms and backpacks and viola, traitor legion. Hell I can see no reason why not, more work but would make for much more variety in game options. I know someone posted a site with 100 magnets for $10.00, anyone still have that link?
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Jan 13, 2010 03:00
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Crap, I just ordered these http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZD4 I take it they are gonna be too small?
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Jan 13, 2010 03:37
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Yeah some putzing around with the conversions gives me about that same size just in metric.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:45
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Question on rhino side doors, whats the best way to set them up so that they can still be opened?
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Jan 15, 2010 19:14
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Chenghiz posted:This is the best (and only) tutorial I've seen: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=35817&hl=rhino+doors Sweetness, Might be a lot tougher with the rhinos already built but I'm sure I can finagle it. I think this has likely been discussed already but what would be a good white primer aside from spray paint, I live in upstate new york and its too cold to spray outside and my past experiences with black spray undercoats was horrible. I know someone mentioned gesso (spelling?) but I have no idea where to find that.
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Jan 16, 2010 07:28
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Aranan posted:New Microarts Studio stuff The idea of having crusader terminator armor is almost enough to make me break down and buy a set of the plastic ones and those shoulders or use them as a custodians terminator squad. *Edit* Are these on Microarts site yet or these just promo pics?
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Feb 13, 2010 19:01
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Asciana posted:
Only horrible part is quartered schemes take sooo much longer to paint
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Feb 18, 2010 05:26
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Cross post from the oath thread I decided to try magnetizing my commander, not too hard although I think I might reserve it for commanders and maybe a terminator squad, although doing it for few troop choices is tempting so I could run BT from time to time.    Bonus Commander Gadget action 
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Apr 11, 2010 17:49
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Was feeling productive the other day so I painted up a librarian I had laying around, I think it needs another coat of paint on the shoulders and the eyes need some work.  Any suggestions for making crazy psyker eyes?
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Apr 30, 2010 02:04
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/\ /\ /\ Try putting one into the simple green, it should be ok, hell if its resin you could even use break fluid and quite often they survive. NecronSchmecron posted:Well, to my knowledge they're two different formulas here in the US. This dude I'm talking to is from here and says they are both the same exact thing. Pine Sol here WILL damage plastic if left in for too long. your quite correct, I've left just about every material models are made of in simple green for months at a time and aside form the desired paint coming off and green stuff coming undone they have weathered fine. they smell like the stuff though but nothing a few baths in water can't solve.
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Jul 14, 2010 22:08
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So for this months oath I've been working on some sternguard. I'm pretty happy with how they have come out this far but they need some extra touch up, any sugestions for improvements them would be great.    *edit* I changed the yellow from what I was using since after a few coats occasionally I would get more of a mac and cheese yellow, think its a huge improvement.
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Jul 18, 2010 02:26
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So I'm mulling over asking my housemates if I can use her air brush to give it a try. Can I use water downed paint or do I need to add something special to it?
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Jul 21, 2010 04:39
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Rurea posted:Either this or some isopropyl alcohol. Any particular amount? I'd imagine its at least 50:50.
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Jul 21, 2010 16:24
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More stupid Airbrush questions, I've never used one but after reading HKR's short guide I know that I should be wearing a respirator, can I get away with one of the jock strap ones for the short term while I try one out or will that not do me a bit of good. Also the descriptions make it seem reminiscent of spray paint in their behavior, should I be using this outside or can I get away with working near a window and just use a fan to ventilate things?
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Jul 22, 2010 02:12
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Still curious on weather I can use the airbrush inside, will it stay in the same spot or will I be putting a fine mist all over my room?
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Jul 22, 2010 17:54
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Question on varnish, I decided to try and be cheap about it and picked up a can of clear flat varnish at Home Depot. I've never used it before so I tried spraying it on some old test minis but it seemed to do two things i didn't want. It didn't seem to coat all that well and metal seemed to become more of a flat Grey instead of metallic. Any suggestions for getting an even coat and did the varnish I get was totally wrong for the job?
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Jul 27, 2010 00:34
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PaintVagrant posted:No answer other than "dont be cheap". Buy testors model master gloss in the little cans for 5 dollars See if i can find some, around here the nearest place with model varnish is where i play but its likely not all that cheap
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Jul 27, 2010 01:02
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The melting is usually caused by the propellants in the cans so i would wager that the varnish would so the same, still give it a test on something.
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Jul 27, 2010 20:47
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Korwen posted:So how do you guys power through painting a whole lot of the same model? I've always had terrible ADD when it comes to painting more than 1 of something at a time. I'm trying to paint a unit of Bastions for Warmachine and it's only 5 guys and I still get bored after putting a couple coats on 2 or 3 of them. How do you Warhammer guys do it, paint 50 of the same drat model? Do you not get tired, or do you just have more willpower than I and I just need to stop being a pussy and get to it? Hopefully I can learn the way to paint more efficiently, that will help for sure. I've found that it really helps to be in the mood to paint, some times I go for weeks where I can't even pick up a brush and other times I ignore just about everything around me and can crank out 3 or 4 squads a day. Also seconding the awesome music it makes everything better.
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Aug 9, 2010 15:13
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Could anyone suggest a good brand of primer?
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Aug 10, 2010 01:12
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Comically enough that's what I've been using I figured using a cheap $3 house paint was a bad idea.
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Aug 10, 2010 01:40
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Captain Invictus posted:Dunno if you guys were around for it, but White Dwarf used to have an ad on the inside of the cover in a lot of issues advertising an entire Chapter you could buy, for 5000 dollars. It included the 1000 marines, scouts, rhinos for everything, 10 old land raiders, 3 old preds, 3 whirlwinds, marneus calgar and all those fancy lads, metal assault marines and devastators, razorbacks, terminators, and the coup de grace, a Thunderhawk Gunship. The old metal one. Didn;t they sell the "spear of sicarius" on the GW site until recently? I think that was the entire ultramarine's 2nd company, it was something like $1300 I think.
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Aug 13, 2010 04:53
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Does anyone happen to know of a site where I can get textured plastic card, preferably US located?
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Aug 23, 2010 23:10
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Sole.Sushi posted:Micron pens: Great for small script and pupils, or the greatest for small script and pupils? Yes, I started doing this and I have not looked back, I also take this one step further and also cheat on my marines and use a red sharpie for the eyes since my brush work makes them look 
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Aug 29, 2010 14:00
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So in removing paint from one of my rhinos I made the discovery that GW chaos black primer doesn't come off. This wouldn't be an issue but seeing as I have been priming in white it makes things tricky as far as repainting. Could I Get away with priming over the black with white? or should I try something stronger than simple green for paint removal. The only thing after that I can think of would be DOT 3 brake fluid which is usable on resin but I'm not sure on plastic. Otherwise I might have a black primed rhino up for sale soon.
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Aug 29, 2010 17:57
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pw pw pw posted:You guys have been really good about feedback so far, so I'm coming to you for some advice. Idk the extra plastic card just doesn't do it for me, seems to clean to be ork handy work, maybe try some pieces that are jagged and hang over edges. Still not bad at all so far.
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Sep 3, 2010 00:15
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So I've been working on my oath most of this afternoon and have it pretty much done just waiting for bases from fix, needs some touch up work but nearly done. I am also thinking of highlighting the front part of the missile laucher with red to keep with the rest of the weapons in my army being red, try it or might screw it up?  
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Sep 12, 2010 22:23
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Captain Invictus posted:Have you been thinning your paints? The yellow on the second picture looks kinda smudgy, as does the silver on the sarcophagus in the third picture, though that might be artifacting, not sure. I do thin the yellow, I might have put down a layer of stuff that was not as thinned as I thought since I sometimes zone when I'm doing that one. The metal no but in person it seems to look fine, the Vallejo metal paints seem to come out like poo poo when i think them even a bit. Once I've used up what I have I'm going to just go back to GW ones they were noticeably better in that department.
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Sep 13, 2010 02:19
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Are you all sure about the enamel not coming off in simple green? My dread and some tac marines were entombed in enamel and they came out fine in simple green. I'd say go for it and try the simple green. also if those are pewter and can take all sorts of abuse, go grab some DOT 3 brake fluid and try that it removed spray on metallic enamel from my old armorcast reaver with the proper amount of scrubbing.
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Sep 15, 2010 21:32
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Bit of a dumb question but what metal paints out of either GW of vallejo make for good shell casings?
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Sep 19, 2010 19:53
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Miles O'Brian posted:Brazier of Holy Fire conversion. I've been scratching my brain and this is what I came up with as proof of concept. Does it work or no? Other than slimming down the supporting wire and cleaning up the brazier to skull joint, any suggestions? Could try and hide it inside of green stuff purity seals/parchment paper.
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Sep 20, 2010 15:01
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bhsman posted:Can anyone give me some tips on using powder cleaners to clean fresh resin bases? I checked the FAQ on Dragonforge but I'm still not exactly sure how I'm supposed to be doing this. Lightly wet them, pour on some Comet, and wait five minutes? I just cleaned mine, Used a dab of liquid dish soap and them a old toothbrush to scrub all over. Rinsed well and patted dry in paper towels and allowed to air dry for a bit.
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Oct 3, 2010 02:11
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