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sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Dik Hz posted:

Its all about how you drive on snow and ice, the tires don't make that big of difference. Snow tires will make someone who doesn't know how to drive on snow and ice over-confident. And someone who knows how to drive and snow and ice doesn't need them.

Do you think the same thing about ABS and Traction Control?

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sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Vomik posted:

If the seller is part of option 1 or 2, then yes it is a good deal to buy a 1-2 year old car, but often enough it is option 3 and a new car is a much better deal. Don't depend on the seller to let you know (or at least truthfully) which of the above is the reason why he's selling. And since option 3 is more common, the price MUST drop, because the risk of lower quality has increased dramatically.

In fact, the reason why quality cars don't drop in price as quickly is because it isn't often that they are pieces of poo poo, so less people sell them at 1-2 years.


That is all totally incorrect, a huge percentage of the ordinary 2-3 year old cars on the market are ex-lease and therefore still under warranty and certified. This applies even more for luxury cars, a CPO off lease BMW is always going to be a more prudent choice than a new one.

Would you buy a new Chrysler shitbox over a lightly used Corolla or Camry?

sanchez fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Oct 21, 2009

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


How does buying a car, paying it off over 3 years, driving it for 2 more and then selling it compare to buying a car, leasing it for 3 years, buying it, driving it for 2 and then selling it.

It seems to me that you're suggesting that it'll come out nearly the same in terms of the total amount a person puts in in payments depending on interest?

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Grumpwagon posted:

(is that a myth? I've always heard manuals have less transmission issues).

It's not a myth, especially in older cars that have probably been maintained poorly.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


moana posted:

Oh heck, this 0 for 60 thing is only until June 1st I guess? That sounds pretty rad, maybe I will do some car shopping this weekend and try out different ones. I have never gone out to a dealership to test drive things before so this will be a new experience!

Don't they just raise the price of the car (or drop it less during negotiation) on those 0% deals, or can you still get it down near invoice?

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Don Lapre posted:

Yes i know, technically the Prius and Camry are both midsize, and the Corolla is compact. But the way the car feels when sitting inside, the Camry will feel much larger, and thats what people shop for. The Corolla and Prius will be similiar in interior room when you are sitting inside.

This entirely correct, but you're never going to convince throatwarbler. Most people buy hybrids for the wank factor, justifying purchasing one using logic is tough, regardless of what the EPA says.

The Prius has a lot of interior space because of the hatch and because the toaster profile gives a ton of headroom, which must be nice for tall people. An Echo with a 6 foot expanding camper top mounted on the roof would be EPA midsize or larger, it's still not a large car.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 17:04 on May 31, 2010

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


That loan is hilarious, do you have enough cash to pay it off completely? It is impressive that you've managed to get upside down on a car you paid $4000 for.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2004/hyundai/sonata/warranty/index.html

Looks like it has a 10/100 powertrain warranty? Assuming you can prove it was maintained.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


devmd01 posted:

$3200 cash for a Jetta in pretty good condition works for me. :)

I'm not sure there is such a thing as an 04 Jetta in good condition, it just has bits that haven't broken yet.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


LorneReams posted:

I have an 01 Jetta with 200K that I've owned since 2004. Like most cars, it's all about the upkeep. If you don't mind paying 200-300 a year in minor repairs, you won't pay the 1000-3000 for the huge poo poo that happens when you ignore everything else.

Hah, I guess you'd say the same thing about a Range Rover from the same period too? Mid 00's VW's are abysmal.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Leperflesh posted:

No, not really. But it does put VWs well above the worst tier of reliability (Hummer territory), which is contrary to opinions like "Mid 00's VW's are abysmal".

I don't want to belabor the point too much. Just noticed a couple or three threads lately where various people (who usually have never owned one and are relying on hearsay) insist that VWs are the worst cars and nobody should ever buy one.

I still think they're abysmal, at least with a Hummer (or Range Rover) you're getting a different kind of vehicle, something that for some people will be worth the reliability trade off. A Jetta is just a cheap 4 door sedan, you may as well buy one that isn't rated 2 stars for feature/interior dependency and have accessories that actually work.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Leperflesh posted:

Obviously people buy them, and do so even after cross-shopping with other sedans. Have you driven one? Sometimes there are features people like about a car that don't just narrow down to horsepower or reliability ratings or whatever. VW sold a lot of Jettas; they do so with differentiating factors and a price point that attracts customers. Gotta be a reason.

I've been in one plenty of times and driven an A4 enough to know what they're like. They drive nicely enough, but there's no way I'd ever own one without a factory warranty. Anecdotes aside, they're still at the bottom of the reliability pool. (FSI cam follower wear anyone)

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


That's a ton of money for an A4, I can't imagine how it could be worth it over a BMW 335i or something with a little more performance.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Another thing to think about, these are fairly unreliable cars and you'll still owe money on it once the warranty is up. I'd strongly recommend not buying anything you can't pay off inside 48 months. Don't get too hung up on the whole special edition thing, there will be another similar deal soon enough.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


It's a good post, but wow those Mazdas are expensive.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


It's hard to argue against buying new at that price level to me given the amount of time you'll keep the car. You get the excellent warranty and the knowledge that the last owner didn't run the car 20k between oil changes.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


The_Fuzzinator posted:

the problem i have with the Fiesta is the history I've seen and read about ford cars while i haven't read anything bad about the Fiesta itself i have no clue if something is waiting and lurking to pop up.

Unless it is very recent history (after 2006) it's not relevant.

You should drive both and the new Hyundai Elantra, they're all good cars.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Leperflesh posted:



$14.6k for a new Focus sounds like a great deal to me, but if you liked the Versa so much better, go for it.

It's a new old focus remember, not the 2012 model. They'll be trying to dump them at any price.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Reggie Died posted:


At what point is it a bad financial decision to stop sinking money into a 16year old vehicle?

When you can buy a new one (or even a new used one) for the price of your repairs each month.

200k miles is a good run.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


You could buy something for $1000 on craigslist, drive it for 6 months and then sell it $1000. You'd need to deal with registration and have someone who is comfortable checking the car over with you though.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Seconding keeping it, if you could buy it out in cash even better.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Thwomp posted:

Twerpling, you are in almost the same exact position I may be in. I had what feels like serious engine misfires from my 2000 Honda Accord SE. It's got 117k miles on it and I'm very nearly done putting any more work into it. Depending on what the dealer says is the problem and how much it'll be to fix it (and how much they'll meet me on the cost), I may be ditching it real soon. I was also looking at the Fit and Elantra.

Why are you taking a 11 year old car to the dealer? Don't do this.

That car should have another 100k left in it at least.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Leperflesh posted:

It is worth noting, I suppose, that a diesel engine can be expected to last roughly twice as long as a gasoline engine, all else being equal.

It is a VW though... Have they become less awful recently?

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


If nothing else a v8 WJ will have quadratrac or quadradrive awd which is certainly more trouble prone than the selectrac 4wd available in the 6cyl models.

I think the engines themselves are ok, not as strong as a 4.0, but few things are.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


What mid-late 00's midsize Chrysler/Dodge sedan wasn't a piece of poo poo? He should get that 01 Camry or something similar (stick with the 4cyl) and drive it forever.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 19:34 on May 20, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Throatwarbler posted:

The Sebring, Stratus and Avenger from that era are all perfectly reliable cars, with double wishbone front and multi-link rear suspension while most competitors used cheaper Macpherson struts. I live in a very heavy Chrysler/Dodge city, and everyone I know who have had Sebrings, often multiple generations, have had excellent reliability.

Why do they get such horrible survey rankings then? Perhaps because you live in a heavy Chrysler/Dodge city your bar for excellent reliability is lower. Even if they were reliable the Sebring is still a pig to drive.

At least mention something like the 3.8 Impala or perhaps even a Fusion, they must be getting cheap now.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


If it was legit it would have sold by now to someone who called to ask where it was and arrived 30 minutes later. You should try and do this in any case, you can get the VIN for a carfax when you're looking at it.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 13:27 on May 27, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


stubblyhead posted:

No, I'm US. The top trim line for the Cruze has a base invoice of $22070, and the options I have on there total to $2192, plus $750 for DFC. I balked at the advertising charge, so he's offered me $25012 minus $1100 in rebates. I think I can talk him down a little more though, and I haven't really even started with other dealerships in the area.

You can buy a well optioned 4cyl Accord or a less optioned v6 Accord or a Sonata with or without turbo for a similar price, perhaps a little more for the Hondas.

Unless you really want an extra 5mpg or whatever I don't see the appeal in a Cruze at all.

The new Jettas are cheap trash. I drove a bunch of new midsize sedans recently, the accord was a clear winner, the only thing the sonata had over it was the transmission.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jul 17, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Throatwarbler posted:

Both the Accord and the Sonata are significantly more expensive when equipped at a similar level as the Cruze,

I would not have posted them if that was the case. The top spec (EX-L and Limited) Accord and Sonata are both right around 25k. If you can do without leather the EX and normal Sonata are less. I had a dealer down to 23k on a Sonata turbo.

Cruze gets 28/36, Honda gets 23/34, n/a Sonata gets 22/35. The city mileage is different for sure, but it's not like moving to a full size SUV or anything.

25k for a Cruze just jumped out at me, that's Golf GTI money. There must be better options or a better dealer somewhere. A Limited 2012 Elantra is just over 20k. The quality might not be quite up there on them (Sonata isn't regardless of what magazines say) but they must be worth a look too.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jul 18, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Those Honda prices are high, but the Cruze price is much lower than what he was looking at, 22k is far more reasonable. Navigation isn't worth it on either car. If he has 25-26k, I still think there are better options. That's a lot of money for 140hp, moonroof or no moonroof.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jul 18, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


You should consider a new Grand Cherokee, 4runners have awful interiors compared to a Range Rover, the GC might be a good middle ground.

Looking at JDPower the RR/LR products still seem to be some of the most unreliable cars in the world.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


See what kind of rate you'll get, I can't imagine it'll be very good, you will probably not qualify for any kind of promo rate.

I'd pay cash and get a basic credit card right now to start taking care of that just in case you want to buy a house one day. Having excellent credit will get you lower rates which amounts to huge savings.

Be prepared for electrical gremlins.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Clearly the best option is to have a spare car on hand at all times.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Throatwarbler posted:

The new Wrangler with the 300hp V6 and 6 speed manual *is* pretty awesome. Plus Wranglers have some of the highest residuals in the industry. If you were going to buy any new car you could do much worse.

That is true, but dropping out of college to buy a new car is an abysmal decision and should never be entertained by anyone.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


DarkestLite posted:

I shouldn't have listed what cars I was looking at. I am not dumb and know the Wrangler and the Compass are completely different cars. I like both but I want to test drive both and see which I like better. Price is a thing I'll look at, too.

I didn't drop out of college. I am taking a year off and I already have some classes planned out for February. I live in a place where public transit is a loving horrible piece of poo poo and I'm tired of not being mobile. I could have stayed in school and still worked for the car, but it probably would have taken me years to just get the down payment, where as in the year I've been on break, I've cleared my debt, made enough for the down payment, and worked on my credit. Also, I would have been miserable. I'm happier with my life currently than I have been in years.

I make $2,000 a month, as I had already said, and I have no bills other than my cell phone. I know about insurance, gas, and I have two uncles who work with cars as their careers so maintenance shouldn't be too bad at all. Also, Jeeps are strong cars and keep their values well, which is partly why I'd want one, other than always having wanted one. I also will likely be moving out in 2 years, but, I still won't have to pay rent.

I didn't really think I'd be getting judgmental responses. I just was hoping for some help with what I've already planned on doing, which was how to go about doing the financing.

But thank you for your opinion on my horrible life choice.

Wanting a car is entirely reasonable. Spend 2 months salary on a used japanese midsize sedan (or an early 90's Wrangler, they are great) and another $500 or so per year to maintain it, which should be easy if your uncles are helpful. New cars are luxury items, like expensive watches or business class air tickets, get one when you can really afford it.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Dec 20, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


FileNotFound posted:

Used cars are gamble unless you know about cars.

He has uncles that know about cars. He even wants a Wrangler, which are incredibly easy to maintain and mechanically bulletproof.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


I AM JAMES FRANCO posted:

I just have a general question.

I'm planning on buying a new car within the next 6 or so months, and there are a lot of resources online about how to negotiate and how to find out the actual cost of the car and etc, but I can't find anything on other fees associated with buying a car.

I would like to to what taxes I would have to pay and when, the costs of getting the tag and the licence plate etc. and anything else.

Look at your states DMV site, it'll have the car sales tax and cost of registration.

There shouldn't be anything else really, the price you negotiate with the dealer needs to be the out the door price (not including the DMV stuff)

sanchez fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Dec 27, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


Don Lapre posted:

Looking at my local craigslist i can find a 2008 honda fit sport with 71k miles for $11,500. MSRP on a new honda fit sport is $17k. Thats over $5000 less.

There is one with 91k miles for under $10k.

71k and 4 years is fairly significant, I'd pay to avoid that. In the low end of the market right now I think it makes sense to buy new, the more expensive the car gets the less true that becomes. (CPO European cars for example)

sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jan 12, 2012

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


erobadapazzi posted:

Last September I paid cash for a new 2012 Kia Forte 5 Door. It's got about 6k miles on it. Now it looks like, come August, I'm going to be moving abroad for at least one year, probably two. What do I do in this situation? The car is currently registered and insured in California. My parents in Tennessee would be willing to keep it and drive it occasionally. Would that be a better option that trying to sell it? I'm worried that, due to the make, it has depreciated so quickly that selling might not be a good idea. Any thoughts?

I'd find out what you'd get for it private party and from carmax, it might end up proving you should keep it, but used cars are holding their value so well right now it's worth checking.

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sanchez
Feb 26, 2003


You can cancel insurance at any time and be paid out the remaining premium, so if your rate does not drop, you can easily move somewhere else.

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