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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




How will you be using the car?: Driving to work, a couple hours/ 200km round per day on twisty coastal roads.
What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, good MPG, low main/repair.

That said, any thoughts on the 2012 Chevrolet Spark?



I've been looking for small fuel-efficient cars, and this one came up as the best price, and while there is no review for the 2012, the 2013 gets good reviews on Intellichoice. I checked one out today and was surprised at how comfortable it was (and was completely sucked in by the "digital monitor inspired by computer games"*.

Good idea or not?

*Car and Driver

Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Aug 30, 2012

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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




What exactly is an "administrative fee"? I read a site that told me that dealers like to throw in document/ customer service fees that are essentially "free money" for them, is it similar?

Whatever it is, my girlfriend paid $400 for it when she got her car last year. This is in Canada, if that helps.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Purchased a 2004 Pontiac Sunfire today, throttle got stuck on the way home and it went right back to the dealership to get looked at tomorrow.

This does not bode well. I was really looking forward to a more reliable car than my 2003 Hyundai Tiburon, which was a money furnace.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Leperflesh posted:

Just to elaborate on what Guinness said: in no way should you expect a early-2000s GM vehicle "more reliable" than a Hyundai. It is the opposite situation. A 2004 Pontiac Sunfire in particular is not a good car and you will never see anyone here recommend it.

I should have elaborated: my Tiburon was breaking down quite regularly, and I was pouring money that I didn't have into it. Example, within a month I lost both my heating block (estimated $1000+ to fix with labor, since they would have to take out my dash just to get to it, plus cut through the AC) and my radiator.

The guy that had it before me ran the thing into the ground, so it had pretty high kms.

The Sunfire is a very common model in this area, and parts are plentiful and cheap (if I go to my regular guy; Chev is repairing the accelerator cable for me no charge this time). It also has comparatively low kilometers (72,000), so it seemed like the better choice.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

The Sunfire is great* if you treat it as a throwaway car and do your own basic maintenance. poo poo breaks? If you can't find the part at a pick-and-pull or on sale at your GM store, flip the thing for 500 bucks or junk it. Major repair? See ya.

*relatively

If you are getting a mid 2000s GM vehicle, get the W body with the L36 3800 V6 (or the L67 ) and the 4T60/4T65 transmission. They're pretty rock solid since they're essentially 1960s technology. Expect the interior to fall to pieces. I'll shut up about the 3800 now so that Throatwarbler doesn't yell at me. The J-body is one of the worst cars made in the 2000s.

Yeah, I'm only looking to get about a year and a half to two years out of it until I get a permanent job (teacher). My father in law had one for years (2000), never really had any major problems with it, and was encouraging me to get one anyway.

Next car: Corolla, especially if they update their current models and get back their lagging reputation.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Ramrod Hotshot posted:

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3231851811.html

Here's an '08 Corolla with 27k miles for less than $10k. Too good to be true, maybe? Should I suspect something?

Just looking at the Blue/Black Book values, which he's undercut by $1,100- $2000, as well as the fact that he is driving without hubcaps, makes me suspicious.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




I need to buy a new car, but I don't make a lot of money. My dad is willing to help me out by signing for me (lol), here is a list of cars that are in my area that I'm considering:



I don't do a ton of driving compared to a lot of people I know, my father-in-law is pushing me to get the Civic, but the dealership is being cagey with the actual price (I haven't spoken to them, but he did, and they kept pushing $109/biweekly instead of overall cost, the $15k is an estimate)

I like the Sonic personally, and it also seems to be the cheapest, I thought I'd come here like I did with my last car and ask for advice

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I think the Sonic is the best bet for you. The LS is the non turbo engine so it will be quite reliable. The cost savings in initial purchase and insurance will more than make up for any additional repairs.

I think I'll check it out on Saturday, as well as looking at the Fords. I'd like to knock some money off their price, any general tips for how to do that?

Edit: I also found one a little further away: Sonic LS, '12, 58k kilo, $8,603 with insurance $9 cheaper a month

Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Mar 3, 2016

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I'd pay the money for the newest and lowest mileage version you can find.

I have no idea what to benchmark for Canada. Internet suggested VMR, which also suggests that the '14 Sonic is in a decent range of reasonableness. You can look for any obvious blemishes or defects and try to get money knocked off, but the price seems pretty fair. The '12 Sonic is a bit high.

Alright, I found this guy, which looks like a pretty good deal to me. I'm not in the area, however my dad is and he took it out for a test drive, said he really liked it, however it doesn't come with air conditioning, which is a Big Deal with my girlfriend.

She and I also worked out payments for it using an app and found them to be higher than anticipated. She believes that going around to dealerships and seeing what they can give me on a 2015 is a better idea- thoughts? My dad really likes it, but my girlfriend hates it, and unfortunately I have to try to find a balance between both.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

If your financial situation is that bad, I suggest a reliable, high mileage compact.

It came out to be, using onlineloancalculator.org, ~$250/mth*, combined with $82/mth insurance, so the total cost would be $15,139.67 after 5 years... which in the neighborhood of the cost of a new Chev Sonic (my dad argues, however, that there are various other charges that go into buying a new car versus used).

I'm looking at lower cost, slightly older, higher mileage vehicles that are showing numbers that I like better.

* - Assuming 7%, which was a bit higher than what the guy thought he could get me

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Yeah I didn't most of that- here's a car I like that appears to be cheaper, what do you think of it?

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Looks fine. The 1.4L Turbo is a good engine but maybe slightly less reliable long term than the 1.6. "Certified" isn't worth poo poo. I had that exact car's twin as a rental and it was fine. See if you can check maintenance records and service intervals and make sure the requisite work has been done.

I know I've been doing a lot of back and forth, but I'm looking at this thing now, which I'm hoping to get over 5 years. What do you think of it? Is 44k+ a lot for a '14?

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




IRQ posted:

Not really, but yikes at a 5 year note on whatever $9k canadian is, like 6.5? Are you sure you can afford a car?

My dad wants me to go 4 years, $250/mth, which combined with my ~$100/mth insurance would put me at $350. My bills add up to be just short of $1000/mth, putting very little on my modest credit card/student debt, and my minimum earnings are about $1450 a month as a substitute teacher

My parents have assured me that they'll help me out whenever I feel I can't make payment, and there was apparently even some discussion about just buying the car for me and paying them back, but I want to build credit and do as much as I can.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




But yeah, I've been worrying non stop for the past few days, despite my girlfriend and parents telling me it's okay

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




That's just me rounding up from the $990/yr, $1M coverage that they quoted me, I guess it's more like $87/mth

Driving History: I've been driving since I was 22, so only 7 years, no accidents aside from when someone drove into me in a parking lot

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Mr. Wiggles posted:

Chevy Sonic: Pretty sure these are poo poo. But some people say they're not poo poo. I had a Cavalier once that was poo poo but it was reliable poo poo. So what's the story here?

I was planning on getting one in a few days... are they poo poo or not poo poo???

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




I've been looking at repair costs on sites- what's the $1200+ repair that pops up in year three and five?

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Also, one of the cars I'm looking at was a previous rental car, is that what the "no rentals" refers to in the title?

Edit: Sorry about my incessant posting, but I have about a day and a half to make a decision on a car- where I'm at now is 1) 2014 Chev Sonic, 61K Kilo, ~$9000, former rental car (girlfriend likes this one), 2) 2014 Chev Cruze, 40K kilos, ~$10,000, I would really need to negotiate a better price on this to go for it, (Dad likes this one) and 3) 2013 Chev Cruze, 60K kilos, ~$9000

My girlfriend wants me to take these cars out for 5 years at ~$210/mth, my Dad thinks I should go 4 years at a higher payment. My bills come to ~1000/mth, the minimum I make in a month (summers, when I don't get paid as a substitute) is ~$1400.

Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Mar 11, 2016

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




I factored $250 gas into my budget per month, during the summer that drops down considerably

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Holy poo poo, that's a lot of money on gas. Back of the envelope if you're budgeting that for gas in Canada on a Spark LS, that's 3500+ miles a month.

Yeah, all the bills were rounded up a bit to allow for some leeway, but the gas bill isn't close to what I spend on gas. I think it's closer to $160-$180, and that's IF I'm getting a lot of days at the furthest school I go to (and they've been getting me in more and more lately).

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

This is more BFC than AI, but what's your end game? Substitute teaching isn't a sustainable career.

1 Get a long term sub job for a bit, hope that turns into more

2 Hope oil comes back, get a general labor job out West for a few years

3 Northern Community teaching for a few years

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




IRQ posted:

Get a $1000 beater or better plans to be honest. Why can't you get a full time teaching gig?

I need something more reliable than a beater, also I live in Canada so teaching jobs are pretty stable, well paying jobs that are hard to get

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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




My Ď14 Chev Cruze is starting to have regular issues and we have moved to a new house that has a long, steep driveway that was difficult to get up this winter, so Iím thinking about selling it and buying an SUV (or at least something with 4 wheel drive).

Is there a go-to Goon favorite Compact SUV? My brief research suggests that the Honda CRV is pretty good, but I know that car review sites tend to focus on features and gloss over the practical stuff...

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