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My wife wants to get rid of her 2008 Mazda6 and get into an SUV/CUV. I guess it's not big enough for her and the kid (I can attest to that...my 6'4" frame does not fit into the front seat when the car seat is behind me) and all the baby gear, plus she wants to get something with AWD since she's considered an essential employee and needs to get to work. I found a 2010 Nissan Murano with 31,000 miles on it for around $17k which seems like a really good deal for something that size with AWD. The problem is I know gently caress all about Nissan. When I go to check this thing out, what in specific should I be checking out? I know the normal things like brakes, tires, fluids at normal levels...but is there anything specific to Nissan (and especially the Murano) that tends to have problems? Also, I notice it has a CVT, how reliable are those things? I've heard they suck to drive but I don't know much about reliability. Given everything checks out, is the Murano a decent buy at that price? Other cars I've been cross shopping are the Ford Edge, Chevy Equinox (and promptly rejected that one...), Dodge Journey (also nixed), and Toyota Venza. I haven't seen anything with this low mileage for that sort of price though which instantly makes me a bit suspect.
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Feb 14, 2014 00:52
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DaveSauce posted:Which of the above cars should I do further research on, and which should I abandon? I'm 6'4" with around the same budget you had and I ended up with a 2011 AWD Taurus for myself a couple years back - I don't regret it at all. I had pretty much the same exact thoughts you did. The new Taurus is NOT the same as Taurus of old. They're built on the same platform as the Volvo S80. They have a good amount of tech to play with as well. I cross shopped it with the Dodge Charger and the Toyota Avalon - I noticed you said no Chrysler though. The new Avalon is pretty god drat nice and if I were doing the same today I'd have to give heavy consideration to that car. The Taurus would probably win again but the Avalon might give it a run for it's money.
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Feb 20, 2014 02:44
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Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 17:16
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PreformedSoup posted:Greetings, goons. That gen Mazda6 was pretty damned great. It's definitely a solid alternative to the Camrys/Accords/Altimas of the world. It's still a mid-size car, but drat it if it isn't one of the best driving mid-sized cars of recent memory. The 4cyl is a tiny bit underpowered, but not enough to make you hate it since it's such a great driving car. The V6 Mazda6 is a great drivers car though. The one consideration to the great handling is that the ride is a bit more firm than others in the class. I personally wouldn't consider it a negative but some might. It's definitely worth looking into. A V6 might be tough to find in that price range but I'd be willing to bet you'd find plenty of 4cyl. Another consideration is the 2010-2012 Ford Fusion. It was platform mates with the Mazda6, has great reliability, and used models are plentiful and cheap. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 00:29
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. I'm looking for advice on what might be worth looking into picking up used.
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It's the chassis tuning. I've heard the Mazda6 referred to as a "poor mans bmw 5 series" on more than one occasion. The suspension set up and chassis are just tuned more towards the sporty end of the spectrum than comfort or appliance level so they're a heck of a lot more fun to drive. Enjoy!
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Jan 27, 2015 01:12
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Big Bad Voodoo Lou posted:I figure I won't get much, especially with the CD changer long-since broken. I'll be thrilled if they offer me $3,000, and I know that's optimistic. But it's a 2003 with 70,000 miles, which ought to count for something. Honestly the market for Cruisers is not very good. $3k is very optimistic, if I were throwing a price out for that car with 70k miles, I'd offer a person $1000, no more than $1500. Maybe you'll get a dealer desperate for your sale but I'd budget for $1200-1500 and consider anything else a bonus. Not ragging on it, just being honest. No one wants PTs anymore, they just sit around and the market reflects that. You can't give them away these days.
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Jan 29, 2015 02:33
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:I'd be getting an automatic since I'm a pleb, but thanks. Looks like I'll probably back off the dart if it's really that unreliable. Truth be told, I fell in love with the styling of the car Just as an FYI - dual clutch transmission is an automatic. Well, not exactly the same, different technology - but it's for all intents and purposes an automatic. It's something you'll see on some newer cars in your research - when you see it, just assume automatic.
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Apr 22, 2015 01:00
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Mind_Taker posted:
Depending on your insurance company, they'll come up with a number one of a few ways. There's book value as mentioned, there's a "comparable sale price" which is nothing more than looking up car values in your area for same year/make/model/mileage, or they might have their own internal database that values the car for them. Use edmunds TMV for retail sale prices in your area to try to get an idea of what they'll value it at. As far as negotiating up, it's definitely able to be done. Make sure first off they're giving you credit for any options your car may have. A lot of times the adjuster will throw in say "Chevy Cobalt LS" but every additional factory option you have is worth extra money. Also, factor in if you've replaced tires recently or any aftermarket equipment you might have. Check out comparable sales in your area as mentioned. Try to find 4-5 within 40 miles of your house on autotrader that are similar. If it's a matter of a few hundred bucks difference between what you have in mind and what they offer, the adjuster sometimes has the authority to just approve it on the spot. Hopefully if the car is totaled you have a fairly painless process. Sometimes the insurance companies will surprise you and throw out a really fair offer right away and no negotiation is necessary.
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Aug 5, 2015 03:36
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Zosologist posted:Dammit, I figured as much. That Fusion will be a whole hell of a lot more fun to drive, if that matters to you. I have a Fusion Titanium and it's actually good to drive compared to other mid-size cars on the market. The only car that beats it is probably the Mazda6 but it's slower. The 2.0l in the Fusion isn't that bad (0-60 in around 6.7-6.9s). If the above doesn't matter, go Prius. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 02:15
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nm posted:The only two family sedans that are remotely fun to drive are the mazda6 and the v6 accord. You either need to go smaller or more expensive for fun. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you want enjoyment, why look at either of those cars versus something that is actually fun to drive? Have you guys actually driven the new Fusion? For a mainstream sedan, it's actually really fun to drive. I drove a poo poo ton of cars before buying my Fusion, and the current gen actually is really fun as long as you get the 2.0l with the stiffer suspension setup. I'm not trying to sell the guy on it, but he should at least test drive the thing to see if he likes it. It is not the same as the Fusion of old. I'm not crazy either, the reviewers all say the same thing. "For a family sedan, the Ford Fusion is surprisingly fun to drive...the suspension setup offers unexpectedly good handling for such a large family sedan." -- Kelley Blue Book "The Fusion drives exactly as Ford advertised. It's fun. It's well-balanced, and it puts a smile of your face. … Grip level is relatively high and body roll is very low compared to its competitors." -Jalopnik "On the road, the Fusion impresses with its athletic demeanor, shrinking around you at speed like a sport sedan." -- AutoTrader "The Ford Fusion holds its position as one of the best-driving mid-size sedans in the segment, with real competition only coming from the less-powerful Mazda 6." - The Car Connection "The Ford Fusion is an undeniably stylish, athletic, fun-to-drive midsize sedan" - cars.com
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Aug 10, 2015 22:01
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There is no v6 Fusion anymore. They replaced it with a 2.0 EB since 2013. It's fine as a v6 replacement for people that want something that accelerates decently enough but it isn't "fast". 0-60 is in the slightly under 7.0sec range.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:03
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Proposed Budget: $20-25k USD New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan, maybe an SUV How will you be using the vehicle?: Commuting, twice a year long road trips, hauling my wife and daughter What aspects are most important to you? acceleration, full size, comfortable, feeling of solid build quality, reliability. I'm pretty good at fixing things myself so as long as there's no major reliability issues I'll be alright. Sportiness and handling don't matter to me I'm going to be getting rid of my Fusion Ti pretty soon. Looking to get something bigger. I'm 6'5'', 280 pounds so fitting a tall guy is a must. 4 doors is strongly preferable. A usable back seat and a good size trunk are a must. I also need a car to feel solid. I can't stand cheap feeling cars. I'm thinking Ford Taurus, Chrysler 300, Toyota Avalon, and Chevy Impala are where it's at for starting. The Hemi twins (300/charger) are tempting but seem slightly out of my price range. Anything I'm forgetting or should add to that list? Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Sep 10, 2015 |
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Sep 10, 2015 03:00
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skipdogg posted:You can take the Taurus off your list (probably). I think they have less usable interior space than a current gen Fusion. The trunk is huge though. Why are you getting rid of the Fusion Ti? Good question. It's a bit anecdotal, but my car has been a bit of a lemon so I want to rid myself of it. The car itself is good. Drives well, decently quick. But in 10 months of ownership (less than 12k miles) I've had to bring it to the shop 11 times. Gas tank issues, sunroof wouldn't shut, blind spot monitoring failed, steering column knocked etc. The GM of the dealership agreed with me and said it has been a pretty big headache, so he offered me a really fair trade if I want to buy something else. I'm considering taking him up on it.
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Sep 10, 2015 12:16
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FortifiedTumor posted:I've been pulled over six times in my Ford Focus ST since buying it a little under 2 years ago. I usually know when I'm going to get pulled over because I've learned the various tricks policemen use to induce people to commit a traffic violation. Even if I don't commit a violation, I get pulled over for a fabricated violation after a few miles. I don't get pulled over when driving my truck, pretty much ever (pulled over once when speeding six years ago) even though I use it much more. I never get a ticket, it's always just a warning and inquiries about what I'm doing and possibly a request to search my car. Surprisingly, a Taurus SHO might work for you. It won't have a manual, but it can get up and go and has an absolutely massive trunk. Get one in black, navy, or silver and not only will you not ever get pulled over, but everyone will get out of your way as well. I have a Taurus Limited and I tend to get the left lane all to myself most of the time. They're cheap as gently caress to maintain as well.
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Oct 11, 2015 22:49
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H110Hawk posted:Proposed Budget: Flexible, $15-30k All reliability issues aside (and there are certainly reliability issues - I just had to lemon law my Fusion, car from hell for sure) headroom in them sucks. I'm 6'4" myself and I always felt a bit cramped in the Fusion when it came to headroom. I know it's not AI recommended, but take a look at Ford Taurus in your area. They're not incredibly modern but they're fairly reliable, have a massive trunk, they're cheap as hell to fix, and you can get used ones for a song. Seriously, around here you can get a near loaded Limited model with under 20k miles for the $20-23k range. They depreciate loving quick over the first couple years so they're a fantastic bargain for used car shoppers. No way in hell are they worth $37k, but they're a steal at $20 and some change.
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Oct 17, 2015 03:20
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IRQ posted:I'm 5'10" and I'm completely baffled by you tall jerks' aversion to sunroofs, do they make the car shorter or something? Also please stop standing in front at concerts, it's rude. They cut room inside. Some can cut 2-3" from interior headroom. That sunroof has to have a place to go when it lowers down and folds in. Open the sliding door on a sunroof and look at the bottom of the glass - that's where a non-sunroof model's roofline would be.
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Oct 17, 2015 04:19
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FWIW - a friend of mine just bought a new Ford Focus for about $1500 under what true car considered to be an "exceptional price" by emailing around. He said it was extraordinarily easy - just email a bunch of dealers asking for their best price. One of them bit for that price and he went in and bought - no haggling necessary.
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Oct 19, 2015 02:09
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What year Mazda3? There's a big difference between the "old" pre-2012 non-skyactiv 2.0 and the newer post 2012 skyactiv 2.0. If it's the skyactiv then there's actually not a huge difference to the 2.5. If you're looking at older than 2012 then yeah, look for the 2.5.
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Oct 20, 2015 03:05
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Slo-Tek posted:
Could be more profitable. They might have paid a song for the $20k vehicle, while the $24k vehicle they might have paid trade in close to what they're selling it for and was hoping you'd bite at the $20k without arguing much on the price since it's cheaper. Get an independent inspection too. I know it's a pain in the rear end, but you're spending $24k on a car. $80 and an afternoon is a whole lot better than getting stuck with a $24k lemon. The remainder of your warranty is powertrain only, it wouldn't cover things like a faulty AC unit. Lastly, an extended warranty isn't always a horrible purchase, as long as you can get it for a good price AND it's though Honda and not some third party. Like everything else at a car dealership, the warranty price is negotiable. Also, look online. A lot of dealerships sell OEM extended warranties over the internet so if you were interested in buying one you can save a bunch of money that way. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 21:24
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I'll say this about ABS - I never want a motorcycle without it ever again.
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Oct 31, 2015 02:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I am an AI poster - your average consumer should buy the poo poo pre wired from the factory. That is the LEAST hard to do. Why not bring it to a professional installer? If someone wants heated seats added on it can be done safely and it's not that expensive. Usually around $500 or so. If someone thinks it's worth it at that price, it's their money. If heated seats are on an option tier that someone doesn't want all of the rest of the poo poo in that package, it's not a terrible way to go.
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Nov 8, 2015 14:40
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Leviathan Song posted:I'm looking at some carfax reports and I see a Mazda 3 with "corporate owner" listed. Is that the warning sign that I think it is? It seems like every car I look at turns up signs of amateur racer or rental as a past owner. It means it was a corporate car. So some mobile salesman owned it, it was a company car for a director, it was a car for an insurance company that did on site visits, it was owned by a home developer used by employees to visit sites...something along those lines. The only concern with these is some companies skimp on maintenance while others are really good. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 03:40
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SUBFRIES posted:Got pre-approved for a used loan from my credit union for $20k at 2.49%, with good credit, but we'll probably finance under my wife, who has excellent credit. 2.49% is pretty much a prime used rate right now. I think the absolute lowest you can find is 1.99%, but most banks have between 2.49-2.99% as their prime used rate. You might not do much better even with her credit.
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Dec 1, 2015 03:38
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When you have little hell-spawn in your life and need to move them and all their poo poo, $5-10,000 to make your life easier in any way is money well spend and worth it. Buy the biggest car you're comfortable affording and driving daily. When my first daughter was born my wife had a Mazda6. After sitting cramped as hell in the front seat with it pushed up I couldn't trade that thing in fast enough. I now have a Taurus and my wife a Murano and I'm feeling pretty good with that combo.
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Dec 10, 2015 00:38
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Jedi425 posted:Thanks for the advice, everyone. We managed to get out and test drive some things today. The CR-V so far is the stand-out favorite, with the RAV-4 and Prius V coming in 2nd and 3rd. My wife hated driving the Prius; unlike me, she actually is a car enthusiast and hated the way the Prius handled, which I can understand. I just don't care as much. We also looked at the iM and the Civic hatch, but they were indeed too small to really fit our reasons for moving to a bigger car. The HR-V was a similar sort of deal; once I got my wife to look at it, she agreed that there was no drat point to it, just get a CR-V. Hate to throw another test drive your way, but if your wife enjoys driving don't cross the Ford Escape with the 2.0 ecoboost off your list. That engine is really potent and it is probably the best handling compact CUV behind the Mazda CX-5.
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Jan 29, 2017 15:02
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AriTheDog posted:Used Fords with all the safety features seemed plentiful and cheap after depreciation. If price is important, they're worth a look. Also, make sure you're comparing apples to apples with all the advanced safety stuff. Each manufacturer's system is somewhat different. This is what I was going to suggest next if you like the Escape. You can get a 1-2 model year old Escape Titanium with a CPO and 20k miles or so for $20-22k. They're a fantastic bargain for what they are. Ford has a pretty strict cpo process and a pretty good CPO warranty. Better than the new factory warranty actually. If you do look at Ford again though only consider the 2.0EB. It's easily the best choice in the Escape.
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Jan 31, 2017 00:25
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The only thing keeping me from Mazda is their engine choices. Where is my turbo charged MazdaSpeeds Mazda? If they made an upgraded engine for the Mazda6 or CX-5 they'd sway me for sure. Everything else they do (driving dynamics, quality interiors, build qualities, ergonomics) are great.
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Feb 1, 2017 23:52
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prom candy posted:How do you decide between a midsize or compact sedan? I'm currently driving a 2002 cr-v but I want to downsize. I drive myself plus two other dudes to hockey fairly frequently but my wife manages that feat in her Civic so I think a CR-V is overkill. Currently looking at a 2015 Sonata or a ~2014 era mazda3 sedan. I want something that feels high-end and handles better than a 2002 CR-V but without the reliability issues of buying an older entry level luxury car, and I can't decide if I want a midsize or not. I have about $20k CAD to play with but would happily go lower and grudgingly go higher. Driving them, basically. Do you feel comfortable in a compact? Are you tall/large? Do you have a need for a bigger backseat/trunk? That's how you make your choice. If you feel uncomfortable in a compact then go larger. Do you feel uncomfortable in your wife's Civic to the point you say "hey, I really wish I had more room in this thing"?
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Feb 10, 2017 04:16
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Deteriorata posted:And the odds of that happening are quite small. Beyond that, your actual loss will only be a few grand, at most. It would suck but it isn't catastrophic. If your finances are so tight that that is an unacceptable risk, you're buying more car than you can afford in the first place. Plus you can always buy gap insurance if that's a concern. Just don't buy it from the dealership at their market up prices. Check with your insurance company, you can usually get it for at least half, most of the time 20-30%, of what you would at the dealer.
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Feb 12, 2017 05:35
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Real backup camera chat - for someone who tows pretty often backup cameras make lining up with a hitch a piece of cake. No more getting out of the vehicle to see how close you are and making adjustments. If for nothing else, all vehicles capable of towing should have a camera for that purpose.
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Feb 14, 2017 00:42
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Don't forget general German weirdness if you decide to do maintenance and repairs yourself (specifically, gently caress torx). Also, just google Audi service position. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 23:00
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Guinness posted:Torx is awesome, it's nearly impossible to strip unlike loving garbage Philips heads. And a complete set of Torx bits is like $15. Sure, but not when they're in terrible spots with no clearance or on parts where they have no business being.
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Feb 15, 2017 23:07
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Thermopyle posted:Anyone have any opinions on Ford Edge vs Mazda CX-5? I like the CX-5 a lot, but I think the wife prefers an Edge. We haven't had time to go drive one ourselves yet. In terms of size, CX-5 is more on par with the Escape than the Edge. The Edge is a larger vehicle with more usable space and offers a V6 and a higher tow rating. The Mazda has less room but is a lot more fun to drive (it'll be slower though). Comes down to preference. Would you rather have more space or a more entertaining drive?
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Feb 16, 2017 00:39
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martinlutherbling posted:In terms of what? I'm definitely open to hearing options and suggestions. I'd like something fun to drive, reliable, mt, awd, 2010 or newer, and $15k This combo of requirements basically does not exist. Below is a list of AWD/manual you can choose from, not including your price range as some of these will be higher: Acura TL Audi A4, A5, S4, R8 BMW F30: 335i only E90 (most models) F80 Jeep Compass, Patriot Mini Countryman ALL4 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo Porsche Macan Cayenne (before 2014) Subaru Impreza/XV/WRX/STi Forester Legacy/Outback (before 2014) Suzuki SX4 Toyota FJ Cruiser Volkswagon Golf R
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Feb 16, 2017 15:26
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martinlutherbling posted:Fair enough. For the sake of argument, let's say AWD isn't a necessity. What are my options then? How about if I bump my budget to $18k or so? Focus ST can be found with low miles around that price range. Fun to drive, fairly quick, handles extremely well, and comes with a MT. It's also a hatch and is pretty versatile. Plus the 2.0 EB is a great engine.
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Feb 17, 2017 00:17
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zzyzx posted:the Corolla is still a nice little toaster with wheels. It's really not these days - it's sort of coasting on past reputation. It was barely above last place in Motor Trends recent compact car comparison and is 11th on Car and Drivers list. Other makes have easily surpassed it in terms of driving excitement, technology, and overall refinement. The Civic or the Mazda 3 are much better buys. The Mazda is actually a pretty reliable car that should give you quite a few trouble free years. As far as others to consider the Kia Forte and Hyundai Elantra are actually worth looking at, as is the Ford Focus. The Focus doesn't have as much reliability respect as the Civic, but it'll be a much more enjoyable car to own than a Corolla. Test drives are free - use them. 
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Feb 27, 2017 02:30
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Deteriorata posted:Cruze seems to be mid-pack These two statements are incorrect if you go by consumer reports surveys (which while their subjective reviews are poo poo, their reliability ratings are pretty well done surveys). The Cruze is 3rd while the Corolla isn't even on the top 10. The Corolla is the epitome of getting by on past reputation. It's old, out of date, and objectively not as good as other modern cars, even though it was just redesigned. Hell, they're still using drum brakes and only just switched from a 4 speed automatic a few years ago. They also have the worst brakes of any compact. Why they still insist on using that 130hp 1.8l when all of the other compacts are much more refined and powerful...it's basically the only compact besides the Sentra that still has a 10+ sec 0-60. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 22:51
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If it's an actual Honda CPO then Honda requires the inspection to be done and a checklist to be submitted to them - including a list of everything they had to r/r to bring it up to their CPO standards. Does this mean that dealerships can't still be shady? Of course not. But if the manufacturer catches wind that they're CPOing cars by falsifying the CPO inspection then they could get hosed pretty hard by the manufacturer including losing their ability to CPO cars or being sued for committing fraud.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:18
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