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Dik Hz posted:Its all about how you drive on snow and ice, the tires don't make that big of difference. Snow tires will make someone who doesn't know how to drive on snow and ice over-confident. And someone who knows how to drive and snow and ice doesn't need them. Do you think the same thing about ABS and Traction Control?
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Oct 16, 2009 21:52
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Vomik posted:If the seller is part of option 1 or 2, then yes it is a good deal to buy a 1-2 year old car, but often enough it is option 3 and a new car is a much better deal. Don't depend on the seller to let you know (or at least truthfully) which of the above is the reason why he's selling. And since option 3 is more common, the price MUST drop, because the risk of lower quality has increased dramatically. That is all totally incorrect, a huge percentage of the ordinary 2-3 year old cars on the market are ex-lease and therefore still under warranty and certified. This applies even more for luxury cars, a CPO off lease BMW is always going to be a more prudent choice than a new one. Would you buy a new Chrysler shitbox over a lightly used Corolla or Camry? sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Oct 21, 2009 |
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Oct 21, 2009 14:19
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How does buying a car, paying it off over 3 years, driving it for 2 more and then selling it compare to buying a car, leasing it for 3 years, buying it, driving it for 2 and then selling it. It seems to me that you're suggesting that it'll come out nearly the same in terms of the total amount a person puts in in payments depending on interest?
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Nov 20, 2009 23:14
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Grumpwagon posted:(is that a myth? I've always heard manuals have less transmission issues). It's not a myth, especially in older cars that have probably been maintained poorly.
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Nov 25, 2009 15:08
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moana posted:Oh heck, this 0 for 60 thing is only until June 1st I guess? That sounds pretty rad, maybe I will do some car shopping this weekend and try out different ones. I have never gone out to a dealership to test drive things before so this will be a new experience! Don't they just raise the price of the car (or drop it less during negotiation) on those 0% deals, or can you still get it down near invoice?
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May 29, 2010 12:47
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Don Lapre posted:Yes i know, technically the Prius and Camry are both midsize, and the Corolla is compact. But the way the car feels when sitting inside, the Camry will feel much larger, and thats what people shop for. The Corolla and Prius will be similiar in interior room when you are sitting inside. This entirely correct, but you're never going to convince throatwarbler. Most people buy hybrids for the wank factor, justifying purchasing one using logic is tough, regardless of what the EPA says. The Prius has a lot of interior space because of the hatch and because the toaster profile gives a ton of headroom, which must be nice for tall people. An Echo with a 6 foot expanding camper top mounted on the roof would be EPA midsize or larger, it's still not a large car. sanchez fucked around with this message at 18:04 on May 31, 2010 |
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May 31, 2010 18:01
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That loan is hilarious, do you have enough cash to pay it off completely? It is impressive that you've managed to get upside down on a car you paid $4000 for.
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Jul 8, 2010 15:55
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http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2004/hyundai/sonata/warranty/index.html Looks like it has a 10/100 powertrain warranty? Assuming you can prove it was maintained.
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Jul 30, 2010 11:53
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devmd01 posted:$3200 cash for a Jetta in pretty good condition works for me. I'm not sure there is such a thing as an 04 Jetta in good condition, it just has bits that haven't broken yet.
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Aug 17, 2010 12:12
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LorneReams posted:I have an 01 Jetta with 200K that I've owned since 2004. Like most cars, it's all about the upkeep. If you don't mind paying 200-300 a year in minor repairs, you won't pay the 1000-3000 for the huge poo poo that happens when you ignore everything else. Hah, I guess you'd say the same thing about a Range Rover from the same period too? Mid 00's VW's are abysmal.
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Aug 17, 2010 15:28
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Leperflesh posted:No, not really. But it does put VWs well above the worst tier of reliability (Hummer territory), which is contrary to opinions like "Mid 00's VW's are abysmal". I still think they're abysmal, at least with a Hummer (or Range Rover) you're getting a different kind of vehicle, something that for some people will be worth the reliability trade off. A Jetta is just a cheap 4 door sedan, you may as well buy one that isn't rated 2 stars for feature/interior dependency and have accessories that actually work.
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Aug 19, 2010 13:29
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Leperflesh posted:Obviously people buy them, and do so even after cross-shopping with other sedans. Have you driven one? Sometimes there are features people like about a car that don't just narrow down to horsepower or reliability ratings or whatever. VW sold a lot of Jettas; they do so with differentiating factors and a price point that attracts customers. Gotta be a reason. I've been in one plenty of times and driven an A4 enough to know what they're like. They drive nicely enough, but there's no way I'd ever own one without a factory warranty. Anecdotes aside, they're still at the bottom of the reliability pool. (FSI cam follower wear anyone)
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Aug 20, 2010 20:25
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That's a ton of money for an A4, I can't imagine how it could be worth it over a BMW 335i or something with a little more performance.
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Sep 16, 2010 18:07
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Another thing to think about, these are fairly unreliable cars and you'll still owe money on it once the warranty is up. I'd strongly recommend not buying anything you can't pay off inside 48 months. Don't get too hung up on the whole special edition thing, there will be another similar deal soon enough.
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Sep 17, 2010 14:00
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It's a good post, but wow those Mazdas are expensive.
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Oct 22, 2010 15:12
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It's hard to argue against buying new at that price level to me given the amount of time you'll keep the car. You get the excellent warranty and the knowledge that the last owner didn't run the car 20k between oil changes.
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Oct 22, 2010 15:58
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The_Fuzzinator posted:the problem i have with the Fiesta is the history I've seen and read about ford cars while i haven't read anything bad about the Fiesta itself i have no clue if something is waiting and lurking to pop up. Unless it is very recent history (after 2006) it's not relevant. You should drive both and the new Hyundai Elantra, they're all good cars.
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Feb 16, 2011 17:27
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Leperflesh posted:
It's a new old focus remember, not the 2012 model. They'll be trying to dump them at any price.
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Mar 4, 2011 21:14
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Reggie Died posted:
When you can buy a new one (or even a new used one) for the price of your repairs each month. 200k miles is a good run.
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Mar 12, 2011 15:01
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You could buy something for $1000 on craigslist, drive it for 6 months and then sell it $1000. You'd need to deal with registration and have someone who is comfortable checking the car over with you though.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:19
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Seconding keeping it, if you could buy it out in cash even better.
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Apr 1, 2011 20:36
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Thwomp posted:Twerpling, you are in almost the same exact position I may be in. I had what feels like serious engine misfires from my 2000 Honda Accord SE. It's got 117k miles on it and I'm very nearly done putting any more work into it. Depending on what the dealer says is the problem and how much it'll be to fix it (and how much they'll meet me on the cost), I may be ditching it real soon. I was also looking at the Fit and Elantra. Why are you taking a 11 year old car to the dealer? Don't do this. That car should have another 100k left in it at least.
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Apr 5, 2011 20:05
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Leperflesh posted:It is worth noting, I suppose, that a diesel engine can be expected to last roughly twice as long as a gasoline engine, all else being equal. It is a VW though... Have they become less awful recently?
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Apr 9, 2011 22:13
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If nothing else a v8 WJ will have quadratrac or quadradrive awd which is certainly more trouble prone than the selectrac 4wd available in the 6cyl models. I think the engines themselves are ok, not as strong as a 4.0, but few things are.
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Apr 13, 2011 15:50
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What mid-late 00's midsize Chrysler/Dodge sedan wasn't a piece of poo poo? He should get that 01 Camry or something similar (stick with the 4cyl) and drive it forever. sanchez fucked around with this message at 20:34 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 20:22
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Throatwarbler posted:The Sebring, Stratus and Avenger from that era are all perfectly reliable cars, with double wishbone front and multi-link rear suspension while most competitors used cheaper Macpherson struts. I live in a very heavy Chrysler/Dodge city, and everyone I know who have had Sebrings, often multiple generations, have had excellent reliability. Why do they get such horrible survey rankings then? Perhaps because you live in a heavy Chrysler/Dodge city your bar for excellent reliability is lower. Even if they were reliable the Sebring is still a pig to drive. At least mention something like the 3.8 Impala or perhaps even a Fusion, they must be getting cheap now.
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May 20, 2011 21:32
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If it was legit it would have sold by now to someone who called to ask where it was and arrived 30 minutes later. You should try and do this in any case, you can get the VIN for a carfax when you're looking at it. sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:27 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 14:24
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stubblyhead posted:No, I'm US. The top trim line for the Cruze has a base invoice of $22070, and the options I have on there total to $2192, plus $750 for DFC. I balked at the advertising charge, so he's offered me $25012 minus $1100 in rebates. I think I can talk him down a little more though, and I haven't really even started with other dealerships in the area. You can buy a well optioned 4cyl Accord or a less optioned v6 Accord or a Sonata with or without turbo for a similar price, perhaps a little more for the Hondas. Unless you really want an extra 5mpg or whatever I don't see the appeal in a Cruze at all. The new Jettas are cheap trash. I drove a bunch of new midsize sedans recently, the accord was a clear winner, the only thing the sonata had over it was the transmission. sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jul 17, 2011 14:15
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Throatwarbler posted:Both the Accord and the Sonata are significantly more expensive when equipped at a similar level as the Cruze, I would not have posted them if that was the case. The top spec (EX-L and Limited) Accord and Sonata are both right around 25k. If you can do without leather the EX and normal Sonata are less. I had a dealer down to 23k on a Sonata turbo. Cruze gets 28/36, Honda gets 23/34, n/a Sonata gets 22/35. The city mileage is different for sure, but it's not like moving to a full size SUV or anything. 25k for a Cruze just jumped out at me, that's Golf GTI money. There must be better options or a better dealer somewhere. A Limited 2012 Elantra is just over 20k. The quality might not be quite up there on them (Sonata isn't regardless of what magazines say) but they must be worth a look too. sanchez fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jul 18, 2011 |
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Jul 18, 2011 00:57
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Those Honda prices are high, but the Cruze price is much lower than what he was looking at, 22k is far more reasonable. Navigation isn't worth it on either car. If he has 25-26k, I still think there are better options. That's a lot of money for 140hp, moonroof or no moonroof. sanchez fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jul 18, 2011 |
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Jul 18, 2011 02:20
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You should consider a new Grand Cherokee, 4runners have awful interiors compared to a Range Rover, the GC might be a good middle ground. Looking at JDPower the RR/LR products still seem to be some of the most unreliable cars in the world.
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Aug 29, 2011 14:54
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See what kind of rate you'll get, I can't imagine it'll be very good, you will probably not qualify for any kind of promo rate. I'd pay cash and get a basic credit card right now to start taking care of that just in case you want to buy a house one day. Having excellent credit will get you lower rates which amounts to huge savings. Be prepared for electrical gremlins.
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Aug 29, 2011 21:46
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Clearly the best option is to have a spare car on hand at all times.
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Nov 8, 2011 18:35
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Throatwarbler posted:The new Wrangler with the 300hp V6 and 6 speed manual *is* pretty awesome. Plus Wranglers have some of the highest residuals in the industry. If you were going to buy any new car you could do much worse. That is true, but dropping out of college to buy a new car is an abysmal decision and should never be entertained by anyone.
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Dec 20, 2011 20:08
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DarkestLite posted:I shouldn't have listed what cars I was looking at. I am not dumb and know the Wrangler and the Compass are completely different cars. I like both but I want to test drive both and see which I like better. Price is a thing I'll look at, too. Wanting a car is entirely reasonable. Spend 2 months salary on a used japanese midsize sedan (or an early 90's Wrangler, they are great) and another $500 or so per year to maintain it, which should be easy if your uncles are helpful. New cars are luxury items, like expensive watches or business class air tickets, get one when you can really afford it. sanchez fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Dec 20, 2011 |
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Dec 20, 2011 20:33
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FileNotFound posted:Used cars are gamble unless you know about cars. He has uncles that know about cars. He even wants a Wrangler, which are incredibly easy to maintain and mechanically bulletproof.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:38
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I AM JAMES FRANCO posted:I just have a general question. Look at your states DMV site, it'll have the car sales tax and cost of registration. There shouldn't be anything else really, the price you negotiate with the dealer needs to be the out the door price (not including the DMV stuff) sanchez fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Dec 27, 2011 |
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Dec 27, 2011 19:40
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Don Lapre posted:Looking at my local craigslist i can find a 2008 honda fit sport with 71k miles for $11,500. MSRP on a new honda fit sport is $17k. Thats over $5000 less. 71k and 4 years is fairly significant, I'd pay to avoid that. In the low end of the market right now I think it makes sense to buy new, the more expensive the car gets the less true that becomes. (CPO European cars for example) sanchez fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 15:42
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erobadapazzi posted:Last September I paid cash for a new 2012 Kia Forte 5 Door. It's got about 6k miles on it. Now it looks like, come August, I'm going to be moving abroad for at least one year, probably two. What do I do in this situation? The car is currently registered and insured in California. My parents in Tennessee would be willing to keep it and drive it occasionally. Would that be a better option that trying to sell it? I'm worried that, due to the make, it has depreciated so quickly that selling might not be a good idea. Any thoughts? I'd find out what you'd get for it private party and from carmax, it might end up proving you should keep it, but used cars are holding their value so well right now it's worth checking.
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Mar 13, 2012 21:07
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You can cancel insurance at any time and be paid out the remaining premium, so if your rate does not drop, you can easily move somewhere else.
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Mar 21, 2012 13:17
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