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ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Sunter posted:

I live in the bay area, no kids, no major storage needs. My daily is a motorcycle, but I'm looking for a fun car to take out on the weekend or for short shopping excursions. I have a friend ready to sell me a 2005 S2000 in good condition with 120k miles on it for 11k, but I want to make sure I'm not missing out on something more fun. I have no major life responsibilities and a beautiful garage with tools to work on most anything. Open to a more project oriented car as long as it runs more than it doesn't.

Proposed Budget: 10-12k. Would rather stay closer to 10k, but willing to invest a little more for something amazing.
New or Used: Used.
Body Style: Smaller - roadster, coupe, hatch, small sedan, etc.
How will you be using the car?: Commuting occasionally, mostly small errands and weekend pleasure driving.
What aspects are most important to you? Fun to drive, easy to maintain and work on myself.

I'm also looking at older miatas, gti's, etc. Does anyone have any experience with higher mileage s2000's or suggestions?

buy a 30k miles 2008 miata and don't look back

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ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Sunter posted:

Something with so few miles looks 3-6k more expensive around here, what are the big justifications besides convertible hardtop?

I admit I am a bit biased because I own one, but with the 2008, you get one of the best looking miata facelifts, and some other stuff like throttle by wire

with the low miles, you get the BEST sports car that feels brand new and has zero reliability issues.. and it's a sports car, unless you are some sort of gearhead specialist you should be buying one with low miles!
I don't know what happens to an s2000 after 100k miles but everything needs attention at that age. I could be wrong.

If you're prepared to give it the attention it will deserve and love the s2000 more, go for it, it is faster after all

But I myself choose the miata after driving an elise (mmmmm I wanted that 15k over budget beast), and s2000 (the two I looked at were just too.. immature looking).

At least go drive one!

ethanol fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Jan 5, 2015

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Awesome! posted:

do not listen to ethanol about miatas he has some weird fetish

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007





edit:ignore me, I can't read the post a few posts up

ethanol fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jan 8, 2015

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Hello, I just put a deposit down on a 2010 Honda CR-V. Single owner, garaged, so clean, no accidents. Mileage: 81,000 Price$9,700 talked down from 11,000 at a Honda dealer. Issue: I was kind of looking for a rav4, 2010 or 2011. The issue was I couldn’t find one that wasnt in piss poor shape and at ~10,500. The two rav4s I drove were both 12 asking and felt under-serviced with issues like broken ac’s and weird alignment issues . I like the crv enough, but I see it has a slightly worse reliability score on consumer reports. Not so sure about its awd in the snow compared to the rav4 either.

I’m pretty set on that crv because it was in such immaculate condition.

Edit: I did ask one of the rav4 guys to come down to $10,000 and he told me to get lost

ethanol fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 17, 2019

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I've owned a jeep and a subaru and both were awful.... which snow vehicle floats your boat?

Edit: I should add the usage case is a Vermont grandma, I myself drive a Miata in the snow.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Aug 17, 2019

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



The AWD system in the Subaru was absolutely a lifesaver in Vermont. There are time periods where the road will not unfreeze for a week or more, and this is when the car proved to be extremely capable. Directly comparing to my wrangler when I had it, I choose the Subaru because it easily handled better in weather. The problem is the Subaru was completely destroyed by rust, on a level I’ve rarely seen on any car even in Vermont. On top of that it had endless mechanical issues. Now I’m sure some Subaru’s are fine and rust is tricky for all cars here, but the other members of my family are 100% against Subarus now, and still demanding AWD. I know we can’t match that system, and I’m too far to help diagnose and fix any car issues anymore so I’m just putting them in something they want that I hope is a little more reliable than a forester and then stuffing snow tires on it.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Is it a bad idea to post links to the dealer ad? There are some flags that concern me. The first is prefaced by saying every $10,000-12,000 rav4 and crv drove differently from one another. In many the ac was broken and the suspension was broken in some way.

The crv I have put in paperwork for was clearly garaged, because out of ten or so it’s the first car I even found without a scratch or single spot of rust, anywhere, not even on the wheels, which was prevalent in these cars. The car looks brand new in and out, and looks meticulously maintained. The one issue I noticed was a slight vibration in the wheel only when turning slow speeds and frankly I’m not sure if I was being hypersensitive. Probably gonna drive it again right before signing just to be sure

The other issue is that there are no records in the Carfax of this car being worked on anywhere, ever, for anything except yearly emissions at a state inspection station. The dealer hasn’t done anything to it because they say it’s immaculate and needs nothing. It’s an 8,000 mile a year car with one owner and no accidents. It clearly was maintained and given it has running board and the brakes felt new...I’m inclined to believe it was an elderly couple who kept it in a garage. I’m guessing that means a local shop that didn’t report for the worked.

Anyways it drove frankly great and simply can’t ask for more in terms of exterior and interior condition. I drove a 105k mile rav4 yesterday in the meantime and it was in rough shape like all the other cars.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Aug 18, 2019

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



zapplez posted:

Have you driven a Honda similiar to that year before? It might just be more of a drivers car and you aren't used to a steering wheel with some feedback. Especially if you are comparing it to a Toyota which has some of the least steering feel 2nd only to Buick.
I hesitate to call it a drivers car, but yeah I think it's just some very minor vibration don't need to worry about. I did drive several other 2010 CR-Vs

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

What is preventing you from buying this CR-V? As far as I can tell it’s some nebulous conception that the rav4 is more reliable, which it isn’t in a meaningful way.
Not much, should be taking ownership sometime this week

IOwnCalculus posted:

How the gently caress are you finding mainstream cars that cost that much that have broken poo poo? At that price no CR-V or RAV4 should have anything significant broken.

Admittedly went to too many weird used car only dealers from cargurus.com.

The CR-V I choose is at a honda dealer like where I had luck buying my other cars. Haven't done any private sale looking because I don't want to deal with normal people.

Anyways, definitely going with the one I found.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Aug 19, 2019

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Having just done the dealer routine they definitely like to negotiate in person. But you are asking .like 2 k below blue book so you should expect chances are you'll walk away. I wouldn't consider it a waste to lowball dealers and potentially get a deal but when i was dealer shopping there was enough inventory of hondas and toyotas to look within 50 miles so I didn't waste time.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



IOwnCalculus posted:

On the other hand, without evidence showing the head gaskets have been done (either a Carfax entry or receipts), I would assume they're original. On a newer car with relatively low mileage like that I would expect even Subaru's worst head gaskets to survive at least that long.

I'm two weeks late to this post but I thought I'd just reflect that when I was buying a new car a few months ago, I found my recently sold rust bucket subaru forester on craigslist being flipped for 2K higher with no mention of the major reasons I sold it, and a false claim that the head gasket had been replaced 6 months prior to me selling the car. (also definitely same car as it had clearly identifiable scratches)

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Facebook marketplace

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I want a new bronco now

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Here’s another one for you, is penfed gooder than my local credit union..

Edit: not even exclusive... anybody can join?? Pff forget that I’m all about my loan exclusivity

ethanol fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Dec 29, 2020

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I kind of want to look into penfed but I already let the stupid navy credit union pull my credit because im dumb as hell and didn’t know the button was gonna do the hard pull.

my local union is like 3.5-4% with excellent credit so I dunno whether to even bother having them do an inquiry if it’s that high for excellent. They do have pretty good customer service. Just trying to avoid having too many inquiries. But maybe just do both anyways.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Talk me out of buying my 4x4 pickup Tacoma Silverado or Canyon brand new instead of used

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



its the old reliability question that scares me from domestic...

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Never off-road in anything you can’t afford to replace. I’m shopping for picks ups for winter commutes as well and it’s clear if you start picking off-road packages you’ll rack up the price, destroy fuel economy, and potentially make the truck much worse for commuting, and then it will be substantial risk to use it for offroad because your truck now costs 50 thousand dollars. Are you going to risk that on the trail?

Just something to keep in mind while you shop for trucks and are submerged with trims. You can always add off-road components later in the trucks life

I want a Silverado 1500 but they’re drat expensive, mainly been looking at Tacoma SR5s but on the fence between that and just getting something smaller and cheaper and bedless like a crosstrek. Scared of f150s because the brand new one at work has a bad case of death wobble

Edit: guess I was late to this convo

ethanol fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Feb 24, 2021

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



My problem with the bronco is if you want the better transfer case it’s way way more money

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Everything that is important on my Nc miata has been super reliable. Problem spots include a tearing top, problematic drainage holes that sometimes dumps water into both the footwell and trunk, and I have to do the brakes almost every drat year (and that means financially I just do them myself). I also had to swap the blower motor resistor when the hvac went out although that very well could have been because of the problematic drainage I was taking about which happens to run very close to the resistor.

Good car, not practical in any sense though, obviously. It’s not as cool as any other generation miata though, and I think it has the most body roll. But it might very well be the cheapest these days?

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Maybe if you’re not needing all the performance parts, the Mazda cx line looks pretty good? The turbo charged ones look pretty fast actually. I was thinking of test driving one . I can never remember which is which though, cx-5 cx30, cx-3. I wonder how the awd handles winter driving compared to say, a crosstrek

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I purchased a 2010 crv for my mom with 80k miles on it for 10k and it does pretty well in Vermont. Ive driven it a fair bit in Vermont winter. No issues with it yet. I’d rate Subaru awd as definitely a better system but not totally necessary. The crv spends most of its time in 2wd but it kicks in for her driveway. Snow tires a must. She had a Subaru before and it fell apart, reliability seemed questionable on 10k price range subarus at the time.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Space Gopher posted:

This is the answer, as long as you only need "FWD with occasional help" AWD instead of something with maximum capability.

Older CR-Vs and RAV4s might still run into the "$10k gets you something 10 years old with 100k miles on it" problem, because the used car market is batshit right now, but they're for the most part very reliable, and driven by a demographic that usually doesn't abuse their cars too badly.

it was 8 years old at the time

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Prius AWD is going to be mostly useful for getting unstuck, going up a slippery hill, or driving on a road that is somewhat managed in a snowstorm like an interstate or major highway. Due to ground clearance you'll run in to the snowplowing problem relatively quick (where your bumper acts as a snowplow and builds up a nice big pile of snow) and basically no amount of power and traction will solve that issue.

My general opinion is that if you really need AWD for poor weather traction you are relatively likely to need more ground clearance as well. AWD for high power applications, that's a different story.

True it’s the same predicament I’m in, but my job literally involves driving worst condition imaginable through high snow depths so now I want a ludicrously expensive 4x4 pickup (more specifically hopefully talk myself into a used sr5 because paying 35k for a used trd off-road is lol).

But that’s a recent development for me, before I took this job, I still lived in winter climate and went to the mountains and 99.9% of the time snow covered mountain actually boils down to slick but recently plowed road that almost any car on snow tires can handle. Buying lifted vehicles comes with a whole lot of disadvantages for slick highway driving if you ask me and not even considering it in the dry.

Anyways gently caress it let’s all buy Broncos with lockers for 45 k

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



PCjr sidecar posted:

Let’s buy Bronco sports without lockers for 45k. Ford Edge, but edgier

I kind of like the bronco sport, it's got some obviously clearance issue but it looks like it holds its own. But I think I'd rather get a ranger unfortunately the ranger with options moves into the trd offroad price range.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

if you're buying a taco you might as well buy new

if only they weren't 40k new, I'm just twiddling my thumbs hoping by summer prices might come down. but probably not until 2022 at this rate. i'd just rather spend 30k

ethanol fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Apr 15, 2021

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



What about negotiating power on lot vehicles like the Tacoma that are super popular and relatively low stock (but there are 2-3 on the lot). I’m guessing still zero

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Yeah I’m looking at targeting my auto purchase for last week of June

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Honestly never been more scared in a car than like 2008 when my girlfriend’s xj had the worst death wobble I’ve ever seen in a vehicle.

My 99 wrangler also taught me and my wallet that axles and gearing actually do matter when you’ve got oversized tires, so maybe find an xj with a Dana 44s or 60s I don’t know which trim came with what although I imagine 60s are only owner replacements. I replaced my stock Dana 30/35 with 44/44 out of a wrecked rubicon. It was a nightmare

And then trailer it everywhere and learn how to weld like Matt in Matt’s off-road recovery. Actually if you haven’t seen Matt’s off-road recovery it should be a pretty great reminder of how much work an xj needs to stay alive

Dudes always breaking something

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



That sounds right. I wonder how many surviving XJ still have their D35? Maybe a fair amount of people never upsized their tires? Anyways, if you are going to buy a jeep of that era for wheeling, I would take careful attention to what axles are under it, you can find pictures of the diff housing on google so you can check under vehicles. Or figure out if you're comfortable paying upwards of 3k depending on your thriftiness and mechanical experience to replace that piece of poo poo d35 if/when it breaks.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



powderific posted:

The 8.25” c-lip whatever that was normally on most of the good xj years is fine and the stock situation is much better than the 30/35 stuff on a lot of wranglers if you’re not doing big tires and whatnot.

drat that's infuriating, wrangler owners got so owned

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Think I paid $1200 for the two rubicon axle assemblies. Maybe more. They showed up in rough shape and I was very unhappy. The seals ended up being bad so that cost another $600 or so. The suspension was rusted to poo poo so I ended up buying more and more hardware as it went on. Yeah let’s just say the just empty every pocket was exactly right for my jeep. When the clutch and ac went I got rid of it. Also the hvac would endlessly burn up switches. I blew up that 35 at a stoplight on pavement btw. Took it to a diff shop and they threw their hands up at it

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Can new msrp change within a model year? I could swear the msrp on Tacomas went up again since 3 months ago

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



LionArcher posted:

Okay, I found a local corolla I want. 2009, (white color ) third owner, 108K, clean title for 7.5K. We talked on the phone, and he agreed to my term of driving it to a local auto shop I trust to do a safety inspection (which I'll pay for). He's leaving town for ten days tomorrow, and I said that's fine, and he'll call when he returns to set up the day to do this. That all sounds good, but he was then a little vague ramble about title of car, since he bought it recently from a friend, and something about the dmv taking " sixteen weeks for more paperwork"and he's only selling because his job went remote so he doesn't have to drive between the two towns he was planning too.

I'm not an idiot, and (i'll have my father who's a former mechanic with me at the actual sale) but just wanting to know what I need to make sure he has so I don't get screwed over scammed if/when he calls back and agree to before we meet.

Sounds like a title jumper. Meaning he bought the car for a lot less, likely hidden whatever devalued it from you, and is now trying to skip tax by keeping his name off the title

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



one week left to talk me out of a new tacoma trd off road

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



IOwnCalculus posted:

Colorado ZR2 with the diesel.

That’s prob 10k more

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Dealer 2 hours away has a in transit tacoma with my chosen options (tech package and led head/fog light) and color (white). I don't want to run my credit for another week (zero'd my revolving accounts a while ago, if that matters, hasn't updated yet). Curious if maybe I should try to get a deposit on that truck to hold it for 7 days? I've always been shy about deposits before

ethanol fucked around with this message at 15:07 on May 12, 2021

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



well I went to a toyota dealer and instead of a tacoma trd off road on the lot they offered me a 1-4 month wait list.

well gently caress

I'll probably snoop around and see if any of these online ads are actually really on the lot.

I drove both a automatic and manual used trd off road instead, still can't decide which to get. the manual has a insanely long clutch travel, like laughably so, and the first gear is seriously very low range with no pull. So the automatic felt better off the line, but once at speed the manual seemed superior as I had that rpm control. tough call. I'm leaning towards the manual because it's also like 2k cheaper, and they have a new one on their waitlist I can order.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 01:42 on May 19, 2021

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Manual forces you to have a 5 ft bed is probably the biggest negative, still leaning toward it though

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



bad news the 4 month wait list for tacomas has me looking at waitlists for 2021 broncos again

Edit: I put a deposit on the ‘21 manual tacoma. Build date: june 21. Delivery: July maybe. I gave in after calling all the Toyota dealers and they’re all doing that so I went with the local closest dealer. Oh well. Hope it’s a good truck

ethanol fucked around with this message at 22:41 on May 20, 2021

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ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



LionArcher posted:

Does it come with CarPlay? And extended cab?

Double cab. The access cab only comes in a manual on the trd sport for some weird reason. Yes. I will not have a “real truck”. It’s more like a explorer cut in half. Im fine with it. I think the shorter wheel base is better for daily driving and I have actually high centered before and I don’t like that.

Don’t they all come with CarPlay now? I didn’t check, I’m not super concerned with radio nav options.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 23:14 on May 20, 2021

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