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This may or may not be retarded, but here goes: I've got two cars - 2003 Mazda Protege and a 1988 BMW 735i. The BMW is garaged and uninsured, we bought it because we needed a second car and then my wife and I started working a few blocks from one another and don't anymore. The Mazda has 130k miles on it and is requiring large amounts of maintenance. Engine blew up at 80k, replaced with used engine with 50k, then the random replacement of parts began. In the 2009 and 1Q10 I've spend about $2000 in random repairs and I'm hearing the signs of another wheel bearing needing to be replaced $300. I also know that at this mileage other maintenance items are coming up that could run up the bills (belts, etc). Backstory done, here's what I want and my reasoning: I want a Jeep Wrangler. My wife and I want to get rid of both cars and get some type of open top vehicle. She wants a Mini or a Miata, I want a Jeep. She's okay with me getting my way, surprisingly. I see two options - go the standard route and get a jeep in our price range (finance less than $10k) from a dealer or private seller with a regular loan from a bank. These jeeps tend to be about the 2000-2003 era with 80k miles. I also have a relative that is a fantastic mechanic. He keeps the fleet of family vehicles in great shape, and has regularly bought salvage vehicles from the junkyard and rebuilt them. He has located a 2005 Willys Special Edition Jeep with 18k miles for $8000. He estimates $2000 for repair. The second choice seems to yield a much better value, but I'm worried that I'll have trouble getting a loan for a salvage title vehicle, as well as insurance. If I go to the dealer, will they work with me on trading in both of my cars? I've sucked at selling cars in the past, to the extent that I've donated 1 vehicle just because selling was a PITA.
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Mar 30, 2010 13:28
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 03:04 |
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Harry posted:I'd be careful with a Jeep. Mine crapped out on me last year and was pretty much a constant headache throughout it's whole life (was a 98). And $2000 worth of repairs on a Jeep with only 18k miles? What are they? It looks like a tree fell on it, has damage to the drivers side and the hard-top. Supposedly no frame damage. I trust the mechanic quite a lot, so if he can vouch for it being sound, I'm good.
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Mar 30, 2010 15:50
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Don Lapre posted:Its not the same mechanic that took care of your 80k mile blown engine is it? No, that was lack of oil changes.
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Mar 30, 2010 16:19
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Arzakon posted:That Mazda with an engine with 100K on it should last much longer. $2000 in repairs over 15 months is $125/mo which is lower than your car payment will be. Good advice. This may not be important, but the bearings on the ES are $280. I had to go to autopartswarehouse.com and use a coupon to get them at that price. The ones for all the other models are $80. But otherwise, thanks for breaking it down. I wasn't breaking the cost down monthly, which makes it much easier to see what's going on. I'm still tempted by the salvage deal, since I've got someone who will happily wrench it for cheap. Any ideas on the availability of loans for that?
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Mar 30, 2010 16:34
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Arzakon posted:https://www.rockauto.com has front wheel bearings for $23-40 and rear hubs (depending on what type of rear brakes/ABS you have) you $50-97. Even on the site you listed I see them for $20-40. I am not sure what you are looking at for $280 I can't see anything wheel/rotor/hub related for that much. I just looked at my invoice, they were actually $180 after coupon. I do know that compared to the part ordered initially, they were physically larger. The ES was a weird model, like a hybrid between the Protege and the Protege5. As a result, I've had several minor parts that were oddly expensive. I'll keep that site in mind, because who knows, maybe that part just had a temporary price blip or something.
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Mar 30, 2010 17:16
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My wife and I are trying to decide between a Mazda 2, Mazda 3 sedan or a Fiesta. Right now the 2012 Mazdas have some pretty good incentives for November, and it looks like I could realistically get a 2012 2 Touring for about $15k before trade or down payment or a 3 Touring for about $17k. No pricing on the Fiesta yet, but the dealership near my house insisted that they could be competitive with the Mazda 2. When I was comparing specs, it looks like the fuel economy on the 3 Touring can get upwards of 40 mpg highway (owner forum chat) which I think beats both the Mazda 2 or the Fiesta. All of the cars are comfortable for my wife and I, and we can fit a car seat in any of them, so we're good there. I'm a bit nervous about the cargo space in the hatchback 2 and Fiesta, but I think we'll be okay. I guess my questions on this are: Is there any killer feature on the Fiesta that makes it stand out over these other cars? The only thing I thought was cool was push-button start, but that's only an option on the higher end model anyway. Is the fuel economy difference between the 2 (34 hwy) and the 3 (40+ hwy reported) compelling enough to make it worth an extra $2k? Are there any other questions I should be asking?
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Nov 8, 2012 15:01
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 03:04 |
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Phone posted:If you are getting an automatic transmission, go with the Mazda3. The 1.5L in the 2 and the 1.6L in the Fiesta will feel too great with an automatic. Do you mean won't feel too great? I've driven the Mazda2 auto, but not the Mazda3. For me, the 2 was sufficient, but it was obviously a step down from my 2003 Protege ES. I'm also taking a look at some of the cheaper Hyundai models this weekend and then I'll start hammering away at prices. I looked at the Sonic with my wife, but there was something about it she just didn't like. I thought it was pretty cool, myself. She also vetoed the Kia Rio, since she can't see over the dash on the passenger side and the seat's non-adjustable.
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Nov 9, 2012 13:50
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