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Can I leverage being able to pay for a new-ish car up front into paying less for it (aside from lack of interest)? If so, how? I'm not buying a new car, but I'm going to help my mother decide on one, and I'm pretty sure this is the first time in her life she's been able to do that too. edit: Also, there was a hailstorm recently. How would we find which dealerships have hail-damaged cars, other than driving to them? It's an option, but we'd rather not drive an hour to a dealership a few towns away to find out they don't have anything we're looking for. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Sep 30, 2012 |
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Sep 30, 2012 19:16
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Dealers make money on financing, so no, they actually dislike paying cash up front. Yes, I know, BHPH lots take more risks on who they sell to, they need to ask higher rates to make it profitable, I'm still not paying an extra thousand dollars on my 10-year old used car. The second part was as much not wanting to dig up every single dealership in the entire Front Range Urban Corridor as not wanting to drive without knowing. I worded it poorly. I was hoping there was some sort of site like Autotrader or something dealerships use to get rid of damaged merchandise like that. edit: I just wanted to clarify I'm not arguing that you should get a car cheaper if you pay up front. I wasn't sure why you would, since either way they're getting paid in full up front, but I keep hearing people say that you can usually get a cash discount on big things. I thought I may as well ask. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Oct 1, 2012 |
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Oct 1, 2012 03:36
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I'm 22, and I might have to become financially independent from my parents soon. I assume this is going to involve getting my own insurance, too. How do I avoid getting completely hosed as a <25 year old man? Currently I have a '99 Subaru.
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Jun 13, 2013 05:17
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I've never bought a car before. I have $3000 I can put down on it, I'm looking at cars from $5000-7000 all in, my credit score is around 660-680. Is that likely to work? Do I give the down payment to the lender or the dealership? I am pretty sure all $3000 needs to be on the down payment, it's a green car incentive from my work. I'm probably going to have more questions once I figure out exactly what cars I'm looking at.
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Jun 22, 2017 17:18
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Yeah, it's mostly hybrids, but not even all hybrids. 9+ on the GHG scale. It looks like there are some Camry hybrids a bit above $7000, I might be able to negotiate it down. It looks like maybe 20% is the standard for a down payment, which means I could get a $15,000 car, but gently caress that. My car was paid off in '11, my wife's was inherited when her grandmother died. I've got enough debt without adding $12,000. I'll make a full post, I guess I was waiting on clarification on what qualified, but I know now.
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Jun 22, 2017 18:56
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I'm looking at 07-09 Camry hybrids. Between 87 and 150k miles (I know, a big range). Were there any big problems with those years to watch out for? Dealers aren't going to keep the maintenance records of the PO, are they?
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Jul 20, 2017 20:56
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:eventually there's a very small chance that the hybrid battery will require replacement, other than that you're good 2 go That's what I like to hear. Any significant differences between the years? The '07s are predictably cheaper than the'09s. There's an '09 with 87k and minor hail damage asking $7500, but unless I can get that way down or there's a major difference I'll probably go for something cheaper.
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Jul 20, 2017 22:20
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Thanks. For the actual financing part, am I likely to get the best terms at the credit union I already bank with, or should I shop around? Also in case I'm buying from a private party, I've got a weird question I hope I can explain. I get reimbursed $3000 for buying a Camry Hybrid (among others), but I don't have $3000 to put down initially. Would a CU offer me better rates on a given size of loan if I signed an agreement I would pay X dollars by date Y? Or is that not something they do? The benefits admin says some dealerships will sell on the contingency you bring the last 3000 in within a week.
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Jul 20, 2017 23:42
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'm familiar with your situation from BFC and I have to say: if you don't have 3k in liquid funds that allows you to float that money until you receive reimbursement you should absolutely not buy that car. I get what you're saying, and I want to agree with you. But my car feels shakier and shakier every passing day. At 600 miles a week it's not going to be long until it needs a new water pump, a new timing belt, and it will pretty much be scrap. Really what I need is to move down there so my car can survive longer and I'm not spending $300 per month on gas, but the only way to do that any time soon would be to go underwater by getting a loan for the full cost and spending the $3000 on the cost of moving. Don't have a heart attack, I'm not doing it. E: Actually I just did the math, at this rate my car won't hit 240 for another year. So unless something blows up maybe I don't need a new car. If I can stop being so BWM maybe I can save one of September's paychecks and get most of the way there that way. Big if. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jul 21, 2017 |
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Jul 21, 2017 04:06
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I'm not sure about the last part, though. Granted I should probably have been more of my car hypochondriac self, but I went from "car's running a little hot" to "Jesus Christ please let me limp this to the mechanic before this aluminum block overheats" within a day a few months ago. I wouldn't be nearly as worried if I weren't driving about 45 miles of interstate each way. I think you know this from the IT threads, but I'm driving FoCo to Interlocken for work. Thinking about it more objectively, though, I might not be treating my car entirely fair right now. That radiator has been the only actual failure, there have just been a couple things that seemed like they were failures that ended up being nothing. E: Wait, by "need a new car" did you mean a new new car or a used new car? I'm definitely not looking at new new.
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Jul 21, 2017 05:30
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Sits on Pilster posted:What other cars would entitle you to the $3000 refund? That cost or less? Prius, Civic Hybrid, CNG Civic, old Insight (lol), Yaris. Basically it has to have a 9 or 10 on the greenhouse gas rating the EPA assigns. spog posted:I had to read through your post history That was four years ago now. I've been living on my own since 2014. I actually do have a very good mechanic. I need to take it in for an oil change soon. Maybe it's time to ask for them to do an inspection again like you said.
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Jul 21, 2017 13:35
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spog posted:Bloody hell, your whole independent adult life so far, encapsulated by this thread. I've been lurking the forums since before I turned 18. Kill me. Sits on Pilster posted:Do you really need a midsized car? I'd bet a compact or subcompact would be less up front. And we all know the Prius is bullet proof, but you can probably get a very reliable vehicle for a lot less money if you skip the hybrid altogether. No idea if the Yaris is reliable but if it is and you don't need a Camry sized car, I'd be looking at that in your situation. I would be more inclined to get a Civic Hybrid than a Prius. The Prius carries a lot of cultural baggage both positive and negative that I don't want to touch with a 10 foot pole. I could get one of either for approximately $3k, which would mean no actual payments. I wouldn't feel comfortable driving either of them on the interstate, though. My Subaru isn't fast, but it's still significantly faster than either of those. It also needs to be an automatic because I'm tired of having to drive everywhere. My wife is afraid of stalling out on the road and getting in a crash. I think I will just stick with the Subaru until it either dies or gets towards needing $3-4k of work. I'll put the $200 or whatever I would be paying a month for a loan into moving, at which point my car getting old won't even matter so much. Then when (if) we get more stable I can start looking at getting something to replace one of our cars.
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Jul 22, 2017 05:30
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ShadeofBlue posted:If you're going to get a hybrid, it seems silly not to get a Prius, but I guess I don't know that much about non-Prius hybrids, so maybe there's a reason to? Is your wife afraid of stalling a manual while the car is moving? That's... really hard to do. I feel like the worst thing that can happen if you stall a manual is that the guy behind you rear ends you a bit. Or just laughs at you. I've told her that you only really stall when starting. She still doesn't want to do it, maybe she's afraid of getting honked at for stopping traffic. It's not so much a matter of going 80 as it is getting up to 80 before someone hits you when you're stuck behind someone doing 60 in a 75, which happens all the goddamn time. Also on ramps. I drove an early '00s Civic Hybrid, it was so bad trying to get up to speed before merging in. Maybe they got better, I would guess it was an '04-06, I drove it back in '08 or so. Aside from that it was an okay car.
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Jul 22, 2017 08:14
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I'm going car shopping this weekend and I'm wondering about potential issues for the below cars. Most of the ones I'm looking at are private party so I don't think I'll be able to take them for a pre-purchase inspection at a shop. I'll need to use my limited car knowledge to check for problems. 2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid Second generation Prius 2007-2009 Toyota Camry Hybrid According to US Car Reports the Milan is actually extremely reliable, which weirds me the gently caress out because it's a first generation Fusion underneath everything. I know the Prius is a thread favorite, but I just need to know what to look for in case something's wrong. The other two make sense to be reliable, but I just want to know what to look for. If I find one at a lot that I like I'll probably take it for a pre-purchase inspection. Kyoon Griffey Jr, please don't kill me. If you check my thread you'll see my Subaru is probably totaled and I need to get to shopping if not buying yet. I'd get a cheap stick shift Corolla, but my wife needs to be able to drive this and she's afraid of driving stick even though I've told her it's nearly impossible to stall in motion.
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Dec 16, 2017 16:34
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Thanks. I think I'll go test drive as many of them as I can, at least. The Civic hybrid is the cheapest, but it's one of those things where it's cheap enough that I suspect something might be wrong with it. Can you really not get parts for a '10 Mercury anymore? I could still easily get everything for my '99 Subaru, but that's a different company. The Mercury is actually one of the cheapest aside from that Civic. Looking at the Carfax on one of the Camry Hybrids at the lot, it says it was originally registered as a "commercial vehicle" which sounds like a rental. That was from '09 to '12, though. Is that far enough back in the history that it's not something I should worry about, or is that still a warning sign? It also says the most recent owner drove it an average of 21k miles a year, but that doesn't sound unreasonable since going off of the location of the shop where it was worked on there's a good chance it was used for commuting between two cities.
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Dec 16, 2017 17:23
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Unload My Head posted:Holy gently caress don't buy a Mercury! I mean, that was my thoughts too, but that particular model is apparently really reliable by the research I’ve done. I worded it poorly earlier. I know that Mercury isn’t made anymore, but my model of Subaru (and engine) hadn’t been made since 2002. Is Ford just worse about making old parts?
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Dec 16, 2017 19:44
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I didn’t like the one I drove years ago either, actually. Its zero to 60 time is “eventually.” I will at least use the cheaper loaded Mercury as leverage if I’m trying to negotiate on a Camry, I guess?
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Dec 16, 2017 19:48
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Corolla isn’t on the $3000 incentive list. It’s only got an 8 on the Greenhouse gas ratings. Priuses seem to be $5500-6000 for ones in good condition and decent miles, the Camry I’m looking at in an hour or so is asking 6300, the Mercury I have been told not to get is 5800. A lot of priuses around the 6-7k mark for what seems to be similar cars, though. Is the Altima reliable? There was one on CL for cheap, but my initial research said they had crappy reliability. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 22:26
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I asked because there was a pretty cheap Altima I discounted because of that. The Camry today was just in lovely condition, I’m going to check out a Prius tomorrow.
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Dec 17, 2017 05:25
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Any car with a 9 or 10 Greenhouse Gas score from the EPA. I've been using the spreadsheets found here: https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/download.shtml although obviously I don't expect anyone but me to dig through all that poo poo.
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Dec 17, 2017 15:37
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Oh, sorry. I guess that wasn't clear. I buy the car, fill out a form with proof of purchase, submit to payroll, get $3,000 on the next paycheck. Which means unless I borrow money from one of our parents and pay them back when we get it (I know, privilege.txt) that's more on the loan and higher payments. And they withhold $2k for taxes on top of that, which means I don't have to worry about tax implications. Is there any way to fix up the standard wear scratches (like just from dirt and crap like all cars get) without getting a new paintjob? They show up really obviously on black cars.
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Dec 17, 2017 21:47
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I thought I covered that above, but I'm bad at explaining. $3,000 is net. They give $5,000 gross, but withhold $2,000 as tax. Just like it's a bonus. Thanks for the answer about the scratches. I've always had either white, silver, or green cars. The scratches / swirls on those don't really stand out, but I was looking at a black car and it's really obvious on those. Definitely not through the paint. Not that I'm trying to be super picky when I have time constraints, it's just something to consider.
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Dec 18, 2017 14:54
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Does a second gen Prius not have an emergency brake? The idea of not having a secondary braking system in case of the fluid/electronic braking system failing seems backwards.
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Dec 19, 2017 00:28
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Fair enough. I would probably be in the same position, everything I’ve had except my work van has been the same way, the hand lever.
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Dec 19, 2017 00:54
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There's a 2012 CR-Z with 55k miles for just a bit more than the 08-09 Priuses I had been seeing at 110-150k miles. What's the opinion on those? From googling it seems like they're just kind of mediocre? It's on the other side of Denver from my work, so I would rather not drive all the way across at rush hour unless I think there's a good chance I'll like it.
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Dec 19, 2017 14:47
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Space Gopher posted:If you want a sports car, it's low on power, and not light enough to live up to the original CRX's "low power but even lower weight is crazy fun" philosophy. The CR-Z will be more engaging to drive than a Prius or Insight, but there are much better choices if you want a relatively efficient, lightweight two seater sports car. Thanks. I was drawn to the low mileage, but thinking about it I’ve been happy with my car for the last 8 years that I got with 120k. I’m really inclined towards the Camry, although I need to test the Prius still. The Edmunds TCO only puts them $1k apart aside from depreciation, taxes, and financing, which seem less accurate in my case since I’m buying used. Reliability reports also seem to put the Camry above the Prius, although I have only done some initial searching so I need to do more before I feel comfortable with that as a fact. Frustratingly, Edmunds will only go back to 2011 for TCO, though.
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Dec 19, 2017 17:16
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I know when I asked about the Camry Hybrid back in July and Kyoon Griffey Jr told me I was being stupid he linked a maintenance schedule for the car. Is there a site with that sort of information for a bunch of cars and stuff that commonly needs replacing that isn’t necessarily maintenance? For example, on my Subaru you almost always want to replace the timing belt and water pump at 120k.
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Dec 19, 2017 18:35
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I’m looking at an Autocheck for a car, and it shows two times (a couple years apart) where it was sold twice in about six months. Is that a red flag? It sounds like someone bought it, had a lot of trouble, decided “screw this” and sold it.
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Dec 22, 2017 17:04
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Yeah, that bugs / bugged me. I think I might be reading it wrong, though. It says "Title" and then a number, which I assumed was the title number changing? But that's not how it works, is it? The title goes with the car, it's not like getting a new registration number when you sell it. Here's what I'm seeing, does anyone know what this means? Above it says it's a three owner car, so I have to be wrong about what I initially thought. Could it be refinancing or something more innocuous? I have no idea if the numbers or dates could reveal anything sensitive in any way, so I redacted a lot of them. Probably not, but whatever. If this is a good car, then A) I might have screwed myself out of a few hundred, and B) I may have found the sperglord's best negotiating method. I had to run out shortly after the test drive yesterday so they couldn't apply too much pressure. Then I texted an offer to the salesman last night, and this morning (after what might have been stalling? Not sure if they stall over text) he replied with what I was hoping to talk them down to. I told him I would think about it and that I was going to look at another car and then he followed up with a "we will do whatever possible within reason to earn your business," so maybe I could have gotten them down to what I initially asked? Oh well, I didn't think there would be more than $1k of flex room on a $7k car. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Dec 23, 2017 |
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Dec 23, 2017 19:17
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Thanks. Looking at the whole thing with the information you gave it looks like it was actually only sold twice (not including when it was brand new). Once in ‘12, once in ‘15. So that’s better.
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Dec 23, 2017 21:10
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Yeah, that’s true. I negotiated a price: $5810 for a 2009 Camry Hybrid with all the options and 122,000 miles. No rust, good tread on the tires although I forget what kind they are. I go in Tuesday after the underwriters switch my loan type back to preapproval rather than VIN specific private party. Given that the TMV was like $8,300 I think I did pretty well? Although they had it listed for $7k so maybe TMV was off.
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Dec 24, 2017 00:55
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Stark Fist posted:Thank you. Just ran across an 09 Outback Sport with a 130k, single owner, full maintenance record. Probably going with that. Check for the timing belt, water pump, and head gasket in the maintenance records. Belt and pump need to be done around 120, head gasket was an issue on the 2.5l engines until they finally fixed it around 2010. It got better over the years, but it’s still important to think about. I loved my Outback Sport, anyone in the Subaru thread who had one will tell you the same thing. The difference is mine had the more reliable 2.2l engine, which also had slightly better mileage.
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Jan 9, 2018 02:45
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Help me stop my roommate from making a terrible decision. He takes terrible care of his cars and needs to get something new (used) because his car currently can't reliably/safely get him to a job he's transferring to down the interstate and definitely can't get him back out to see family in Minnesota from CO. The problem: He's looking at Denalis and Escalades because he thinks they're cool The other problem: His credit is crap The other other problem: Again, he takes terrible care of his cars, and Denalis and Escalades are unreliable and expensive to repair because GM "Luxury." I'm trying to convince him to get something cheaper (he's currently looking at $15k) and more reliable, but he comes from an extremely poor background and while he's shaken a lot of it he still has an attachment to some status symbols. On the bright side he's good at saving money for the most part despite that ($500-600 a month before this promotion he's getting). What should I steer  him towards? I'm thinking an older Lexus or Acura since they're still a luxury brand but are more reliable. Preferably one that shares a lot of parts with their Toyota/Honda siblings so that he can get at least some parts cheaper. He wants a SUV for road tripping with his girlfriend and kid back to Minnesota and for the snow. I don't see why an AWD sedan wouldn't do the same thing, but I'm trying to accept my limits on how much I can change his mind.For some reason he has a lot of respect for me, so I think part of what I'm going to try is show him a compound interest chart that shows if he put the amount he's thinking for a car payment in the bank every month he would be a millionaire by the time he retired. But that part is more pure BFC than AI, so I'm here to ask what cars I should be pointing him towards instead. I mean if it was me looking at the same use case I'd probably buy a 3.0 Outback for $5-6k, but it's not me looking at it. So the standard goon berating isn't going to help here. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 03:14
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I'm more concerned about him trying to spend 15k on a car from a BHPH lot at like 20% interest. If he was getting one cheaper I wouldn't be as concerned, but cheaper Escalades at least seem to start at 12k unless they're 200k miles or have mechanical problems so big even craigslist sellers disclose them. Also I didn't know GM made any reliable vehicles around the start of the recession. E: Actually, they use a truck version of the LS, right? So the engine at least wouldn't be too bad. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 04:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:They are literally just super fancy versions of the Tahoe / Suburban platform. The underlying mechanicals are as reliable as any other full size truck. poo poo will break but probably not in a catastrophic or disabling way. Good point, I hadn't thought about them being the trucks with a different body. Seems like the American companies actually care about making their trucks. I'll try to go with him to look at cars if I can. I doubt I could get him to get an Outback or similar because of the image thing, but I'll try to help him as much as I can. I've only gone used car shopping twice in my life (once for my first car at 18, once when I crashed the first one at the end of 2017) so I don't have a ton of experience, but I can at least notice weird noises or vibrations or stuff like that. I'm hoping that showing him that compound interest chart will help break him out of the idea of a car note being something you should always expect to have. My first car was paid for since 2010 or 2011 so I'm not happy about having a payment now and if I don't crash this one I won't have one in the future. Maybe I can also remind him to factor maintenance and insurance into the cost of the car since people tend to just look at the payment rather than the accompanying stuff. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 04:47
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The Focuses with the Powershift transmissions are still hot garbage, right? Aforementioned friend test-drove a '13 and liked it but I found a crack in the transmission housing so we passed on that one, especially after I found articles about the transmissions having tons of trouble. There's an Envoy Denali on the lot so I might look at that one with him today. I'd like to steer him towards the '06 Subaru B9 Tribeca because the H6 engines are solid, but unless it has the entertainment system there's no way that's happening. The entertainment system actually could be good for him with a toddler in the back seat though. As it is, the only way to travel even an hour is to be playing stuff on the phone for him half the way. I pointed him at a '10 Impreza with an aftermarket radio as being similar to the Focus but he wants something "cooler." TBH I'm lucky that it was something so obviously wrong with the focus, I'm not nearly as good with cars as he thinks I am and he was ready to drive off the lot with it that day. Are police surplus Chargers a good buy or are the only good surplus cop cars the Panther-bodies since they're Panther-bodies? I'm trying to convince him to apply for a loan at a credit union or bank since even with bad credit it will probably be better than a BHPH lot, but he's convinced he won't be able to get a loan because of his credit and there being a collection on his account. The last time he applied for a loan he was making barely more than half what he is now though, so I feel like he has a better shot because of that. And it was a year ago, not sure how the age of a collection impacts your approval for a loan. E: Forgot to ask, how do I tell on a Carfax/alternative whether a car was a rental previously? Some of these cars have mileage above 100k on 5 year old cars which makes me think either rental or commuting cars to go 50-80 miles each way daily. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Mar 26, 2019 |
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Mar 26, 2019 19:21
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:ya boy is all over the fuckin map with what he wants to buy, i would get him to narrow it down a bit more Yeah, I thought he wanted a SUV but now he's looking at sedans and stuff. The Focus is kind of more stylish in the exterior and he liked the navigation system and the backup camera. As best as I can tell there's a good chance there's an entertainment system in this B9 Tribeca so that might be an option. He's 20 and I'm trying to temper his youthful bad decisions (got here too late for him not to get someone pregnant ). I'll also tell him that a friend of mine installed an entertainment system in his car, full HD, Android hookup, everything, for $90 so maybe that will influence his decision.Think of what a 20-year-old from the inner city would think is cool, that's what he would think is cool. Because he's a 20-year-old from the inner city. His current car is a CTS, his last car was a Chrysler 300. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Mar 26, 2019 |
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Mar 26, 2019 20:19
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they are both terminally uncool
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The CTS is rusted nearly in half and has bad brakes, constant electrical problems, needs a new suspension, and who knows what else. He treated it like complete poo poo, which combined with rust belt rust mean it’s downright dangerous to drive. He could probably make it decent for half the cost of a car he’s looking at, but the rust damage is irreversible, and the damage he did by not changing the oil for two years would cost another few thousand to fix. My wife’s ‘99 Escort sounds better. I’ll be on his rear end to keep up with whatever he gets as long as I’m living with him. I thought the 300s were irredeemable shitheaps.
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Mar 26, 2019 22:26
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Okay, I figured that at least the ex-cop cars would have had their maintenance done reliably, but maybe that's giving too much credit to the police. The ones I find up for sale seem to be around 100k miles, which is about what he's looking at in used cars anyway. Test drove an Envoy Denali and a Charger, he liked the both but liked the Charger better. I thought the Charger felt cheap as hell inside and don't trust Fiat-Chrysler, but I've got a general anti-American bias in my car tastes so I'm not the best judge maybe. Would the Envoy be more reliable? I'm also wondering if the insurance would be cheaper on one than on a Charger for a 20-year-old man. I don't think he's got any wrecks in his past, but one car did get shot up (I haven't asked whether he was in it at the time) and I'm not sure if there was an insurance claim from that. And the AWD would be nice, although I haven't ever owned a RWD car so I don't really know how significant the improvement is between the two. I found an '06 Envoy Denali for $5600 locally, which seems cheaper than an equivalent Charger. If he starts looking at stuff around $10k I'm probably going to point out how much that extra $4k would be by retirement if he stuck it in an index fund, or how he could put some of that into making sure that the car his girlfriend is going to be getting is nicer and safer for their son. I know I sound like a naggy busybody but he asked me to be his better judgement on this endeavor anyway. Is there a significant difference in reliability between the engines, automatic transmissions, or generations of the Chargers? Is their AWD transmission any good? E: Even more all over the place, what about the Genesis sedans? I know that was Hyundai as they were starting to step up their game, there's one with 105k miles and hail damage asking $6k, which seems like a really good deal and might appeal to him as a luxury sedan like his CTS. I had completely forgotten they even existed but I saw one on CL from a place that also has a Charger and I'm hoping that might avoid the young drag racer insurance tax. E2: gently caress it, answer more of my questions! Is the no salvage titles because of possible mechanical stuff that wasn't caught or because of problems with insurance? I've got no idea what the insurance situation on a salvage title is. Presumably it's nearly impossible to get a loan? There are some cars around here that are salvaged because of the annual hailstorms in Denver, is it the same situation there? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Mar 27, 2019 |
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Mar 27, 2019 00:11
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I found a 2008 TSX with a salvage title from hail for $3k, that's why I was wondering about why no salvage titles. He could probably buy that outright for cash and from riding in a friend's they seem nice. He's willing to pay $10k-11k but being assigned the role of his better judgement I'm trying to get him not to spend so much. He kind of fell in love with an overpriced Charger, so I'm looking for cheaper Chargers. I also found a GS350 for ~7k with hail damage and a 2014 Altima for $9k with hail damage, both clean titles. And a RX400h with no hail damage for $8k, which might be a decent decision. Then again I might be biased because I like my hybrid Camry (although I really need to get around to finishing fixing my '99 Subaru so I can get a salvage title and roll around in a rattletrap again). The 2014 has 57k miles, which seems like a pretty big plus. Although that also means the 60k maintenance is coming up soon, I don't know what that entails on a Nissan. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Mar 27, 2019 |
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Mar 27, 2019 03:26
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