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Sometimes people on Craigslist are 1. Nuts, 2. Pad the price so people think they are getting a deal. I plan on putting my civic up for 300-400 more than I'm willing to take becsuse even priced with it's issues in mind people will try and negotiate me down.
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Feb 3, 2016 13:37
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tater_salad posted:Sometimes people on Craigslist are 1. Nuts, 2. Pad the price so people think they are getting a deal. Which to be fair almost every buyer and seller expects.
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Feb 3, 2016 13:54
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aldantefax posted:Is it kosher to post Craigslist ads in here to see if the actual listing is a legit good deal, or should that be posted elsewhere? I saw a single owner 2006 Mazda 6 S, manual transmission, hatchback with 103k miles on it somewhere a little higher than KBB "Very Good" condition - $5850 (ask) vs. $5543 (KBB). Additionally, it had a non-specific crack on the windshield somewhere that I can't see from the pictures. I tried digging around and it had red-colored gauges on the dash, which might imply it is a GT? It's not really clear how much room I have to bargain with. I would put money that if you looked up the cost to replace the windshield (print it from safelite.com), doubled it, and showed up cash-in-hand less that amount rounded to an even $100 you would own that vehicle. It is hard to turn down an envelope of cash, especially when dealing with the idiots on craigslist.
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Feb 3, 2016 17:18
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H110Hawk posted:I would put money that if you looked up the cost to replace the windshield (print it from safelite.com), doubled it, and showed up cash-in-hand less that amount rounded to an even $100 you would own that vehicle. It is hard to turn down an envelope of cash, especially when dealing with the idiots on craigslist. This.. If my bottom dollar is 3300 and someone walks up with 3k in their hand i'm taking it becuase now I don't need to deal with more craigslist assholes.. if someone walks up and says I'll give you 3k tomorrow I"ll let them walk and wait for another one hoping for the 3300
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Feb 3, 2016 18:53
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tater_salad posted:This.. If my bottom dollar is 3300 and someone walks up with 3k in their hand i'm taking it becuase now I don't need to deal with more craigslist assholes.. I put my civic up for a grand more than I wanted ($4k for a $3k civic) and I still got more emails than I had hoped. Thankfully the insurance adjuster who had just written the collision repairs on the vehicle offered me $3k cash-on-the-table for the car. We went to the repair shop their insurance suggested, and their insurance guy works there. Win/win as he can't come back and claim mysterious problems on my "AS-IS/WHERE-IS NO WARRANTY" sale. If you come to me with a roll of hundreds you're going to get the car.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:06
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What'd ya sell. I'm about to put my 2001 LX 2 door with 54k Mikes on it.. I figure the low miles is going to sell it quick. Needs evap solenoid 100 bux and suspension makes a bit of noise on bumps I suspect stabilizer end link.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:32
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I'd get the solenoid replaced since it's cheap to do so.
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Feb 4, 2016 14:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'd get the solenoid replaced since it's cheap to do so. I'd do the whole canister just to be safe since I"M also getting a gascap CEL occasionally.. we'll see what happens I'd prefer not to crawl under my car in 30* temps. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 15:24
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Proposed Budget: 10-15k (financing) New or Used: Used. Body Style: Interested in a 4 door, roof rack capable, cross-over. Rav4, CR-V. How will you be using the car?: I would like a vehicle to be able to take 4 people camping. I'm to the point where I'd like to start doing a bit more exploring and going off the beaten trail than just car camping. I'm not looking for something to go crazy, but there are plenty of access roads and 2 track areas I don't feel comfortable taking a Fit through (also moving from a 1 car house to 2 car house), so I'd like something I feel more confident in on new adventures. This will also turn probably turn into a commuting car as well. What aspects are most important to you? : I'm also interested in exploring comparable brands. I've been a bike/bus commuter for the last 10 years so I really don't know if KIA or Hyundai have gotten better, or if there are even more alternatives. I kind of like the boxier, older models of the CR-V. Open to suggestions.
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Feb 4, 2016 19:28
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I am considering purchasing an Acura TL type S with 97k miles. Pros are that it has one owner and he took meticulous care of it. Records of everything. Also just replaced all the common issues and some others totaling 1400. He wants 14.2k. I think I could get him to sell for 14k. My issue is that I feel weird paying so much for a car with nearly 100k miles. But the other part of me says that this is a rare car with good reliability and evidence of major wear and tear at this stage already replaced. All accounts point to a car that will last awhile. Is this a good buy or is there a better luxury car that I should spend my 15k on.
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Feb 5, 2016 07:18
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What year?
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Feb 5, 2016 07:26
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100k is nothing if the car has been maintained well.
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Feb 5, 2016 07:31
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nm posted:What year? 07 auto
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Feb 5, 2016 14:08
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Make sure the timing belt and water pump were replaced. It is due at 105k/7 years, whichever is sooner and its an $800 service at the dealer. Price point, I bought a private party 07 auto TL (not S) with 55k for $12500 in March, $13500 if you include timing belt and a few ticky tack services. The type S is definitely pricier. E: I love the car. I'd probably buy at that price with the proof of service, I didn't get that. antiga fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Feb 5, 2016 |
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Feb 5, 2016 15:20
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I believe the auto is a known likely failure point but other than that the car should be pretty good to go. I wouldn't buy it if you can't swing an unanticipated one off $1500 repair but outside of that it should be good.
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Feb 5, 2016 17:45
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I believe the auto is a known likely failure point but other than that the car should be pretty good to go. I wouldn't buy it if you can't swing an unanticipated one off $1500 repair but outside of that it should be good. I think, but am not certain, that 2007 is post transmission issues. Also, it is a more than 1500 repair if it happens.
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Feb 5, 2016 17:52
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I believe the auto is a known likely failure point but other than that the car should be pretty good to go. I wouldn't buy it if you can't swing an unanticipated one off $1500 repair but outside of that it should be good. 06-8 was apparently when they fixed that issue, at least from what I have read. Thanks for the advice guys!
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Feb 5, 2016 18:16
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I've probably asked this before, but any input on the latest generation Taurus? Doesn't seem very popular (big depreciation) compared to the Fusion or latest gen Impala. Looking at 2.0 turbo vs 3.5 v6, prices are similar but I'm not sure how to evaluate reliability vs mpg.
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Feb 7, 2016 21:56
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antiga posted:I've probably asked this before, but any input on the latest generation Taurus? Doesn't seem very popular (big depreciation) compared to the Fusion or latest gen Impala. Looking at 2.0 turbo vs 3.5 v6, prices are similar but I'm not sure how to evaluate reliability vs mpg. Early years had AWD issues if equipped with AWD, they might have fixed it by around 2013-14 but you may as well stay away from the AWD versions unless you need AWD. Other than that Fords will probably have more minor issues than Toyota/Honda but I haven't heard anything else too catastrophic. IIRC the 2.0T was more expensive new than the V6, I would definitely stick with the V6 for reliability especially since there is no real fuel economy advantage to the smaller engine.
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Feb 8, 2016 03:51
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Canadian here I'm currently driving a 2003 Mazda Protege with 167,000 kms that is driving a little rough and is rusted to poo poo, so with my new job I'm thinking its time to upgrade. I'm certainly not gonna be putting any more money into the current car I have so once I have to its gone. Unfortunately I don't know poo poo about cars or financing. I'm probably looking for a mid-sized 4 door sedan in the 10-15k range, ideally not more than 12ish. It'd mostly be a commuter car with occasional ~500 km road trips a month and maybe a few ~1500 km road trips a year so I'm looking for something with good highway mileage. I'm thinking I'll probably get a Civic/Corolla/Prius, maybe a Dart or a Lancer. Would it be smarter to get a 2013-2015 with around ~50k kms or should I just be looking at 2016's even if they are typically like 10k more? Also what's the deal with Lancers? I'm seeing some that seem pretty cheap (2014 with 25k kms for only 11,000$) are they typically seen as a reliable car?
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Feb 8, 2016 08:16
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Not sure about the newer darts but when they first came out they were utter poo poo, they are still probably base model dodge quality (crap) Again not sure about newer models but Mitsubishi is a pretty budget/bargin brand you'll lack a lot of the fit and finish you'll find in toyota or honda. I can't speak for reliability of newer ones but they are probably lowest on the list of imports. Not sure about Canadian price, I just finished midsized sedan shopping and ended up with an accord sport for 14,900 usd (a drat good deal imo, 2k less than any other dealer around) you should be able to swing either a civic LX (base) or ex (sunroof power seats etc) in your range, try if you can to get a 2013 if you go to a civic, 2012 they fell flat in the interior fit and finish,2013 was a pretty big upgrade. Speaking of fits you can assuredly find a 2013 fit in your price range, I know you said you wanted to go with a sedan, the fit is pretty roomy and has 4 doors, it's Hondas base model so it'll be lacking some creature comforts and trim levels that the civic has but go sit in one too.
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Feb 8, 2016 13:40
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A Typical Goon posted:Canadian here If you're looking at $15K CAD on a car with 25% of its useful life consumed (50,000kms of 167,000 kms, gross oversimplification) and they're charging a 40-50% premium on those first 50k-kms @ $25k CAD, I would get the used one with a good service record. Something which was a lease return, basically.
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Feb 8, 2016 16:41
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Don't buy a Dart or a Lancer.
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Feb 8, 2016 22:22
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To expand on that - Dodge has basically given up on the Dart, and the Lancer is ancient because Mitsubishi is too broke to roll out new models.
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Feb 8, 2016 22:32
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Don't buy a Dart or a Lancer. I figured there had to be a reason they all seemed so cheap. I'll probably get a Civic or a Corolla.
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Feb 9, 2016 02:31
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The Focus and Cruze are pretty good too. Not the auto focus, though.
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Feb 9, 2016 15:28
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Proposed Budget: Pref under $10k; under $8k would be stellar. Can flux up a bit if needed. Will be paying in cash. New or Used: Used. Body Style: Dont care; needs to fit two babies and two adults. Past that; I really dont have any vested interest. How will you be using the car?: Family is moving from inner city to suburb. We'll need a second car. Two babies, two adults. This will mostly serve as a commuting car for me, which consists of 30 highway miles each way, two days per week. Other than that, it's a "nice to have" but we have a 2015 CX-5 What aspects are most important to you? : Safety is nice. Reliability is cool. Ability to find one in decent shape without having to shop for months, as this will become an immediate and important need as soon as we move.
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Feb 9, 2016 18:27
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Any reason to not go Prius?
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Feb 9, 2016 18:41
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Any reason to not go Prius? Nope; thats one of the ones I've honed in on a bit; just wondering if I'm missing something. That and I've heard some car-seats dont fit terribly well; but I can try to find one to see how it fits.
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Feb 9, 2016 18:43
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Could be hard to find but a Mazda5 should fit the bill pretty nicely as well. You could also look at other small CUVs in the interest of ease of loading children and their vast quantities of stuff. Anything you can get for 8-10k is going to be somewhat less safe than your CX-5. I would look for good side impact scores and stability control as keys. Airbags are less important for kids in car seats, and car seats perform very well in front/rear collisions. Any midsize sedan should do pretty well in terms of interior space - the Altima, Sonata and Optima tend to hold their value less well than the Accord and Camry. The Fusion isn't bad but is not the most reliable choice. Avoid the Malibu.
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Feb 9, 2016 18:49
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Could be hard to find but a Mazda5 should fit the bill pretty nicely as well. You could also look at other small CUVs in the interest of ease of loading children and their vast quantities of stuff. Thanks! This is very helpful; we're leaning Prius if the seats will fit. Safety is a big plus, but at the same time we've got the CX-5 for any "heavy duty" / road trips, so it should be mostly minimal kid-transport in the new vehicle. Much appreciated.
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Feb 9, 2016 18:58
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I would lean Prius as well, even though it doesn't appear you're driving all that much.
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Feb 9, 2016 19:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:To expand on that - Dodge has basically given up on the Dart, and the Lancer is ancient because Mitsubishi is too broke to roll out new models.   here. So I have a 2013 Dodge Dart GT that I really like. At the time of buying I didnt like the look of the 2013-2014 Civics so I passed. Anyways, I am 2 years into my 4 year bank financed loan. Owe about $12,000. My friend who works at Honda asked me to come in after I commented on how nice the 2016 Civics are. She took me for a couple test drives in a EX and then a Touring (just to feel how the Turbo is). Loved it.Anyways... this whole meeting was based on potentially covering my loan and maybe a bit extra for down payment. The Dart has 26600 KM on it, no damage or wear, all checkups completed. The Canadian Black Book put my car at about 14-16K. I thought, cool not too bad. Well the dealer will pay off the loan/give me the exact amount and right now that's about it. It was closing time so no time to negotiate really. But they offered that plus 60 months, $261/biweeky CAD @ 3.99% interest. Right now I pay $204/biweekly @ 5.99%. Obviously it's lovely right? And I need to bring someone who can haggle better. But with this car being discontinued (which I learned tonight) and just announced in the past couple weeks --- should I jump on this as it can only get worse, right?
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Feb 10, 2016 05:47
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Vintersorg posted:But with this car being discontinued (which I learned tonight) and just announced in the past couple weeks --- should I jump on this as it can only get worse, right? If you want a new car then buy a new car but this is really not a reason to do so.
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Feb 10, 2016 06:01
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The Dart's resale value was always going to be poo poo, whether or not they continue making another one. You also seem to be shopping based on monthly (well, biweekly) payments, which is dangerous. The "deal" they're giving you on that Civic has you paying around $20-$22k more than you have left to pay on the Dart. I don't know how the Dart was priced in 2013 Canadian Pesos, but compared to the US MSRP at the time, that's about the equivalent of driving your Dart until you get to the end of the loan, giving it away, and buying another entry-level sedan. If you like the car, you'd be wise to keep it a bit longer. After just two or three years and under 20k miles, you have eaten a lot of depreciation and yet "used up" very little of the car itself. It's not like Dart parts are going to suddenly become unavailable, it shares a lot of parts with the wildly successful Jeep Cherokee, and drivetrain parts with quite a few other vehicles.
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Feb 10, 2016 06:29
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Vintersorg posted:
Um you dont get book for a trade, that's what they sell for, dealer needs to pad in some profit too. 4k down from what you had isn't too bad. Don't buy a new car becsuse dodge is abandoning the dart, buy and new car becsuse you want to. I'd also say that buying a 1st year platform (even honda) is not wise, this is a new motor and new chassis so chances are you'll be seeing the service dept to get the kinks worked out. If you want the new civic then tell them you need more for trade or more off the car or you walk away, you don't need a car so now is the time to negotiate, If the terms don't make you happy then walk away and either you get terms you are happy with or you dont. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 14:43
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It's not like the dodge brand is going anywhere in the immediate future. Parts and service will be readily available.
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Feb 10, 2016 14:48
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I don't think they're actually even stopping production of it for another year or so. It's nothing to be concerned about.
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Feb 10, 2016 14:52
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Thanks guys.  I wanted to get the Civic before learning of that last night - I figured I don't owe much and I can sell the car for at least the amount I owe. I'll work on getting the price down as that was literally the first offer then we had to go as it was closing time.
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Feb 10, 2016 15:41
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Vintersorg posted:Thanks guys. Why are you doing this, beyond a vague sense of "this new Civic looks cool?" Car payments are not a fact of life. You say you don't owe that much on the Dodge. This is good news, because it means there is less time before you own the car outright and don't have to make any payments on it at all. It is a bad reason to sell the car. Fiat-Chrysler does not hit a remote disable switch on discontinued models. The Dart will continue to work, parts will continue to be available for it, and mechanics won't forget how to work on it. Car models get retired all the time, they're just sometimes replaced with something that has the same product name and similar styling cues. If you owned a 2015 Civic, would you be freaking out that the model is being discontinued for the new 2016 platform? This is also a bad reason to sell the car. Any "losses" you have are unrealized, until you sell the car. Two years ago you bought a transportation appliance for somewhere in the neighborhood of $20,000. You say it's still reliable; in other words, it's doing what you paid for. Scary noises about market value don't matter until you put your car on the market. This is a terrible reason to sell the car. Now, if you have other reasons - you absolutely hate the Dart and love the Civic, and have enough money that it doesn't really matter to you - then it could still be a good decision. But, right now, it looks like you're trying to justify spending tens of thousands of dollars, enough to buy a brand new car, on a vague emotional impulse for something a bit newer and shinier. It is almost always a bad financial move to replace a functioning, reliable car, and you're not an exception.
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Feb 10, 2016 16:52
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