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redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum
My wife and I have one car, a 10 year old hyundai accent. She uses it for a commute.

It looks like my next job will probably require me to drive (I used public transport for my last job) so it looks like I finally need to buy a car, since I have 2 interviews next week and both are for companies I'd need to drive to if I got the job (I'm using my wife's car for interviews). I might need to buy a car fast, too, I plan on saying to them I'm available to work within a week.

Proposed Budget: $10k give or take a couple
New or Used: Used, IDGAF. For reliability probably certified pre-owned since I'm a rube and don't know cars.
Body Style: seats 4-5, 2-door is fine, compact/midsize is fine.
How will you be using the car?: generally a daily 40ish minute commute and the odd 5 minute shopping drives.
What aspects are most important to you? Riding the clutch of my last car in stop and go traffic hosed up my knee, I want an automatic. I want to be safe-ish in a collision. Decent MPG, reliable enough. I'm not super picky otherwise.

My last car was a Honda and it did ok in a crash although it was totalled. I don't care what it looks like, I want to go from place A to place B. I hate driving. If $10k is ridiculously low, let me know. I'm ok with getting a car with like, 70k miles on it or so. My last one had that amount and it was fine! I'm not used to fancy new car stuff, I don't want satnav or anything like that.

Please give me a couple of options so I can like, have a starting point and do some research?

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redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum

H110Hawk posted:

Get the local ads which will have the $10k used car get-you-on-the-lot special. Bring it with you with the stock number and insist on only seeing that car. Assuming it passes the sniff test they're going to try to add on $5k in poo poo you don't want and are not required to buy. Wife got her honda civic that way, it was a great little car.

Thanks for the quick response! Questions:
-How can I spend 5k extra on a car that already exists and is used? Like they're not going to add any options, it's too late for that right?
-Do I go there with a pre-approved car loan from my bank and avoid using their own car loan? Either way I intend to pay down the car ASAP, but a better loan is always good.
-If a car is 10k will it be certified pre-owned? Is that possible? Does certified pre-owned mean like, they tack on an extra 500 dollars to the price?
-What extra fees should I 'accept', like I heard about a doc fee that can range between like $100 and $350? For them registering the sale at the DMV or something?

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum

H110Hawk posted:

-Oh they will bolt on $5k in bullshit. Have no fear. I got taken for this ride in 2003, but I was a sucker. Just calmly remind them you want to pay $9999 for the car, as advertised. Otherwise, you are on the lot and for $15k you can likely get a CPO Honda Civic if the CPO is worth it to you.

-Loans don't matter if you intend to pay it off. You can do that if you want, I didn't. You might wind up paying like $50-100 in interest waiting for the first bill to come in the mail.

-No, it won't be CPO. CPO is a warranty like anything else and will cost a few grand.

-Look up if your state has a doc fee: http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html In CA it's $80. If it's not regulated it's negotiable. They're going to try to make up margin here.

Thanks for that!

-If I get a 10k car should I expect for them to let me take it to the mechanic for an inspection, or not?
-And if I do get a 10k car, is it sort of like, 'expected' that I might need to take it in and get a bit of work done on it?
-I'm in California (San Jose), so the doc fee is 80bux. And I refuse all other fees.

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum

nm posted:

You may wish to start paying attention to driving before upgrading your 3600lb killing machine to a 6000lb one.

Lots of parking spaces assume that the front part of your car will go over the sidewalk rather than the front of your car hitting the sidewalk. Low cars suck when you're trying to park and you gently caress up the front because you are used to driving any other kind of normal car. Also some have those 'stoppers' that your wheels are supposed to hit so you know when to stop. I used to hit those with the front of my car too.

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum

100% Dundee posted:

I think the point he was making is that it's probably better to just learn where the front of your car is so you don't have to use the parking blocks or drive up on the curb. What do you guys who don't know how to park do when you parallel park? Just stop when you bounce off the car in front of you?

Parking blocks are for your wheels. They're put in, in such a way that the blocks are before the end of the parking space, normally like 2-3 feet away from the end. If the front of your car hits them, then the parking space is shorter than it should be and it sucks. I don't see why this would make anyone a bad driver. It's a reason not to get a super low car.

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