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Deteriorata posted:I don't know just how close to a hot hatch you're leaning, but there are some cars in the CUV category that might be good. In particular, the 2013-15 X1 is really just an E90 wagon with a slight lift. You can even get one with the engine from the 335i.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2017 01:19 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 12:00 |
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Jiminy Christmas! Shoes! posted:Does this chart reflect reality? It's not a bad overall picture. While there are definitely issues with CR's reliability data, aggregating it with other sources does paint a picture of FCA still having real troubles with reliability. Off the top of my head, there's the FCA/ZF 9-speed being a piece of poo poo prior to the Pacifica, transmission failures and electrical/radio problems in the Grand Cherokee, the diesels exploding around the 20K mile mark. All this being said, I'd take the risk on a new Pacifica. It's actually good, Chrysler has sorted out the 9-speed for this application, and pricing has adjusted to significantly undercut the Japanese vans in the real world.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2017 20:53 |
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FileNotFound posted:We'll start with the factual easy to prove stuff first - a 2017 Kia Optima is 12-15k - yes you will need to drop down 1 year for an Accord or a Mazda6, but if you're buying used there is really not much difference between a 2017 or a 2016, or even a 2015 for that matter... Those listings are cherry picked. Here's the national average prices for 3 year old midsize sedans, via CarGurus:
And the Optima and Sonata are pretty good cars, especially if you're shopping used. Overall they're well-rounded cars, you can get great deals on them because their reputation hasn't caught up to reality, and reliability is just a notch below Honda and Toyota.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2018 19:00 |
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FileNotFound posted:You can get great deals on them because they are pieces of loving poo poo: I have never heard of this site before you brought it up. There's having problems with how Consumer Reports, TrueDelta, JD Power collect their data, and then there's having data that is a total outlier. That site's data also suggests that a Chrysler Sebring is more reliable than a Mazda 6, and a Chrysler Cirrus is more reliable than a Honda Accord. Really?
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2018 22:24 |
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Dr. Gitmo Moneyson posted:Anybody know some good resources for reviews and specs on specific cars? Any particular YouTube channels or other websites I should check out? I’ve read the manufacturer sites, but I’m having a hard time remembering a lot of the stuff I saw on them, and I’m trying to learn enough about these cars to be able to sell them. Alex Dykes’s YouTube channel does detailed walkthroughs of cars, and most videos even have comparisons to similar models. Consumer Reports’s actual reviews are the most useful written resource, but CR is paywalled and have conservative tendencies w.r.t safety features, infotainment systems. Edmunds is similar to CR but more neutral and with less detail. Car and Driver’s reviews are also useful, with a strong driving enthusiast bias.
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# ¿ Feb 16, 2018 23:25 |
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Sharparoni posted:Moving to a new job that will require me to drive rather than rely on public transportation as I have done for years, so in time I will be looking for a more commuter friendly car than my wife and I's Edge. Accord Touring would be my recommendation here. Since you like Fords, the Fusion still holds up but does show its age, and real-world fuel economy is poor for the segment. For compacts, I'd recommend the Civic, Mazda 3, and VW Golf. The best compact crossovers are the CR-V and Mazda CX-5. You'll get a better deal if you go for a car instead of a crossover, because everyone is ditching their cars for crossovers right now. Your Loyal Vizier posted:I agree with all these sentiments and read them to her, to very little effect The only thing you could really do is wave around fuel costs (16-17l/100km at best), and crash tests of SUVs and trucks from the period. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLm8Lo2oylw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix-JjIRWOBU If her heart is truly set on an SUV, Nissan Pathfinders don't seem to carry the same tax that 4Runners of the same era do, and are more maneuverable than a Tahoe/Yukon. Maybe a '95-'01 V8 Explorer could do too.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2018 18:32 |
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CR said that infotainment was why the CX-9's reliability scores tanked. Even with that in mind, their advice was "well, if you like the car enough, go for it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯" FWIW C&D noted infotainment problems with their long-term 2016 CX-9 as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8YVRMm-nSQ&t=375s
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2018 03:41 |
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TheReverend posted:My office buddy has a 6 and that's why I haven't considered them. Everyone makes jokes that we're "work husbands" to each other. tbh if you didn't like a top-trim Accord, you probably won't like a top-trim 6 In a similar vein to the Stinger, the Charger Scat Pack is right there at $40K. While there is the specter of "lol FCA reliability", the Charger is a sorted-out car on that front. The Genesis G70 3.3TT, a sister to the Kia Stinger, is another great option. The base trim with the 3.3TT in the G70 is a few grand more than the base Stinger GT trim, but if you want certain luxury options like adaptive cruise, a sunroof, or premium audio on the Stinger, both cars are priced similarly. Some wildcards in used luxury options. Lightly used Infiniti Q50 Red Sports go for under $40K, but you might find the steering funky, and the infotainment is dated. You can avoid the funky steering on the detuned 300 HP versions, but those might not be quick enough for your tastes. The outgoing generation BMW 3-series seems to be much improved in reliability, but long-term German maintenance costs might scare you from the jump.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2018 04:01 |
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Guinness posted:Even if the quality has improved by leaps and bounds, VW still does stupid poo poo like plastic oil pans, though. Reliability seems to be fine on the MQB vehicles, and you probably would've heard of big problems by now considering that Mk7 Golfs are one of AI's most popular new cars Zwingley posted:Understandable, but I'm pretty confident the CUV will pay dividends enough outside my daily commute. The chorus is really asking you to not dismiss sedans. There are definitely valid reasons to buy a crossover: available AWD, more usable cargo space, higher seating position. But modern sedans have virtues of their own. The Camry and Accord have interior room that used to be seen only in large sedans. On the highway, a midsize sedan will be quieter, have a better ride, and be cheaper to run. For example: a Camry XLE that meets your requirements gets 39 MPG highway. Meanwhile a 1.5T CR-V will get 33 MPG. Assuming 25K highway miles a year with $3/gal gas, you save $350/year with the Camry over the CR-V. And the CR-V is the best example for fuel economy. A Mazda CX-5, thread favorite, will get 31 MPG, putting you at $500/year savings in the Camry. Anyways, no matter what vehicle you choose, make sure that you're comfortable. What annoys you on a test drive will only get worse considering the time you'll be spending in the vehicle. Other notes: if you're considering a RAV4, I'd recommend only looking at the 2019s. The other Toyotas released in the last year on the same platform as the 2019 RAV4 have been much improved over their predecessors. Do not buy a leftover 2018 CR-V; there is a nasty problem where gas mixes with oil in the turbo CR-Vs. Honda says the problem will be fixed on the 2019 models.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2018 01:18 |
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Sits on Pilster posted:Does the Camry hybrid really get 50 mpg? Like in the real world. Those LE Hybrids get 46 on Fuelly. That's still better than a Gen 2 Prius, and there's no cargo or power sacrifices for going with the hybrid
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2018 05:49 |
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ScooterMcTiny posted:How is the Honda/Toyota adaptive cruise control? That truly is my #1 priority, and it really kills on the Volvo. The version of ACC in the Pilot is not stop-and-go, and just not very good. The Highlander's ACC is an older system which doesn't do stop-and-go. If your heart is set on an XC90, I'd only consider a 2018, or a lease. Everything was brand new on the XC90, which led to the 2016 and 2017 models being beta products. CR ratings and owners' forums report loads of issues: leaky sunroof, failing air suspension, brake problems, general fit and finish issues. Again, reliability looks better on the 2018 and newer XC90s, but that could also just be a function of time. I'll also note that Ford's latest ACC on the refreshed Edge does include stop-and-go and lane-centering steering, and will show up on the new Explorer. Audi's Traffic Jam Assist can work too if you can find a Q5 or Q7 within budget.
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# ¿ Apr 8, 2019 05:13 |
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Shine posted:Curiosity, what are good options if I pick bank-vault-quiet and reliable? Eventually I'll stop being a cheap rear end and replace my early 2000s Matrix with something cushy. At 300K miles, the only of those three traits it offers is reliability. We recently rented a Camry for a 20-hour drive (mostly in one day), and it was like riding on a cloud in comparison. The nicest Lexus LS you can afford.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2019 05:34 |
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FilthyImp posted:Help! My wife thinks we need a minivan -- she's sick of stuff piling up in our cars and hates that the back seats are just CHILD CAR SEAT and bits of cheerios. The Pacifica Hybrid, while great, has typical Chrysler reliability. A RAV4 Hybrid will get 40 MPG. There will probably be a new Highlander Hybrid sometime later this year, and the 2020 Ford Escape will be available as either a traditional hybrid, or a PHEV
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2019 22:51 |
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Pretty rad dad pad posted:[critique] my takes about big fat american cars because I feel like I'm a reasonable use case Go with the current-gen Impala with the V6. It's a great car with solid reliability. Just make sure you're not buying an Impala Limited, which was the last-gen Impala that GM kept selling new to fleets. As far as comments on the rest, I'd say the 300 and Charger are reliable enough if you really like the car. The Avalon isn't worth the Toyota Tax. And an option not on your list worth looking into is the first-gen Hyundai Genesis, but avoid the V8 in the 2011 and 2012 models.
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# ¿ May 4, 2019 14:36 |
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Uthor posted:One thing, I believe that the full ten year warranty doesn't transfer upon resale? Like, the next owner would only get five or something. If you buy a CPO Hyundai/Kia, you get the remainder of 10/100 for powertrain. Otherwise you get the remainder of 5/60.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2019 16:57 |
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zapplez posted:I'd go for an ES instead. The Lexus ES is the official car of Floridian retirees, which is the opposite of stylish As far as new options go, you can get a new Mazda 6 with the turbo engine for under $30K. If you can live with the chrome unibrow, the Accord Hybrid is another great pick. I'd also look into a GTI or a Golf Sportwagen; reliability has been fine on this generation of VWs, and you get a 6-year, 72K mile warranty thanks to Dieselgate. The 2015+ Hyundai Genesis/Genesis G80 is handsome. The current-gen C-Class has been fine past the first model year, and the 2010-16 E-Class has had a solid reliability record. Usual caveats about German maintenance goes here. I'd also look into going a size class up into a GS over an IS for used Lexuses.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2019 16:50 |
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The 9th-gen 2013-17 Accord might just save you from the indignity of having to drive a greyscale blob. This generation of Accord has lots of rear seat legroom for your child seats, and a large trunk. It's economical (29 MPG on Fuelly for the 4-cylinder), dead-reliable, you can get one with a manual, and the 2016-17 Accords have Android Auto available as a factory option.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2019 03:15 |
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TheReverend posted:I test drove a Stinger GT and really liked it but am bummed AF that the cool cruise control stuff is only in GT 2. The Stinger's cousin, the Genesis G70, comes with adaptive cruise standard. But you need to see if the G70's cargo area will work for you. Good luck finding a V6 Camry. The Accord is better here anyways, and the Mazda 6 is still competitive after the turbo and CarPlay/AA support was added. I'll throw in Charger Scat Pack as a wildcard since you can get them for under $40K with adaptive cruise today.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2019 05:39 |
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A quick AutoTrader search in Florida indicates that you can get a 2016+ F-150 with the 2.7TT right around $30K. This would be my vote unless the better maneuverability of the midsize trucks is a hard requirement. 2016 brings you Android Auto and CarPlay, and you won't get the first-year production bugs. The 2.7TT's real-world fuel economy is very competitive with the midsizers. Combined MPG on Fuelly is 18 for the 2.7 F-150s, and here's a thread that indicates 22-23 MPG highway. The F-150 is a nicer vehicle to live with overall. I sat in the top-trim Ranger recently, and the interior felt cheaper than the volume XLT trim F-150. The interior of the F-150 is well-designed, with lots of interior storage and good ergonomics. It also has a massive rear legroom advantage for passengers, and/or car seats. Finally, the F-150 will have more towing and payload headroom than the midsizers.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2019 18:06 |
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If you can find a used Lexus GS-F, they are around $50K now. Keyword being "can." Other options at the Lexus dealership are the nicest LS460 you can find, or a new Lexus ES hybrid. I would look into the latter two options if I were doing 25K miles per year, old person stigma be damned.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2020 23:23 |
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Hatch. Something like this. Looking at Edmunds, the Si will give you the following over a Sport hatch: limited-slip differential, adaptive dampers, bigger brakes, sport seats that are also heated, dual-zone auto climate control, a sunroof, and the premium stereo from the Touring sedan. A Civic is also one of those cars where the depreciation curve makes more sense to buy new, because you just aren't saving that much with a lightly used one. Civic Sis in particular have a very friendly depreciation curve that's closer to a Wrangler or 4Runner than any car.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2020 21:54 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:On the Odyssey, are there any documented reliability issues with the redesign? Automakers are increasingly just iterating on existing designs, so a new model might not have all that much that's mechanically different from it's predecessors. The first MY of the new Odyssey rated as badly as the Pacifica in Consumer Reports' reliability surveys. Weird, because the Pilot and Ridgeline on the same platform have graded out okay (though not to the old Honda standard.)
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2020 01:32 |
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khysanth posted:Proposed Budget: 15k The most important thing for you to do is to sit in the cars on your list to see if you're comfortable. My suggestions would be a Ford Fusion Hybrid or Fusion Energi (2014 to present), the latter of which is a plug-in hybrid. If that's too big for you, perhaps a last-gen Mazda 3 (2013 to 2018) would be a good option. Henrik Zetterberg posted:Been dumping too much repair money into our 2006 Odyssey these past few years, so looking for recommendations. If you can find one that isn't a former rental, a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica can be had for $25-30K. A 2018 will have CarPlay, and first-year production bugs worked out. Chrysler has also announced an AWD Pacifica for the 2021MY if you're willing to wait, and that could sneak into the top end of your budget.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2020 18:55 |
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Cascadia Pirate posted:I have a friend looking at lightly used Konas. Are there any other models he should shop them against? I feel like Crosstreks are probably going to be more expensive but I will have him look at those. Is Nissan Rouge a good choice as well? CX-3? While the Kona and the Crosstrek are the two mainstream subcompact SUVs I don't hate, you should redirect your friend into a compact SUV. Subcompact SUVs by and large are penalty boxes. They're genuinely slow, cramped, stiff-riding, and the fuel economy is only marginally better than a compact SUV. Your friend should look at Mazda CX-5s and Ford Escapes as first and second choices respectively. A regular hatchback like a Mazda 3 would also be better than a subcompact SUV. Nitrox posted:To piggyback on that question, how are the Nissan small SUVs in general? I remember the older rouges having transmission issues, did that ever improve? CR's data doesn't instill confidence that the Nissan CVT will last beyond the powertrain warranty period. Even then, the product is still mediocre.
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2020 15:27 |
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Good list. Since you have sedans on the list, I'll focus on those as you'll get more for your money in a sedan than an SUV. Spend the money that you're saving there on a set of winter tires for your car. You can definitely get a new Accord or Mazda6 with the big motor into your budget if you can live with cloth seats. It may be possible to squeeze the leather trims into your budget. The Accord's styling would be worth dealing with for the big trunk and ample rear legroom for today's Nimitz-class child seats. The new Hyundai Sonata will satisfy your tech wants, but you may find the performance lacking since Hyundai hasn't released the big motor Sonata yet. If you have to have an SUV, the latest CR-Vs are worth a look. I will throw in the V8 Dodge Charger and Cadillac CTS V-Sport as wildcards. Why settle for a 4-cylinder Korean Dodge Charger when you can have the real thing? The CTS V-Sport is a better sports sedan than the contemporary BMW 5-Series, but the trunk and backseat may be too tight for you, and you will have to spend at least an extra grand to update CUE to be CarPlay-compatible.
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2020 04:58 |
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DreadCthulhu posted:This is an idiotic question, I'm sorry. What's a model that's low maintenance (isn't known for dragging you to the shop regularly), is under $25-30k new, has Car Play, is reasonably sized so that you can park it in the city, and doesn't scream suburban dad? I was thinking either an Accord or a CX-3, maybe a Kona?
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# ¿ May 23, 2020 00:26 |
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Duck Rodgers posted:The job is working for a union, hence the union made requirement. From what I understand, Mexican made cars are hit and miss as some of the unions are essentially management run. So would depend on the union in Mexico. If I had to Buy American, and a pickup truck or a sports car did not fit into my life, I would buy a new Ford Escape Hybrid.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2020 02:02 |
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Duck Rodgers posted:We don't have to buy American, we have to buy union. We would prefer to get a car. As there are significant professional and personal incentives for your partner to buy Union Made, a UAW or UNIFOR-built vehicle is the path of least resistance. Ford, FCA, and GM don't do small cars in the U.S. anymore, so your next best choice is a compact SUV like the Ford Escape built by UAW Local 862. A new Escape Hybrid delivers 41 MPG combined, and is riding on Ford's newest global car platform that the global Focus is also based on. While I haven't driven a new Escape yet, the last-gen Escape drove nicely and did not drive like a truck if that's what you wanna avoid. You also get the cargo versatility of a hatchback which is something you'd like based on your ideas so far. VW Puebla looks to be union so you could buy a Golf?
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2020 21:05 |
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midge posted:Proposed Budget: $10,000 CAD NC1 Miatas should also be in that price range if you're interested and willing to mod. A 2.5 Duratec from a wrecked Fusion bolts right up to the NC for more mid-range torque, and the NC1's wonky 4x4 suspension can be fixed easily these days.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2020 02:11 |
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midge posted:Why the hell you gotta make me start upping the budget? How much of a difference is the ND vs the NB? You can buy 2 nice NBs for the price of a 2016 ND. Daily-driven NDs can be had for closer to $15K USD, with most 2016-17 cars landing in the $15-20K range. I have also noticed how cheap ND1s are while looking at NC2s. Right now I am still leaning NC2, because it's about a $5K jump from an NC2 to an ND1. This is money that could be spent on the following: consumables, track time, driver instruction, or a fully sick sim rig. Also my brain does not like the idea of my second car being better in every way than my daily driver, which I intend to keep if I go Miata.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2020 17:15 |
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gamer roomie is 41 posted:Ooh so many replies already thanks everyone The problem I have with modern minivans is that they are massive vehicles. A Chrysler Pacifica is as long and wide as a Chevy Tahoe, which would make me antsy to park in suburban Florida, let alone the Boston metro area. They are excellent at the job they are optimized for: carrying 6+ people and their gear. But it might be too much car for you if you don't fall into that use case. No one here has mentioned a 2017 to present CX-5 so I will do so now. The CX-5 is just as reliable as a Honda or Toyota, and you will get a nicer CX-5 for the same price because Mazda's reputation among the public isn't as strong as Honda or Toyota's. The CX-5 is also nicer on the inside and nicer to drive than either the Honda or Toyota. The one drawback is that the packaging isn't as efficient as the Honda or Toyota so take your kid stuff with you to make sure everything fits as you'd like it.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2020 18:54 |
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Magnetic North posted:That seems reasonable to me. The EPA's definition of car sizes, which is based off of interior volume, should be irrelevant to you, a normal person. For example, the Bentley Continental, a big 2-door luxury car with a V12 that weighs more than a Ford F-150, is defined as a subcompact car by the EPA. Meanwhile a Honda Civic, a compact car by any normal person's definition, is considered a large car by the EPA. A compact car in the U.S. is a car like a Honda Civic, or a Toyota Corolla. A midsized car in the U.S. is a car as big as a Toyota Camry, or a Honda Accord. A compact car is usually cheaper, better handling, and more fuel-efficient than a midsized car. A midsized car can offer more space, more luxury, and a better ride instead. You sound like a great candidate for the nicest Toyota Prius you can afford. The Prius will allow you to not think about cars for a long time, so you can focus onto things you care about. If the way the Prius drives is too weird for you, a Civic, Corolla, or a Mazda 3 would be a good choice.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2020 01:46 |
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CubicalSucrose posted:Proposed Budget: Under 50k I guess? Less is better. What's really your budget? Unless you just finished up an advanced degree, or are a high earner who is generally oblivious to things outside of their work and their family, it is hard to imagine how you're going from a Grand Marquis with no air conditioning to being able to spend $50K on a car. For 25K highway miles a year, you're gonna want something large with a long wheelbase for a better highway ride, and something quiet. This means the compact cars recommended here (Mazda 3, Prius) won't work for you. If you can find a Cadillac CT6 with Super Cruise, you should get that. Super Cruise is Cadillac's answer to Tesla's Autopilot. It only works on highways, performs about as well as Autopilot while having safeguards in place to make sure you don't watch Harry Potter when driving. If a CT6 has Super Cruise, it will have a display in the steering wheel like this example: As CT6s with Super Cruise can be hard to find, my next suggestion is the nicest Lexus LS460 you can buy. The LS460 will be like your Grand Marquis, but actually good, and extremely reliable. LS460s in great condition can be had for under $30K now, and the early LS460s can be had for $10-$15K.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2020 13:38 |
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KaiserKarl posted:I'm looking at buying a 2019 or 2020 Ram 1500. Mostly for camping, hauling a small boat, small home improvement projects, and skiing if that opens up in the winter. Only leased Audi sedans previously, so first time buyer and first time truck owner. I'm open to new or a year or two old with low milage if I can find a good one. I'm tempted by a new V8 Laramie level II package for the nice interior, etc ($55kish).. but also tempted to go entry level Laramie used ($40kish) so I can pay it off quick and get a summer/commuter car in a couple years. The Ram 1500 is the best American luxury vehicle you can buy, but unfortunately it is built by Fiat Chrysler. Fiat Chrysler cannot figure out how to reliably build a vehicle until it's 6-7 years into production. The Ram 1500 has had major teething issues, which FCA has acknowledged themselves in investor calls. For more evidence, go look at the Edmunds owner reviews for the new Ram. Even Edmunds's own long-term Ram has had a visor fall off. Reliability will still matter even if your vehicle's under warranty, because it means you get to drive a base Dodge Charger while your luxo-truck is in the shop again. If your heart is set on a Ram, lease it. Avoid the diesel. While the 3.0 V6 diesel is mostly redesigned according to VM Motori, I wouldn't touch it for a few years based on the track record of the last-gen EcoDiesel. The last-gen EcoDiesel was exactly as unreliable as you would expect an Italian diesel that was meant to go into a Cadillac passenger car would be. Also FCA had to do some emissions cheating to get it past US regulators, and owners have sworn that the update to make it emissions-complaint ruined their trucks. The Silverado and Sierra have the best powertrains, but you will hate the interior coming from a long line of Audis. The F-150 has better materials quality though it's still very Ford instead of Lincoln.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2020 21:31 |
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KaiserKarl posted:Thank you, very helpful. The Ram was the only truck that seemed to offer a first rate luxury car ride with solid 4x4 truck functionality. I don't really want to daily drive a truck, but also don't want to try and dirt road/heavy snow push a german sedan. You sound like you'd be a lot happier with an SUV than a truck. Your requirements sound like 4x4 first, with respectable towing ability second, and a cargo bed a distant third. The inconvenience of storing or renting a utility trailer for getting oversized items from the home improvement store is outweighed by you not liking pickup trucks in general. You can always attach a box to your roof or hitch for more cargo capacity when camping. Finally, you'll get more for your money with a used SUV compared to a used pickup truck. A Lexus GX might be right up your alley. GXs are Land Cruiser Prados with leather and a V8 for the North American market. A GX usually has a better ownership history, and is in better condition than the equivalent 4Runner. The big downside is the fuel costs, but this sounds like it won't matter to you since it'll be a second vehicle. You can also look at a Jeep Grand Cherokee, which FCA has figured out to build in recent years (now in year 10 of production!) The wildcard is a Porsche Cayenne, or VW Touareg as you're already used to the Volkswagen Group ownership experience. Basticle posted:I'm looking at compact (as opposed to subcompact) hatchbacks or smaller crossovers (since there are only so many hatchback options). AWD is much preferred though not 100% dealbreaker The catch with the special finance deals is usually you can take the finance deal, or the incentives, but not both. For example, Kia is offering 0% APR financing for 72 months on all new 2020 Stingers right now. Kia is also offering $5000 worth of incentives, split up into $3500 retail cash and $1500 trade assist if I were to trade something in. If I were to take the 0% for 72 months financing, Kia would still give me the $1500 trade assist, but I would lose out on the $3500 incentive. I have done some math for you regarding the real fuel costs. It is up to you to decide whether it's worth it. I think the 3 and the Civic Hatch are a cut above everything else you've listed, but the Civic Hatch is just too ugly, so 3 it would be for me.
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2020 02:38 |
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:OK this is for my dad. 2014+ Lexus IS350 F-Sport. If the IS doesn't have enough room for cargo or passengers, then move up to the GS.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2020 18:00 |
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:So the beamer is a bad idea rite? Go for it if he's willing to accept the risk of unexpected four-figure repair bills in exchange for driving a car that is much closer to the bottom of its depreciation curve than say, a 3-5 year old Lexus.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2020 18:41 |
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JimboMaloi posted:My wife’s 06 Civic (bought new) looks like it may have reached the point that it’s not worth repairing, so doing preliminary research in case we need to replace it. Civic Hatch. The Corolla and Mazda 3 hatchbacks don't have the rear seat and cargo room that the Civic does, and the Golf's long-term maintenance and repair costs won't be to your liking. TheWevel posted:How's the reliability on the XC90s? Something about a super and turbocharged engine doesn't sit right with me. Let me put it this way: I have more trust in Fiat Chrysler than any of the modern SPA Volvos.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2020 14:16 |
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JimboMaloi posted:Both, closer to 200mi/mo, dont care about HOV, and yeah manual not in the cards for now. The BFC part of me would get an e-bike if I were only driving 200 miles a month, and rent a car for longer trips, because cars are expensive. Buy a car whenever you move instead of buying the car in anticipation of the move. SouthShoreSamurai posted:Wife is finally on board with ditching the Grand Caravan and replacing it with something that isn't loving awful to drive in every conceivable way. Yay! How important is towing to you, and what would you be towing? If you will be regularly towing near or above the Telluride's 5000 lb tow capacity, I would go with a Chevy Suburban or a Ford Expedition Max. Nothing else combines room for 6 and towing capacity like those two vehicles. You'll pay for it everywhere else: a Telluride gets 22 MPG or 37.5% better fuel economy vs the 16 a Suburban gets in combined real-world driving per Fuelly. Kia has made solid vehicles for over a decade now, and the Telluride is a great vehicle if you can brave your local Kia dealer. Never pay above MSRP. Bring your large adult sons with you to make sure the third row is good enough.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2020 02:24 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 12:00 |
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Hertz is dumping a bunch of 2019 Mustang GT Premium convertibles with 20-30K miles for around $32K near me. As all these Mustangs have the digital cluster, I can infer that Hertz also spec'd the 401A package, meaning these cars cost $50K new. Carvana has also offered me nearly $10K for my 6 year old Kia Optima. Would I lose my license to post in this thread if I took Carvana's money and put it towards one of those Mustangs?
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2020 03:48 |