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What bad things about the Mazda 6? It is a solid car.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2012 18:53 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 03:26 |
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Mazda 3 skyactiv But the hatch not the sedan because sedans are dumb in that class.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2012 20:20 |
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Manuals aren't really that bad in traffic in practice.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2012 03:31 |
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LorneReams posted:I love manuals, but they suck in traffic. Nothing like going up a sharp incline in the pouring rain stopped in bumper to bumper traffic at a light... I don't know, I've done San Francisco at rush hour too many times to count, and LA isn't poo poo.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2012 04:59 |
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HondaCivet posted:It's coming up on 100K miles so it has some maintenance stuff coming. My b/f and family said to either commit to it or sell it at this age. I assumed that selling while it had value still would be better, plus I'd be getting out of paying interest on loan payments. I could be wrong though. I have just under $8K left on the loan if it matters. Stop listening to the internet (except me). There is no battery problem on priuses and they're going to 300k on them. Car has a huge amount of troublefree life left. Keep the car.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2012 20:35 |
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HondaCivet posted:I'm more worried about time killing the battery than mileage since it's an '05 but I have decided to keep it after all since it really is pretty much what I want even if it's a bit big. If it does fail, the cost for the battery is $2300, however, your battery has lots of valuable minerals, so it is actually worth a hefty chunk of change ven when it doesn't work, allowing you to recoup much of that cost. Hell, Toyota will good will these much of the time. Whatever you buy for $6000 is going to be less reliable. The Prius is basically the most reliable car sold in America. Any car can have a $2000 failure -- transmission failure, engine issues, cats, etc. This one is just less likely than the rest. Keep the car.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2012 01:52 |
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HondaCivet posted:Dangit I should've asked BEFORE I paid hundreds of bucks to get it presale detailed. Oh well, at least it's pretty and clean now. Thanks everyone, I now feel confident in my decision to be an eternal Prius owner. In any event, if you're going to be keeping a car forever, you should be waxing it (or having it waxed) ever 6 months anyhow.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2012 07:16 |
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Terminus posted:http://www.teamtoyota.net/specials/new.htm Yeah, with $3000 down plus $1500 in rebates that you probably won't qualify, you're only financing negative $157 (based on their published cash price, which you could likely bring down more, making it even worse of a deal). You're basically paying $5800 to lease a stripper corolla. That's more equivalent to a $250/mo lease. You could lease a good car for that. Don't put money down on a lease. -- You should buy that 2005 Prius that other guy is worried about. (Or a Ford Focus) nm fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jul 22, 2012 |
# ¿ Jul 22, 2012 07:11 |
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I'd get a Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ over that any day, though I'm not sure if a sunroof is available. You could get a Miata with a retracting hardtop (a giant sunroof). Mustang V6. Civic Si Maybe a somewhat used 370/350z. There's nothing particularly "wrong" with that car, but there are better options. Also, why an automatic on a car like that? Particularly if you want no problems for the next decade.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2012 20:28 |
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Mean Bean posted:The Scion looked ok, Veloster still does better than any of those on gas mileage. I don't really care about automatic I suppose. Turbo cars are especially subject to this. I have to have the softest foot and say a prayed to get my EPA numbers. Note also that a turbo can bring more to go wrong. While turbos themselves are more reliable than ever, they cannot be expected to last beyond 100k mi (though most do, I'm at 120k mi on mine and it is fine, though I have money in the bank for it when it does happen), plus as your car ages, tracking down boost leaks gets loving annoying. As for Priuses, they're very reliable cars, but they're fairly gutless. I often recommend the Prius, but based on what you were looking at I didn't think it would fit. nm fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jul 22, 2012 |
# ¿ Jul 22, 2012 21:33 |
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Throatwarbler posted:It's basically the same as the full size Prius - adequate for every day driving. You know, more fun to drive a slow car fast and all that. quote:The automatic in the Veloster turbo isn't the DSG, it's a conventional slushbox. Basically with such a small engine if you get the auto half the power boost from the turbo is lost in the drivetrain. I'd note i'm not recommending the mini or VW because I'm not sure of their reliability.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2012 23:06 |
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:Has anyone bought a car through Costco? Tell me about it, it looks like one could get a decent deal. My dad uses a similar service, but his time is worth a lot more than mine.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2012 00:21 |
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^^^^ That is weird, but could be worse. I've had dealers refuse or demand 100% deposits before doing so. gently caress that. Ramrod Hotshot posted:
This is the dealer saying "we have poo poo cars, don't buy from us."
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2012 06:52 |
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Sub Par posted:
Get a 2005+ Outback over a pre-2005 OB or a Forester. Much better (more reliable, more refined, safer) and a 2005 should be in your price range. A 2005 Legacy 2.5i wagon is well in your price range, but they are rare and probably do everything you want (the Legacy and OB are the same car, except for the lift on the OB). I'd much rather have a 100k+mi 2005 than an 80k -2004 or Forester. As you approach 100k mi, think about the timing belt. It is due every 105k mi and costs $800ish if you don't DIY. Rav4 is a snoozemobile and the highlander is a lifted camry. Boring. Extended warranties suck. If you're buying a car where it would pay off, you shouldn't buy that car. Sups posted:Proposed Budget: 12,000-17,000 nm fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jul 25, 2012 |
# ¿ Jul 25, 2012 02:31 |
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Falcon2001 posted:Bringing this quote back up, as I actually was heavily considering a Veloster Turbo or a Cooper S recently, but I live in Seattle (which is very, very hilly) and drive in traffic a lot, so I'm not too inclined to pick up a manual. However, I had been told that getting a small engine with a turbo on it was a fantastic way of solving the 'fuel efficiency with power when you need it' problem. (I have a very short merge onto the freeway, my biggest problem back when I was driving my '93 civic) Is that just a hopeless dream and should I just go with one of the various 120-hp econocars? Manuals in hills and/or traffic isn't the problem people would have you believe. I smoked my clutch a few times in SF early on, but I have it down now and my clutch still has quite a bit of life.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2012 05:31 |
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Chin Strap posted:Proposed Budget: $3-5k Get the best condition, newest Ford Ranger (or Mazda B series, same truck), you can get.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2012 20:39 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Proposed Budget: 10K or less Or you could track down the elusive e36 325i (not ix) manual wagon. Or you could do something crazy and get Buick Roadmaster with an LT1. Boats can be fun. As for MBZ, I never heard as many bad things about the E-classes in the terrible era as C-classes and others. (Or you could just buy a Subaru. All the cool kids are doing it.) Honestly, unless it is an outback, there's a decent chance you'll have to road trip or buy a ticket for a wagon, particularly with a stick and not FWD. I had to go to Utah, that is where all the manual station wagons live for some reason. RushMix posted:Proposed Budget: 4K down payment, ~350 /mo a shameful boehner posted:Proposed Budget: $15-20k (trade in value + 3-4k down) The Kia Optima is basically the same thing, though I've not driven one. They'll leave the showroom for about $20k speced near base (which is still nice), but if you're doing a loan, you'll get a much better rate on a new car than a used one and should likely offset the difference. jonathan posted:Proposed Budget: 15,000 - 20,000 Volkswagen Phaeton. In 2004 it really was the best sedan in the class. Shares a platform with the Bentley Continental, and if you want gizmos, it has them. First car with 4-zone climate. Optional adjustable rear seat. Amazingly comfortable. Don't get the W12 unless you didn't mention reliability because you're a master mechanic with a professional garage and has the special tools for a W12 (This is important. You apparently need some fancy engine tray if you what to do a lot of repairs unless you want to physically lift the massive rear end engine out of the bay). The V8 isn't so special, but that means someone knows how to fix it and doesn't require fancy tools (for a VAG product) Seriously, if you're not scared of a repair bill, this is your car. Also, the D2 (-2002) Audi S8. The G8 GT is the sane suggestion. That or a last gen Infiniti M35/45. Probably the most reliable car in the class (at least the 35, don't have info on the v8) and deprecation has hit them like rocks. nm fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Aug 23, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 23, 2012 06:06 |
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Throatwarbler posted:Know your AI posters. It does need a bunch of special tools apparently though. They are such cool cars though. nm fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Aug 23, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 23, 2012 07:38 |
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jonathan posted:Thanks a bunch for all those suggestions. I will research all of these. As I am stuck at a drilling rig probably for the next 24 hours, my internet connection is pretty poor. The Infinity m35/45. Is that similar to a g35 4 door or larger ? The g35 while nice, is a bit small. Quite a it larger. A 5 series competitor, but a bit bigger inside. I fit better in the back than in a SWB A8.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2012 16:04 |
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jonathan posted:That phaeton is neat. The exterior styling is somewhat bland, and I cringe at a navigation/ media center from 2004. I emailed to ask what engine is in that Calgary one. It has a 24 gal tank. EPA says V8 14/16/21 W12 11/13/17
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2012 23:23 |
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BeastOfExmoor posted:So, I will at some point in the not-to-distant future be looking for a car to replace my '99 Corolla. I hadn't really considered a Prius since I wanted a hatchback (or ideally wagon) but after reading the comments in this thread and looking at the used Prius prices I'm seriously considering it. Reading some of the reviews, they're quite polarizing. Obviously the Prius wasn't made to run laps at Laguna Seca, but is the driving experience as bad as they make it seem? Coming from my current "driving appliance" (which is at least manual transmission) would I notice a huge downgrade? It will drive pretty much like a 99 Corolla.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2012 19:31 |
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BeastOfExmoor posted:In a way, I suppose. It's somewhere between a hatchback and a sedan since it doesn't have the full space extending all the way to the rear door. I haven't really played around with a Prius to see how much that slanted rear door inhibits space so maybe it's not bad. The prius is pretty big in the cargo area. If you can put the rear seats down, it is pretty good. I think you just need to test drive one. Note that you can rent one for a few days from Hertz, enterprise, Toyota rental cars, etc, which might be the best option. Glorks! posted:Proposed Budget: Variable. Maximum $20,000 if it's worth it. More concerned about monthly payments (EDIT: Yes, I know. But I've been un/underemployed for 6 years. I don't have a savings, and I need a vehicle.) -- starting a new career with a lot of job security. Have you considered hatchbacks and small wagons? That would give you more bang for the buck and would likely be more fun to drive/ Depending on price, I'd look at the Mazda 3 (maybe a Mazdaspeed) or even a fit (the Internet says they fit a cello). nm fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 26, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 26, 2012 19:50 |
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Agronox posted:Not really; assuming he has a decent down payment, a reliable car is just one of those things you have to get when you have a real job. You can blow way less than 20k and have a reliable car. Jobs, especially new jobs, don't last forever, particularly in this economy. Even when it has a "lot of job security" I'd want to get out of the first year before I'm getting a sizable car payment. A used mid-2000s Mazda 3 hatch will be reliable and save him 10 grand.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2012 23:53 |
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jonathan posted:I specifically want an auto, I have an 18 speed manual at work and it gets tiring. Also I asked for other cars to consider, and most of those cars other than the phaeton don't meet the requirements. IE big, comfy and lots of horsepower. A 5 series BMW doesn't have much room. I'm 6'2" and my girlfriend is 5'10", so to fit more than 2 people comfortably requires a decent size rear seat. Check out the M35. I can sit in the front (6'4") and my brother (6'1") can sit in the back
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2012 01:40 |
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^^^ yeah, the ranger is basically the solution to all cheap small truck problems. They made a million of them and they are cheap and durable. jonathan posted:Is the difference between the m35 and 45 engine only ? Its unclear from wikipedia. Photos of the 35 interior seem to have woodgrain, while the 45 has some sort of brushed aluminum look. You could get wood or brushed AL in both cars. Early on the AWD was wood only, but that may have changed. The M45 might have had some premium options only, but the interior size is identical. Throatwarbler posted:So they actually managed to make a car *entirely out of aluminum* that still turns into a pile of oxidation barely out of warranty. nm fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Aug 29, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 29, 2012 02:27 |
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The Taurus almost certainly has a dead AT. A common problem. The good thing is that a used transmission is extremely cheap if you do the install yourself. I would never spend more than $1000 for a 91 tercel.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 04:12 |
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Uncle Jam posted:They design parts from the ground up with a certain lifetime fluid in mind. They'll send that fluid out to our really far the gently caress out research projects and get really angry if we don't use it for concepts that are 20 years out. The amount of reliability testing they do with those fluids is jawdropping. It depends. VW/Audi said that the fill on the ATs on the B5 Passat and A4 was "lifetime." ZF disagreed and recommended 60k mi. The fluid manufacturer said not over 75k mi. Now we have VWs making GBS threads transmissions at 150k or so (admittedly VW and Audi probably didn't expect the cars to last past 100k mi).
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# ¿ Sep 7, 2012 02:49 |
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Geckoagua posted:I agree, it's a pretty crap situation. The other insurance company is covering the rental until monday, but I really dislike having to pay out of pocket for something with zero return. In my brilliance I never took the rental clause on my insurance so I can't really use that option. I'm thinking I will check out several places over the weekend, if I simply don't find anything I'm satisfied with I'll extend, but I'd rather not. FYI, if you ask you can probably get the insurance company rate on your rental car. It can be like $10/day for a mid-size.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2012 03:42 |
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Every one wishes they could forget about the aveo.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2012 20:18 |
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leica posted:What the hell do hubcaps have to do with anything? Looks like a good deal to me. I will note that when I googled the vin, it came up with some references to salvage auctions. I might wonder if there's been a title washing. Missing hubcaps could mean nothing or could mean the OEM wheels/hubcaps were damaged in an accident. The price isn't that low, so not enough to trigger the too good to be true alarms, which may be the goal. That said, I'd get it PPIed by a reputable shop and tell them you suspect accident damage (I might even take it to a body shop) so they look for that. If it checks out, no reason to buy it except that corollas are boring as hell.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2012 22:34 |
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leica posted:I highly doubt that, if they went through the trouble of trying to hide an accident, you don't think they'd just buy new hub caps for it? Also how the hell would all four of them get damaged at once? It's just a look really, lots of people like the way black steelies look better than the lovely hub caps, I for one agree. An accident can damage 2 alloys easy. OEM alloys are extremely expensive, cheaper to just go to $50 steelies. But yeah, as I said it can mean nothing, I'd rely on a PPI, not wheels.
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# ¿ Sep 10, 2012 03:47 |
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priznat posted:In case of BMW wagon trade up: I'd want something that is fun to drive but also practical. Another RWD wagon would be ideal but BMW has lost the plot I feel. Not a fan of the E91s. I'm not opposed to going AWD either or a really nicely driving FWD. I've been burned by Audi mechanical failures in the past so they're not an option. I'm kind of interested by the look of the Kia Sportage and curious to find out how the SX drives with the turbo engine. Probably high with annoying body roll, though. Price range: $25-35k as well. Honestly if you want a wagon that isn't a $70 Cadillac or $100k Mercedes, there isn't much new or even newish. I have friends whould would kill for your car. The Legacy GT was available in Canada with a stick until like 2007-2008, but it will be fairly rare. Also, the EJ25 turbo isn't without issues. Honestly I'd keep the BMW and trade-in the Nissan. The SUV market has gotten somewhat better.
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2012 06:38 |
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Throatwarbler posted:You can import a Legacy from the US with very little hassle, the original US warranty still applies too. The Legacy/Outback/Tribeca are all made in the US so there is no additional tax on them compared to an Impreza or German car. There was a period when everyone was importing Spec-Bs like crazy, I know a group buy on one toronto forum that ended up getting like 20-390 cars from a single NY Subaru dealer. Mostly high-trim stuff like 6 cylinder Outbacks and Tribecas too.
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# ¿ Sep 13, 2012 03:06 |
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Rhyno posted:I'm not that stupid. Even though that is the less troubling transverse motor, never let non synthetic oil anywhere near it.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2012 00:48 |
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Throatwarbler posted:"Well after"? Wasn't it just one year? The US market is much, much larger than Canada's where Subaru only sells 20k cars per year. For pretty much for anything other than a Dodge Caravan you're going to find more/better selection in the US. Thought the lgt wagon made it to 2007 or 2008 up there? We only got a 2005 in the US. We have more of them in total possily, but way too many people.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2012 00:50 |
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Throatwarbler posted:It's 2007 in the US. I don't know what year they kept it for in Canada, I can't find any for sale in Canada anyway, but 2009 was the last year for the body style world wide.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2012 11:53 |
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LittlePea posted:
Mileage is less meaningful that it used to be. However, if you want 10 years off of it, I'd aim for under about 120k mi or so, too keep you under about 250,000mi at the end. Many reliable modern cars will run into the mid-200s. That said, if you're financing, very few companies will give you a good deal on financing for a car with over 100kmi. Also, note that with current used car pricing being fairly high, with much, much lower rates on new cars (often 0% or nearby), it might not cost much to go new (and you'll get a full warranty). Also, don't look at payments.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2012 01:51 |
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LittlePea posted:Thanks for the advice although I'm not sure what you mean by, "don't look at payments." I'm not sure how I wouldn't need to look at payments because if I'm having to pay $400-500 monthly, that would be a bit too steep for where I am financially and I want to make sure I can afford it. There is a huge difference between 300/mo for 24mo and 300/mo for 60mo. Further, it allows the dealer to gently caress you over. If you're focused on the monthly payment, they will focus on that too. Thousands of dollars over the life of the loan are mere tens of dollars monthly, yet, that all that adds up. It gives them more flexibility to gently caress you on the trade and on stupid options.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2012 02:44 |
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Turd Nelson posted:Proposed Budget: $8k - 10k I have a hard time recommending a subaru for you. The EJ255/2557 (turbo 2.5) have documented piston issues that have been unresolved. The fix is forged pistons, but that isn't exactly a solution until you blow them up. The NA 2.5s are slow. Both the NA impreza and legacy can be fun cars to drive, but they're slow as hell. That said a 2005+ NA subaru will be extremely reliable and low on maintenance. BMW has its own issues. Bad cooling systems. Expensive parts. I don't want a $10,000 BMW if low cost to own is a major concern. (Though they're not that terrible). The Mazda 3 is what I'd recommend. They're pretty reliable and the 2.5 has some grunt, though not that fast. Fun to drive. $10k sneaks you into 2005-2006 Mustang GTs too. They technically have seating for 3 if you have a short person. I know you nixed the Civic, but they're actually fairly good handling cars. Before the current generation they had some of the most sophisticated suspensions around. The Si, which is what I would have recommended though is a bit out of your price range though. How do you define peppy acceleration? nm fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Sep 16, 2012 |
# ¿ Sep 16, 2012 04:42 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 03:26 |
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Turd Nelson posted:While I don't want to admit it, I know you're right about BMWs and Subarus. I'm in the process of selling my parent's 98' outback and it's excruciatingly slow to get it up to freeway speeds. However, I will have to say that we have a mechanic who does subaru repairs for stupid-cheap prices. But yeah, I think the Mazda 3 sounds right. Hatch with a stick shift, ideally before redesign (just based on looks).
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2012 05:31 |